Tony D

I'd go with rope in ONE cylinder... Putting it in TWO is asking for a bent valve. Granted while there may be two cylinders at TDC at any given time, one is 'both valves closed' and the other....well... Let's just stick to sticking something in ONE cylinder to lock the engine. Or use an impact wrench! Even the Cygnus Impact works well enough! LOL **************************************************************************************** Oh, there is another alternative involving the starter, but I'd suggest steering clear of that method...it goes the wrong way!

You are correct Tim, the stockers are around 19-21# if I recall. 170 to 270CC/Min something like that (N/A and Turbo). N/A cars driven by a standalone seem to like Turbo Z injectors without much adoo... V8 injectors are far smaller than sixes-hence the 14# number. The SDS ECU should have enough resolution in pulsewidth to get a decent idle at 550's. Megasquirt doesn't have a problem with the Supra Injectors, and my HKS ITB setup ran fine with Supra Injectors (440CC/Min) being driven by a fuel-only SDS unit. I hope there is a big cam in that thing. I got the HKS ITB setup and the SDS from someone who installed it on their stroker motor, and ended up terminally getting around 17HP more (at 6500rpms) than he did with his Clifford Research Manifold and Holley Four Barrel. His loss, my gain. Though I did pay a $1600 premium for his efforts over the cost he sniped the HKS units off E-Bay from me (but I got the fuel rail, injectors, and SDS unit...LOL). At any rate, you should be able to run the 550's with the SDS. And I agree, the 14# are smaller than the stock N/A units. Come to think of it, they are smaller than the L20E units! They were 17# if I'm not mistaken.

My brother and his friend thought they would be 'funny' in the waning-light hours of a hot U.P. summer afternoon after a day of fishing, and as they passed a bee's nest they beat the hell out of it and shook the limb it was on to really rile up those bees. They took off, leaving older brother carrying the poles up the trail to deal with 'angry bees'... But older brother is WISE and keeps his eyes open and does not walk in the woods with his head down...and saw little brother in the act. So I watched the bees make their telltale spiral as they left the hive... but it was getting dark. I mean, if it would have been later and the sun a bit lower, there would have been NO WAY for me to see the bees swarming. So I bide my time. The bees go back inside their little paper house. They don't like to be out after dark, and older brother knows this. In the meantime I strip a piece of birchbark. Not peeling it deeply, just pulling off a little loose strip curled along the trunk. From this, I fashion a tapered plug. I then walk up to aforementioned bees nest, and stick said constructed plug into the hole (door) of the bees house (hive). Bees do not like someone blocking their door. And I can hear the bees saying LET US OUT! WE WANT YOUR FLESH!!! I break off the branch, and take the poles, as well as the hive up the trail with me. Shaking it and making the bees buzz so harshly I can actually feel the branch the hive is on vibrate and resonate. These bees are pi$$ed! As I break the treeline my brother and his jovial little friend see me and jump inside the car, laughing. They lock the doors, manually, click click! But the rear window is kinda down 1", and by now the hive is directly behind me. "Hey Nick, let me in, dude!" What took you so long? Did you have some trouble with bees or something Tony? (snicker snicker) "Bees? What bees?" (Brother's friend stupidly opens door) At this point, I kind of gruffly rasp: "You mean THESE BEES?!?!?!" While at the same time heaving the hive (about the size of a basketball, slightly larger) onto the dashboard/windshield juncture where it promptly BURSTS open spilling bees ALL OVER the interior of the car. Now, the rest of this is like slow motion. I slam the passenger's door shut and hold it closed. Brother's friend says "What is tha...." Brother goes "What is thaaa..." Then come the screams. Brother's friend tries to open the door, but I'm there, with 340# of angry payback rage holding it shut. They are in a panic. My brother is momentarily at a loss, and is getting stung BIGTIME. I count to 10 and then RUN LIKE A PIG (hey, let's not lie here....) to a 'safe distance' as they both play "Tommy Boy" and roll out of the car clutching at themselves, and screaming. The bees are exacting their revenge for the two distrubances they had that evening. As they come up to me STUNG like you wouldn't believe, before they can even comment, I say, calmly: "Shaking that limb wasn't funny, guys. Throwing the hive into a car with two unsuspecting idiots...thats funny! Word to you both: don't screw with me, if you think you know practical jokes, you don't know how far I will go to extract revenge!" My brother sheepishly says "Dude, he's right. I shoulda known better, he always gets me back!" Er...waitaminit, sorry, I didn't get stung. Darn, maybe you guys can ask my brother what it felt like. I think he was stung something like 48 times before he got 'free' from the 'bee zone'. Me, whenever I hear of stings, I think of how perfect that little payback/turnaround went. Next time I'm up there, fishing again with lil bro, the same friend and a few other guys one of them starts making noises about doing something 'funny' to 'Nicks fat brother' and the kid that was with him during the Bee incident says "Dude, don't even try! You think you got him, and the next thing you know you're trapped in a car full of bees with no way to get out wondering why you ever thought you would get away with it. The guy's an evil genius when it comes to that kind of crap. He's like the devil. Don't mess with him...." Some time later, some guy walks up to me out of the blue in the Kingsford/Iron Mountain Wal Mart and says "You're Nick's older brother, aren't you? The guy who throws beehives?" ROMFALOL Nice to be remembered!

Curious they move the ports up to near the valve cover flange...and have coolant exiting to a manifold under each intake port for even flow across the head. Methinks those GMI guys were poaching some ideas of TimZ's L-Engine cooling thread here at Hybrid Z! LOL I'm sure Smokey will be happy they finally increased the deck height of the SBC!

This is one of those things you mark down in your head after the first time it happens to you (for me it was 1979 on a 1969 Corvair Monza...) PUNCH A REFERENCE MARK ON THE FACE OF THE PULLEY BETWEEN THE CRANK PORTION AND THE DAMPNER PORTION. This becomes a simple matter of checking with a mirror and your timing light every time you do a tune up (if you mark concurrently with your given timing advance mark...) I know when I sent my Monza's pulley off to Dale Engineering (er...now I hear they do Datsun Pulleys too! Imagine that, crossbreeding! LOL) when I got it back I filed that slot to MAKE SURE I knew if it slipped again! Too late for you now if it's slipped, but going forward, if you grab a JY pulley MARK IT before installation. And yes, a chirp on startup can be the harmonic slipping. Chances are if it IS slipping, filing the mark will show you if it's bad pretty shortly. If you loosen your accessory drive belts, and firmly grab the pully with both hands, sometimes you can feel it slipping/moving. Some times the only thing keeping it from spinning freely is the tension from the alternator belt---I know that's what it was on my 81ZXT engine! So that's probably the most effective method given your current circumstances: Loosen or remove the belts and crank on the pulley with your hands and see if it's slipping. It should be pretty obvious. And if it's 'moving' but not 'spinning' you know the elastomeric is shot to the point of failure---you shouldn't be able to move it at all with your hands. If you can't move it...you're safe: PUNCH MARK IT and then you won't have to pull your belts again to check! LOL If it's slipping, it's not good for the crank---it does perform a torsional unloading of the crank snout---without it working there are torsional stresses on the crank that aren't good. Good Luck.

I guess I'm missing what someone is defining as a "pillar"... This would be a 'B' pillar position, and like I said, neither a coupe or 2+2 has a "B" pillar, just some window framing giving that appearance. Same as, say, a 65-69 Corvair. Looks like there's a thin B-Pillar there, but it's really just a trim garnish attached to the rear 1/4 window. As opposed to, say, a Four-Door 510. Or an S130. An S130 has a B-Pillar. The S30 in both coupe and 2+2 form is open from the back 'C' Pillar, to the 'A' pillar, the only thing that goes where the B-Pillar would normally be is trim garnishes, and the door's glass framing.

Drinking, in London, and not even a phone call. All the times I get drunk Frank at the Pub in Amsterdam to hear how great he's doing at poker...and when he goes to a REAL pub in LONDON, we both get the dork-phone treatment! It's not George, is it. That would make it doubly-bad! I may have to take it out on the 'portable sheep'....muahahahaha

It's a beaten dead horse. That there was any response at all was kinda suprising. The 'advantage' sequential has over batch fired goes to two times: Idle Emissions, and Ultimate Competition Power. OEM's use it for idle emissions reductions as injecting precise amounts of fuel with a proper ECU feedback can actually trim fuel to each individual's combustion characteristics. But processor speeds on commercial stuff (OEM) are not that great yet, so most will switch to batch fire once above a given threshold. Now, for the same reasons at idle it's efficient, at Top Power it has an advantage due to being able to alter phasing between injection and valve opening. Meaning if you can calculate the time it takes the injected fuel to travel down the runner to the back of the valve, you can also time it to fuel only enough to fully charge the cylinder. You return a fuel economy dividend by injecting fuel that ALL goes into the cylinder, and doesn't reside pooling at the back of the valve. F1 kinda stuff. Frankly, for 99.999999999% of the people driving on the street, Batch Fire works well enough that there's no reason to consider the complexity of Sequential. Under some conditions, Sequential will offer advantages, but they are extreme cases. And usually it can come down to phasing the injection event in a variable fashion that gives the drivability and emissions/economy dividend in those cases as well. The aforementioned comment about Camshaft sensor is dead on. To do it, you need to know when #1 is TDC on compression stroke---from that point it's all math.

There is a manufacturer of beer that sources it's CO2 from a landfill, and each employee is required to sign a non-disclosure agreement before they hire on...doubtful you will find records of many things. It doesn't mean it's not happening. And yes, I have a signed non-disclosure regarding that. But it's not hard to figure out which brewery was doing it if you ever get a copy of my C.V. and then put 2 & 2 together... I can't remember if it was here, or at another website that an employee that worked in a refinery commented about this confriming what I was saying. 4% water is not an issue when you cut the bead to 40% anyway. Transport of Alcohol when 'denatured' with benzine like you mention is not controlled. But ask the guys at the loading docks about the tanker trucks that go out with the tax seals on the hoses' end caps and service/fill connections---that is alcohol being transported under BATF Approval, and if it's industrial, denaturing it won't require a seal. This is just stuff I work around, and I tend to ask a lot of stupid questions because I'm curious. Lots of times, people tell me a lot of stuff under the assumption that I'm 'covered' by the same signups and covenants they are... Nothing special, it's just I'm around it from time to time because of my job...and the stuff gets 'filed away' in my bin of useless trivia and etc...

Ya know, he didn't call me at all this weekend. I don't know what's up. Hell, for once it's a 3 hour time difference between us, and he doesn't call. Make it a 9 hour time difference, and I'll be getting calls at 2AM and 5AM regularly... LOL

I really like the look of that setup! Niiiice. Couple of recessed 5 3/4" Cessna Landing Lights in there, with a flush plexiglass covering would add 'flash to pass intimidation' to the list of additional advantages with your mod! LOL

Curiously Ford did the same thing for Fox Bodies... We called them "Donkey Ball Retrofits" It was two round, lead balls on the end of a length of cable. You put the offending car on the rack, slipped the 'donkey balls' over the driveshaft about midway, and then slid 'em down to the nose of the differential where there was a notch that the cable would catch in... Same thing: NVH (Noise Vibration Harshness) Customer Complaints. Changing the mass of something to stop resonances is the same thing slapping that dynamat in the center of a door panel, or the center of a flat floorpan...

You got 'called out' because you made a bad guess. Live with it. You got dyno results, you just chose to ignore them. Like I said initially, this isn't a Honda Forum, expect to be bluntly presented with information by knowledgable individuals....who may or my not answer your beck and call to present empirical evidence when they are 11 Time Zones from where all their sh*t happens to be stored. If you make a boneheaded comment, don't get defensive when you're informed it's incorrect. It's that easy. You simply got well over the edge on sarcasam for no good reason. If someone makes a bad, incorrect statement, should they NOT have the correct information posted? Kinda goes counter to what this site is all about, doesn't it?

Scratch and dent stuff is usually available cheap. Many of the ricer parts sold for Hondas at Auto Zone and Pep Boys are easily hacked up to fit a Z as well. I took mine off and reinstalled the stock filter housing with a K&N filter in it because the Open-Element CAI simply was too damn noisy...constant hissssssssss-ing. Frankly, my G-Tech and 1/4 Mile Times didn't show any loss after putting it back to 'stock' with the K&N aftermarket filter element in it. So I guess if you want something to do, you can replace it, but from my testing I didn't see any improvement in anything, and a definate detraction in additional noise. Speaking as someone who works in and around factory environments in Mainland China, don't be quick to dismiss the 'trashing' people do regarding who makes what or how in China... Unless you have seen it firsthand, a lot of the stories would sound 'made up', & wouldn't believe conditions if told simply because the frame of reference is so foreign to western ways of thinking. Conditions given to the same western minds during the industrial revolution of the 1800's though...would think the conditions 'progressive'.

Is the RB20 transmission any different from the L-6 Tranny? Originally the RB20DET was placed in the same chassis that formerly had L20ET's in them and I'm thinking the tranny was the same in those applications. Of course it went into the Z31 Chassis, so that kind of throws a wrench in the 'possible transmissions used' department. Does anybody know if the 200ZR used a standard Z31 Transmission, or an earlier L-Based one? From my recollection of the fuel consumption data at the time, the early RB20 Turbos were consistent with their L-Based Brethern...meaning fuel consumption very near the same. Later RB's, like from the GTS-T Skylines had quite a bit more HP, and I would venture a guess...more fuelish appetities.

Beta Motorsports is 1.5 Hours drive in LaHabra. Knows Z's and Rusty Old Z's.... Talk with John...

When the engine blows up 2X and screws you out of two paid track days...you start wanting something you can actually drive! It's easy to make someone else's decision for them, if it's not you hammering till 3AM every night after work trying to make the next track deadline. The superturbo will simply go into his street car, something he doesn't need to have running by any date. His plans are already working toward the readily available BMW tuning components in his homeland. Chipsets for the ECU, Supercharger... You got to understand, Frank (er, his surrogate shipper-parts goopher in the USA, me) spent more than $256 in shipping costs in a single week to get some bearings, and then some lash pads overnighted. Frankly, the parts are hard to come by, and I believe his choice of powerplants...for where he is...is a FAR better choice for what the intended use of the vehicle will be. He has less into the BMW V8 swap than he has in broken components from the first L-Engine Failure. Plus, the engine and transmission is considerably less weight than the setup he took out...as well as being completely behind the front axle line...mid-engined if you will. He wasn't going to get that with the setup he was using. The more he added, the heavier the front end was getting. Not good on a track car without power steering!

(Bump) Just because I think all those cool photos deserve to be viewed some more....

I am diseased...

Boost is your friend Brad Man... I have seen the stock hydraulic cam spin 450 rwhp. The profile is decent, it just makes the HP at lower RPMS than is 'exciting' for most people. Some porting on the head and intake manifold, and you can get real good power on a turbo Z with a stock hydraulic cam!

I said moving the ports up and using a Mikuini Style Manifold would be easier and probably result in similar valve-approach angles as tilting the valve. One would have to draw it out to see if the approach angles could be made using this approach. Drawing board and drafting machine are 1/2 the world away right now, so I can be of no help till I return home to check it in that manner. Someone with CAD could probably do it far quicker.

Doug 71ZT pretty much nailed it with the ratios. We were considering the T56 with the turbo and a 4.11 gearset for Bonneville, as we need to go 224+mph for the record. Though the 3.54 and Z32 tranny may work in this resepct as well, and allow us to change gearsets to 4.11 for the 'short track' in SoCal. The ability to lope around at 2K rpms is overblown, even in an L6Turbo. They still like 2700 as he stated, and it's grossly misdriving the vehicle if you want any sort of performance without downshifting two gears while you mat it... With a SBC I could see the T56 in a street car... But generally if you have the torque to pull the ratios, less gears will be faster than more gears. Corvettes once came with three speed manuals...LOL

Check your post at the other Z-Site, you got a detailed answer there... Not going to retype it here. If you want to cut and paste the answer....

Here is what I will do: When I get back from 'The Desert'... I will go an pull my mirrors off my Fairlady 280Z (X) and do a proper measurement to the centre of the mounting holes. I just was informed my original 280ZX drawings have arrived in the mail back home, so I will transpose those to the line drawing, same as Alan's S30 Diagram. I will CLEARLY label on the diagram LHD and RHD locations (most likely two different drawings for clarity's sake). I will ALSO label the drawing as "Mine"...LOL I can be creative with this point... Then I will post it somewhere---maybe here. Probably will post it to ClassicZ's as well. That should give people a place to find the correct information and know if it's for an LHD or RHD vehicle straightaway. Hummus and Garlic Cloves for me tonight...la la la la la la la la:hijack: itsaprothing, are you a member of the West Side Z Coalition? Marcus at WSZC jsut affixed his fender mirrors using Alan's Template but I never asked if he transposed R&L and haven't seen the car since he did the change so... Anyway, if you are in Burbank, you should check them out---they have a site on meetup. The coordinate with Group Z in Orange County on events and drives, etc...

Point well taken Alan---that was your diagram to begin with...like you said it floats around! My reference was only in relation to who posted it here...the credit for the original diagram should have been made in the original post. I considered it, but I'm groggy and 11 hours ahead of the Time Zone I'm supposed to be in... And I've been informed Lufthansa has cancelled my flight, so it looks like I'm going to be routing back through Heathrow...eventually... Muddy the Waters? Me...never!