Tony D

argh... misuse and perpetuation of the 'lag' myth... I won't even try.

That was an L28 bored 0.040" don't know if that's quite 3.0... and that 320hp reading was blowing by like crazy because of scored walls... The 2L (1998cc) is making 205 to the rear wheels, though. All common, standard machining process that has been around on the L-Series for almost 40 years now. Nothing 'trick' or 'spectacular'...matter of fact, very standard stuff. You want predictable, not epxerimental if you're in it for the long haul. Actually, the L-4's usually make more specific HP than most L-6's because of the ability to rev higher for longer periods due to that short crankshaft. L-6's can do it but rarely do for some reason or another. Some of the items mentioned in that thread are already under development...er...'elsewhere'...

JeffP retrofitted a Defi Stepper motor tach to his stock gauge cluster when he started revving beyond the stock tach capabilities... Added a 200 mph speedo at the same time. Looks good to me, stockish. Don't see why that Porsche cluster couldn't benefit from the same style of hackage...

I have driven further for less... For that price and even a semi-solid body this really is a no-brainer! If it was cheaper, I'd take the day off from work without pay and go the same day I found out about it. Done that before as well! Those who snooze....loose!

Look where they measure width---it's the mirrors, not the body of the car! That is the reason Fairlady Z's are 'narrower' than the Euro/N.A. cars as well, they have the fender mirrors so the car is measured at the 'fender blisters' being the widest point. This is one of the reasons the JDM market Z31 Turbos had such funky looking fender blisters---they were abbreviated with a wider 'flange' around the edge to keep them within the 2-liter tax class. Also on the weight, my 75 Fairlady Z 2+2 weighed 2695# with me (255# at the time) in it, so the weights also differ between markets. If you want to check dimensions, check the JDM specifications, and you will see they are all within the proscribed 1550 (I think) mm width restriction for the 2-liter tax class, save for the Fairlady 240Z and the ZG---they were already in the '33' Number Plate catagory, so were basically given unrestricted width so the overfenders were left on and homogolated into the specification. I digress.... As for the questions regarding title and plates, things are different here garvice...waaay different than most of the UK's former colonies. We broke with the motherland before advent of the automobile, so their influence is not as pronounced in registration/transfer requirements as it is with other former colonies. If only they had the '3 of 5' rule here in the USA, I would be a happy man rebodying myriad Z's with good paperwork, but rusty shells more easily replaced than reworked! Technically in California the only people who can 'part out' cars are state registered breakers and similar businesses. But enforcement and public outcry would force legislation change if they decided to actually follow the useless laws put in place to shelter this constituency or that... I politicize...LOL

nothing...

That's kind of what I'm getting at, position is pretty much irrelevant, and mounting it closer to the turbo will have no effect other than to disrupt airflow. The further away from the turbo inlet, the better. I have also mounted them upside down, no problems there either. Ianz's car (the maroon roadster) has an upside down mounted AFM right AT the radiator core with a stub of PCV through the core hole, suspended by it and the piping to the turbo...and IT even runs fine. I mean, I may be missing something in this scenario, but this is a 260Z, so all the fuel lines should be properly sized for a stock setup no problem. Was the alternator converted to the internally-regulated unit from the ZXT? Was the old regulator removed and diode-capped to prevent run-on... Lots of vague symptoms and a LOT of jumping around grasping at straws. Troubleshooting takes sticking it out, and working one problem at a time. Fixing it properly, and moving on. Lots of people don't like to do it, because it reveals all the shortcuts taken earlier in the conversion process...but that is what is required when things don't run right. I mean, this whole thread was predicated on the premise that the AFM position had some radically detrimental effect on airflow---and such is not the case. I just can't figure out where 'The AFM not getting enough airflow by the radiator' train of thought came into this at all---just can't follow that line of logic. Like you surmised with all this talk about PCV Filters being replaced, then part of the PCV System falling off I would much more suspect false air through the valve cover into the intake tract or through the open PCV hose under the intake than AFM Position! The PCV is a closed system, and 'sticking a filter on it' is not going to make your car run properly if you are still sucking air in through the valve cover, through the block, and then into the intake manifold through the PCV! That's "False Air" and bad in this system. The PCV is CLOSED LOOP. A tube from between the AFM and the Turbo supplies AFM-Metered air to the valve cover, it passes through the crankcase and into the intake manifold at high-vacuum situations---this air is figured into the equation. Under boost, the PCV is closed, and venting of blowby occurs through reverse-flow from the valve cover into the piping between the AFM and the Turbo Inlet. It's a very simple system, and works very well. About the only thing one needs to add is possibly a mech catch-can to do extra knockout duty if you have a lot of blowby on a tired engine...

That looks to be a tubular manifold, not a cast unit as I was thinking. They made a cast one as well, as part of a conversion kit. This one is something different. That may well have LHD Mounting Issues. Drop it in and see. If it does, I got three RHD Cars it would probably fit on! LOL

Well I guess since none of my S30's were ever OBD compliant, that is not an issue for me... And the EPA has issued rulings regarding vehicles over 30 years old regarding emissions... So I would think the vehicles addressed are those produced within the past 10 years and anything else is a biiiiiiiig grey area. A CNG Lincoln Town Car for instance...All the 'regulated components' are there for a 5.4L V8 conversion (or bigger V10)...and you can't tell me the CNG Tanks from a late-model Honda Civic are any more well mounted in that little crapbox than where they could be on..say, a 1975 280Z with REAL 5-MPH Compliant Bumpers! Nobody here has an 'Exempt' vehicle, either. Unless you meet some very stringent conditions, or work for a municipality... NGV Systems on Gothard in Huntinvton Beach has been doing CNG conversions in SoCal with CARB Blessings for years. Maybe someone should approach them with the question. Then again, these guys are droning on about CARB compliance. What Joe Public does outside of California to his 30 year old classic vehicle is about as far from Governmental Snooping Purview as I think it can be. As long as you are using DOT compliant pieces, a 'DOT Compliance Stop' would net nothing of note... What these guys are talkingabout is people taking scuba tanks or CNG Tanks from Boats for Cooking Gas and stacking the back of their Surplus Dodge Passenger Van chock full 'o tanks so they got a 1000 mile cruising capability (why do I mention this? Because just such a vehicle arrived every second Thursday at a Clean Energy Fuels Station I tended...) I think the DOT has a LOT better things to do than do random roadside compliance checks of private individuals doing PERSONAL conversions for PERSONAL use... Then again, the gubbmint does some stupid things to waste the people's money, far be it from me to say it would never happen. I hope you aren't suggesting you convert a tank from one gas use to another?!?!?! CNG tanks are integral to the vehicle, and are designed for removal for maintenance, inspection, and replacement. Many vehicles have supplemental tanks added to increase their range between fillups. I know of a lawyer in SoCal that does all his travelling in-state in such a modified Lincoln Town Car. Certified conversion/addition? Who knows, maybe if the DOT stops him he'll pro-bono advocate on behalf of hobby conversion enthusiasts nationwide! It's interesting how they get on the pre-OEM conversion stuff---like there is some greay area about it since there was no existing legislation regarding it: Note that, unlike the unregulated "conversion kits" that were available from dozens of manufacturers in the late-1970s through the mid-1990s, all gaseous fuel engine systems on the market today are engineered and tested to comply with the same tough CARB and/or EPA emissions performance requirements as the large automobile manufacturers. I got to think that maybe it might be up to me to determine the suitability of the vehicle's application rather than Big Brother. So they didn't meet todays 'stringent oem quality/emissions standards'---neither does my 240Z...should it be relegated to illegality and I be forced to drive a 350 now as my only alternative. Sounds like a lobby group entrenching their fifedom to me...

One of the few (?Only?) original Woodstock-Appearing Groups that hasn't drugged themselves into oblivion... Something to be said for the common sense of a Michigander...

Being able to weld aluminum, and being able to weld an aluminum head casting are two different things altogether. Preheat, post heat, stress relief, preload bending, bending to true the head afterwards... It's not just zapping the thing with your TIG and letting it cool down...do that and the chunks will fall out of the chamber onto the piston crown while the engine's running... Many L-Heads have been extensively reworked (including in the valve area) without any problems whatsoever (same with VW heads and etc...) But you want to take the head to a place set up for welding large aluminum castings and heads. Have them repair all the corrosion extant around the water passages as once you're done with the welding, top and bottom surfaces likely will have to be trued anyway, so they may as well have nice properly shaped water passages as well as nice new looking high-quench combustion chambers...

I don't recall now which flange was on the stainless steel cast manifold, but given HKS's penchant, I would guess it's more of a T4 flange than a T3 given the state of turbo technology at the time. Wastegate will be any of the 'sandwich' configuration units Deltagate, Rajay, Old Turbonetics...though I believe the idea was to have internally-gated turbos from HKS to use on the thing. Photos? If it's hanging the turbo anywhere near stock location, it's universal LHD/RHD though when they were available HKS was more "JDM Oriented" than export on major components like that... It was part of a kit.

Where is this thread where Tony D mentions he is running a T56 in a land speed car? Can somebody link that for me? >:^( I can tell you right now, the Bonneville Car has a NISMO Direct-Drive close-ratio five speed. And the Mod I assisted JeffP with was to fit a Tremec TKO onto a T-5 Bellhousing. No T56 in any of that menage of work. The only thing I would even consider the T56 on is the Turbo Project...and then, it's a toss with the 4.11 gearing we would have to run at the speeds we want. And that's more for torque handling capabilities than anything else. G-Force is making T5 Retrofit Gearset claims that make me stand up and take notice because not having to screw with mounts and linkages has some appeal... as well as 'selectable gear ratios'... I'm curious as well, why do you want, or have to posess 'a 6-Speed'?

Do you have one?

Looks Good Frank! I even sent it on to Herr Hekendorf who I'm sure will approve... And to think I was upset that I missed Ted Nugent in Zaragosa whilst I was in Spain, and then in Amsterdam and some other place in Holland that very weekend I left...ON TOP of missing your invite to the Nurburgring AND NOW realizing that there are Dutchies that are Infected like I am (http://www.tednugent.nl/) makes me even MORE upset at not just 'claiming vacation' against the wife's ire and just taking in a few shows and checking out the progress as well as gul;ping down a couple gallons of Dutch Beer at a Loud Concert where I know all the words... And I really have to wonder if the Rhetoric is toned down while in Amsterdam...This makes me as curious as I am to see the car in person now...and maybe coordinate a Concert Trip in this as well! Z's, Nugent, and Beer...What more could I ask for? I could die and be happy... Back to my Reality in Abu Dhabi...

What is in your tank? Got something blocking the pickup tube? Blowing air through a filter doesn't confirm it's 'good', either. Simply replace the filter. That's a cheap bit of insurance. I am still trying to figure out why the AFM got swapped for a Fuel Pressure Issue. What you stated before was it was at 15-20psi then jumps to 50-55. That is a big difference from 8...and what is the upper end of the pressure now? The pump bypasses at 60psi...and that's usually around 50-55 at the rail due to pressure drop. I'm thinking a plugged fuel filter, restricted hose, or intermittently plugged return line will cause the jump to 50-55, but the drop to 8 (or 15-20) may simply be a result of the relief valve in the pump not reacting quick enough to something releasing it's restriction. What FPR is on it, what is it set to, what pump are you using now if you 'replaced it', and why did you swap to an aftermarket rail with 'new' injectors before finding out what was causing the fuel pressure problem. Anything you have changed can possibly compound your initial issue, and lead to new issues unrelated to the first...which you may be experiencing now. Best to fix one thing at a time till you know it's good, then modify.

From the sounds of it, it sounds like simply a stuck thermostat. If it was doing this, and when you remove it the thing stabilizes at 160 at idle with no thermostat, the thermostat was bad. I use the thermostat from a 1962 Chevrolet Bel-Air with a 327 V8 (and drill a 2mm air bleed hole in the disc if there's not one in there already)...I can buy a 160, 170, 180, and 190F thermostat for that model, and since they are all 54mm units, they fit in the Z-Housing juuuust fine. Running a 160 degree unit keeps underhood temperatures lower during the summer so the car is not so apt to vapor-lock with the crap-gas they sell today. So what was the outcome? Doc Hawk made it jump back to the top, now I'm all curious...

I'm at a loss why you think positioning of the AFM would have anything to do with your issues. I have placed them in front of the radiator bulkhead crossways, as well as behind the radiator bulkhead straight, and never closer to the turbo than they are stock in several S30 conversions. Methinks your issue is not with the position of the AFM, but in something else allowing false air, or other standard ECCS Malady. The closer the turbo is to the turbo, the more flow disruption you will have going into the turbo, and the more likely you will alter it's surge line. Generally, the ideal situation is that the inlet to the turbo (any turbo) will have at least 4 to 12 inlet diameters of straight tubing run ahead of the impellers...so if that has a 3" inlet, the ideal situation would be a minimum of 12" straight tubing before the turbo for maximum airflow through the unit...

What Class is the Red Evo planning on running in at Bonneville? Widebody kit would seem to make it a BGALT sort of proposition, eh?

I'm probably a bit jaded to comment enthusiastically here... I went to TMEN Alcohol Fuel Seminars as an impressionistic and idealistic youth...this was the late 70's when President Carter decided that you should be able to make 'farm use alcohol' for running your farm implements. Well...I made over 500 gallons one summer. Somewhere I have the copious BATF records for that laying up in my parent's attic, if they haven't thrown them out by now... Sugar Beet Based... Made a dedicated VW engine to run it in my 62 VW Microbus (get the picture here, man? Like totally hollistic, man!). The original engine was 8:1 running on gasoline and got maybe 10-12mpg running a center-mount 48IDA. I used the 48IDA setup because it was cheaper than having to buy two sets of larger inlet needle-&-seat combos to run the alky... Anyway, after the conversion (simple really in a VW, flycut the heads, or pull your barrell spacers to change piston deck height) I was running 13.5:1 CR and while the engine made what felt like more power, it got... Are you ready for this? A best of 7mpg. Driving around town I got maybe 5 if I was lucky. So about half the mileage I got with the pure gasoline engine. Cold drivability was atrocious, I gave up and converted back as the temperatures dipped closer to the 50's and 40's and used the remaining Alky to make my own "Gasahol" at around a 20% mix of Ethanol to Petrol simply because I got my Federal Excise Taxes back from the gasoline I bought doing that---you had to mix at least 10% to get the rebate from the Feds...and records records records! I'm sure EFI would change some of the drivability issues, and yeah, during humid August you could see the stuff 'milk up' if you left it uncorked for too long. If I was going to do something like this again, it'd be with CNG or LPG on a dedicated engine. I've lived with those too, and while I can't make enough CNG from my own personal sources like I could with Ethanol... At least I would retain the identical fuel economy as the original petroleum engine I supplanted. I don't see Ethanol as any fix for anything other than getting All Dat Money to go someplace it sholdn't be in the first place.

"Manifold Destiny" I have an old B&W Magazine Ad of that setup, Ingelese I believe. The above words are all it says below the photo. Been on the wall forever.

Check out the back of the 81 ZXT Dampner---the trigger wheel for the 81 CAS bolts to the center of the pulley, and there is a ring of bolts (5 of them) as well as a locating dowel to pin the CAS wheel in place. If nothing else, modification of the OEM 81 ZXT CAS Trigger Wheel to 36-2 configuration, or mounting the EDIS Trigger Wheel to the 81 CAS Trigger Assembly suitably modified would seem to be pretty straightforward. Bolting or welding should accomplish what you need. Check my CarDomain page for some photos of the 81 CAS setup (I think there is a link to it in the Megasquirt Forum)---looks like you could use the original 81 CAS bracketry to fab up the EDIS Sensor pickup point as well, and have some adjustability to boot!

My comment on blocking the bypass hole in the block being 'bad' is directly related to the ammount of flow the waterpump will produce when the engine is revved off-idle BEFORE the thermostat is cracked. There has to be enough flow through the engine's bypass circuits to allow the pump flowing freely without cavitation. This is roughly 2 10mm holes flowing directly back to the inlet of the pump. In later cars like the 73 and 74 Z's the second bypass line around the back of the engine was closed off as the engine neared 170-177F...about the time the thermostat was cracking to flow to the radiator. Note the thermostat has a spring relief function---put enough pressure on it and it WILL pop open somewhat, allowing flow. But it's likely the pump is experiencing cavitation from low-flow before that point. Put a water pressure gauge on the block and watch what happens. It's interesting, you can see when the pump is cavitating if you have a good resolution gauge with a fluid damped movement. It will start twitching, moving around, etc...and right about that time, if you have a good temperature gauge, you will see the temps start to do strange things: cool off....then rise suddenly, the rise some more...

MSA and Isky Cams both had them. Unfortunately, each place only had 8 of the size I needed, so I bought 16 total and shipped 'em off to Frank280ZX in an overnight UPS envelope so he could set up his engine. They're cheap enough. But ultimately they all come from Nissan... If you have a friend with a surface grinder posessing a magnetic chuck you buy the 'thick ones' and simply surface grind them down to the thickness you need. You can do one at a time if you like...

"That which is not whipping around in a fog near the crankshaft is available in the oil pan for lubricating the engine." As obtuse as I will get in the argument for installation. Argue horsepower all you want, but keeping oil in the sump (like polishing the internals surfaces of the engine block to aid oil drainback) doesn't necessarily make more horsepower. It's not all about making horsepower. Sometimes, it's about making the engine live...