Tony D

That's a bit overcooking the statement. Mario said he extrude honed the manifold. That is correct. He extrude honed it. It is not 'highly modified' unless you consider the stock AAR and EGR being blocked off with shiny plates. The Extrude-Hone price is retail. If you show up in Paramount and talk with the guys you can get it done for half that price (same advice I gave JeffP, and why he did it). For the Turbine Housing it's a nice finish, it gets casting flash out of the thing that you can't get to any other way. Diesel Places routinely do it because they find they can pick up 2-3%. In any case, Extrude Honing is going to cost money and take time. A home port with some cartridge rolls is probably your best bet. You can pick up all the stuff you need at McFadden Dale Hardware in Corona or Anaheim (very close to the MSA Events when you are down here). What I found nice for doing the quickest cleanup is appropriately sized flapper wheels on a long mandrel. It makes nice work of cleaning up the runnners, rather than enlarging them. I'd remove the bumps at the injector end from the hold-down bolts (use sealer on the bolts for S&G) and then concentrate on simply smoothing the runners of all casting flash. With a long mandrel, you will be able to get a flapper wheel in from the back side (Head End) all the way to the plenum. The hardest thing to do is remove the damnable EGR bumps at the inlet of the runner on the plenum end. I have seen N/A plenums where people have used hole saws to cut access holes into the plenum and get to the inlet end of the runners. They then epoxy/weld the plugs back in, or use core plugs to seal it back up. No real need to cut the whole plenum off to access the runners. But given the size of the runners will be likely quite a bit smaller than the ports Dave gave you, I would say concentrate on smoothing the walls more than trying to enlarge them, and use the 'step' at the head as an anti-reversion measure for anything that may happen during valve overlap events. It's a big step, and should be closer to 1mm, but if you try to enlarge those runners you're going to be in for a miserable time trying to get it right without cutting up the plenum. I don't think you can do it without cutting the plenum in some way...hence my concentration on simple smoothing and removing the bolt bumps that impede flow.

As I always say, if they are freeze plugs, why is there one on the air side plenum of the intake manifold? Core Plugs.

Most of the stuff in front of the shock towers is there to attach cosmetics to, and not much else. Frankly, you could almost cut the front of the car off there and leave the engine hangind off the K-Member and the car wouldn't handle much differently if you have put a decent strut bar on there. If the back of the car (strut towers to firewall, tower to tower, and tower to swaybar mount) is tied together well enough, that lower radiator section isn't that critical at all. Almost anything would do. I'd shy away from 'Fence Post' for the Zinc concerns mentioned above...but if the back end is tied together, then the boxing up front is not really that important. Actually, if you look at some of the tube frame cars, radiator 'supports' would be an overgenerous term for what you will find...

I was having the discussion about 'wunderplugs' with someone else earlier this week. My story relates to large industrial engines. I ran a generating station, and we would use 96 spark plugs every two weeks. That's as long as $1.59 Champion D15Y plugs would last. We bought them in lots of 1000 a couple of times a year. The closest we EVER got to a cost-competitive plug that actually did something was the Splitfire. Our fuel consumption went down around 50KSCFM per generator per day, we got much more uniform EGT's, and cylinder to cylinder pressure variations decreased to nil. Problem was t hey only lasted around 4 days due to center electrod erosion. They used an Autolite plug as the base, and would not change to a different center electrode. It was a great deal at only $5 a plug. We begged and begged them to try to get another center electrode because of the positive results. Now...we had people from Stitt sell us some plugs. They were special 'wunderplugs' (mind you, when Splitfire heard that I ordered around 3000 plugs a year and wasn't quibbling about the cost of $5 a plug, they outright GAVE me 300 plugs to test FREE, as long as I shared testing data with them.) These Stitt Plugs were comparable in every way to the Champions. They lasted two weeks, roughly. Cylinder misfires were roughly the same, kinda 'bouncy' on the KW meter when running... But HEY! They were rebuildable so we could buy six sets or so, and rotate them through their 'cleaning and rebuilding program'... Thing was, the Stitt spark plug as $400 EACH, and the 'bargian rebuild cost' was $100 EACH. That's right, we paid $400 EACH for 'testing' of their plugs, and they didn't work any damn better than the $1.59 Champion D15Y's we had been using for 10 years at that point. What a deal eh? It was sad the Splitfire people couldn't get a better electrode, with the cost of Natural Gas, 50KSCFM a day would add up! For only $5 a plug they actually had the best performing plug in our engines ever. Problem was they only lasted 4 to 5 days, and the maintenance downtime was too much to change them that often. If they could have made it to 10 days, we would have bought them and been their sales example for Natural Gas pumping stations/generators nationwide. So when you see the next $25 'wunderplug'...just remember, it could be worse! You could be up a Stitt Creek without a paddle! BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!

That's an old Crown Conversion for a 240/260Z and the tubular adapter is prone to rust out as condensate collects there after shutdown... That was from the 70's. HKS and SK made nice cast adapters for N/A Turbo applications as well that last much longer. Good luck finding one of them. The Stock L28ET manifold will support 500HP without much internal modification at all. The stock EuroSpec Turbo Manifold is much larger internally and generally a better piece overall (the turbo flange area is already opened up for better flow, and the runners are larger than the 1 5/8" tubular headers one 'vendor' was selling! Good luck finding one of theose as well, they are NLA new. Flanges for the conversion are hardly "rare" by any stretch of the imagination. With the stock turbo manifold supporting 400HP stock, and easily supporting 500HP in slighly cleaned up form the question begs 'why?' That the heat is removed is slightly overstated as the rediant surface of the larger manifold will have some effect in that area. And the almost 180 degree turn to enter the turbine will not be the greatest flow-wise, either. The conversions on N/A's shown and spoken about in my post here all were low-boost and low-horsepower applications. They worked decently for what they were, but they were not 500HP setups by a long shot. And as far a making a turbo that sits on the bottom of the flange directly so as not to disturb the flow...maybe in a RHD, but not in a North American Spec car...I'm thinking the steetring shaft as well as other items would be an issue just knowing where the stock manifold exits. Turbo should still be high enough to allow for good drainage in either case. They did fine on my Crown, and the SK EFI conversion (egads, that thing used resistors on pressure switches to enrich the mixture!)

That setup Frank has posted is almost identical to what I had setup in my 240Z. Two of those pumps are Facet/Bendix Style low-pressure booster pumps that keep the swirl pot/surge tank full, with the EFI pump sucking from the bottom of it for the High-Pressure side of the equation. Nice thing about it is that the fuel is double filtered before it goes into the main pump-increasing it's longevity as well. The Facet/Bendix pumps usually have inlet filters in the bottom section of the pump, though you can order them without the filter as well. So first filter, then through the second filter, then into the main pump. Puts ALL filtration on the LOW PRESSURE circuit, so that a clogged filter will be FAR less likely to cause a problem in High-Pressure Fuel Delivery. And given it's in the low-pressure side, it's unlikely the filter will ever get enough pressure behind it to blow out...and throw fibers down into the injector screens. (For instance...er, not saying this has happened to anybody in this thread...) Frank, I keep telling him to get AAA Extended Towing, and remove that space-saver spare and build a Sjaack-Style Aluminum Tank for the Methanol Injection back there in the spare tire well... Who cares if there's methanol in the passenger compartment, you can't see it when it burns anyway! LOL

Yeah, I was waiting for the spectacular explosion as well. Been there, done that. Nothing like watching a flywheel shatter and come flying out and stick in (or pass through) the ceiling!

On cars later than 74. No lids on consoles pre-260Z. I mean, 'cuffs and collars' don't match. claimed 31K miles... Look at the engine bay inspection light and e-brake handle, as well as the console repair. I have seen several real low-mileage cars, and it just doesn't jibe that a car has a 'real' 31K on it, and has wear on these items. I'm curious on production date as well. I have seen a 9/72 vehicle with some strange mismatched components, but not Weber DGV's, almost everyone kept those 72 SU's!

"On a scale of 1-10, I'd give the interior a 7." 7? Wow, I want some of you guys as judges at a National Level when I enter my ride for judging! That's generous! Must be a 'regional' thing...LOL

Greed is a sin, gawd will punish you for your pursuit of opulence. If you crack a Moosehead and it's skunky...it's a sign! LOL

VNT on a two-compressor, single turbine shaft turbo. (Dual Compressor wheels for more flow) Or VNT on a two-compressor, two turbine integral turbo. (Series Supercharging, one turbo feeds the other for higher pressures and flows than can be accomplished by one compressor alone!) They are out there....I've seen 'em! Can't say where due to some papers I signed, but it's not hard to figure out...

Yeah, Mazda Bongo Van. Nissan competes in the same size segment with the "Homer" I had a Toyota HiAce with a Dual Carbbed 4K under the seat. Used it for storage, mostly! LOL "I digress" as well as 'Bump' to keep it on top.

"If you actually unwrap your harnesses there are dozens of splices and wires that are not on the diagrams." Oh gawd yes! It's downright scary! I have made this suggestion in frustration at other places as well. It's not that hard. Or you would think.

Japanese have used multiple pumps for years. Each pump should have it's own discrete in-body check valve, and unless you are spending real $$$ adding an external check valve may cause more problems than it solves, especially as it relates to fuel flow. MSD Boost-A-Pump...hmmmm I think someone mentioned dual pumps, 1100CC/min injectors, and some stainless steel repiping of the fuel system on the phone some hours ago...muahahaha! "Every time I call you it costs me $2000!" No problem, just go to the money tree and pick some more! LOL Jeff has the power he wants (Anybody else recall 'all I want is 600 flywheel horsepower and I'll be happy'?), he's just getting greedy now! Bwahaha!

209/150 is a good set of numbers, you will like the way that thing takes off! Dave knows his stuff. Reasonably priced as well!

Not "OMG" by a long shot. Other than the claims being made. I know street-driven SoCal cars better than that thing. More like "MEH!" than "OMG!"

Sell it to the Japanese, and make sure to include the flow data...they go bonkers for diagrams like that! LOL "SSS" at one time was the home of the Devil-Z in Wangan Midnight, Speed Shop Sinohara...I guess now the new MonZter-Z will come from "SSS" as well!

1974 Datsun 260Z 2+2 with four speed has R200 3.36 Ratio from Factory. It's not in the factory shop manual, you need the parts fiche or the factory 'Green Book' to find out that little ditty. I've yarded two of them and passed them on, and know that is one of the easiest places to find one. Now, just find a 260Z 2+2 in the USA.... I know of one more that is 'easy pickins' but after that...

There are those who drive rental cars locked in low gear right at redline, simply because they can...er not mentioning/implying/admitting/instigating/pointing at/nudging/ or otherwise saying anybody in particular... But I know having a cool 'Redline Indicator' on your posts might incline some to see just how far they can go... It would be cool, to be sure...but I can see someone making a bad decision on the premise that they aren't even 'in the yellow yet'... Then a time out would be the equivalent of starting your Impala with 41K miles on the odo after school and dropping #6 exhaust valve through the piston. All those other times you got away with bouncing the speedo needle off the right hand turnsignal indicator, and then THIS happens...you wonder 'where's the justice' and 'dad will NEVER believe I just STARTED the damn thing!' Again, not mentioning/implying/admitting/instigating/pointing at/nudging/ or otherwise saying anybody in particular...

What was the mantra during the Apollo Project? "Work the problem." It's a heluva lot more productive when you do it that way, eh?

Did Kevin contact you about making another Paeco-Goertz head? They did have fully dimensioned drawings of that head, along with the machining jigs for finishing the head. It was bought lock-stock-and barrel at a swap meet. Nice hand-drawn full size prints with fractional dimensions (no decimals!)

My Early Fairlady Z-S (S30-00745) had OEM "Chromed Steel" surrounds as Alan says. My 75-S had the Stainless Steel, same as my 76 Z-L and the 77 Z-L 2/2. Okinawa was not kind to the early model variant, same as to early bumpers. Nissan seemed to have a knack for somehow heavily chroming only one side of a piece, leaving the backside suceptible to corrosion! I was unaware of any good reproductions, learn something new every day. I just assumed they were like the items on my early car. (Alas, that car 'went to earth' back in 86... Terminal Rust that only living on a small tropical island can give you...when it's 'salty rain' you know it's bad for cars!)

Wow, December 74 production 280Z IS early! I have a December 74 260Z 2+2, but the Air Cleaner Mount, AFM Mount, etc are all missing. Neat thing is I got the 3.36 R200...muahahahaha! "I digress" Y'know, it could be one of those 'VIN SWAPPIES' that you should steer clear of... I would be very interested to know what the door plate says, as well as engine bay and firewall VIN says. The 240 Dash WILL bolt-in to a later car...and if they just swapped the dash to make a 'good VIN' car they could sell, whomever buys it may get a nasty suprise when they open the doorjamb and see 'HLS30-367XXX' and that matches the hard VIN in the firewall, and the engine dataplate... Curious, no shots of the door jamb ID plate, engine ID plate, or Firewall VIN.... Hmmmmmm. I'd be steering clear regardless of the price until those issues were identified positively!

"More Clear-Headed, Ego-Berift Heads are better than one!" LOL

OH THAT'S SNEAKY! What VIN number sequence did the 280Z begin at, it ALSO is an 'HLS30'!!! It could be a very-early production 280Z...Seeing the carbon-cannister mount, Air Filter mount, AFM Mount and A/C lines in that last engine bay photo....it's not a 260 for sure. VIN could correspond to an early 280Z as well as a late 240Z...given the engine bay evidence advantage 280Z...