Tony D

That's where mine is, position #1, directly behind the throttle shaft, in the spacer for the 60mm T/B I used.

It is, "warmspot trollville" and yelling will get you nowhere here. Be more specific in your location, and maybe someone can answer, but given your presentation, I doubt your story.

Just fired off a MS with an LC1 running SU Carbs, and it was idling at 1.68! Actually, it was revving at 1.68 as well... With EGT's in the 1400 range going down the road. The owner swears he will "get the SU's running correctly" and I laughed. I told him for the effort, he can install his injectors and have the MS drive them, and that will be easier than getting his SU's to work correctly!!!

no aftermarket heads anymore is more correct... though I have on good authority that three NOS LY heads surfaced recently but I am sworn to secrecy on their location, dammit!

Megasquirt does take a MAF feedback signal... Why adapt it, and keep crappy stock mapping when you can go Megasquirt and have it all?

Well, isn't a Buick currently using an OEM electric water pump? They have been using them in Europe for retrofit applications for years. I won't get into the "it makes reverse flow cooling of any engine easier" argument, that's a different can of worms altogether. Like Goldfish said, you can control the speed of the flow through the engine independent of engine speed, and linked more to temperature transfer. We use one like described above on the EP car. A hacked abortion of a Summit-Bought V8 conversion kit, along with a pulley almost as big as the fan on the alternator to drop it's speed as well. Alternator didn't like 9500 Engine Crankshaft RPMS...Neither did the OEM water pump.

Indeed! It's what my wife said when I bought my Atlas! "It's the little things!" This bushing, that bearing. Buying stainless fasteners in BULK at one length, and then facing them off as you need them one or two at a time, knowing all the while you bought 1000 M6-1.0X60 Button head Cap Screws at a penny a peice instead of 20 cents a piece....and making them all fit the different nooks and crannies around the Z where an M6-1.0 is used... Refacing chisels and punches that have mushroomed... Making specialty "offset" fasteners out of Hex Stock.... Oh, those things come in handy! I'll testify to that... I bought mine for $150 back in 1989 with a three and four jaw chuck, some tooling and a knurling tool, got the full set of gearing for $15 at the Pomona Swap Meet about two months later. I see the same lathe on E-Bay now selling for over $350!!! And mine is in better shape than those in most cases. I'm glad I bought mine. "They Grow on You" LOL

just like nissan did it on the dual-throttle plate intake T/B used on JDM Fairlady Z's... Throttle rotation is throttle rotation, using a rotary position sensor anywhere the linkage is solidly linked will work. I have a Kinsler adapter that remote mounts up under the dash on the firewall. Nowhere near the throttles, but if you linkage has no play, what's the difference? I have seen people put drill rod in the stock SU throttle piece on the balance tube to actuate their TPS. The throttle position is relative. If you are going total Alpha-N (TPS and RPM based fueling only) that is all you need. If you have a MAP sensor in there, or a MAF, then TPS is relative, you don't need to know where each throttle is, the MAP will tell you that, you just need to get a relative position in relationship to idle and WOT. It will scale anywhere in between, and compensate based on MAP or MAF feedback. BTW, the Megasquirt Extra Code will take a MAF feedback loop in place of a MAP signal. It's compatible.

Hey, guess what? It's not exempt! Nothing has been 'exempt" from anything but the biennial smog test, compliance is still required for emissions. But the rolling 30 year law hasn't been active for some time, repealed at least a year ago in lieu of the new regulations. And if it was still in effect, the 77 would have rolled off the testing requirements as of Jan 1, 2006, not 2007. This January, if the 30 year rolling was still in effect in CA would have meant the 78's would have rolled off the testing. As it sits, testing is dropped for vehicles manufactured prior to 1976. That means 1975 and earlier. And that's frozen. They want ALL vehicles with a catalyst to test as long as they are on the road. The only exemption you will recieve on a vehicle newer than 1975 is if the vehicle is 35 Years Old and you have collector car insurance on it---in that case you are exempted from the VISUAL COMPLIANCE requirement of the SMOG Test Program, but you will STILL have to pass the Tailpipe Emissions Requirement for the year (as put forward by the state). Truthfully if it doesn't pass a sniffer test, something is seriously wrong, but I shall resist the urge to digress...

For California, that is a "market price". There is an outstanding place up in downtown LA, but for the price difference the trip may not be worth it.

FYI, there are more than a few MS units that have run in 'stealth mode' and successfully passed California Smog Check...TWICE! (Been running that long? Yeah, they have!) Key is disguising the system so it doesn't raise suspicion---meaning you still have an AFM (gutless) hanging there, as well as a stock looking (or reused) stock wiring harness. It's illegal, but civil disobedience on this point IMO is worth the effort! What comes out the tailpipe should be the ONLY criteria for pass/fail. How you get there is none of the government's business!

in our case, we offset ground the crankshaft to DECREASE the stroke, because we had to bore rust out of the cyulinders. So to keep the displacement at 1998cc's like stock, we had to destroke to make up for the displacement increase boring the block .020 gave us! But normally, you will offset grind the journals to increase displacement.

One thing? It goes 173.325mph, as verified by SCTA...

Maybe my L20ET manifold is also different, I will have to check it, the thing is lumped up on a shelf in the shed... I never had any issues swapping my manifold for the US Spec unit, as I kept the same JDM downpipe (Aftermarket Trust/Greddy Piece) and exhaust, and nothing moved relative to the engine/transmission mounting flange (which is where the downpipe split stopped and the exhaust system began...)

U-&-Me, both! LOL

Excel.......lent!

I'm in So Cal. There is an Ingersoll-Rand Air Center in Dallas, and they should have a load of little gadgets for draining condensate on demand. Usually Steam Traps work well as float-style drains (Condensate Drains) but unless you have access to them cheap, they can be spendy. Most of the Robodrains and Drainalls are more geared toward bigger stuff (eliminatating gallons per hour, instead of ounces!) but a good alternative is to run the smaller piping to a "T", and then getting the most radical bell-reducer you can (1/8 to 2" comes to mind...) and making a 'bulge' under your drain line, you can then use a 2" close nipple or whatever to construct a 'reservoir' to hold that condensate till you get around to draining it. Winter is not when you will have the condensate problem, ambient humidity is lower then anyway. It's the summer when you have hot air and even low relative humidity----hot air holds more moisture than cold air! And of course if you were in Houston.... Good to see you got it dialed in.

Blue and Pink foam are USUALLY "Polyurethane", and will not dissolve when POLYESTER RESIN is applied over them. For the white "STYROFOAM" stuff, it will be dissolved when hit with POLYESTER RESIN, so you either have to paint it with latex house paint (or other sealant barrier) or use EPOXY RESIN in the layup so it won't dissolve. The key is POLYURETHANE is universally compatible with most resins used today for FRP layup. This is the same stuff you get in most "SPRAY FOAM" cans at Home depot as well. If you are free-forming something using that foam and then cutting it down works well, and the foam is impervious to the Polyester Resin in the cheaper FRP Kits. I originally constructed my entire lower G-Nose Air Dam out of that spray foam, as there was no other Polyurethane Foam source locally...

I've an old 6" Atlas Model 109...they made allllll sorts of neat attachments for those. Grinding holders for the tool post, milling adapters, etc. You may want to go on E-Bay to get some of the manuals for those attachments---they are pretty easy to fab up. I have even seen people use angle iron attachments for the toolpost and hose clamps to hold 4" Electric Angle Grinders so they can cut hardened axles to different lengths. Now you got the tool, you will find it makes it easier to make the adapters to use it for different things! One of the first projects I did on my Atlas was turn off a full set of replacement bushings so whenever they do wear to the point of needing replacement... Now I sit in wait of my buddy Pete wanting to clean up his storage unit and sell off that 12" Atlas (Clausing) lathe. I almost bought it when the retired, but he decided against selling at the last minute---the guy has every attachment known to man from the original tool catalog for that thing: Milling Attachment, Grinding Attachment, and stuff I've never even heard of before. All still in the original boxes in many cases! Just got to stay in touch and wait...

And the discussion went (with Dan Baldwin Chiming in) that in either case (l24 or L28) the 'attainable difference' of rpms was nil, therefore the engine with more displacement will be the more driveable. The discussion also was diverted onto forged versus cast pistons, wherevy the limit was 7000 due to piston limits---then redirected again to a rod and piston speed discussion about how cast pistons would survive to 8K on a long rod short stroke motor because of piston speed... And even at 8K, the bigger displacement engine will have the advantage because of more torque down low. Now Turbo is something altogether different from N/A, as you can alter the torque characteristics radically using forced induction. I'm not feather ruffled, I just didn't see where the comment had any place in the guys post since the engine build was totally different. Harmonics? Some people discuss critical speeds, and in industrial applications the cure to critical speeds is accelerating the engine THROUGH the critical zone as fast as possible, and not hanging at the critical speed. We cammed our Bonneville Engine to come "On Cam" hard at 7K. Meaning we pull hard through the critical of 7500 fairly fast (as we did on the L28 engine as well). We had the engines sitting at 8200+rpms for most of the run. The only time we had anything at 7500 was on our first few runs where we were only going in the 140's. After that we regeared and went faster, at higher rpms.

Until my buddy drove his 73 out form Deleware two years ago, I would have said "No" as well! They will fit, but like stated, leaving the hood on the safety catch will keep anything from hitting or rubbing at all (and helps cooling!) His didn't hit, but I think the filler neck looked odd, so it may have been 'altered' by a previous owner.

Didn't a magazine (I want to say "Turbo") do a test this past year involving Electronic Boost Controllers, and manual units? I remember reading this sometime, and even they were suprised that the Manual controllers were more precise and less prone to creep at a given setting. They thought the complexity of the gain and 'fuzzy logic' in the newere generation of controllers would make them far superior to the old manual poppet-style manual boost controlling valves, and to their suprise they found it wasn't so. I think this is what got me thinking about the choice of controller for my wife's car. To that point, I really hadn't considered a manual controller, and after reading that article, I started thinking "how much did I really use it"--- and came up with the realization that I really only used 2 settings for the most part. Until I really thought about it, or had it called to my attention by the article, I'd have gone out and bought the newer-generation electronic controller thinking like they did. It also came into my head about the Bonneville Turbo Car, and launching at 15 or 20 psi till the speed was up, and then flipping a single switch at mile 2 to "get it on" for the rest of the course at full boost. Seemed like less hassle than anything else when going that fast. That entered into my consideration as well, to be honest. I'm thinking about buying the Turbo XS for the wife's car, just to "field test" it before going with it on the B-Car.

Look on their website. The stuff I got was at one of the SAE presentations they did at their SoCal R&D facility. I believe there were links given in those brochures, but damned if I bookmarked any of them...

Interesting.... Those both appear to be Nissan Manifolds as well... I would probably use the one with more spacking from the front of the engine, as if you are converting an N/A manifold, you have to relocate the PCV valve, and with the turbo further back this may not be necessary. I think being both Nissan Manifolds, either will flow fine for your application. Ported Stock Nissan got JeffP to 415HP to the rear wheels...

The unloader switch, if linked via tubing to the electrical switch on the tank is a schraeder valve to blow down the air line between the head discharge valve on the HP section of the compressor to the check valve. This allows the compressor to start up unloaded. The automatic compressor drains work on a cycle theory. It waits for the differential of pressures between full load and cut in pressure to toggle internal parts that will blow down the condensate in the bottom of the tank everytime the compressor cycles. If you are in a humid area, they will generally NOT clear the tank completely. Thye also have a real problem with small bits of debris clogging the valve mechanisim and hanging open causing an persistent air leak and excessive compressor run time. I do not like them, nor will I recomend them to any customers. I prefer a float-actuated condensate drain that allows condensation to accumulate OUTSIDE the receiver, instead of on the bottom of the tank. Any leak will cause a problem, fix them all. If the valve is hung, you should hear it. Make sure your gauge is reading correctly, as well. I hope you plumbed the drain off the bottom of your compressor with an isolation valve so you can shut it off, and manually drain the tank. If you did, it should be a simple matter of closing that valve to eliminate teh blowdown valve from the system. If your compressor is stationary, you may consider running a length of piping to the side of the tank where you don't have to crawl under anything in order to access the drains. This piping, if I were installing it, would be stainless steel, so it won't corrode. Brass is an option, but I don't like it as finding pressure-rated brass can be a problem sometimes. Good Luck! Where in Texas are you?