Tony D

starting with the 260Z there is a plastic inner fender that is attached and has some supports on the fender inner surface. Other than that, dimensionally and all the bolt holes are identical. Just the earlier fenders don't have the provision for stabilising the outer edge of that plastic inner liner (keeps road spray off the back of the headlight bucket and philipps headed screws...)

PMC routinely posts up his 'spinny cranks' on FB when he's doing a build. This thread comes up frequently as a chuckle about the argument that a crankshaft couldn't spin freely with the fingers alone...

The trick is no block boring---thick cylinders with a filled block that keeps everything stable... Make your power on flow and rpms, the stock L28 wouldn't usually use a big turbine but the RPM's will need the flow from the bigger turbo to maintain the lower boost power. I mean a 3.5 is only 25% larger than a 2.8 so that's nothing that boost can't achieve... a 1 bar boost should give you the performance of a 5.6 out of a 2.8 revving to the same rpm...twist it tighter and make more power! If you got the FLOW. That's what the head provides, and the proof of concept of how the car runs on 10:1 CR is a GREAT indication of how the turbo car would run off-boost as for a Honda/PentRoof design 10:1 CR is relatively conservative when it comes to turbocharging compression ratio! If nothing else you get the torque of an L28 with 10:1 CR to drive around below boost threshold. But not needing a lot of 'boost' to massflow through a 350cfm port you end up with a lot of air and fuel in the combustion chamber, mowhahahaha!

Dealing with centrifugal air compressors daily, the general rule of thumb is you can not got too big. What everybody is missing here is HOW the gauze filters work! The bigger the filter, the slower the air passes through the media, the slower the air passes through the media, the more efficient it becomed in recovering and filtering out micronic and sub-micronic particulates... As most will know or argue the K&N Mesh filters do NOT clean the air as well as a pleated paper OEM unit does, BUT if the filter sizing is increased appropriately then they WILL start recovering to an OEM absolute standard. Sure, pumping losses are part of it... but in the end, the bigger the filter the better the filtration recovery you will get. This goes for whatever media you choose. We used to run Oldsmobile 455 filter housings, with elements double-stacked up on the roof of "Mud Buggies" that we ran throug the northwoods of michigan. We NEVER had ring and cylinder problems like the guys using cone filters on top of their carbs, or even guys with cone filters remotely mounted up high like ours. Those Olds filters were well constructed AC-Delco Parts, and could be loaded filled with mud and sticks and STILL breath fine with our little 1600cc beetle engines. That taught me long ago, fit the biggest filter you can into wherever you can, because you never know what's going to get sucked up inside there!

Yes, the Turbo world will be interesting. All depends on how easily JeffP's SOHC build goes. Got over $4K into making a stiff rigid block and really can't see myself cashing in $30K for an L-Series Bullet Billet Block to be super rigid and stiff enough not to twist around like Pete talks about... Actually in the conceptual stage a high flow, high rpm turbo application was EXACTLY what this head was envisioned to be employed upon. Something that didn't NEED 15psi plus to make decent horsepower... A GT42 on this thing with a smaller than you might think hotside A/R coupled with variable intake valve timing might really be surprising to a lot of people.

I never got the transition correct using the Cartech Style non-diffused plenum. Always had a transitional lean spot and was not up for modulator rings so went EFI (HKS ITB's) Max Power and WOT was comparable between Cartech Plenum, and the HKS T-1...but the refined drivability of the HKS spoiled me.

I recently was back in the states rejuvenating a 66 T-Bird with an FI-Tech EFI conversion. It's like Atomic EFI, one of those with the computer and everything in the four barrel body. I was VERY impressed at the build quality and utility of their 'Command Center 2' fuel surge tank. It's got gauges, nice fittings, submerged fuel pump, and was really easy to put into place. For all the hassle of making up a dumb tank that is just a swirl pot, this one has a pump that will support 600 hp and a matched pump for the back of the car to push the fuel up to it from a carbed tank...quiet quiet quiet too! it's at Jegs and Summit, around $395. The difference in this thing is that it LOOKS like it's supposed to be under the hood. In the T-Bird it looked like a piece of A/C Gear. They have a dual-pump surge tank, and a regular surge tank ($299) which also have a nice, finished OEM Look to them. The return fitting is absolutely genius, being an aluminum threaded bung with a crush sleeve, drill a hole in your tank, slip the sealing washer in place, tighten the bolt and it pulls up the bottom of the fitting tight against your tank (or fuel filler neck...) tightly similar to how a pop-rivet or nutzert works, remove the bolt once tight, and screw in your AN fitting! Easy as falling over! https://fitechefi.com/products/40004/

I recently got four boxes in the mail from Rick...after 10 years he finally got back the last of my SU Body Samples to me! Trust me when I say, Rick Patton can supply an adapter for ANY Datsun SU from 65 through 78! I know, I sent him a pair of each to make samples from...this will also apply to Isuzu, Toyota, and many other Japanese cars that used Hitachi-Produced SU's during that timeframe. Yes, you could put these on a roadster, he has the patterns to do it! One incident of my hoarde being used for the betterment of the rest of Datsun-dom!

VINs are not necessarily sequential in the first year of production, there were times where chassis were put back on the line after 'sitting on the side' for whatever reason was repaired and then went forward with production and completion. I had a car in Japan, S30-110661 which was an early car (No Center Console, Blanked radio and Clock, No Chrome Trim Window rubbers, 240 Dash, Tail Lights, with 100L Fuel Tank Option only offered in the early models) It's the only one that late I have ever found, most are 260-Pattern Chassis starting at S30-108XXX, and this jibes with the official production records maintained by Nissan as well. THAT is a quandary, much more so than an early number having a later production date. A later VIN having earlier characteristics smacks of 'special build'...

You index the cam lobes for a six cylinder firing sequence, and use the Honda Profile. The CC of the cylinder is similar and it will work reasonably well out of the gate. The Rod-Stroke and piston position should come into a proper lobe design, but I forecast that the Hondas will be close enough on an 89mm bore due to strokes being almost identical that they will work without any major modification (like I've mentioned before, there was 500 hours a year on transpacific flights in Coach that I had considering a LOT of variables before deciding on the K20 as the example to emulate!) These are symetric profiles in many cases. If you get radical with some of the assymetric cam profiles available for Hondas out there, all you need to do is specify the cam be ground for 'reverse rotation' as these cams actually spin opposite of the way they spin in the Honda application. Not an issue on symetric bumplobes, but it does matter on the assymetric stuff. Once on the cam grinding machine, they index for a six cylinder with the cam profile blanks indexed...and now I'm talking out my arse due to age because I'm almost betting the old tracer profile grinders used back in the 70's and 80's are not used in the USA at these new high production shops anymore, and they have CNC lobe profiles they simply specify and then grind on a six cylinder firing order cam blank... no more metal profiles clamped in a tracer profile slot on the grinder...

I am EXTREMELY happy that someone has availed of the CNC porting experience that is out there on the K20 Head, this is EXACTLY as intentioned! The only thing remaining is for Derek to ship him a kit of Red and Blue colored expanding silicone foam to do the intake and exhaust ports once ported so he can scan them and incorporate them as a "Race Ported' option with accompanying flow expectations... You can do this with the sand print technology. This pleases me greatly.

Run your 8:1 compression. Spend your money on a proper porting and cam, as well as a properly matched turbocharger to make that power at as low a boost pressure as possible and you will be very happy with the results (though you may be revving to 6,500~6,700 due to how it pulls. This is a case where a cam that supposedly peaks at 7,500 or closer to 8,000 will pay big dividends because of it's high lift breathing down low. It is entirely possible to make 350hp at 8psi in an L28 without boring or stroking. Or an intercooler...but it's good insurance... With an RPM cap of ony 6,000-7.000 there is no reason to run bigger than a 0.63 (stock) turbine side A/R. Preserve your boost onset as low as possible, the torque you will be rewarded with will be prodigious. There will be no 'lag' so to speak but expect 4-5 mpg on-track. Horsepower costs fuel, period. This goes for a Geo Metro. Yes, you can get 5 mpg in a Geo Metro if you are using all it's horsepower, the ratios of air to fuel don't change, the Z will just be going much faster than the Geo getting the same mileage...LOL

OSG TC24B1 head is similar to the KA24 Stock, BTW. With porting it will go to 320 cfm per PMC in Australia. Datsunworks head is 290 or so rought cast, and around 320 after an 80-Grit flapper wheels cleanup of the as-cast ports.

News Flash: "TimZ and Chickenman possessed/channeling TonyD on HybridZ..." My "ignore" button worked well... I had no clue what you guys were ranting about until I noticed the "You've chosen to ignore content by NewZed. Options" after the fact... Imagine that, the day TonyD was not the ranting guy. Imagine that!

This is an inside joke between Peter McDonnell and me as well , "Just slap a K-Series Honda head on there, it's a bolt on deal." As to a comment above about 'waiting for public release'--buck up the money, it's IN public release! First production PALLET of heads has already been done! The ENTIRE premise of using the printed sand cores was that people can specify minor changes to tailor to their build and get a head close AS-CAST rather than spending thousands of dollars having someone port a one-off head. It took Peter 4 1/2 hours PER intake port to get them flowing at the rate of what this head flows after an 80-Grit flapper wheel setup. Originally the main thing conceptualized as changing was the port configuration. This size is perfect for a mild 3.5, but may be large for 3.0...and turbos may need something else. There was a hope that we could get these out to various CNC suppliers, and then do close replication of the ports as-cast so extra work was not necessary. The goal being that the water side wall thickness was maintained in ALL configurations so ALL heads could be ported to 'Ültimate Spec' if the owner desired. When you consider the cost of new rocker arms now running over $100 each, the cost for the entire valve train from a Honda Parts Department is cost competitive. The only cost you really have in using this head over a pro built L-Head is the casting, cams, and one timing set! For what you get in terms of flow increases...that price is not really objectionable. Plus, compared to the other DOHC Option...your choice of cams both symetrical and asymetric is unlimited due to proper cam and rocker geometry...with the other guys, you run what you got and that's it. No increases!

I don't ask. I can't afford it. I do it anyway, I'm old...what are they going to do repossess my ashen remains from the Neptune Society and resell them packaged in old Cremora bottles to recover my debts?

I was being polite, my first thought was to post "If you are asking, then you can't afford it!"

$20,000~30,000...

Hell this was here under "how to replace a head gasket" in fact... "Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly!"

Oh, this just CRIES OUT for this answer:

Oh, and just to point it out, I believe it was RHD Japan that was selling the Sangyo Kiki EFI set complete for like 1800 yen equivalents...whatever size you wanted, 40, 45, 47, or ??? Brandy new, in the box complete including TPS...all you needed was cheap GM MAT, MAP, and CLT sensors for the Microsquirt and you were complete...

ITBs with little use are up on ebay all the time in the $1500-2000 range. Which happens to be about what triples sell for when they are decent. ITB's don't need the attention carbs do, you have to work very, VERY hard to get a bad set of ITB's. It is VERY EASY to get a bad set of carbs that ends in a money pit. Sensors, a pfennings, and an ECU to run them is $475 from DIY Autotune look up "Microsquirt" they work JUST FINE! Just to screw with your head, fact of the matter was I bought a 76 with an L28, header, and triple DCOE 40's on it. Made ALL the right noises, brutally accelerated and made a whopping 85 horsepower to the rear wheels. Replaced them with a stock EFI setup that was pulled off another 76 that had 176,000 miles on it. Ran the full intake ducting, including the silencer the only change being a K&N Filter Element as the CAI that I originally used hissed loudly and generally made too much noise. I removed the header, and installed the stock 76's cast iron manifold using an MSA downpipe to convert from the iron manifold to the MSA Exhaust that was on it. I ADDED another muffler under the car by the transmission to quiet it down further. With the EFI on it, felt kind of doggy. But it did whip the dyno to 146 rwhp, and consistently runs the 1/4 mile in 15.30-15.50 seconds. All that quiet is deceptive. So no, you won't automatically make more horsepower with triple webers, and chances are if you simply bolt them on to the car like the previous owner did with my set, you WILL lose copious gobs of horsepower! Might sound good...but that is why we say the Butt-Dyno is a worthless evaluation of ANY performance addition.

One might say it's got a better engine in it now that what any GTR ever had! Isn't is nice how the intake ports just happen to line up with the factory S20 Aircleaner? Must be blind dumb luck...right? LOL I REALLY like that valve cover...

How is anything on that dyno chart 'killing' anything? It's above the L490 at every point of the curve.

Are there aftermarket ECU's and Injectors currently available for DI applications? This is barely being touched in the OEM market at this time, do you have access to these required parts, and if so could you provide a link? Conversion is not that difficult if parts are available.