Mudge

No comparison, since there are turbo parts out there and they plug right in. Intercooling, not a problem. On a blown setup, your going to fab up everything yourself, and being a pioneer usually is more expensive.

For less than $1400 you can easily get an FI engine and transmission with it, or a carb engine if you like old-tek. If the engine is frozen, then its only worth as much as a block IMO, and blocks are given away free often enough just to get them out of people's hair.

On an NA car, it is not going to make you any new power, other than increased engine management. Heads and cam, along with cubes make power. Swap the cam, raise the powerband, and you have some power when tuned. With a turbo you can turn up the boost, or do similar things that you do on an NA car, cam/headwork etc More fuel wont make power in other words, it supports it.

Yep, Shelby S1.

I doubt it, the diamonds are very expensive. If someone was given a fake, they'd know it, and for that price there would be trouble. They remove the carbon from the sample, and I imagine compress it and heat it, the old fashioned way.

Those "wires" are about paperclip thickness, strong paperclip that is. From there crossing each of them, there are the real "sensors." A MAF is just a heater circuit, and once heated it takes a certain amount of air to cool it a certain amount, and that is how they do thier calculations to estimate airflow, instead of speed density where MAP and I think TPS were used together, or maybe it was MAP and intake air temp (IAT). The issue with running a MAF on a blown/turbo car, is a MAF can only read so much airflow. With a 2-3 bar MAP you are just about limitless. There are tricks to work around this, but tricks can be risky instead of having an actual reading to go with.

E31 doesn't s upport EFI so far as I know, I'd yank the whole top end. This way you get a turbo cam as well. From there I imagine you may play with fuel pressure to avoid running stank rich on little cubes.

Yep, he explains on the site that they sucked off something like 3 back windows that season before the accident. In other words something was wrong from the start on the design of that car, too bad I dont retain anything eh?

I heard about this on Stern, haunted diamonds anyone?

Sweet, if you need body panels, you know who to hit

With cast everything, I dont take it that is a strong engine, so you'd be severely limited on boost use. However I'm sure a mild 450#/HP setup might last awhile on an engine like that, maybe even 500HP/TQ, maybe. I still dont like carbs, I'd rather go EFI, but if you are comfotrable with carbs then maybe that is the direction you should take.

The aftermarket units play with "calibration" and I dont generally like them, nor do they generally perform. If the ends of the MAF are larger then maybe thats an excuse to get it, otherwise I prefer to do my tuning elsewhere. Many people in fact lose performance from the aftermarket MAF. Genral tips, if your MAF comes with a plenum, leave it, if it comes with a screen, leave it. I worked mine over and made tuning a bit of a hell for me, its an example of "free mods" gone too far. So if you can find a good junkyard unit and the MAF ends aren't too different in size I wouldn't sweat it, stock MAFs on the Fbody that people think sometimes as "small" have gone into the 9s, bone stock, screen and all. I dont know the Stang MAF end size, but people sometimes believe there is a restriction where there isn't one. If all you can find is brand new, and the Granatelli is cheaper, then I guess I'd go that route, begrudgingly. I'd rather hit a yard or eBay though. Good luck

Cone racing as in AutoX? Its a great teacher, but definately not as fun as RR IMO. Second gear, and you run for 1-2 minutes, very close times obviously, but its just not the same. I prefer a longer session on a 2-3 mile track. I'm sure NASCAR is a wild ride, doing 190 in anything is probably pretty "wild" in a corner, but if I had my preference I'd be in something different. F1 would be the ultimate rush, 1300 pounds, 2-4g lateral depending on track setup, 850 HP. Hold onto your manties!

Thats another thing, drag breaks stuff. When you start getting 11s or faster it gets fun, at least to me, BUT ultimately its not THAT fun and I could have that feeling on the street. I understand wanting to get that extra .02 out of your reaction time and etc, but I dont care about it. I'd rather throw my ass in a corner 130 MPH sideways and hang on for dear life. Oval track I consider a snooze too but if your there for all out speed, that or open road racing is the way to do it. Left turn, left turn, left turn, left turn, left turn....... On the way home yesterday I was losing the rear slowly in a hard left, twice, and this car is so damn predictable you can pull it right back with no effort. This car is so neutral it is just "the sh_t." Best "s-box" car I've ever owned Interstates are great for speed too, I've never been over 149 even though my car (Z28) was totally stable, I just would not prefer to have a supprise happen at speeds like that. I dont hit I5 often enough to really push it, and the car isn't making that kind of HP anymore anyway, so 155 would be my limit instead of maybe 185-190 or so like before. Moreover if I got cought at a speed like that I'd be in for a world of hurt, for a period of years, which just isn't worth it. One of these days I'll hit Silver State (Hwy 318) and see how much fun that may be.

If you get a running donor you can probably even use the fuel pump, although an upgrade and an adjustable regulator would be nice.

My suspensions never, evern hook, because I dont drag. But if you can't hookup at all, then you have a problem. Trans Am cars will go sideways in third gear, they dont stay straight till about 4th. I have video of a Trans Am Vette doing a 13.x @ 125, he rolls off the line like a shopping car, then spins, then just rolls for a bit, accelerates slowly to stay on the pavement, kicks it sideways in second and third and then at the veeeeeery end shifting to 4th he is finally staying straight to cross the line. I have a buddy in GA who used to race bikes, and he isn't really into the drag thing either. Once in awhile its ok, but compared to road racing it bores the snot out of me, the most unsophisticated, and shortest kind of race you could have, bah. I went to Sac Raceway here one saturday to try and get some Test and Tune time, I got to run twice, in 5 hours, for $40, what an f'ing waste. I got to watch guys that got there after I did, run 3 times before I got my first run, that was also spectactular. If you run higher than 9 seconds your a nobody, and you just get the shaft.

This says 260 got R180 http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/6212/diffswap/diffswap.htm

When you corner weight a car you generally want to shoot for LF+RR=RF+LR, this way your braking is predictable. You also might generally shoot for 50/50 front to rear, and left to right, however some people may prefer a slight balance otherwise. Probably most commonly going for more rear weight in certain cars, or whatever. Also using some lead shot or cement bags to simulate driver weight is helpfull, people do this for alignments as well. I prefer a pretty neutral car right now because its easier to drive a neutral car, until you get some nice experience points behind your belt. Then people start playing with braking bias as well, for me right now I just want to tone the rear brakes down! You'll find plenty of argument with that setup. I dont know of any car, anywhere, that prefers to have a set of the same springs on all four corners. I have heard of however, 450# on a Z car, all four corners, interesting and extremely stiff. This was discussed on this site before (when I first came here), as being bad because all corners oscillate at the same frequency and the car will not want to stop oscillation, this may also cause the car to want to exit the pavement in a vertical fashion, and cause massive loss of stick because of this. If your going to run 250s on front how about 300-325 in rear?

I was at a track day with a Lightning, I was watching him take one corner and spin the tires to get some oversteer, nice.

Along with WD40 in the cylinders, I'd take off the valve cover and drop some oil on the chain/gears and over the cam as well. I'm going to be doing something similar, to a car thats sat for a handfull of years, good luck to us both!

I agree on the gear thing, that is crazy. I have a strong disliking for gears that nuts on a small OD tire regardless, I just love doing 3400-3800RPM on the freeway in OD Why extrude hone? Why not get a real port job done? Extrude honing is for jobs that are pretty much impossible to get a tool into, and for the most part it is a GIMMICK that will provide little to no result, especially when you can get a die grinder in there with no problems at all.

Looks very nice! I notice the ports look round, one thing I've wondered since most of us are going to be 'stuck' with rectangular exaust ports, how does that work out? How big are the tubes that you used? They do not obstruct the exaust port right? On the #1 and #6 primaries, are those for hooking onto something for stability/strength?

The only true CPS is on the OBD II cars, 1996 and 1997. These have a different timing cover to make room for the CPS. These cars also have missfire detect, OBD I cars 1992-95 Vette, 93-95 Fbody dont. We have to accept that the LT1 was a short term, interim engine. It lasted for but a handfull of years, it was not going to be some perfect project. It had a few improvements over the L98 (95 optispark setup is fine), but it was only a temporary thing, and thats just the breaks.

Yes, the bolt spacing for the studs on the rear of the R180/200 are not the same. Did you have to drill holes for the R200 to fit in the moustache bar? The studs should be closer together on the R180, and if it was exactly the same as on your R180 they gave you the wrong one. R200 bar is also beefier. Comparison on this page: http://www.geocities.com/madmanadam/Z-car/r200swap.html

Drive the car, enjoy it, and find a donor car or something. L28ET is probably going to cost you less and be less hassle (for sure on that one), since it "plugs right in." If you are honestly going to pay someone to do the whole thing, I think your looking at big dollars. Why not make it a project and beg for help? I could probably try to help, I am doing this soon myself, I have a donor car and will be working on that for awhile.