Poundz9oh9

Take it down to Sellers off of McPherson Chruch Rd. It's on the right hand side just past Raeford heading away from post. He's the one that did my hood then painted the whole front clip, did a good job and his prices are reasonable.. And BTW, there are more than Maaco's in the area, you just have to know where to look.

I got $1,500 cash for mine

man..... I wish I had that much spare time to work on my actual Z, let alone play with toys. VERY Cool work though!!!!

I traded my 03 Blazer Xtreme for an 06 Cobalt SS/SC. WOW, I was a little surprised at how quiet and how well built it SEEMS. We'll see over time how it holds up though. It felt GREAT to drive a car again, and it's pretty quick for what it is! Think it needs more Stage II though!! Not bad for a DD.

Me says Big Phil still has a car to work on and should probably put the camera down, and back away slowly!!

Hey guys, I'm getting ready to trade my truck in and I'm gonna go soooo upside down on it it's rediculous. I was just wondering if there were any GM employees that could hook a HybridZ brother up with a GMS #???? It would GREATLY be appreciated and I might have some Z parts I could give up for it HELP!!!

Well, I think changing the rubber and adjusting the rubber will help, but the issue is with the lock mechanism itself (just re-read original complaint). You can try changing the little rubber "gasket" that sits underneath the lock. Good luck on finding a fresh one though. Maybe you can find a correct size grommet (and modify if necessary) the tighten the lock up.

I understand your frustration. I think the main points have already been addressed. Rubber seals, would be the most effective imho, but another thing to think about would be some sound deadening material. Or go to an extreme and take the lock out, rig a latch from the insided and fill the hole Or an answer you probably don't wanna hear.......just turn the bass level down. It might not be the way you like to listen to it but it'll probably help you problem.

C'mon guys, no need to be snooty..... To each his own, that's what this sites all about. Hey, I'm all for the bass too...... Just not in the Z Gold star goes to (Goldfish) for actually trying to help.

Welcome

Are you running the JTR recommended Caprice style housing?

I'm a little unclear as to why you need to change the housing....???? I went through the same thing when I was in the planning phases of my swap with the 700R4. I too found a calculator on a transmission website that told me the gears that I needed. I swapped out the drive, and driven gear and my speedo was pretty close to being dead nuts. I purchased the gears through the same site that had the calculator. There was like a $20 minimum purchase though. So, I just bought a couple gaskets and seals as well. edit: This stuff might help http://www.bgsoflex.com/speedo1.html http://www.transmissioncenter.net/speedometer_calibration_______va.htm#700r4

Hmmmmmmm, wonder where THAT idea came from. Well, at least I know I'm contributing something here !!!

Hey Doc, Any relation???

well, the main thing that I didn't like is that, that dust seal is actually riding on the front of the yoke. But, I don't really want to spend the money on shortening the driveshaft if I don't have to. I've already done it once when I put the old tranny in.

No, this was taken with all four wheels off of the ground. What do you think, maybe a 1/2" shorter or so?

OK, I got everything bolted up with the T56. I just put the old driveshaft from the 700R4 in and this is what it looks like. Do you guys think it'll be ok? Or should I shorten it? The rubber seal on the T56 obviously is touching the front of the yoke. It still has a little room to move. Maybe 1/4" - 1/2". It's basically JUST enough room to let the driveshaft in and out when bolting it up to the rear end. Opinions???

Pretty clever listing if it's not an LSD ehh?

ok, now I'm nervous. I think I'm gonna pull my bid. 250 is a little much for uncertainty when in the end I could end up with another open R200

I bid on it, I figured what the hell. If it is what it seems, I might be able to pick a spare up cheap. Besides, it's only like a 4 hour drive to where it's at anyway. It could be a great score if it is in fact an LSD. Maybe, I'll see if I can go check it out this weekend and get some info posted.

Yeah, I saw that too Joel. It was after I posted and I just got back .... Wooo hooo ...!!! Now, about getting the flange off.......

Need some Uber quick help!!!! It's crunch time and the only thing holding me up from gettting the car back on the road is the front flange bolt on my R200. I cannot break that sucker loose. I removed the flange from a spare diff. I had laying around without a problem, but the one on the LSD...... now that's a different story. Am, I missing something? I soaked it in liquid wrench, beat on a 1/2" drive long handled breaker bar. I guess my next step would be what??? An impact wrench? I tried on that sucker for amost an hour last night and had to give up..... Any suggestions???

The last pic to me looks like the tower ends of an MSA strut tower brace. Of course it looks that the center/suppport bar is missing though.