caperix

I don't know of anyone who has even looked into the abs controller code, but most of the newer units are flash programmable. As there are only a few manufacturers of abs/stability control systems most cars have the same systems. So if you can collect the program files for number of different vehicles using the same hardware and compare them much like engine ecu tuning you may be able to tune your own abs.

For the rear of my car I am thinking about doing a ttt stub axle eliminating setup with the factory long nose r200. With this setup I will need to change out the stub axles to ones that will fit the axles I go with. There are a number of options with the correct spline count, early j30, open 240sx & na z32. I can not find any length comparison though to see how they will fit the long nose case. I plan on running a m factory limited slip the the longer stub for the vlsd should not be needed. Additionally does anyone know if Nissan used the same CV shaft spline count on all cv's? They were made with a 3x3 a 5 bolt & a 6 bolt mounting pattern at the stub, but I do no know if the shaft changed.

Thanks for that information.

Does the tabco rocker include the section that extends forward? I always thought it was just the outer cover under the door. My rocker does have a few small holes so if it includes the front section it would be the way to go. The good thing about having a hole is that I can get a look at the inner rocker & it looks to be in good shape.

I pulled the right front fender off my 260z to repair a rust hole in the battery box area. When I did I found additional rust in the section of the rocker extension where the fender mounts. I figure I am going to have to fabricate a patch for this area and am looking for ideas and advise on matching the shape & making sure the nut inserts are correctly located.

If resale is what you are after its best to keep the factory engine in place. The aluminum ls engines can be hard to find and expensive due to demand, they are good, light engines. Even an iron head early small block in the jtr mounting position has better weight distribution than the factory engine so the weight savings is not a huge deal. The jags that run manual is the best place to start for information, even if some of it is dated at this point. It even has diagrams for the mounts if you want to make your own. The only thing I do not like about their setup is the transmission mount.

After startup hid's have lower power consumption than halogens. Full led assembly replacements will give you better visibility & be dot legal vs a h4 conversion. A good bixenon projector will give similar visibility to a good led headlight, but the led will be easier to install in the factory bucket.

Jeeps have made it easier to find a 7 inch dot legal led headlight. I'm not sure how that hid kit does high/low, I would guess it does not focus light very well. Many states have banned hid conversions due to the poor light focusing unless they are in a properly designed housing.

Looks good, it looks like your engine is already together so it may be something for latter, Lang racing offers a widening service for the rod bearings that is supposed to eliminate the rod bearings wear these engines experience. Even after 2 recalls most cars run hard still wear out the rod bearings around 60k. It should be a nice engine for the lighter e30.

Most throttle bodies have some sort of vacuum fitting on them. If you connect them all together you may be able to run a vacuum booster off it that is what many OEM individual throttle body setups use. If you are running hydraulic power steering, a hydoboost setup could be used.

There are a few people who have put s13/s14 rear subframes in the s30's. I'm sure dimensions are not even close but it may give you an idea of what is involved in putting a subframe in the back of a z. You may just have to cut the chassis off in the back & weld in some square tubing to mount it too.

There are hollow sockets that will let you turn the nut while holding the shaft. I have a Craftsman set that I paid less than $50 for. It also works good for valve adjustments on cars with a screw & jam nut.

Did you use trial & error to find your steering arm angle? I can only find calculations for rear steer setups. I think the longer steering arms will help with ackerman as well. Do you have any advice on making a jig to locate the steering arms when welding?

I'm running a tpi serpentine belt set up on my 260. I have not bolted the hood back on yet, but I don't see any visible interference issues.

The fuel tank subframe looks great. My winter project is to put a Camaro tank in my 260. Do you have any more photos of the install?

Yes I do have the 1/2 inch spacers for the crossmember.

I do have the jtr manual, while it did talk about trimming the driver's mount on the side for set back plate clearance it did not mention the bottom for steering shaft clearance. I am using a small cap HEI so I maybe further back than mentioned in my older edition of the JTR manual, but am still only about half way on the slots in the crossmember, as slotted per JTR manual. I will check through the driveling subforum for angle discussions.

I am having some issues getting the engine positioned in my late 260z using jtr mounts as well. The driver's side mount is rubbing on the steering shaft & won't sit all the way down. The section of the motor mount looks like it can be cut off without affecting strength, I just have not heard of clearance issues in that area. I was also wondering the best way to make sure the motor is in straight? I'm not sure the core support is straight enough to use as a reference as my car has had some front end damage. Finally I am trying to use a cxracing ls1 t56 transmission mount, what kind of drive line angle should I try to achieve? 3 degrees down seam to be the standard. Thanks for any help you can give me.

I agree that the cooling system should be checked. Has the water pump been changed? BMW used a plastic impeller on the water pump that can slip and reduce coolant flow.

I looked at your build as I am looking into different front suspension options. Is the added front track width from your custom control arms or is the s13 just wider? It looks like you reangled the steering arms on the knuckles, how is that holding up, I have always been nervous about welding cast pieces. The only other write up of a s13 swap I found was on zilvia, he used a rhd skyline rack for due to swapping the knuckles to front steer, are you still on the s30 rack? How is bump steer with it. Sorry for the thread jack.

I just wanted to share this in case anyone else makes the same mistake as me. Not all early small blocks are drilled for both starter patterns, preventing use of the 158 tooth flywheel needed for most overdrive manual transmissions. Goodson tool makes a jig to drill the missing hole, here is the link. https://goodson.com/products/sdj-1-starter-drill-jig I was able to do it with a hand drill & keep the hole straight, I think it may also be useful if you ever need to drill a broken starter bolt out of the block.

I agree that Arizona z cars website needs some work. I am leaning towards the techno toy tuning set up. It has the hole for the parking brake so r32 internal parking brakes can be used or you can run 240sx caliper mounted parking brakes. I need to contact them & find out if their struts use the same cartridge as the 280 struts & if they can still be easily sectioned for lowering.

It feels like the factory stub axles & axles would still be a time bomb, especially on a lowered car due to the u joint angles. I worry it would be like running a t5, there are many who have run them into the 10's but at that point they will fail catastrophically. I am thinking a little extra money spent at this point may save me down the road. I would still like some input from anyone running these setups. How are they holding up, what brakes are you running?

Sorry, late 260 so the taller 280 struts & the smaller spline stubs from what I have read. I didn't realize the ttt setup used 240sx parts, though they all look to use the same bolt spacing on the bearing. So I guess you could put the larger bearing on it with a 5 lug conversion.

I am looking at options for stub axle eliminators for the s30 chassis. I a going to be running a mild v8 with a t56 at around 350 to 400 ft\lbs. I have a long nose r200 already installed, I do not see the need in my application for an r230 and the are some affordable helical options so I don't see the need to go to a short nose r200. I would like to run CV axles with stub axle eliminators and am looking for opinions on the options. Arizona z car makes one in their complete suspension kit, not sure if they will sell parts separate or if it will work with brakes other than their own. Techno toy tuning will sell parts separate, their kit is based around a differential swap but should work with the long nose if you leave out the front mount. It looks like it is based around r32tt brakes, not sure if the parking brake drum is retained. Forum member Wilfred was working on a setup using intrepid hubs & a ford 8.8 differential, I think this project has been abandoned & the 8.8 swap looks like more work than needed for my application. Forum member invincibleextremes is working on a setup using mustang hubs and an 8.8 but is not fully completed. Are there any other options I missed? Any opinions on any options?