kiwi303

AFAIK all main battle tanks these days use Auto boxes. I remember seeing a picture of an early M! (with the 105mm gun) rearing up as it took off from a standing start. Those gas turbines can really move those beasts might be harder now with the heavier armour upgrades over the years.

just use the one that has the better crack test/magnaflux/ultrasound/whatever.

Generally, Finned = LSD, that has fins on the back so it's likely to be LSD.

josh817: top hat sleeves?

L20, use the same stock tranny and everything the L20B or the LD20

but unlike hondas, they'll actually perform for an EASY 10/22 mod, just buy a fully worked Volquartson. carbon fibre wrap barrel, set trigger, the works

As per the title, does anyone have a CAD template of a Ford Cleveland small block that can be sent to a workshop to have a crank girdle waterjet or plasma jet cut out?

some FWD VG powered Maxima here in NZ, JDM, not sure if they made it to the US.

I've had a quick dekko round the forums, but ain't found no homies stories of time in da big house... so what's the thread that sparked off this thread?

Nice trophy I bet it's goning to look good on your mantlepiece My cousin is a lead mechanic on one of the Pro Kawasaki MX teams on the US tour, and used to be a pretty good club rider here in NZ, so I know how hard it is to rede a MX bike competitively! you did good there

closed end spanners with a "S" neck

are you in a dairy farm area? check out stainless steel milk lines and dairy shed outfitters can do really groovy welds too

the weak point on the Hilux/4runner drivetrain wasn't th diffs, but the halfshafts from the diffs to the wheels, any proper V8 conversion in a hilux is at risk of breaking the shafts, I know of one guy running a Rover V8 at 215Hp in a 1988 Hilux ute with the standard diff and 34" super swamper tyres who has broken 3 half shafts now.

It's hard to think your cars faster than everyone elses when you have examples like RIPS and his RB30 monster, and others with V12's shoved under, plus that monster dragster Z with it's on R200 motivator poster Add as many examples as you wish Anyone on here that thinks their car is faster than anyone elses would tend to be someone with enough work in the car to deserve to feel like it

any art societies around your area? if you can find a sculpture artist around, they do that sort of making-things-look-good for a living and can probably have both sides identical working just by eye on a first pass than you can with hours of time and effort and a lot of measuring jigs... Might be worth getting the side to side matching done by a pro sculpturist?

I used to, but on dialup it's too pics intensive, so I just sampled it at the end Nice EFI tho when're the commercial copies coming out?

right... I see you have 1 post only, so you are likely not a long term resident reader of these boards, so to clarify, the American 280Z is NOT the australian 280Z... what you may find in AU as a 280Z, is what the yanks call a 280ZX and nothing else. NZ, Aust and Japan markets went straight from the 260Z to the 280ZX without receiving the US market 260Z re-engined with the L28 and renamed the 280Z. As such, you are better refering to the aussie 280Z's as S130's or you may find americans advising you on the basis of S30 model 280Z's which are 260Z's with a larger engine, rather than the later all-new chassis S130 280Z/ZX models Hope this clears up some confusion before it all starts. As to the specifics of your questions, I believe the 280ZX's with autos had R180's and the manuals had R200's, definitive answers can be found in the comprehensive Diffs sticky in the Drivelines subforum. The F54 is a siamesed cylinder block that some like, but the non siamesed actually in some cases had thicker walls and handled boost/boring better... either block will work fine, get them crack tested or magnafluxed and use the one in better condition regardless of the block casting. All S30/S130 N/A 5 speeds were FS5W71B boxes, until the turbo 280ZXT which used a BW T5 box.

I have a 1940 SMLE in .303, it's my everyday bash about gun. I've also got a Paker Hale Safari which is bult on the Mauser 98 action that I use when a little more accuracy is required. I'd agree with the advie above, go to a used gun shop of some osrt, be it the local sporting goods store, the pawn shop, or the local gun show, pick up a good quality older gun and enjoy the higher quality and better reliability. The newest rifle I have is a 1980's ruger 10/22 I inherited when my dad died, my oldest is an 1898 MLM, which was armoury rebarreled in 1903 to a MLE. Old guns are nice guns if you find one in good condition. It's like the datsuns, which would you rather have? A cheap modern ford Ka or a nice old 260z thats been looked after

if the engines free... go for it... I've got a cleveland block and heads and a 302 crank coming, decided 200Hp from a 3.5 rover won't be enough, go for broke on a clevo

your problem is the big imperial manufacturers to your south.

L28E and L20ET use the same injector i believe from my browsings on here, L28E and L28ET use different injectors, so I would say probably not.

the local engineering supply shop the benefits of living in a metric country... imperial stuff is a little more hard to find, but still plenty around

Haven't heard of anyone doing so, but I have a rebored 302C block coming my way and a set of heads from a different seller.

not biodiesel...

unless you can put an engine on an engine dyno, and the exact same engine on a wheel dyno once installed, drive train losses is a wild ass guess.