kiwi303

Thanks That solved it

Back before I dropped off the forum for a while due to SLOW rural internet where I lived in the mountains, the "View New Content" button served to bring up All threads with new posts in them since the last time I signed in. Now it seems to only bring up subscribed threads with new posts since last sign in? How do I set up my settings to restore the "view New Content" to return all threads with new posts since the last time I signed in? I can't see any check boxest or radio button settings in my Control Panel settings?

What I notice is that BTUs per cubic volume of fuel is usually related to the solidity of the fuel chosen given equivalent quality, 1 cubic meter of quality anthracite coal has more BTUs than one cubic meter of methane at 1 atmosphere. By carrying a quantity of fuel in a form closer to solidity and hence denser but of equal fuel value as petrol, they could carry more BTUs which translated to more power for longer than rivals carrying the same volume of normal race fuel. Albeit at a weight penalty which would be overcome by the greater available engine power the extra fuel value allowed. A good use of physics, but one which makes me wonder if the rules at the time for F1 dictated volume limited fuel tanks? It comes down to tactics and rules in the end, carry more fuel and suffer a weight penalty but less fueling stops meaning more track time, or less fuel and less weight for better performance, but traded off against more frequent fueling stops...

84% toluene? Forget spiking your opponents tank with sugar, spike it with Nitric Acid and a detonator then stay well back during the next race!

how hard is it to plump a oil cooler into the fuel line for the dyno day...

Boyd Coddington Billet alloys. 17x7 with 225/50R17 on the front and 245/17ZR17 on the rear. The reason the front is so high is because the 302 Cleveland that will be weighing it down in future is currently sitting in the shed on a few blocks waiting to be built. The tyres are bald freebies from a number of tyre shops around the nearest town, bald and non-legal, but they did fine to size up the tyre fitment and check it all works. Once it's all together and on the road once more I think I'll be going 225/45R17 on the front, a 225/45 would match wall height to a 40/245, 225/50 is a bit taller.

Screwing animals? You sure you aren't Japanese? Glory Quest studios would probably be happy to film you and your animals!

What you put down without unhooking the tyres depends on the tyres. 250Hp with LingLong 225's is mad, 500Hp with sticky DOT street racing tyres is just fine. Tell us what tyres and you'll get a better response.

There was something like that here in NZ for a while, a spectrographic laser shining across the motorway at tailpipe height matched to a camera further up the road that caught the plate as the car went past the laser. Only effective when one car at a time went past so single lane road only or low traffic periods. but the laser beam was read by a sensor on the far side which measured what spectrum bands were being absorbed diffracted by the tailpipe gasses. I don't think it was linked to enforcement, just research.

One day and nearly sold out... that is demand alright!

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/nissan/engines/auction-638659244.htm Search RB30 on Trademe and there are a few... Have to be NZ resident to register/bid on Trademe, but kiwis like me are usually happy to help out car mates overseas by bidding on behalf. Just leaves overseas shipping, given I got quoted $290 to ship a $30 RB20DE head to the states an block isn't going to be cheap. LCL would have to be the way.

740 acres, between me and my brother there are 7 vehicles, 2 fully road legal, soon to be 9 with 3 road legal. On the other hand, my '79 280ZX is soon to be rolling from the hayshed 3Km away down the back of the farm to the implement shed right by the house.

About half a keg should do it. However due to increasing inaccuracy as inebriation increases, you had best order two kegs and park your car out of sight of the street so you don't cop a public indecency charge.

Not done it myself, but theres a NZ owned LA based company that specialises in just that. They'll go and inspect and do a report on US cars for NZ buyers and if the prospective buyer agrees the buyer pays the company and they pay the seller, ship the car to their depot and prep it for export, ship it to NZ, deal with the import paperwork and deliver it to the buyer. They're a subsiduary company of one of NZ's bigger freight companies. www.kiwishipping.co.nz part of www.mainfreight.co.nz I am sure there must be some company that fills the same niche for interstate purchases. Try your google-fu.

I would suspect for the ability to raise and lower the car within a REASONABLE timeframe, just make up two coilover sets, one set up for your performance orientated height so you can have fun driving to shows, track days and just putting your foot down on weekends. Once you arrive at the shows, just jack it all up and swap the coilover sets to your lowered system. Four coilovers and four trolley jacks would fit in the boot as you drive to and from the shows, and for the amount of driving done at shows, the camber change of dropping the car won't have that much effect on your tyre wear or safety.

It's what the forum was originally established for, by a set of engineering types fleeing from the "Form before Function" neons and decals hellaflush crowd on the existing forums who wanted to establish a hardcore engineering and modification "Function defines Form" forums dedicated to helping extract USEFUL performance orientated modifications. There are reasons for lowering cars for aerodynamic and handling reasons, those are discussed on this forum heavily, lowering just for looks with no handling improvements in mind are anathema to the origins of the forum. While such is occasionally discussed, the most common response is as you got, go find a Form obsessed forum and leave this Function obsessed forum be.

1) WOF, Warrant of Fitness. As you guessed, yes it's a safety test, checks the car against a list of what the regulations say should be there to make it safe for the roads. All lights working, brakes work, rust is not threatening to cause the car to break in half hitting a pothole and cause a pileup on the road, legal tread depth on the tyres... lots of stuff like that. VTNZ is Vehicle Testing NZ, Government run testing centres that take a hard line yes/no view of any doubtful stuff. Local garages and private testers tend to look at whether the rust is affecting anything structural, or if it is just cosmetic, VTNZ just sees rust and fails you. No emmissions, no SMOG or CARB testing in NZ, only a visible check, if a cop sees you belching out clouds as you drive past you get ticketed, but there're no sniffer tests as part of WOFing. 2) 750Km is not a long way to hitchhike. that is only within the same island, It's no unknown for people to hitchhike the length of both islands and back. Tourists do the holiday thing with no car, just their thumb out on the roadside. No biggie. I guess we must be safer that over there if you worry about a mere 750Km

Bought a new car to get too and from job interviews in, so I don't need to keep running off in the farm van. Had to hitch hike south to nearly the far end of the island for it, drivign home had 750Km on the tripmeter when I arrived back home. Started at 8:30 in the morning with my thumb out on the side of the road, by 7 hours later I was only 60Km away. At that point a truckie picked me up and played pass the parcel, handing me over at the depot to another truckie heading further south who later handed me on to another truckie. Ended up in Dunedin at 2am... Pulled my cash from the credit union in the morning and took the bus to the suburb and started driving home. No WOF, not Rego, no insurance. Seeing cops go past or lights flashing ahead was something to make the heartbeat speed a little in case they pulled me over and dished out an enormous fine + demerit points. Managed to make it home uneventfully, I just need to do some little minor repairs and get the WOF and Rego next week. A strip of exhaust tape to cover a hole in the pipe, a small tin of bondo and a can each of white primer and white paint and all will be sweet as. $305 + petrol for the trip + bandage, bondo and paint. Not a bad price for the condition it is in, the rust is minor, if it had been WOFed at a friendly local garage instead of at the VTNZ shop I reckon it would have passed... but since it has those locations listed on the database I need to remove the evidence before the next WOF. 1985 Honda Accord EX-S CA2. B18A DOHC, 246,XXX Km. Too old for Vtec, do y'all think I should rice it out with neons, a flouro paint job and 20" rims? It would fit in with the rest of the Honduh crowd then, as it is it fits in with the grannycar mob

Why they aren't using cars from japan as the base rather than shipping them from the states? Well the Japanese licencing requirements and fee schedule means once a car hits 5 years old or older it gets suddenly a LOT more expensive to licence and keep on the road. Instead of Cali CARB rules to keep cars smogged, they just make it uneconomic to keep old out-of-tune cars running vs buying a new car. Look at Japans Urbanisation figures, more head per square mile than there are in Times Square on New Years Eve waiting for the party to start... and how many in NY don't have cars these days? Figure out how many fewer own cars in Tokyo. While there are still Z's around cheaply available in the states, they've mostly been junked or sold overseas back in Japan. I'm in NZ, MOST cars imported to NZ are 5 to 7 year old Japanese cars, Used imports... Cheap because the Japanese original purchasers sold them to an export agency when they went to buy their new car. These days Russia is a big consumer of used Japanese cars. My 280ZX was sold new in japan in '79 and imported to NZ as a used import. The result of Japans licencing laws means the vast majority of what would eventually become "Classics" are disposed of in that period when they are no longer shiny new, but long before they become desirable once more. In the states cars in that period of low value end up being driven by the lower socioeconomic classes, by students, beneficaries, pensionsers on SS... in Japan they are simply disposed of. So "classic" cars in Japan that survived that low demand period and are now in the high value period of their vehicular lives are few and far between. So they import them back again. As to their claiming their cars to be Build by RA... I'm willing to bet that once the car arrives at the RA workshop it's stripped right down to bare metal once more and carefully scrutinised as it gets reassembled. If it's going to be sold by them, with their name on it, they can't be blamed for wanting to know for damn sure that it is up to their standards, and anything that isn't gets rectified. Those buying from RA are buying RA's brand. If I was RA, I wouldn't want to be selling something straight off the ship and onto the showroom floor.

Well, given they sell cars to buyers whose main car is a ferrari or AMG and are willing to shell out what Rocky asks... they better be pros and know their stuff.

www.trademe.co.nz + www.kiwishipping.co.nz

Here it is the other way around, KA's are hens teeth and SR's are like fleas on a dog... What you want depends on what is around you... Scarcity increases local prices and inflates desires.

Next Wednesday, that has me out then even airmail would have a hard time getting there by then from NZ! I was thinking, Hmm, could ship mine stateside and make a profit while still being under your budget, until I read it a second time and saw your time limit... Drat. 17x7 +0 Boyd Coddington Billet alloys. 4x114.3 Good luck finding something.

well, if E=MC2, and gravity is a property of M, and E is fount in Power stations, do you get heavier by a fraction of C2 when workign in said power stations?

If you want to pay for the shipping from New Zealand to Colorado, I have a choice of RB20DE and RB20E heads here, I have 2 DE and one E heads but only need one of the DE heads. They came as a bulk lot, buy them all or none, so for the one I wanted I have two I don't. $25US and shipping and one of the DEs is yours.