Slowpoke

Any pictures of how you mounted the AFM? I see you used flexible hose to locate the air filter. Did ou have to cut the rubber boot to the turbo?

Did you use the turbo alternator or the 280?

http://www.willtheyfit.com/ Use it to measure on your car at your desired ride height.

How is the swap going? I am doing an l28et swap into my 280, and this thread has some good info. Please update.

Looking for 240z front and rear bumpers in good condition, shipped to Detroit MI, 48033. Thanks!

If you want it to look like that, your going to have to understand "tire aspect ratio, tire width, wheel width, offset, back space, bolt pattern, etc". If you go on a recommendation for that type of setup without measuring your own car, your going to run into problems. There is a lot of custom bodywork/suspension on that car and just putting ZG flares and copying the wheel specs is not going to give you that look. You need to understand those terms and how they relate to your car. Measure your current set up and try playing with this: http://www.willtheyfit.com The your need to accommodate for flare type and fitment, as well as suspension geometry.

For the 4 bolt, just need to drill 2 additional holes in the strut tower. I made a template of the the "camber plate", traced it on the strut tower, and drilled the two other holes.

Awsome. Do you have any pictures of the back or a before and after of the back?

My car is about 5-4in of ground clearance from the frame rails, about 6 from the from the air dam. It could go much lower but i want to have some ground clearance for Michigan roads. I haven't tracked cars or motorcycles in a while so i can't give you a good answer about how it would function is that capacity. There is only one dampening control, that appears to set both compression and rebound. I would think you would want to control them separately for an serious track endeavors. Like i stated before, I don't drive very hard on the street so i probably won't ever hit a bump stop. I do believe BC racing makes more track orientated coilover setup that might fit into the threaded sleeves on the kit featured by JPN Garage. I would inquire with JPN Garage about upgrading the kit.

I just looked up my old shipping info, It was 7 and 8kg. Which sounded stiff at first but i like it. Ask JPN Garage, He'll point you in the right direction.

I went with the four bolt kit. I can't remember what spring rate, I just went with what JPN Garage recommend. I don't daily or race my 280, and it is relatively stock performance wise. I ordered the kit a few months ago and received it about a week later. I installed it shortly after, but haven't put many miles on them yet. I was pleasantly surprised with the quality of the kit. Everything came pre-assembled and packaged nicely. Installation was relatively easy compared to strut sectioning type kits. Most of the work was in removing the old struts. The struts on my car had the original cartridges in them, so I assume they had never been serviced. I made a cardboard template to help with the drilling of the extra hole in the strut tower. Took me about two days to disassemble the old struts, prep and install the coilover kit. Things I like about them so far: - Ride height adjustability without having to adjust spring height. For the most part, I can adjust the ride height with out taking off the wheels. These can go pretty low. - Dampening adjuster are on top with easy to turn knobs. Adjustments are noticeable, and take me less than two minutes to make. - Camber adjustment without welding the strut tops. I use -3 in the front and -1 in the rears. Still have more room for adjustment. - Improved handling! My ride is so much better. Transformed the car, so much more fun to drive. Granted, I had been riding on blown shocks and tired springs prior to the coilover kit, so i think anything fresh would have been a massive improvment. For how I use my car, summer weekend cruising, I don't really have any any negatives. I guess they could have better instructions, mine were poorly translated engrish. They also could have provided a template for drilling the two holes in the strut towers. But that is really just nit-picking. Overall, I am really happy with this setup and think this was the best choice for me. I'll have to put more miles on them and see if any faults develop, but I would definitely recommend this to someone who uses there car in the same way I do. Let me know if you have any questions.

I like it how some folks were, "this is a silly idea, buy wheels that fit...etc", in the first two pages of this thread. I'm glad you didn't listen.

Pics? Details?

Where did you find the pic? Tried a reverse search, no luck.

Thats the same air dam i have. unfortunately i have no clue what it is. @Loa, Those are different air dams.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/251704935919?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Now thats a badonkadonk!

This it going to look awsome!

Interesting, Just haven't seen plug welds used for this application. Lets see it on the ground

The setup looks cool. I am not a professional welder but I'm not to sure about those welds. From the pics it looks like you didn't clean up rust around where you welded. I don't think that's ok. Also if you left a 30-40mm lip on the original strut tube before you pressed in the threaded sleeve it would be pretty hard to weld it on crooked. I paid $50 to weld all for corners after I prepped them. The bead is laid around the edge of where the tube meets the spindle. I would get a second opinion. Nice shop workspace, looks like you guys have a nice bit of space.

Purchase flares, tape them in desired location, measure how much space you have, Google "offset or fitment calculator", then order wheels and tires. Repeat for brakes.

I was about to do the same as you and cut coils, but i decided to wait and just to coilovers instead. I'm glad i waited. When i took apart the stock setup, it had not been touched since 76! Springs were gross, shocks where NFG, bumpstops had disintegrated into dirt.... By the time i would have replaced all of the worn stock stuff and cut the spring i was halfway to a coilover setup. I was a good feeling to not have to put the stock stuff back on. I had also did some searching and it seemed as though most people who cut springs send up getting coilovers eventually. It took me awhile to save up but i just enjoyed the car in 4x4 mode. It still was fun and got lots of complements. Nice car and good luck!

Never heard of this setup. More info and pics would be cool.

I am curiouse to see how the front turns out. I feel like your going to have to cut a ton of the front air dam to be able to turn lock to lock.

Prefrerably, coilovers that you can weld onto the spindle, or you would need to section the strut housing. If you went with the TTT option so you will most likely have to section the stuts. You didnt mention roll center adjusters or camber plates, You might want them if your trying to go really low. As RebekahsZ mentioned all you "need" id the coilovers. The rear LCAs and other mods will get you a better allighnment once the car is low. All the info you need and more, is on here. Welcome, good luck, and post some pics of your car.