PurePontiacKid

It's a custom bent 2.5" piping that Y's off into dual Cherry Bombs. And if by heads you mean headers, they're cut/welded Clifford Research headers that were meant for a 280Z that still don't fit quite right in the car, and I think that's what's causing my exhaust leaks

Sorry about that, here's a link that works:

I thought I'd post an update on my car since it's been a while, and I've changed a helluva lot on it lately lol don't worry about the pipes, they're removeable lol Also, my car's not quite that low anymore, I raised it up about a half inch And here's a video of how it sounds now that I have my header on http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=29dHX...eature=channel

You mean to say that S30's didn't have shocks in the back? O_O lol My '79 doesn't squat that badly when I dump the clutch, and I still have the stock springs in the back (albeit with Tokico blues) I also prefer the looks of the S130 over the S30, but I still love (and want) and S30 just so I can compare the two. Also, my 90% stock ZX doesn't feel slow at all until I hit 3rd gear, and trust me, I've been in some fast cars (my first car being a 12sec '69 Firebird that I still have). It even beat my friend's B16 CRX! (but I don't want to get into any battles with comparing a Z to a Honda lol)

I'll quote what I said in another forum:

Like... maybe... a carbon fiber hood and a G-nose?

FWIW, this is my car with a 2.5" system Y-ing off into dual Cherry Bombs

My personal experience I found that my 2.5" crush bent system flowing into dual Cherry Bombs actually felt like it had more power all around, and pulled MUCH better towards the top end (I don't shift at redline anyways, but it gets to where I shift much faster) than running open head pipe (I don't have a header) or even the stock 2" exhaust with the muffler hacked off (even though it sounded damn good ) I noticed with the 2.5" system, it's a little throatier sounding, and the Cherry Bombs keep the same sound as the straight pipe, just a bit quieter Of course, I also "tuned" the AFM after I did all my mods (at least as well as you can tune the stock AFM, still running pig rich at WOT...)

you will DEFINITELY be able to fit 16x8 0 offset wheels under the stock arches I know that a 17x9 -13 offset (I know, it's taller and wider than the wheels you want, but it's just a comparison) also fit under the stock wheelwells 15x7 wheels will be tucked up pretty far in our monster sized wheelwells

I'm running a Blaster 3 on my car (all stock ignition on a '79 ZX) with no problems... I'm not sure if that helps you at all, though...

Dude, I love the lip on your ZX! what kind is it? do you know?

OH, I get it now, I think... for the rears, the red tube simply slides over the strut itself, and isn't bolted down anywhere, correct? and then you just used the same coilover setup as the fronts, too, right? Thanks for the insight!

Hey Yasin, about how much up travel (like from sitting, to fully compressed) did your car have when you had it slammed all the way down?

My dad runs aftermarket aluminum heads on his Pontiac racecar, and we sandblast the combustion chambers every time we rebuild it, and he hasn't had a problem with it... we just do it to clean up the combustion chambers, so that it's clean going back together...

Mah new head! lol sorry about the dirtiness, but I haven't been able to find time to get it cleaned yet Oh, and I also took a couple comparison phics of the differences from the small valves to the big valves, just because I had nothing better to do

sent you a pm

In response to the Fel Pro gasket, how thick are they? I have one on my car, but I never measured it, since I was just trying to get it running at the time

I've done it on my car, but from the old tails to the new ones, they were a DIRECT bolt in, even the connectors were alright! the only thing you have to make sure of, though, is that you get the matching backing plate (the thing that holds them to the car) as they are different, but other than that, they are in fact a direct bolt in I've even got my old set still, if you're interested

77 pretty much means it's a 400 and all Pontiac blocks are the same, from the 350 all the way to the 455, the only differences were the bore/strokes

I would definitely check/replace the ignition coil, I replaced my stocker with a MSD Blaster 3 coil, and it solved my problem (which was very similar to yours )

Boost Controlled Decelleration Device

Holy crap, I was in a hurry when I posted that, and forgot to mention what car I have Well, my car is a N/A '79 280ZX. I've got a new Z32 fuel filter in it. Does my car have a filter before the pump, also? I'm not sure... if it does, then I haven't replaced that one yet. And I can't get to the pickup tube from the access hole in the car? Thanks for the quick responses!

Well, I got my car running a while ago, and the car runs beautifully right after I fill it up with gas (the gauge reads at about 7/8's of a tank when completely full), but when I let it get low on fuel (7/16's of a tank and lower) it starts running horribly, as in it idles really rough, and doesn't make any power. Once I let it get down to just over half a tank, and when I was cruising, it started to die, when I hit the gas, the revs went lower, until I just let it idle for a little bit, then it came around (which, to me, sounds like it's running out of gas...) And it idled real rough at that stop light, and when I tried to accelerate, it popped out of the intake, which also leads me to believe its running out of fuel/running lean... So my question is, what, in your opinions, would cause my car to do that? And yes, I did search, but I couldn't find anything... Thanks!

It matters more if the fuel is leaded or unleaded

Well, since I got 'new' wheels for my 280, I figured I finally try and find out what kind of wheels the old ones were, but I can't figure out what they are... Can you guys be of any help? Here's some pics: