Pharaohabq

Oh? That's news to me, I'd thought the Z31 LSD's used the higher # of splines, but I just re-read my notes and it seems it's the R180 that has different splines than the R200's that includes the Z31. So yeah, my bad.

Not usually, I think the Spline counts are different.

Sounds like a short(open)to me. I'd check the fuse box and the connections to it. the 240Z stock fuse box is notorious for having bad connections. The Fuel gauge operates on the amount of current flowing through the gauge, this is tempered by the adjustible resistor in the fuel sender. I don't remember if it's open that's empty, or fully closed that's empty, but likely it's open circuit that's supposed to show empty. So If you have a bad connection somewhere or your sender is bad it would drop to empty when you hit a bump and slowly go back up to the proper fuel level when the connection is re-established. As for poster#2 Spitsnaugle: It sounds like a shorted connection or bad sender to me, as above, your gauge is getting full current all the time. One way of testing this is to find the fuse that runs the fuel gauge, pull it and wire a temporary adjustible resistor (rhiastat)across the fuse slot, (CAUTION HERE: DO NOT SHORT THE WIRES TOGETHER WITHOUT A FUSE OR RESISTOR IN PLACE - Too much current could cause damage to your harness/gauge It should work that When you turn the resistor down, the fuel gauge should go up. if it doesn't then there's likely something wrong with the gauge. At least this is how I would expect it to work, since the gauge should be a circuit. Separately you could take the leads free from the tank and put the adjustible resistor there. (it would be wired in series with the fuse). Again changing the resistance to affect the gauge reading. this will tell you if your sender is dead or what... Phar

Okay this Thread is hard to follow... OP bought a car... YAY! it's a 70! Awesome, What's it's VIN number is what everyone wants to know. The rest of the posts are lamenting over the failed purchase of this same car, or what seems more likely is that it's a different car that didn't get bought, that has nothing to do with this thread. So OP, Thanks for the pictures! it looks like an AWESOME deal for $550. Hopefully the rust isn't too bad at all. Phar

Well I know the frame rails are @ 25" width so a 24" should work for the opening, Really it would be best to mesure for yourself, but with the snow like that' it's understandable you can't very easilly.

Hmm I'd always thought LED's should be connected with a series inline resistor just to limit current should there be a short. It's been years since my electronics classes but a small resistor with each LED shouldn't affect your brightness, but could save your harness since when a Diode has flowing current, there's hardly any resistance so the amperage could draw up pretty high in comparison to incandescent bulbs, the resistors could prevent this. I dunno though, my info is 20+ years ago memory so it's entirely possible I'm wrong. Hey I like those LED bulbs though. The PWM unit. Nobody explained how that works with LED's. Basically an LED is like a switch either it's on or it's off, the Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) box makes it so you're flipping that switch on and off really fast. So that on bright, the LED is pulsed longer to an always on condition. As you turn the POT down, the pulses actually get shorter so the LED appears to Dim since the time that they're actually on is less. This flashing on/off is still happening so fast you can hardly see, like a TV, so to our eyes it just looks brighter or dimmer. This won't hurt your car so long as it's only in the dash circuit. Pulsed power probably wouldn't be good for the ECU on a newer Z. Phar

Hmm those three parts should be the same as what you've got if you've got the same column. Either way if you've already bought them then you could try them out and see. Did you ask the seller what parts he doesn't think will fi, and why? too small? too big? If your column is different than pictured then he might be right.

Pretty cool Video. Lighting really needs some help, but hey can't really complain there.. Your bumper sticker is funny, I liked that. Two things though, What's with the driver's door being open when you're sliding around the parking lot? Not exactly safe there. and the other, it that you should lose the pine tree air freshener, that's not exactly classy... But hey it's your car, and it you like em then it's all you. Other than all that I really like the video. You picked a great song to go with it.

Well as with any swap it's easiest to get all the parts from the same Donor, but in this case it's not available. You'll need to look around and see if you can find them. Alternatively you can go Megasquirt, or adapt a Z31 Turbo Harness ECU etc into it. There's nothing saying you have to stick with the L28ET stuff, it's just easier that way. Look around, Try EBay, craigslist or some of the forums. (Forsale/wanted on here is pretty handy) PM me and I'll hook you up with my local Z dismantler, he might have that stuff. Pharaohabq

That's what I meant too. I wasn't saying that big rust holes should be fiberglassed, I was saying that the poly fiber filler is much better for smoothing repaired panels than using lead as a filler, and it's much cheaper too.

Hey Be nice to our admins... They own the BAN button. You ask for input on value, but only give us two pictures of the car and tell us it's got a couple things after someone else mentioned them. If you'd provided more information we may have been able to give you better advice. Getting snippy with the Admins certainly doesn't make us want to help. What Z2go said about getting it professionally appraised is probably your best bet, and would provide you with ammunition to justify your asking price. Though don't expect it to sell for the appraised price. You may be able to put it up on East coast craigs lists NY, Boston, etc. To get higher offers, but be sure to include that they'd have to pay shipping. A rust free Z on the east coast is worth a bit more than it would be in say Arizona.

Taking over someone else's build... Wow, really that could be a pain since you don't have a feeling for where each part or set of bolts came from. If he did a really good job of labelling things then, yeah it's probably a good deal, if not you could be looking at a nightmare. It's a good idea to go get a few boxes on 10MM 12MM and 14MM bolts since likely you'll be replacing some anyway. Aside from that I'd say you'd be in pretty good shape if you're mechanically inclined and certain the parts are all there. The Body work.. Well it can be smoothed with lead filler, but that's pretty old school. Modern fiberglass filler is much easier to work with and can easilly be redone. This compared to the lead filler which tends to warp the panels almost as much as it fills them. I completely agree that as little filler as possible should be used to achieve the smoothest surface. But really, Why do you only want to use metal filler?

Those custom stub axles on your diff, If you wanted to use the stock speedo, you'd need to have the toothed rings put on so the sensor can pick up your wheel RPM. You're probably going custom on that too though I'm sure.

lets see some closer pictures of that right side damaged area. both inside outside, and underneath. maybe we can figure how they repaired it, n see what you'll have to do to pull it straight. The 2x4's and bottle jack in the passenger footwell would certainly work to push it out, but I'm just wondering what it'll do to the outside.

Getting a OEM ZX Turbo clutch should hold the power that engine should make. if it burns out quickly them I think there's some other issue. The 280ZXT is a heavier car so it stands to reason the ZXT clutch shouldn't have to work as hard in a lighter S30. It's your wallet, but I'd still go with the cheaper (not bargain basement) oem clutch/flywheel. The Car looks pretty good. Is that the stock paint? If your engine only has a short warranty, then you should get it in and started ASAP. $400 is a great price, Does it include the ECU/wiring and parts like the AFM?

Take another look at the Bad dog fram rails, I think those should be fine for replacing yours. Aside from that, you can wrap your engine compartment rails in box or angle steel. Unless you're swapping in a tougher engine, you probably don't need to do much more than that. The Cross member area you said had rusted, can be repaired with angle or even just a plate. As for the tubing, I'm reusing my fuel lines, but replacing the brake lines, since mine aren't in very good shape. Definitely going to do the brake upgrade and put in stainless braided lines to the wheels. As for removing larger painted areas, a good DA sander will do well. That area in the right where it was pushed in, Either I wouldn't worry about it, or you could try to hammer ot out a bit. The floor area, put a couple 2x4's on a jack under the dent, then hammer if flat from the top. the side, you'll just have to push it out. a bottle jack and some more 2x4's might work for that too, though if they repaired the outside, you could mess that up. Phar

Well that is a lot of rust, but really to me it looks like most of it is surface, cept for a few obvious points. That lincoln welder might be fine for fixing things up. First things first though. Get a flat blade screwdriver, and press on various points in the rusted areas. if the screwdriver easily dents, or pushes through the rusted area, then you'll need to replace. If not, then a good sanding and repainting w/ rust inhibitor will do wonders. Especially out east, you don't want to leave bare metal exposed, so even a can of primer will work wonders to keep things from rusting between work sessions. Use a grinder with a wire wheel to get into most of the bad areas. you'll also need to sand back the paint a few inches since rust travels under the paint, not to mention you can't weld to paint. The MIG welder doing stitched butt welds is the normal way that people replace panels. The stitching keeps the panel from heating too much and warping. the butt welds when ground down are pretty easy to smooth. You don't really need any metal behind the panel. (that could actually catch water and rause it to rust again) Be sure to seal both the front and back of any repairs. You're fighting a lot of rust, so I'd recommend you go with the wire wheel ans screwdriver to see what really needs to be replaced, and what can just be cleaned up. I'd actually recommend too that you take a beginner welding class at a community college/trade school, if that's possible. You'll really learn a lot, though it's not brain surgery. You'll know what a good weld looks like, compared to a weak one. Usually they're cheap, like $40 bucks for the whole class.

Good Advice there Richard, You should come check out the Albuquerque Z club sometime. Might be able to get you discounts in Santafe. I'm not sure I'd want to reuse even the ARP head bolts, but that's just me. As for rebuilding the engine. There's a LOT to be said for rebuilding your own engine, and that book has a lot of infor in it. As does the Haynes manuals. Really how much you do depends a lot on you, and how skilled you think you are. I rebuilt my first L28 when I was 15. It's not too tough so long as you follow the manual and stay organized. I'd definitely send the head and block out for cleaning and machine work. Oh and On the head, you'll want to use those Ford Viton valve seals. They're much better for a Unleaded gas running engine. There's a few other upgrades like the Distrib to consider, but rebuilding isn't too hard, mostly it's keeping organized like I said. The best part of doing it yourself, in knowing the engine, and being able to say "I fixed this!". Of course that also has something to do with your wallet and how much spare time you have.

Well the junkyard is a pretty easy place to locate a spare. Just measure the well and then go trunk hopping and see what you can find with the right bolt pattern. You don't have to go with an inflatable spare, pretty much any doughnut will work so long as the size is close. A couple notes on why most doughnut spares aren't rated for highway speed: A. because the rubber isn't rated very high, and being rounded is doesn't track so well. B. With two different sized rear tires, your Differential will be working extra hard and could heat up and fail.

Right, okay, so without scanning the whole car into some fancy computers to model some actual wrecks there's not really that much that we could or, in your opinions, should do to change the actual structure of the S30 chassis. This makes sense to me, though I would love to see simulations at work. So limiting our modifications to what we've listed is really the best idea at this point. Just to recap the list: Learn to drive - drive like people are trying to kill you (easy advice, but not really a car mod) Door bolsters - To limit body accelleration in a crash. Impaxx foam Rollcage - Does this really help in a daily driver? Seats - Newer seat design can hold a passenger to help prevent body accelleration ABS - Haven't seen anyone put in in an S30 yet. Are ABS calipers much different than standard calipers? Don't remove Factory bumpers Better lighting - DRL, 3rd brake light. USE SEATBELTS (replace/inspect) - Using the provided protection is your #1 resposibilty in keeping yourself from getting hurt. Anything else to add? Oh and thanks for wrecking you car, as compared to wreaking havoc. Phar

Yeah, see those lights in the hood look awesome! verwy niicess

so Any news, Mark? Coming up on 2 months quiet..

according to that site, your Z is between Jan and Sept 71'

Tony: I agree, People are the #1 safety feature of a car. But people also need to be protected from themselves. I agree Seatbelts are a Primary line of protection in an accident. You'd be stupid not to wear them. As for the car, I'm not saying I want to reuse the car after an accident, I want it to do it's job and protect us from injury. I'm trying in this thread to explore methods of updating the S30's Safety features to better protect us in the event of a wreak. I'm not trying to protect the car. If it keeps me or my passengers from being hurt, the car is 100% disposable. Yes I would like for it to be repairable, but not at the expense of injury. I'm trying to make a list of some of the "...some internal things been changed..." to help improve occupant survivability. So, Again I'm agreeing with you that people need to use the provided safety equipment. You've given a lot of advice and introspection on the nature of accidents. Your posts on door padding and occupant responsibilty have been great. What other areas do you know, that are weak from a safety viewpoint in the S30 chassis? BJhines: Great suggestions. The 3rd tailight idea I've been thinking a lot about, I'm sure there's a thread on here somewhere about adding one. Also, your point about the Age of the seatbelts is definitely valid. our S30's are 35+ years old. I certainly wouldn't climb using a 35 year old rope that's been dried and sunbaked, so replacing the seatbelts or at the very minimum inspecting them for wear is certainly warranted. Driving lights, and DRL are a great idea too. I dunno if a bicycle flag is worth being able to find my car in a parking lot, a Remote trigger and a train horn sounds easier I really liked those articles about the Safer Rollbar setup, and ESPECIALLY the parts in there about the OEM sheetmetal bolstering. Welding additional layers of OEM sheetmetal in strategic points to strengthen known weakpoints might be a really good idea. This may help limit chassis intrusion in areas where a roll cage may not be sufficient or dangerous. Along with the Impaxx foam padding (shaved and covered for a nice interior) to limit occupant accelleration, sound like good ideas. That Doran Cunningham horn is amazing, but a bit of an overkill for an S30. One that loud would likely be a safety hazard in itself, quite dangerous in traffic anyway, not to mention your ears. Phar

yeah, under 5k you still got a deal. lets see more picts.