Pharaohabq

Cool, I'm looking forward to the picts. One idea that most people doing this saw haven't really considered is flipping the steering crossmember 180 degrees, and mounting it in front of the rack. Cut sections mounted in the original locations could hold the lower control arms of the front suspension. But this is reinventing the wheel. The cutout crossmember Austin and Myron designed works okay. I've just posted pictures of my crossmember mods on my VQ35HR thread.

If you replace the Alt, then you might consider upgrading to the ZX alternator. there's info on that on this site...

Hmm, Electrical drains are always fun. I know the 280's pulse the injectors by pulsing the grounds. IT's pretty tough to say where the drain might be if he's already pulled all the fuses. The fusible links are higher amperage "fuses" as a term. I think all the vehicle power runs through them. but you should really look in the FSM/Haynes manuals for the wiring schematics about them. Is this something that just started one day, or has it been an ongoing problem? I'm sure you're testing the light between the neg term and neg cable with the Key in the off position right? Has the car had custom radio install? I'm wondering if there was a splice that was done incorrectly. With the cable connected & key off you could try using a meter to check various plugs to ground (frame) and see if you get voltage. The constant power wires should be very few in number. Another posibility is at the fuse box, you could use your meter there w/ fuses removed, one side of the fuses should be 0 volts, the other will show 0 to ground unless there's a leak. From there if you find power, you'd need to trace that line to fix a short. Unfortunately electrical problems are a pain. on these old Z's too there's a large amount of corrosion in the plug connectors. so as you're tracing things, get some dilectric grease, and some terminal cleaner spray. Clean each connection you take apart, and put it togeter again with a little of the grease to help prevent trouble later on. Sorry I'm not more help on this, Hopefully some of the other guys have more suggestions for you. Phar

Well having done it both ways, I'll tell you pulling the engine and rebuilding it out of the car is MUCH easier than working on it in the car, though you can do everything but plane the block with it in the car. A drill with a 10MM adaptor is the way to go on the 10000 oil pan bolts you'll have to remove. If you're doing the rings you might as well do the bearings as well, and doing those, the oil seals arent too tough but really it's all much easier with the engine on a stand, than crawling under the care and back out 20 times. Harbor freight is your friend. Just Autozone parts are cheap and high enough quality for a daily driver. The Haynes manual tells everything you need to know to do the whole job. Though if you have the valves done (which you should once the head is off) you should use the Ford Viton valve seals as they hold up better in a NON-LEADED gas environment. (The L28 originally was designed for leaded gas) You should Rebuild it yourself, make it yours, And take a bunch of pictures and post them on here for our review and comments. We might be able to tell you a lot of tricks to make things much easier. Yeah people will say READ the manual, but that's not why we're here. We're here because we love Z's and love improving them. Why not help you improve your engine? Oh definitely consider a timing chain set replacement as the same time. Maybe Swap the distrib for a ZX version. maybe swap your head for a P90A ZX hydralic version. There's a lot you can do to improve things while you're at it. In anycase, take lots of pictures!!! Phar Edit: Ahh just read you didn't get the car, oh well, keep looking, theres a few left.

Ahh Much better, See More information is MUCH more helpful. If you said it was kinda surging we'd know a little more where to direct you. I see now it's likely not the Battery arcing on anything. IT could be your vaccuum advance it stuck (Open the Dist and make sure the little vaccuum actuated carriage moves freely, that or get a hose and suck on the pot to actuate it. this to test.) Also you could try pulling a vaccuum hose and see if it acts any differently. Separately it could just be that you're getting starved for fuel, Like CGSheen said, I would replace the fuel filter as a first part to check. The 6th FI that you pulled the plug on is worrysome, but try just tapping on it with the butt of a screwdriver and see if it knocks loose. plug it back in and see if the problem is still there. AFTER replacing the Fuel filter, you could replace the injector, but we don't know for certain it's the problem, since I wouldn't expect an injector to cause surging like that, usually that's due to fuel starvation or a vaccuum leak. You can use a piece of tubing to listen for vaccuum leaks by holding an end to your ear and placing the other near each tube connector. obviously don't connect the tube to any nipples. hehehe unless your wife is kinky.. JK!~ Anyway, try the fuel filter first, I think it's most likely, these cars are 40 years old and theres usually a lot of crap in the tank. Phar

I'm very interrested in your Steering rack ideas. I'm sticking with my modified steering crosmember for the swap, but I would really like some power steering in the future. Some more picts of the rack setup and front suspension please. Also maybe some part #'s on the Ford stuff. I like the idea of staying w/ datsun/nissan parts, but if theres a solution that's a LOT better then oh well have to use the better parts. Have you guys tried test fitting your engine yet? How ar eyou setting up the engine mounts? Are you using that Mckinney stuff? Phar

those heads are purty... I've always liked clean heads ready to go. Looks like you're doing a great job. What coating is on that piston? Ceramic?

There's the FWD headers, where they point more or less straight down, but When I was looking at those, I couldn't really justify spending 500 bucks on a set then having to cut them up because they're made for a sideways mounted motor. I've been looking at mine and I think if I cut the off at about the collector and grind down the edge a lot I could maybe squeeze a 6" radius 2.5" pipe in there. I'm not sure how close I can be to the firewall w/out some additional protection. I can either fab some heat shields or use that high temp matting. It may not be a problem though. I figured I would try it this way especially since the headers are the equal length tube type instead of the earlier 3:1 type. Not that I know how much difference that'll make. I'd really like you to see the car sometime and let me know your opinions. I've been working on my steering crossmember, and I figure if I can get that and the Steering shaft put together, then I can get the car back on the ground. though, I need to have the driveshaft made, and get the electronics figured before it's drivable. Nothing big riiight? hehe Phar (Eric)

again, more information would be nice...

Looks pretty good there on the Rails. Are the floors going to be flat again? It's kinda hard to tell in the pict. As for that Dent by the door. It does look like a pretty good hit, but You should measure the distance from the center of the car to where the Door hinge is and see if it's still pushed in there as compared to the other side. The car may not be square. and if that's the case then the door won't sit flush w/o shims or using a jack and some boards to push it out to the correct distance. As for the looks of that area, you could cut out the section from a domor and weld that in, but that's a lot of work, or just hammer in in so it looks pretty much flat under the carpet. If nobody's going to see it, then it's only you that would worry about it. The crack you can weld just like you do the panels. Don't forget to seal your repairs since you don't want any rust to start. Wow your sis lost part of a lung, that sucks, hope it wasn't cancerous. Phar

Because you may have perhaps hit a bump and shifted the battery to a shorting position. Obviously I don't really know what's wrong with your car. I'm trying to give you constructive advice based on the information that you've given me. If you want different diagnosis, then you need to be more specific in your description of the problem. I can only till you what it sounds like is happening. It is possible it could be a different problem. but since you were just working on the battery and the car was fine before that, it is likely it's caused by something you did, or didn't do correctly. The S30's are notorious for having positive battery terminals near the fender under the inspection lid. Which, was also another factor in my recommendations for where to look for trouble. Phar

MSA...? Fiberglass, dunno. Search in the body and kits forum on here.

Because if you were shorting the battery, then you'd have a weak or non existant spark to the plugs, and thus no power. It could act exactly how you described, especially since you said the power came back. which tells me your battery could have shifted away from the short again.. Just check where the positibe terminal is and see if anything could be shorting it to the frame/inspection lid/other wires/screwdriver you forgot to put away etc.. etc... Phar

New Battery? Did you tie down the battery? sounds to me like something was shorting, Shorts bad, cause fires. Make sur eyour battery is tied down, and nothing can contact the positive batt cable. Phar

Okay, not to threadjack, but it's kinda related. What is the Rope looking seal around the doors called and where can I get it? All the stuff at the junkyard Z's are all trashed around here... I couldn't find it on Ebay either. Anyone know? I think it goes over a body seam... Phar

Yep sounds like an Early 260Z, Nothing wrong with them that a weekend mechanic couldn't figure out. Really Condition of the car at this point should be your real factor. Emissions isn't going to be a problem regarless of if it's early or late 74' The 260 had a 2.6L L26 engine, which isn't much different than the 280 or the 240Z's so Getting it in running condition is a plus. In the end it's your money, and if the price is right and you like what you see then go for it. The only reason I'd ever argue for the 280Z is the safety aspects, but even then the differences aren't much. Phar

you might investigate how cars were registered in Okinawa back in the 70's. Unfortunately this long later you can about guarantee that nobody would have save any of the paperwork about it. Any of the records even on the shipping from Okinawa are likely gone too. The original owner may still be alive, so if you can track him or his relatives down they may be able to tell you more of the car's story. It's pretty cool that you know as much as you do. My Car for instance, I know was the lady I bought it from's mom's car, and it sat for 10 years after she blew the HG, before selling it to me because she was moving to AZ. I haven't found any paperwork other than main records from the 80's. the 90's and 2000's are a gap other than what she'd said, and the marks on the driveway that'd substantiated what she'd said. Not to mention she had no reason to lie. so tracking down the PO's family et al to see what they remember might be an idea, not to mention there might be photographs from that time. wouldn't that be cool, a pict of your car on Okinawa... Phar

I thought I recognised that massive turbo....

Looks like a pretty decent deal. You really need to get it put up on a rack though to see if there's any rust underneath or how your seals are. not to mention the bushings. If the rubber is trashed then it's a lot of work to replace it all, though the car will ride super nice once it's all done. Don't worry about the tail lights, ppl have them on here or Ebay pretty cheap these days. Or you can go to Klearz.com and get the clear/smoked lenses. It's your can, and you can put as little or as much as you want into it. Oh you should also check out classic/modified car insurance, it's much better, and cheaper than regular insurance. Is the paint original? 78, black pearls are noteworthy...

Those lights should look pretty dang cool. I can't hardly wait to see them in place. What did you use to make the bends in the interior around the light? Quality looking work.

I'd check out your aunt's car. if it's low to no rust you might really consider working on her to sell it to you. There's not many out there, and FEW that you'd know the history of so that could really be worth it.

So it's been a while since I've posted. In that time I've pulled the engine twice and reset my motor mounts since I didnt' like how far forward the engine was sitting. Ahoke and Ey weren't kidding when they said it was tight. Though the VQ35HR does seem to fit a little better that the DE version. Mines about as far forward as theirs BUT I still have my hood latch. I've been modifying my Steering crossmember much like Ahoke did, so I'll be posting some picts of that soon. I'm really happy with my hood clearance, and with the oil pan clearance. I'd thought is was a lot taller than the DE engine, but really I'm not seeing this to be much of a problem at all. Here's some picts of the clearance. under hood clearance Exhaust is tight at the firewall, this will take some work. another exhaust view, I'll have maybe 5 inches to make that bend. Hood closed no trouble.

I know this is an old thread, but I figure it's worth mentioning that Oil or grease is NOT the best lube for locks. It's really much better to use Graphite or a drying silicon spray. both will lubicate the lock, but not allow for dirt to collect on the parts. Oil and great will work but eventually gum up when they get dirty. Brake parts cleaner is really good for removing oil grease and dirt from old locks, then graphite to replace the lube and you should be set. Thanks for detailing the fixing of the worn parts. that's awesome... Phar

Can't say I'm suprised. Almost everything for our cars is OOP. If you don't have a source for the used parts, send me a PM.

YEah that epoxy sealer stuff works great. I plugged a hole in my 91' D21 pickup tank about 5 or so years ago, and it's been fine ever since. it's certainly cheaper than a used tank. but it's worth inspecting your tank anyway. One hole from rust means more isn't far behind. Check those hoses too like NewZed said, they are 30+ years old. Hard to find to replace tho.