Pharaohabq

Interresting. What brakes are you thinking these brackets will be for? If you're thinking of the same brake conversion that places like motorsports already has brackets for, then you're just duplicating work already done. Cheaper to buy the motorsports brackets, or some off Ebay. If you're building your own, the I'd recommend using at lease 3 of the mounting bolts around the base. There's a lot of liabilty here, so really you should be careful, it's more than just your life riding on your brakes. Phar

Yipes! I'll say they did you a huge favor! That makes sense, no use letting a new set of tires sit around. What Fuel pump are you planning on using with the fuel cell? Phar

Whew! $500 per wheel. I guess I shoudl get my car running before investing in 2500 worth of wheels. I might still be interrested in the file a little later though. I was thinking basically the same design, but the center could be drawn back to basically 5" backset instead of the 6.5 you've got. It woudl be more curved inward on the spokes to accomplish this, giving the wheels sort of a funnel look. I'm planning on a 5 lug conversion, but there may be more to it than that. In the meantime I've got a set of 16" sportmax's I'm going to run. Certainly not as pretty as mark's but the cool part is that I'll still be able to use them before, during and after my 5 lug swap. (dual lug pattern) Anyway, back to Mark's build, What tires are you thinking of using? I've always liked Dunlops, but on my Z32 I've got a set of potenza's that've been really decent. I had Falken's before, but they wore out quick! Phar

Well, I'm not real certain about the supercharger/xterra stuff, but usually if you're not able to rev past 2K then the engine is in Limp mode. Does it seem really rich at >2K rpm? If that's the case, then either your AFM is bad, or not being read correctly. You really need to get the FSM for the Xterra so you can try to figure more about what you're looking at. As for the injectors being too small, that shouldn't be stopping you from revving, it's just going to limit your power at higher RPM. since it's running you might see if you can find a Consult III that could read the actual codes and interpret for you. I assume you're using the stock Xterra harness / ECU etc too right?

the grill has chrome? huh... mine doesn't...

good to know. I've got a set of bushings on order right now. I'll let you know how mu install goes.

I believe that though the Distrib is keyed, it is possible to get it in 180 deg off. possibly the case. also yout timing could be off if you hemoved the head, I would really check to be certain your timing marks are all lined up properly.

I guess the real question is how afraid of pulling the engine are you? There's a lot that could be done w/o pulling the engine, but things will be a LOT easier to fix with the engine out, not to mention setting up the 5sp manual is easier that way too. the RHD Z32 is worth a bit, but only to the right people, so you can't really count that as value. So if you get the car (sounds like you should) then pull the engine, look at what it needs, repair or replace. it's that easy, but not cheap or quick. The body looks good. and it's a lot easier to put a TT engine back into one that had it, rather than swapping to an NA. Keep in mind tho if you buy a JDM engine, you should open it up and check it out anyway since you don't know what it's been through. Phar

dunno, take it to the dealer and have then hook it up to their consultII and have it test the speedo. I don't believe the Z32 speedo's are cable driven. Otherwise I'd say it was the cable. But the ConsultII should be able to test it. Probably cost you 65$ as nissan. Cheaper if you're part of a Z club.

only thing I could figure is that they'd want the hubs pulled to protect the bearings from impact forces.

Well if you mucked about with the 78 engine, you might have messed up the timing. If not, you might just check your plug wires are correctly installed. 153624 you've got fuel and spark so it's got to be something like timing. Check that the rotor is pointed at plug 1, that the main crank is at 0 on the timing plate, then open the oil fill cap and look in to try to see the cam lobes for Cyl1 should be pointing up in a V, notating compression stroke. if this is all correct, then it's not a timing issue. Electrics can be tough to figure. What connections do you have for constant 12v and switched 12v in the 280Z harness? Phar

Droool! hehe you think they'd make me a set too? I wonder who retains rights to the wheel pattern. now that they've made one it's a lot easier to reproduce them.

There's only a few things that would cause your engine not to run. 1 Fuel, gotta have it to burn. 2. Spark, gotta have it to ignite the fuel. and 3. Proper timing. Assuming you have compression and all since you just rebuilt the motor. Fuel, You will need to get some hose and a gas can, take loose the fuel line from the engine, and run it out to the gas can, Be careful here, GAS IS FLAMABLE AND DANGEROUS. but you'll need to run it and ensure a good flow. If not, you'll likely need to replace your fuel filter, or worse clean out your gas tank and replace filter and pump. Spark, When you've got your fuel lines cleaned out and reconnected and all gas is enclosed safely away, you can pull off a plug wire and put it on a spare plug, balance it on your vavlecover and see if it sparks when you crank, no spark, = likely bad coil/wires/dist rotor/cap. As for the timing marks, Check out the timing picts on this guy's car domain page: 280z timing pict page You'll see all the timing marks you need. I think also on the back of the upper gear there are two marks that aren't shown that should be level with the head. If you make sure those all match you should be good on the timing. As for busted bolts, you should replace the busted ones unless you want oil leaks. And stop over tightening your valve cover and it won't strip and sieze your bolts. Good luck and hope you get it started. Oh the Haynes manual or the FSM are really helpful for this. Phar

Yeah, my shifter bracket is awesome... Thanks Austin. Phar

Nice, Looking forward to seeing the new picts, as usual. I always get all happy when I see new posts in this thread.

I know I'll get jumped on for this, but how about a Jeep engine, 4.0L HO EFI jeep engine... It would have tons of torque, so you could have longer gears. It's roughly the same size as the S30 L28 engine. You'll definitely want to use something other than the AX15 tranny Jeeps use, because the gears are lower, that is unless you want to drift your Z. Maybe a 6sp 350Z tranny could be made to work? Sounds like you're pretty set on a Beemer engine tho. So this was just a suggestion.

hello Ebay....

Also you're in CA so on the 240z no emmissions checks. the 280 requires them. (tho the 240 engine has obviously been swapped so emmissions might be required on both, but you might get away with the 240... Yeah condition is a really big thing, look closely for Rust. and also what year is the 240z, if it's a low vin 70' 240Z it'd be definitely worth more than the 280. AC isn't so big a deal. it's just adding parts to the existing car. If you like the 240 bumpers and all better, then go for that, because it'll be cheaper to add AD to the 240Z than to add all the bumpers and all to the 280Z. Phar

Nice Cage Build, I know this is an old thread but OP is still here and I didn't ressurect it. I may use some of your ideas when I get to builing my cage. I want to be SCCA legal so I'll do a few things differently, such as integrating the main hoop closer to the side of the car in-front of the wheelwell, though I really liked your integrations into the wheelwell too. I'm also going to build in the adjustible Camber plates at the same time. Couple things I've wondered about with this, and other cage builds. One is at the base of your A pillar, forward to the firewall, do you have a connector there to your frame, so that in the event of a side impact, your feet don't get banged up, or worse pinned by 1.5" tubing. It's up to you, but I've always thought it would be a good idea. Something I've thought about too is the idea of building the Door bars into the door itself, using heavier hinges, and at the latch, use Cupped catch plates similar to the upper side of the Z32 door catch. I know this is probably not going to be legal for SCCA driving, but I'd figure it would hold in the event of an impact, though maybe not so much in a rollover at 100MPH, the door latches would need to hold the door shut, thus being the weak points. Alternately, I've been looking at maybe using the main leather covered, fancy finish, main hoop from a early 2000's ford mustang convertable. It's not track legal either, but would look nice inside a Z. Let me know if you want clarification on any on my ideas depicted here. and I can try to get some pictures drawn up to show more detail. Phar

So how was that hospital stay? you're lucky to be alive, I figured you got Zapped (and I don't mean hit by a fancy yellow Z) because nobody posted in weeks. Calling an electrician to come fix it would have been MUCH cheaper than that hospital stay. I hope you will do that next time. Electricity is nothing to fark around with if you don't know what you're doing. Phar

I'd be real suprised if you could find out out there NOS. It's likely much easier to have your existing one, or a used one hot dipped and cleaned up real good, repainted and all set for you. so far as i know the 75-79's were the only years S30's were EFI. Though I don't believe the tanks were pressurized since the Fuel pump was external, and the fuel return is regulated at the engine.

Though the motor is excellent, I've been reading about the motors a bit and though you could probably fit one in an S30, the question is: Is it your best choice for a swap. Really it's your $ and your car so it's up to you in the end. None of us are going to stop you. Our job is to keep you from having trouble during your swap by providing suggestions and educated guidance from our own experience/mistakes. So If you're convinced this is the right engine for you, then I'd say go for it. But keep in mind there may be better choices out there. If you're going to do a swap, then there's some things you may want to consider first. One is the cost, you usually take whatever you budgeted for the cost and double it for a good starting point. Second, when finding the engine for your swap, do your best to get the donor engine and the WHOLE CAR it came from. This will save you literally hundreds of headaches in the long run, and if possible, see the engine run before you pull it from the donor car. we've all heard the stories of buying an engine, putting it in and going to start it, then findin out it's got internal issues. Third, Read read read, Get the manual, read it, read all you can about how the engine works, and what is going to be needed to make it run. What electronics are involved? Read about similar swaps, and read about the donor models to see what issues are common just with the donors. READ about the S30, and what it's going to take to integrate the systems between the two. Read about Fuel injection, and what types there are, and know what your donor engine uses. Knowledge is your friend. If you learn about what you're doing, it'll go much more smoothly when you actually get to turn the wrenches. Phar

key code is punched on the original key, and on the locks as well as on a sticker inside the glovebox.

okay, to get this open, Consider taking apart the lower dash to see if you can get to the hinge screws, they're never very tight. you may be able to get them out, w/o damaging your box from the back. You have the Key that fits the ignition right? It's supposed to be the same key unless some PO had replaced the box. worst case you can pull the dash and pop out the whole box, but I don't know if you can do that w/o getting behind the box. If you can line up a new door, it might just be easiest to cut/bust out the door and replace it. Phar

Ouch, Man that's a lot of rust. But if you really like the challenge, then keep it up, just remember to treat and seal all the metal you replace. Inside and out is best. even a light coat of primer will buy you time as compared to leaving bare metal exposed, especially behind the exterior panels you replace. A better car to start with will certainly make for an easier job. With what I've seen in your pictures, you probably should really look closely at your frame rails. (they are replaceable too but not cheap) Keep the pictures coming