SHO-Z

I built mine out of an old metal office desk and added casters. If you look around they can be found cheap and are heck for stout. Where else can you get the drawers and all for less than scrap steel prices. If you are building a legged table, I always used a piece of 3" angle stiched welded down one side to work round pieces, ex pipefitter welder.

The 350z looked like a cross between a Audi TT and a 911 and took after dad the Audi and the 370z looks more like mom the 911. I saw it Friday in Phoenix and that was my impression. Better than the 350 but not great looking. I wish they would come out something more Austin Martin looking, with a longer hood! Phoenix Pics http://www.desertzassociation.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=5979#5979

Since it only leaks when the heater is on it could be the control valve. The heater is under pressure running or not. The system does not have a valve on both sides of the heater core, so it will be seeing system pressure when the car is running.

Heads Up to have a consulting engineering business requires a PE in most states. I got mine and have never stamped anything and really do not plan on going back to design work. I have a MET degree and with a PE no one cares if I do. There is really nothing on the exam that relates to the real world, petro chem piping/ mech that is. Another heads up NACES is trying to raise the education level to 5 years of school to take the PE. I think it is BS; most engineers that need one are in construction design and such.

Welcome to the oil patch. The works dirty but the moneys clean. My advice is to still get your EIT and PE. You might never need them but it will help in your advancement through your carrier. You might have a little trouble with the PE as far as having PE sign for your experience with Schlumberger. But once you get into the oil patch there will be a lot of opportunities down the road. Good Luck Wil

I made my own similar to that one using a 70s Trans Am Spoiler. The center section was a piece of cake to modify. The Plastic on the ends was a real pain. I think a 70s Camaro ends might work better if the plastic they are made out of is different.

Here are the dimensions on Webers http://www.teglerizer.com/dcoe/dimensions.htm

It has both, a mechanical on the engine and a electric by the tank used when the starter is engaged. I think my tank has a drain plug, I am not home to check for sure.

If you happen to see some of our senior citizens today ask if they are a vet and shake thier hand. Tell them personally your graditude for thier service. Wil USN Vet

If you want to live any longer, never work on a car using scissor jacks it is not safe! Spend the money and get a good set of jack stands. You can use plywood under the jack stands to get the final adjustments. Heck just measure the angle that the frame rails are and do the math and not worry about having the car perfectly level. For $5 you can't beat one of these for measuring angles. We are not building watches. http://ww2.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=34214

What's wrong with slugging wrenches and sledge hammers? Made a lot of money doing that BULL GANG work! Of course my back is gone and my ears ring all of the time. Looking back at it is good being a Field Engineer now.

Been there done that. My front was not that bad I just bolted it on and pop riveted it to the fender lip. The rear was as bad as yours. I had to grind some areas to get the best fit I could. Still had a lot of large gaps. I soaked fiberglass in resin and packed it in on the under side. It is messy and not fun. I filled the top with body filler. Use the flexible kind or it will crack. The side were not fun either. Had to rework the area where it rolls under the door for clearance. I used double backed tape used for putting trim on new cars. You can get it at auto paint stores. I used small flat head screws and the tape and the body filler to blend in. I am not a body man, but I did get them to work. It just takes time. Heck my car is a driver and not a show piece and at 60 mph on the road it looks OK.

Here is where I got my brackets http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=115339&highlight=brake

I have the same problem. Have never found a solution to it. I took the carbs apart and checked the transition jets and they were clean. Next time I take them apart will try blowing out the passages. In some ways I think part of mine might be weak spark. My 260 will not pass emissions at idle, high HC.

Some of the TR6 guys are running Jag 2" SU and 9 lbs boost on thier 2.4 liter engines.

Hi Will I do not work for them, but do work in the oil patch in Alaska. From what I have heard up here they do treat there people well. There is a whole lot of potential for engineers in the petro chem buisness. This will not be a 8 to 5 job sitting at a desk. Good luck. Wil

I had a 75 years ago. My alternator would charge as long as I was not using any lights or heater fan. The diode plate was bad, had a guy who rebuild alternator replace it and put in a set of brushes and never had another problem. Of course you would have to really look to find one of those types of auto electric shops today.

Send me your email address and I will send you some pics. The bell crank on the fire wall will need to be modified.

327 block + 283 crank = 302 Z28 the perfect marrage!

That is when Indy was fun, turbine cars, stock block against special racing engines. Now they are all the same engine, chassis and are almost as boring as a restritor NASCAR race.

Thought this might be interesting to add. This is from the Third Division off of Naples in WW2. An Army aircraft carrier! It is an LST that was converted by the army for spotter planes used for amphibious assaults. Talk about a one way trip.

I think this set up would be a whole lot easier! http://www.piercemanifolds.com/overstock.htm But when you have your talend I guess meaner is better!

No Guesses so here is the rest of the story. The sleeve valve engine is a Willys Knight and was a V12. The overhead cam engine is a Miller race car engine built by Wisconsin. The only engines I have ever seen that were made by Wisconsin where big old single cylinder engines for generators and such. And they were not fun to start with and old rope starter!

That is for when I am not running the supercharger. The supercharger has an electric cluch like and air condition compressor. When I turn off the supercharger air is drawn in through the air filter next to the supercharger. There will be a check valve down stream of the air cleaner.

Had the 260 10 years Paid $500 for the car did all of the work except the last paint myself have around $3200 in the car. Have a extra turbo engine and stuff on an engine stand. I figure that I have around $1000 in parts and pieces not installed on the car that is included in the price above.