j260z

i stripped my car completely (frame standing on jack stands) in about 3 days. but be prepared. i have at least 200 zip lock baggies of bolts all labeled. if you do not do that it takes about 3 days before you can't remember whether that bolt in your hand is for the steering wheel mount or for the gas tank strap!!!

is the road bumpy? if you are stiffening the shocks and going to a low profile tire you may get some wheel hop on a bumpy gravel road.

i don't think the offset changes because the disc should take up the same amout of space as the drum did.

the threaded end is the one you have to tap. just put the nut on about 2 turns then give it a light whack with a hammer and it should pop out the other side. really quite easy.

i'm pretty sure it's only unpatriotic if you don't have your hand half way down the door in a right hand turn!

the 2+2 has a r-200 diff and moustache bar which will be a good upgrade. as you said the driveshaft will be too long but everything else, suspension and drivetrain wise, should just bolt up.

check these guys out. http://www.cybersanford.net/ they are making replacement rubber parts now.

i'm 6'3" and my 260z fits me perfectly but when i sat in the 350 i also found the door height uncomfortably high. with my arm on the sill my elbow was as high, if not higher, than my chin! very odd

the flat top carbs suck. i took mine off and threw them away in favor of triple webbers. that made a huge difference. when my car was running the intake on those webbers made more noise than my 2 1/2" straight pipe exhaust. that cleared up all the smog crap and poor fuel delivery problems.

i'm in the same boat as georgia flash except that the inside of the windshield is covered in spit from making engine sounds with my tongue!!

let's take this one step further... what if we were to make a brake/gas pedal?... it might work well for burnouts.

stony if he's claiming to own your car you should get ahold of him and see if he wants to chip in for some of your mods. hell, the guys probably a millionaire and is just itching to pay for that clutch for you.

early 260 is the way to go. nice thin bumpers and nice tail and turn lights. almost as light as a 240 but with a rear sway bar. best of both worlds. IMHO

those flares make the car look like it is riding on mini wheels.

as you go up in years so does the weight. mostly due to government safety and emission restrictions. the bumpers got bigger due to crash safety and bumper shocks. the cars got more pollution controls added. the 280z got beefier struts, stub axles and rear end adding to overall weight. as displacement got bigger and air conditioning got added weight increased also. that is about all i can think of. hope it helps.

check out this site http://www.fastassdatsun.com/ those guys should be able to give you an overall weight.

thanks for showing me the fault in my logic. that's why i ask you guys questions before doing anything. i saves me a lot of trouble when i have a brain fart!! i must have gotten something mixed up in my mind when i was talking to this person.

i've seen a few posts about moving the pivot points on the front arms up an inch or so to make up for the cars being lowered but when i was at a z club show and shine in Edmonton last week i also saw an lt1 conversion in which the owner spaced the whole crossmember down 1/2 an inch. his reasoning was two fold. firstly, of course, was to correct the steering geometry and secondly to lower the engine and center of gravity slightly. what are peoples thoughts on this solution. i'm thinking of doing a RB26DETT conversion and i know it would be nice to get the engine as low and back as far as possible.

heh heh.... you said dirty!!!

sorry i misread your post. if you are planning to take the whole 280z assembly (meaning front and rear suspension) and move it to the 240z it should just bolt up perfectly. the only real difference from that point of view is that there is no rear sway bar mounts on the 240 but i have seen pictures of guys cars where they have fabbed up mounts for a rear bar on them. one other difference i just thought of is the 280 strut tubes are slightly longer and the isolators on the tops of the springs are longer than the 240 ones so in order to maintain roughly the same ride height you should swap the 280 isolators for the 240 ones. if you don't you'll probably raise the ride height of the 240 by about 1".

87 and later 300zxs came with the lsd. there are some 86 300zx turbos that came with the lsd also but not all. anything earlier came with the open diff. there were two different r200s. the ones from the 260 2+2s and 280s up to 83 came with the 10mm ring bolts then somewhere in 84 they change to 12mm ring bolts. as for the lsd units i know that the NA 300s came with the 3.7:1 but am not sure about the turbo cars.

i just went through this myself. the 240 and early 260z have strut tubes with a diameter of 2.05" whereas the 280z (i'm not sure of the late 260z) have strut tube diameters of 2.2". now that does not seem like much but i don't think that you would want any space for movement between the strut and the threaded aluminum tube. the difference in the diameters is just enough that you can't use the 240 coilover tube on the 280z struts but i think you could probably get away with wrapping the 240z strut tube with an aluminum or metal tape so you would get a snug fit with the 280z coilover threaded aluminum tube. somebody correct me if i am wrong.

it's been a while since i've done it but i believe the bolts on the fuel tank straps are 14mm and if you are removing the bumpers from the bumper mounts they should be 14mms also. if you're removing the bumper shocks those are either 17 or 19mm bolts.

i had thought of that also. when i looked at the subaru rack i found that it was about an inch longer than the stock one so it shouldn't change things too much. i looks like the miata rack would be about the same. the other thing i noticed is that the ball jointed pivot has a larger range of motion that the stock unit also. i'm not sure how much more as i have nothing to measure it with. fastcarz if you could confirm that the miata rack also has the same range of motion and it is roughly the same length from ball joint pivot to ball joint pivot for the stock and miata racks that would go a long way to convincing me that i should scrap my subaru rack for the miata rack.

racerxlite, i don't own that one. it's from a company called spirit garage in japan i believe. from what i can figure it is a custom job. i'm going to try building a set of flares like that for myself cause it looks so cool. i figure i should be able to run a set of 18x8s up front and 18x10s in the rear with coilovers and 8 inch springs.