HuD 91gt

Thanks for the pictures! Simple enough!

You could always use ms with your stock dizzy, as long as it's not a points system.

Call Delta, He's actually quite helpful on the phone. I've emailed before and never gotten a reply.

I am by no means an expert and I will delete this as soon as someone corrects me but.... A cam lifts a valve to it's max lift with every two rotations of the crank. This means, you want an increase in flow up and until max lift of your cam. Simple. Increase duration of your cam means the valve is open longer. A more extreme ramp of lift would mean the higher flow at higher lift would be much more desirable. I'd assume this is more applicable to a race engine. A street engine, which is meant for reliability and longevity will have lower lift and more then likely a softer ramp to be easier on the valvetrain. Long story short, max flow at your max lift in my mind makes the most sense. The numbers at lower lift are important, but your duration and how quickly your cam goes from Open to close determine how important those In-between numbers actually account for. Is there ever too much lift? Besides valve train wear and reliability, can you have too much? Of you have no increase in flow from a lift of .400"-.700" there is no need to go for a larger cam. Cap it at .400" and keep it open. Less wear, less movement, less noise, less heat. Having a chart with % increases doesn't mean much. I'd think absolute flow numbers would be what would help you choose a cam. This is all drunk ramble from a guy who's only dissassbled one or two motors. Eager to learn.

You won't reach your hp goals without the port job. Edit: Didn't realize he was aiming for 200 at the crank. RTFQ

Glad to see this progressing. It seems you were having similar problems as I was. Do you have any photos of how the manifold is pinned? I'm thinking maybe this is something I should do as well.

Funny you say that Madkaw. I'll be taking the SU''s off my Ported L28 and installing a stock FI manifold and megasquirt this fall. It would be nice to get proper needles for the current setup and get it on the dyno to do a nice comparison. Half the reason for going the Ms route is not dealing with the needles. Not many people seem to modify and keep the stock system. I'm curious to see how it turns out.

If you don't want to try port matching the gasket, you could try what is demonstrated in the Ztherapy video where he talks about making gaskets for SU insulators. He basically Slabs some silicon between two layers of siran wrap, then places the spacers on tops and loads them with weight. This makes a silicon gasket after a coue days of drying. Clean it up with a razor and your gtg. Beats fiddling with a gasket if you ask me.

Funny you bring up the brake tubing. I had made a rail for my SU's previously using brake lines and some T fittings. I want to clean up the rail, while using an aftermarket FPR and adding a guage into the mix as well. Going with a more modern type injector certainly isn't as era correct, but if You've ever seen Derek's work on the twin cam head it sure is gorgeous. I suppose I'm just looking to simply, yet not go the full modern way of things. I also like different Heres a Copper version. https://ca.images.search.yahoo.com/images/view;_ylt=A2KI9kD.2MhX4EkAhbmQ7olQ;_ylu=X3oDMTIzOWVjMG41BHNlYwNzcgRzbGsDaW1nBG9pZAMxYTdjM2E3N2M3YjU4Y2FhZTZjMTZkODY4YmI0ZDdjYgRncG9zAzE0BGl0A2Jpbmc-?.origin=&back=https%3A%2F%2Fca.images.search.yahoo.com%2Fsearch%2Fimages%3Fp%3DFuel%2BRail%2Bcopper%26fr%3Diphone%26fr2%3Dpiv-web%26tab%3Dorganic%26ri%3D14&w=600&h=224&imgurl=www.rsrich.force9.co.uk%2Fzetec-turbo%2Ffuelrail.jpg&rurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rsrich.force9.co.uk%2Fzetec-turbo%2FEngine.htm&size=+7.1KB&name=Injectors+and+FuelRail%3A&p=Fuel+Rail+copper&oid=1a7c3a77c7b58caae6c16d868bb4d7cb&fr2=piv-web&fr=iphone&tt=Injectors+and+FuelRail%3A&b=0&ni=21&no=14&ts=&tab=organic&sigr=11lelam46&sigb=13b9eifrm&sigi=11g6v0jd2&sigt=10nordr1l&sign=10nordr1l&.crumb=AqHrbFLwB7J&fr=iphone&fr2=piv-web

Hello, I'm looking to make a more era correct fuel rail for my L28. I know palnet makes some great ones at a great price but it isn't the look in going for. The most cost effective would be using copper tubing, although I've heard copper can get brittle after ears of use. After how long would I start thinking of replacement? Another option is using a distribution block and running individual lines to each injector, but a cap would have to be machined for each injector. I can't seem to see anything pre made for this. A third option is using the same setup as above, yet running the L28 barbed style injector and running line from the hard line. Any other ideas?

Edit: delete. Double post

There is some movement within the mounts which bolt to the block. Could probably gain some clearence there.

Fill us in on the information you come up with. I could be in for one as well.

Could the T5 transmission mount slightly different causing the whole assembly to be tilted forward more then stock? That's my only thoughts. The picture also doesn't look like the swaybar bushings fit all that great. Do you have picture as to where they are mounted on your control arms? May seem trivial, but I've never done anything dumb before... Ha Proper length endlinks?

Depending how quickly you can get them, and where in Europe I may be able to pick up, or atleast ship locally.

I've been searching for one of those shifter buttons for ages. Was planning on using a resin or urethane on top.

Glad to see this is still in the works. I Knabbed the original 260z transmission and a few spare parts off you a couple years back now. the auto to manual swap was a a success and it's still shifting great! I'm a little skeptical it only has 4800 miles, but maybe they were track miles... 2nd gear can be a bit rough.

A B16 in a CRX is a hot little combo. Having a little experience with Hondas 15 years ago, I'd say your car with the stock motor is probably similar to a CRX Si in stock form. First step is getting the wideband on there to see how yours is even running. With a stock cam, and the smaller valves (and high compression) you should have a torquey little motor, but it won't have the same feeling as your CRX. They pulled pretty hard past 4k. Do you have a stock manifold? I have no experience but I've heard the 6-1 header can seriously rob low end grunt. Your head probably won't flow enough in it's current form to take advantage of it's benifits. Work with what you have and try to get it all to work together.

People rave about how little their turbo swaps cost them. If your going for reliability it's not that cheap. A NA build, built by a reputable builder will get you your power goals for cheaper I'm betting.

Wow. The fact someone even attempted this blows my mind. If there was a way to thoroughly inspect the item it would be wild to see mass produced crankshafts one day. I'm scared for the first few buyers.

In fact it was a joke. Sometimes people keep those to themselves too. ...but I knew I was stirring the pot.

Tony, it's ok to be wrong sometimes I read it the same way.

They probably mean slip joints on the collector pipes.

Nice looking packaging. Your right, getting proper float height is a PITA. I don't know if I'd spend $100 (Canadian argh) on something some so simple but in sure there is a small market out there. Especially if your product works with all types of SU's.

Great pictures. Thanks for posting your progress.