HuD 91gt

Perhaps someone can help out with the thread diameter. I thought it was 1/16th, but perhaps 1/8" is correct. This is the NPT version. BPT would have to be sourced online but is the proper thread pitch. https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-metal-pipe-tees/=1a1dxdo

Can be purchased at your local autoparts or plumbing store. It is British Pipe, but NPT does work if you work it nicely.

Started watching your Porsche series. Really neat to see you attempt the interior and paint work. Things I attempt that never work out as well as a professional. But the pride you get from doing it on your own! Great job, lots of respect.

Makes me feel like an idiot for running my recent 3/8" lines in the stock 240z location. Didn't end up taking the tranny out (Would have been way easier), but the whole rear suspension was gone. Ugh.

My car would do the same when cold and trying to rev. Aka Lean condition. With proper float levels, and a good idle mixture it is possible racier needles have been installed in the past (Do you have a wideband o2?). SM needles or the like, like to idle very very rich to get a proper mixture in the power band. If your setting your mixtures at idle for stoich, then they will be running lean everywhere else. Richen up the mixture, and maybe order some new factory needles from Z therapy.

I had a bad experience with SI valves. If you do this, ensure you are using bronze guides. This is a must and fairly well known with most builders. My builder did not and it cost me.

Split mine up into 2 separate spade connectors. I believe 3 in each connector. Then both spades grounded to one of the starter bolts. I find their literature hard to understand. Your not alone.

They will easily mount to any DCOE manifold currently made for the L series...

Both are fine, but TPS are TB specific.

I put a resonator in my system and it just makes it a little quieter The popping comes from your fuel mixtures. Enhanced by your cam which is less emission sensitive I'm sure. You may not have this issue with the twice pipes, as the exhaust pulses are split between the pipes. Each pulse is alternating between each separate exhaust system. My own theory at least. What are you using for carburetors. Stock needles or modified for your cam?

I've had that thought before, but I do believe there is a large difference between fuel cut and just a lean dangerous mixture. One being, there is no fuel to be lean... No fuel to burn.

I did the same as Richard. Mine was originally an automatic and I had to remove the "full throttle" switch to get full cable throw. Works perfect now in "mock up" form. Road test to come.

Can you pull the plugs after idling? Might give an indication of no spark vs no fuel....

Are you wanting this for originality? A simple fix could be to switch ground and power wires. Fan should turn the other way.

I was amazed the difference the uncoated headers made vs. the stock manifold. Everything was hot on that side of the engine as well.

440cc from the early turbo supra. Low Z

Great to hear its running. Youve got me worried now with my supra injectors relying on thr PWM in MS2

Sounds exactly like vaporlock. Mine would start when having the same issue, but as you said would take many more seconds. I was running SUs, ended up wrapping the fuel lines in foil insulation tape. Got rid of most of the issues. Problem started after adding a non coated header. I wouldnt put another one on without having it coated or wrapping it.

Webers haha. Your cross reading too many threads too many problems to troubleshoot at once.

What I get from that paragraph is tunerstudio will create its VE targets to something that it thinks it will be close to your target AFR. Once you fine tune your VE table to hit your desired AFRs, you can then adjust your AFR target and it will modify your entire VE table. Does that make any sense? I'm in the same boat as you, trying to decipher what the literature means.

Very nice!

I just read your last post in this message, and it seems strange to be using the matchbox on the distributor. The whole point of MS is to make it tuneable using the MS for as much as you can. You should be able to delete the matchbox completely.

I read somewhere that Kurk is no longer doing harnesses. I'm curious what's up as he was always very helpful, even to those who didn't purchase a harness. Hopefully he is ok. I do know one thing, is that he always wanted to use the L28ET distributor for his setups. Chances are your is set up like that too. There is only one way to figure it out though. Figure out what version of MS you have, which software and open it up. Lots of reading and track it all down. In the end you be better off as you will understand how it all works.

Do you need a check valve? I don't have one in the system i'm building either!?!?

Wow. Thats jet leg for you. Must have forgotten I was searching.