Chickenman

Found the link for SS fittings ( if you need them for high pressure ) . It's a Swagelock #500-6-5AN. . Which is what I assume Chris wants to do. The VW/Audi guys are using this Swagelock part on the 8mm ( 5/16" ) factory 1.8T fuel rails. I'm thinking they must be using -6 hose as well. Only issue I can see is how do you go from a -5 female coupling that mates with this to a -6 nipple that fits -6 AN AA braided hose. Might be more trouble than it's worth. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?8345249-How-to-add-AN-6an-fittings-to-your-stock-fuel-rail&p=102021753#post102021753

Miles, your first Link worked fine after I went to the VIGLINK site and opted out of their Tracking system. First time I've run across this.

http://support.viglink.com/hc/en-us/articles/205077864-Why-is-VigLink-rewriting-my-affiliate-links-Why-are-my-links-redirecting-through-api-viglink-com-api-

Has something changed on this site recently. Members are getting a lot of Redirects to a site called VIGLINKS. Apparently this is an advertising site for Forum affiliates and is associated with Google. Doing a copy paste to a site such as Summit racing results in the Forum redirecting to this POS advertiser. Can the Web administrators do something about this?

Frack Me!! I don't know WTF is going on, but I keep getting redirected to that damned VIGLINK search site. Edit: Just did a search and it looks like VIGLINK is an affiliate to some Forums for advertising... It's popping up all over the place. Something for the Forum administrators to address??? Edit2 : Just started a thread on the Forums " Website problems " asking about this.... Edit3: Might have been the new Video Card or Game I just installed. VIGLINK seems to be associated with Google advertising and Google Drive. Interesting because my new Gigabyte GEForce 1050TI graphics card wanted to install Google Chrome, Toolbar and Google Drive. I opted out but it seems it still installed this advertising and tracking software. It was either the video card drivers or an old version of Splinter Cell. Either way, it's a PITA!!!

Picture of said fuel rail ends? Are hose barbs removable? IE: Pipe thread? If not, cut the barbed end off and use a AN Tube adapter fitting. You can either use a SS compression fitting or a flared collar fitting. Male or Female fittings available. Easy Peasy. These are compression fittings, with aluminium ends. . This link should work just as an example.: https://www.summitracing.com/int/search/part-type/tube-adapter-fittings/fitting-size-1/minus-6-an/fitting-size-2/5-16-in Test: https://www.summitracing.com/ XRP carries a good lin of special purpose fittings. Good quality and American made: Link to XRP full catalog. PDF format. Page 36 part # 992005 would likely work. http://www.xrp.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/XRP-new-Product-Catalog.pdf You can get compression tube adapters and AN ( flare style ) SS Tube collar adapters as well. I saw some in a post about a week ago. I'll see if I can find the link.

Link does a redirect to VG-link for me. FireFox 50.10.

^ What they said. A nice cam in the 270 to 280 duration with .480 to .500" lift really wakes these engines up.... big time. I have a F54 L28, flat tops and 280 cam. Engine has a nice lope at 1,000 rpm pulls like an SOB all the way from approx 3,000 right past 7,000. Stock cam falls flat on it's face around 5,500 to 6,000 max. Keep the lift under .480" and you can use stock springs ( New of course ) . Just change to shorter valve seals. I calculated CR at around 10.3 with my engine using online calculators. I head has been shaved about .050". BTW: Oz-Data calculator is off for L28's. Calculator has wrong Deck height for flat tops. Flat-Tops are +.022" to +.024" above deck height. Not -.020" as OZ Data calculators is configured for. My car runs fine on Washington State 92 Octane with 32 to 34 degrees total mechanical timing. Get about 25mpg on highway with 5 speed and 3.90 gears.

Common problem on Rotary cars. Can happen in Canada with piston engines as well. Try a set of fresh plugs. Wouldn't hurt to throw some Gas-line antifreeze in the tank as well. When I used to ice race we would throw on a Block heater, then remove the Battery and plugs. The Battery would stay in the Hotel room with us and the plugs went on the Heat register. Even then it was difficult starting in -30 to -35C weather . The factory 1975 and 1976 Trignition systems are pretty weak sauce as well. Not much better than points as far as ignition output. Consider upgrading to a Matchbox Dizzy or an aftermarket Ignition box like a Crane or MSD. Cold fuel doesn't vaporize very easily and you need a high energy spark to light it off. Cold fuel, fuel fouled plugs and a weak igntion system can = Frustration.

For the water Banjo's you can use aluminum washers. Factory part on Euro turbo cars. Softer than most common Copper washers found at Napa, Autozone etc.

I use R12A from Redtek in my Z . Direct replacement for R12 plus it's more efficient than R134. Lower head pressures and colder temps than R134 as well. " R12 " has been banned in Canada for a long, long time. I've used RedTek R12A for about 10 years in my Audi A4. Zero issues and freezing cold temps. Mots of my friends use it for a quick charge up as well. R12A is a very common item in Canada. Should be in the USA as well. 6oz can ( 18oz equivalent ) costs me $6.85 CDN. http://www.redtek.com/home.html Tech Info: http://www.redtek.com/techinfo_refprop.html

I managed to find a supplier in Canada that had stock on the correct 4 seasons receiver/drier( #33286 ) for 75 and 76 280Z's. These have the correct positioning of the connections as in your pictures. Price was dirt cheap as well. I'll have to look through my receipts and will post the link a bit later. These are normally very hard to find. The later styles are far more plentiful Edit: It was from a company called " The Wrench Monkey ". They still show them in stock for only $63.29 CDN. I'd send them an E-mail to confirm stock levels. https://www.thewrenchmonkey.ca/products/auto-parts/four-seasons/33286/

Gotta agree. Australia and NZ are a hot bed for innovative motorsport products. Good quality products and some very smart blokes there. What else would you expect from the land of V8 Supercars and " The Great Race "/ The Bathurst 1000 is definitely on my Bucket List.

Compression depends on fuel quality. I see you are in New Zealand. Looks like 98 RON is available which would allow you to run up to 10 CR fairly easily. That's about 93 AKI in North America. A nice 270-280 degree cam from Isky, Schneider, Sunbelt or other reputable Cam grinders will work nice. If you keep the lift under .500" it a bit easier on the Valvetrain. Brand new Nissan Factory springs are still available and the latest revision will handle up to .480" lift. Don't go crazy on Valve spring pressures on a Daily Driver. Excessive pressures can cause cam lobe wear. Make sure you use a high ZDDP content oil. That's very important. There are special oils made for older engines with Flat Tappet cams. Modern Energy Star oils do not have enough ZDDP content for high performance camshafts. Most 10w-40 to 20w-50 oils have higher ZDDP numbers as they are not Energy Star rated. Always check retainer to valve seal clearance. You may want to machine the underside of the factory retainer, or the top of the guides to get a bit more clearance. Shorter valve seals are also available. You will need thicker Lash Pads to go with the Camshaft. Best way is to buy a complete cam kit ( Springs, retainers, Lash Pads ) from someone like Isky or Schneider. Rocker Arm geometry and the condition of the Rocker Arms themselves are critical. If the old Rocker arms are in good condition, they can be re-used. Or buy New FACTORY Nissan rockers. They are still available . Nissan Part # 13257-W0300 They are not cheap... but worth the investment. Be wary of aftermarket rockers. There is a lot of junk on the market and a poor heat treat can cost you a whole motor. Be wary of some companies that " Regrind rockers". Too many horror stories of shops re-surfacing the rockers and going through the heat treat. That can cost you an engine as well. Get some good books on these engines. More to come, but I have to run....

Wow...just Wow!!

Thanks for the link John. Excellent info. Bookmarked. The motion ratios are closer than I thought

Spring frequency also comes into play. The higher the road speed, the higher the spring frequency ( and spring rate ) must be. That's partially why Road race cars can use much higher spring rates than when set up for Autocross. RebekahsZ speed trial car is a good example of a high speed car ( 170+ MPH ) needing more wheel and spring rate. Fred Puhn's " How to make your car handle " explains the mathematical relationship between suspension frequency and road speed. But generally, as speed goes up, so must suspension frequency, There are different values for road cars and race cars. Comfort vs handling etc...

Actually it's wheel rate that you're concerned about and that is a function of spring rate and control arm or strut ratio. For a front engine RWD car it is nothing new to have a higher wheel rate up front than in the rear. In fact this very common as the weight of the engine usually results in a forward weight bias and that requires more spring to hold the front end up. Weight transfer under braking also requires a higher wheel and spring rate up front to prevent excessive nose dive. What is unusual is to have a rear wheel rate that is higher than the front on any front engine car. Personally, I've been racing, autocrossing and hill climbing for over 40 years and have never driven a front engine car that has a lower front wheel rate than the rear. With big HP RWD cars you usually try and make the rear wheel rate as soft as possible to put power down on corner exit. One other thing to note is that the strut ratio on the rear of the Z design is not the same as the front. There is more offset from the tire centerline to the spring centerline on the rear struts, so this lowers effective spring rate. Have a close look at the hub design. The front wheel rate is almost 1 to 1. The rear is less. I don't have the exact figures, but I seem to remember reading that 1.3 to 1 for the rear wheel rate ratio was close. That makes sense as the Z has near 50/50 weight distribution and 250 lb/in spring rate on the rear would work out to about 192 lbs wheel rate at a 1.3 ratio. If ratio is higher ( 1.35 or 1.4 ) then the effective wheel rate drops even lower. So 200 lb front springs and 250 lb rear springs, effectively works out to the same wheel rate front and rear. Z cars are also known to be wayyyyy too soft in the front, even in street form. Mkaes for wallowy handling nose dive under braking and nose lift under acceleration. Siffen up the front springs by a good margin and the handling is dramatically improved.

IC-2000 Glue by Bob Smith Industries is used by VW/Audi as a factory w/strip adhesive. It is readily available at many Hobby Shops and is a favorite for bonding Rubber to metal and wood. http://www.bsi-inc.com/hobby/ic_2000.html You can order it on Amazon.com: https://www.amazon.com/Bob-Smith-Industries-BSI-118-IC-2000/dp/B0188IHONQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1476930715&sr=8-3&keywords=IC+2000

Agree with JHM, but I'd lean towards the 250lb/in rate. 200 lbs/in is a bit soft IMHO. It's the shock valving that really determines what the ride quality is like. 250lb/in is not excessive with an LT1 and Tremec T56. The T56 weighs quite a bit by itself.( 125 to 130 lbs with shifter and bellhousing ) Just for interest. The Datsun 510 crowd in the PNW commonly run 300lb/in front springs with 4 cylinder engines..... on the Street. Surprisingly the ride is not uncomfortable at all. But shock valving is critical. Koni's Yellows or Bilstein Sports seem to be the most popular with some using custom valved Race Koni's. The510Realm has some really good suspension Guru's on it. I have Eibach Pro Kit springs in my 280Z, and the front spring rate is way too low. And it's a progressive rate which is just stoopid on the front. ( Car came that way from PO ). I'm looking at switching to Coil-Overs and starting with 250/lb/in. Probably going with Koni Race shocks or possibly the Toyota MR2 or VW Rabbit shocks. The Race shocks cost a bit more, but have better valving from what I've heard.

Did you actually measure the resistance of the injectors with an Ohm meter? That particular Denso injector came in both high and low impedance versions. Both with the same Part number. Don't go by colors ( Red or Purple ) as that can change from heat soak on used Injectors. http://www.robietherobot.com/storm/fuelinjectorguide.htm http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/rotary%20pages/injector%20folder/injector.html

Bolts right in. All mounting points are the same as a Z and uses the same belt. Terminal on back of alternator is different though. A lot of Mazda products use the same connector. Miata's, Proteges, Mini Vans etc. I grabbed one from the local Pick a Part.. $2 You can also get them new a repair pigtail on E-Bay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/REPAIR-PLUG-HARNESS-2-WIRE-PIGTAIL-Fits-MAZDA-323-626-Miata-MX-6-RX-7-Protege-/301227362561?hash=item46228cc901:g:TIEAAOSw3ydVlIyo&vxp=mtr I used the Z Car creations wiring artcle. Works just fine. http://www.zcarcreations.com/howto/voltreg.htm Edit. Just noticed I said 1985 Maxima in my post. I actually used a 1985 300ZX 70 amp alternator. The 85 300ZX 70 amp alternator has a single groove pulley. The 85 Maxima has a serpentine pulley that you have to swap over. The Maxima alternators are available in 80 and 90 amp versions though, which is why they probably have to use a serpentine belt. . Rock Auto has some great deals. The Remy alternators at Rock Auto are good quality.

Check it with a mechanical gauge to ensure pressure is OK as others have mentioned. If pressure OK, replace the OP sending unit. Try and get an OEM Nissan part. Beware of cheap off shore brands. I worked for as a Nissan Parts dealer in the 70's through 90's and the oil pressure sensors often failed. Never sold a single OP gauge unit in 20 years for a Z ( or any other model ), but lots of oil pressure sending units. They usually failed with a low or Zero pressure reading at idle. Sometimes they were erratic. All signs of a failing OP sending unit. BTW, a healthy engine should show a minimum of 10 to 15 psi. Oil pressure at 800 rpm with 10w-30 oil at operating temperature. If you're below 10 psi at 800rpm your engine is probably getting pretty tired, and bearing clearances have probably opened up ( worn bearings ) . Original poster has a newly rebuilt engine, so if clearness are correct, oil pressure should not be an issue. Golden rule is 10 psi per 1,000 rpm ( Hot ). Always check with an accurate Mechanical guage. The factory electrical OP gauge and sending unit are NOT highly accurate. Edit: OP lives in Nevada. Extreme ambient temps there. I would suggest using a good 20w-50 for that climate. These are an older design engine, with larger bearings clearances than you see specified on modern cars. Beware of running too thin of oil. Personally, I run a 10w-40wt Joe Gibbs synthetic in the PNW ( BC ). This is on a brand new engine. We can some pretty high ambient temps in BC... but nothing compared to Nevada. I don't run the car in winter.

^ Agreed. Cut off wheel is the way to go. Sometimes you need to flatten the last coil to make it seat better in the spring cup. You will have to heat the last 1/4 to 1/2 coil with a Torch to do this. However, it really doesn't affect spring rate a great deal, as the last coil is usually " inactive " if flat wound.

Glad you got it sorted. Sometimes the simplest things can drive you nuts. Do you have a link to your FB page build? I'd like to have a look see. Thanks. Richard