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heyitsrama

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About heyitsrama

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    Newark, CA

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  1. Just a heads up on the u-joints, i ended up ruining a pair of half-shafts after trying to replace the u-joints myself. IIRC the balance of the shaft is done by the different thickness c-clips that are used to lock the ujoint to shaft. IMO if you need to replace the u-joints consider having a shop replace them with some Splicer ujoints as the shop should have the different thickness c-clips to balance the shafts after. I think the driveshaft does not have replaceable ujoints for the 280z models, in that case a upgrade/replacement should be sourced.
  2. I've been eyeballing k24's as a potential swap if my current motor goes out the door. Seems like a great platform. Why the dry sump? Just because you can? or does it help with clearance?
  3. I wonder if the frame will flex on load and cause the steering intermediate shaft to bind….
  4. @socorob Where there a lot of vibrations in the steering coupler that you can feel by removing the rubber/poly puck that is in the OEM setup?
  5. Its hard to find the regulators, my regular had a bent arm that was causing it to roll at an angle, bending the arm straight addressed this issue, it might be worth removing it and posting some pictures.
  6. I used a Ultra-Power PS153 that i got from rockauto.com, it was $3.33 no complaints, the gauge works great for the past 4 years. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/59905-71-240z-oil-pressure-sending-unit-not-working/?tab=comments#comment-547841 I don't see them on sale on RockAuto anymore, i see the BnN one for $15 bucks.
  7. I see what you mean with the triangulated stop in the front, it make a world of difference of feel in the front of the car. I feel like there is ambiguity with the rear of the car, on some hairpin turns I feel that the rear is squatting and I can’t tell if it’s going to get close to sliding (slid the turn after the straight at thunder hill west CW. 2 times today.) Progressive eibach springs on genetic KYB struts, 3.36 non-lsd. On the plus side got my PR time down to 1:45, still feel slow at shit. >.> maybe need more track time.
  8. howdy, do you have the metal fuel fill neck, and the rubber section that goes to the tank? pics? 😬
  9. Funny I was just looking at the same thing, can probably build something very similar that slips inside the tube and allows the flap to rotate downward, but weld in a tab to limit the flow up the fill neck. I think todays project will be inspecting the fillneck for more cracks. woah woah woah. look at this, https://www.ebay.com/itm/DATSUN-260Z-280z-9-74-6-76-COUPE-FILLER-NECK-SUPERCLEAN/143555459622?hash=item216c927a26:g:4g4AAOSwNsdebXBL This looks like there is a little flapper on the 74.5+ cars.
  10. I guess a tig welder really should be the next thing i look at getting, it seems to be a 'for life' tool. @Twisted46 is it possible to get some closer picture of your t3 mount in the rear? I need to finish the firewall plate and make something that holds the 2 rods that come from the center of the trunk. For the trunk it looks like the way t3 does it is they want you to drill a hole and throw a nut on from under the car, seems you'd be drilling right above the differential. I think i also should have used a studded rod end that will hold the rods that go down
  11. Any idea what the seatbelt bracket is going to look like? Great welding by the way, very clean.
  12. You can remove the screw in the backside of the arm, remove the moon/sun switch on the underside, then flip the mirror upside down in the arm, it works well. I’m 6’4” it’s the only way I can see.
  13. It might fit, there are wiring differences between the two.
  14. @jhm I noticed there was a steady leak when i filled up the tank and parked the car on the driveway, it was dripping from the middle of the body, between the body and the fuel tank, right below the license plate... But that was on a slant, when i was at the track i noticed it was dripping at the corner of the rear wheel well on the passenger side. i think the leak could be at the fill neck, perhaps on the inside where is enters the body hole for the fill? I was using a flashlight to shine light inside and see for a hole, did not spot anything. ill test out with the bent tabs, that's a great ca
  15. I ran into three issues in my last track event. 1. overall trust in the chassis, although the NCRCA helped with the turn in and significantly reduced the bump steer, the chassis still feels like it’s flexing a load. I think it’s time for a triangulated front chassis brace to help address this. 2. damn fueling issue, I realize that there is a leak in my system, I think it occurs at the fuel filer neck. I noticed fuel on the quarter panel, and coming out at the fill as well. I think the actually fill tube might need to be replaced. So can’t let the fuel get below 1/2 tank, can’t
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