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88dangerdan

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Everything posted by 88dangerdan

  1. They all look good. Could you design the set where Rebello and 240z line up horizontally across the 2 gauges when installed. I think that would compliment both if that is what you're after.
  2. If you have done a 5lug swap my son has these WEDS for sale 18×10 & 18×11 (-10) offset all the way around
  3. I stand corrected, I just got back from looking at a '75 and noticed the door latch mechanism was the same as my early 260z. I had been misinformed and apologize for passing on the same misinformation. Daniel
  4. 7/74 is right around the switch date of the two different styles. This is the earlier 260z style whereas the latch is on the outside of the door frame. The later 260z has the mechanism inside the door frame, which if you're swapping the whole door you would need the same later model year and I believe the 75-76 door might work
  5. The door latch/catch is the quickest way to tell if the doors are the same.
  6. Yes,the door on your car originally had the same trim, that at one point was removed. So if they are both from an early 260z it will work.
  7. A picture of what brackets in the engine bay that are not necessarily needed would be great. Since there is no engine in there at this time, it would be nice not to have to go back and remove stuff after I already had Bay finished out and engine in. Of course all this at your convenience. Thanks Daniel
  8. Will be following seeing how my son decided to claim a complete '75 280z (minus the motor) that was given to me for the cost of the tow ($25) to get it to my house last week. He has a complete rb20det lined up to put in it. As soon as dad gets it stripped and in a primer stage.
  9. Maybe this is better, walked right by them to take pictures of the one in my car
  10. Hope this helps, if need another view let me know Daniel
  11. http://lh4.ggpht.com/_h0T954qJFdU/TD4dOC9RVpI/AAAAAAAAGIw/A2iys86oAjM/s640/S30-097-01.JPG #5 in this diagram is what you are looking for, correct?
  12. Thanks again TonyD, doesn't quite go with the look I'm after so to the shelf it goes. Daniel
  13. Tyler - rod coupler is what we call them
  14. I don't think the 77-78 will work on the 75-76. There's just enough difference to throw off hole alignment. Big difference is where the seat belt attaches, 77-78 is on the strut towers, where as with the 75-76 are still in the riser.
  15. This should kinda give you an idea, depending where your first hole was
  16. http://lh6.ggpht.com/_h0T954qJFdU/TD4crefeXqI/AAAAAAAAGEg/Z_cfiFY8E34/s640/S30-054Q-01.JPG
  17. No problem with obstructing the headlights Daniel
  18. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1072485 This might be a good alternative also
  19. I have this one available Pm me if interested Daniel
  20. I didn't think about it possibly obstructing the headlights. I temporarily put it on this hood for contrast for the pictures. I'll check it out on my car this evening. The bent under part that attaches to the hood is spot on the width and shape of the hood. Then widens once it comes over the top. I appreciate the feedback. I'll report back on the possibility of it obstructing the headlights. Daniel
  21. Okay, so I've come upon this and a quick Google search (Web & Images) did not show anything. Just curious if anyone else has seen one and / or any information they could share. I'm about 99% sure it was made for the S30 hood. Just by the way it fits Thanks Daniel
  22. https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/cto/5239249924.html
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