BillZ260

F! That's gotta smart! Glad it wasn't worse man, close call!

Finally got around to getting this up. We got a new iMac this week, which made things a bit more convenient. Unfortunately U-Tube would not upload for whatever reason so it's on Google Video. Why they aren't yet merged I have no clue! Oh, funny thing is, it was almost 1 year to the day from my first video of getting it started Started (I think this was Dec 29th of 2006) http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=4677787379056410275g Running (Dec 28th 2007): http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=2742281494285840857&hl=en I have one more that a friend captured w/ his HD camera, haven't seen that one yet but I'll get it up when I can. Let me know what you think

Cleaned up the trees, and just finished some more searching/reading. Seems like this is a pretty common issue, at least I'm not the first person it's happened to. Problem is not many of the threads out there comment on solutions, most "upgraded" to something else. This Jeep thread a guy lost 5th due to reason Terry mentioned before, he said it happened like 2 or 3 times, the C-clip (the new one was a pain to stick in there w/ my cheapy HF snap ring pliers!) The way he explained it happening sounds just like what happened. No noises, just lost 5th. http://forums.jpmagazine.com/70/810092/jeep-transmission/i-lost-5th-gear/index.html Another guy with and V8 RX7 had his syncro/gear cluster jam together, I don't think this is it, since he couldn't actually stick it in the 5th shifter location. http://www.v8rx7forum.com/158431-post1.html I'll keep my eyes open, wait for Kevin's comments, then figure out when I'm going to pull the trans. I guess I"ll pull the motor too...JEESH!

Looks much better, sits good, like the front end better now too. Flat black looks pretty tough if done right, but not with a limpy mirror HAR!

Thanks for the extra input guys, the more I think about it, the more I DON'T want to drive it. I sent a note to Kevin at the GearBox.org to see what he thinks about it. Mike, when I hear back from Kevin, I'll probably be ordering at least some pieces from him. I'll see what he suggests for a tougher 5th. Terry, THAT would be a little ray of sunshine if the C clip popped off! This morn I was skimming through some other sites looking for related issues and I read a note that said the farther you space you gears, the less torque it will handle. I don't know if that's true or not, but if it is, you would be weakening your top end. I just didn't realize that it was so touchy if I put the hammer down! Gotta go clear some more trees out of the back yard...

T-4! Thats exactly what I thought when it happened or dunnoo.. Terry, so you think once the first one started to go, they all just ripped off? It's not that I don't think it can happen, I'm just surprised that you can't use any power at all! I mean I know I was under 2K when this happened, maybe right at but definitely not over. Looking at your pictures there (thanks for posting by the way) those teeth are really fine, and I guess there was no grinding because they are housed in that expansion casing away from the "T-4". As for the Shaft end play, I'm pretty sure I had mine set w/ in tolerance of what the manual stated, but I don't think I bought that billet retainer plate, looks like maybe I should have w/ my torque supposedly much higher then my HP. ( I say supposedly because the the DD2000 #'s which were 300 HP / 400 Tq ) I'll play with it today to see if i can think of a way to confirm. I hope that all the teeth sheered right off and won't flow with the tranny fluid back into the main case! That could cause me some problems eh?

No loud bang, nothing! Actually sounded like the clutch started slipping. I was on the highway, everything is running fine, was accelerating a bit in 5th and it just let go. 1-4 shift fine, reverse is there too. I don't remember if that 5th speed is keyed to the shaft it's sitting on or not. I am guessing the key let go but who knows. It's been almost 2 years since I put it together. Since it's not affecting anything else yet, it's probably going to be a while before I get around to dropping the trans and fixing this. On the bright side, the car is running strong, I still think it is not getting enough gas sometimes, i have a new accelerator pump to swap. Everything else seems great, no overheating, no weird gremlins or anything else (other than a few electrical)...SO FAR...

Where'd you get it? Can you show some detail shots of how it's attached to the rad and formed and all that? I have the same set up, just w/ out a shroud. Not having any cooling issues, but I like the look, and seems much more efficient.

Lazy as in is takes a while to lock up?

Did you get the Shroud from JTR too? I havn't seen that pc?

SO it's not an R200? HMM. Anyone know if I could swap out the internals to my R180? Thanks.

Feel dumb for posting this, please delete, I'll read up alot more next time I start brousing Ebay... States it's an R180 Clutch type LSD but comparing it to Cyrus's exellent Sticky above, it looks like an R200 with a slightly different rear cover than in the sticky thread. I'm looking for an LSD 180 that I can do a simple bolt in swap, and since I' don't plan on putting huge tires on the car any time soon, I think the 180 should hold up to daily driving. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-89-94-240sx-Cusco-LSD-CLUTCH-TYPE-4-08-1-R180_W0QQitemZ130192523276QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item130192523276 This one looks like a much better deal... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-SILVIA-S13-VLSD-NISMO-4-4-1-w-axles-240SX-S13-R200_W0QQitemZ170187118802QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item170187118802#ebayphotohosting

I have the metal core gaskets and they are pretty thick. I'm not sue that solution will work w/ these covers, as the walls are almost perfectly square. I'll measure to make sure. I think i'll hammer a small dimple at that point in the VC. Thanks!!!

Sorry, thought I had read those posts.... Thanks!

Datsun327, Muskrat Did you all install this stuff? How has it been working? Pictures or anything else? Thanks.

Here are some shots from Yesterday. Please ignore the coolant...ahemm.....

Put about 10 miles or so on her yesterday. I noticed the motor really starts to pull hard only after about 4-4.5K, dunno if it's the cam or the carb. The car is running very well, and I am extreamly happy with how easy it is to drive around town, how it can litteraly just SCREAM when I get on it (I am really supprised how bad ass those generic turbo mufflers sound at RPM). The only thing that is bugging me is the complete and udder lack of traction through 3rd, and my brakes. I really need to install the adjustable proportioning valve because I don't thing the rears are working at all. Oh and the DRAIN i feel after getting out of the car once the adren stopps flowing!!! he he he

I did go w/ these and like the way they look BUT, the valve cover with out the breathers is flexing in and out with the engine pushing air inside. It's very slight and easier to feel than see. What's happening is that there is one little point in the center that flex's just enough to come in contact w/ the tip of one of the roller rocker arms. I thought that one of my valves needed adjustment becuase this is quite loud at RPM. So I pulled the VC off and discoverd the mark on the inside. The mark isn't a gouge, more like a rub, and the corner or the rocker that is touching dosn't look damaged but the noise and the fact that there is contact bothers me. I guess the best solution is to dimple that point out some? Just wondering if any one else has has this issue, and what they did to resolve. Thanks fellas, this little Z is a screamer

Anyone see what it went for?

Glad you got it out. What I remember about puling mine appart was that NO WHERE in the manual did it state that you have to tear up the front main bearing to get the main shaft out. Seemingly took me forever to bite the bulltet and cut the cage, pull out the bearings and only then was removal simple. I don't know why it took me so long, I had a replacment bearing. Now I remember why I didn't have the same issue you had with 5th gear, I swapped out complete a complete gearset and mainshaft. (V6 set was originally in there).

Bumpy

plan on getting one soon w/ xmas $$. Which model did you go with and why? I'm lookin gat the one for the xbox 360 since i have one. I was wanting one to control my HTPC as well but I might skip that funtionality if i move that box to another room...

After much putting off I finally pulld out my receipts last night and tallied up what I had, and what I could remember, came out to just over 13K including the cost of the car. (*Not shown below is sales tax for any of the line items from the receipts) (**Also not shown are the tools purchased for jobs not previously done) This isn't everything but it's pretty close and gives a pretty good view of what has gone where so far. Also, the generic category's could be argued here and there shifting the %'s a bit but here it is. Car...........$1,900.00 Conversion.$500.84 Motor........$2,941.51 Trans........$1,910.59 Drive Line...$287.60 Exhaust.....$628.65 Fuel..........$546.79 Chassis......$78.32 Safety.......$269.95 Brakes.......$957.67 (includes wheels/tires) Suspension.$665.64 Wiring........$429.05 Hardware...$98.15 (this has to be short) Interior......$786.60 TOTAL!!!!!!!$12K I'm not really freaked out about it, it's a lot of $$ but the main thing for me is the journy of the project, learning how to do all this stuff my self, which 98% of the work has been done by me, alone. That's how I want to think of it, and the feeling of this thing actually running down the road is well worth the $$.

To check the bulbs? You should be able to see the filliment in there, whether it's burnt up or not. If it's a frosted bulb you can use a Meter to measure the resistance across the contacts on the bottom...

Thanks