BillZ260

That is SO WICKED! Sounds so nice, would love to see more. I'd like to know what, if any, areo mods you've done too. Seems like you effortlessly hit the 120 mark. I'm having speedo woes but anytime I get over 100ish, the car starts to feel 'floaty'. I know what you mean about pulling the car. I never know when or where, and it's not really acceptable anywhere, but it's addictive...

I read even some more and this morning when out to TUNE. First thing I noticed, and the reason my vacuum advance adjustments didn't do anything was due to the fact that I had the vacuum plugged into the wrong port! So once I changed it, the timing was way off. Starting from scratch I did the following and the car runs SOO much better! Un-hooked the vacuum advance and set total mechanical advance to 35 degrees. Mapped non-vacuum curve every 500 rpm till 4000ish. Re-hooked vacuum and mapped it through 4000. (I got lucky and ended up having the correct vacuum setting for my needs!) Maps look like so ----------Idle-----1000-----1500-----2000-----2500-----3000-----3500-----4000 No Vac---15-------15--------28--------32-------34--------36-------36--------36 Vac Adv--36-------38--------52--------52-------52--------52-------52--------52 I put about 50 or 60 miles on it cruising around this afternoon and it doesn't bog, herky jerky, ping, nothin! It has way more power when I'm cruising on the highway, I notice my vacuum is way more with the new settings, which should mean much better mileage. Overall I'm really happy with the timing. I do think I need to work on the carb settings some more but it's difficult with the lowered air filter on there, and I'd like to have a much more accurate tachometer to tune it with. The exhaust smells rich but there isn't alot of black smoke, so maybe it's just me. Thanks JT1!!!

Was a nice day so I quickly suds'd down the Z and drove her around town for about an hour and a half. I noticed that the speedo is working after the first fire up, reverse then go, and stops working about .5 to 1 mile later whether I stop or not. And when it stops it just drops to 0. Nothing from the AM Tech's yet.

They look cool, and kind of bring the 2 + 2 look together, Now, can you please post some video of you doing some doughnuts or something and then we can get back to the traction discussion...

I read a couple of good articles last night and I think with those and your input I have a pretty good Idea of what I'm trying to achieve now. I'll try to play this weekend and I'll post results.

Very nice. Love the way it sits and those wheels. DId you do the interior? I'd like to see more too!

Gotcha, will start playing with it and do some more reading reading reading! Last night it wansn't surging but today it was, so I have some tinkering to go. Thanks JT1

Yeah, I've done it a couple of times. I can tell it did something because the readings that were showing went from WAY off to just a bit off. This morning, drove the car into work and it worked for almost exactly 1 mile then just stopped.

Nice Job! I went the lowest tech I could and took a 1/4 turn gas shut off valve from Home Depot. It gets hot but fairly easy to get to if your in the passenger seat uh... he he

Hard pull through 5th and over a certain high rate of speed (since my speedo's not quite working right yet) last night and all is good. I guess that little clip CAN hold! Man this car is bad ass, and it's so mild compared to MOST of your guy's cars!

Depending on your HP levels a T-5 for a V8 is plenty. I have an 'upgraded' World class T-5, which is to say I have the Cobra R internals that I bought and installed. None of the manual options are 'cheap'. All the accessory items can add up if you don't get them all together. A racce tough 700R4 is close to 1/2 to 1/3 the cost of my MILD T-5. Of cours the auto trans is not as fun

I have no idea why but the Autometer and Summit senders have 3 wire and most all stock senders are 2 wire. All that is documented on their install instructions, that I re-read several times. I did come across a couple of thread with simular but not the same issues and there wern't any solutions. Thanks for the input, I'll let you all know what AM says.

I double checked the connections at the back of the speedometer, they are all fine. I noticed that it works after start up and reversing until I come to a complete stop. I did a bunch of googling today and didn't come up with much at all. I'll be sending AM Tech an email here in a min.

First I plugged vacuum line and car ran fine, no surging, no pinging but wasn't as responsive. Then when I started messing with the vacuum advance settings I ended up having to back the vacuum all the way out counter clockwise before it stopped surging. I can't tell if it's pinging or not. So does that mean it's 'seated' and the same as not having the vacuum advance or does that mean it's just the minimum amount of vacuum advance that my motor can tolerate at it's 'total' setting of 34? I'm new to tuning, so this is a good exercise for me, and thanks for the help!

Anyone else have an electric speedo and went through this? There are almost NO posts here on E speedos. Most of the time, it flat does not work. It's getting 12V and the ground is good. I tried testing the signal wire but I don't know what I'm looking for, voltage or resistance? I didn't really notice any large changes in either measurment driving around the neighborhood but maybe my slow pace wasn't enough to make either obvious. Anyone know how to test the Halefect sending unit? When it does work, seem like it works from the point of ignition on unill I come to a complete stop the first or maybe second time. Any thoughts?

I got rid of the bogging by changing total timing from 36 to 34, but now when I'm cruising at speed, any speed, the car is constatly surging. Meaning that it won't stay at a constant speed smoothly. It's like I'm on / off the gas just enough to take the slack out of the rear end and it gets all hurkey jerky. Any slight acceleration is butter smooth and normal, but holding throttle steady and the car eventually approaches this ballance point where it's funky. The carb is used but doesn't leak that I can tell. Do I need to rebuild the carb or maybe just tune it some more? I've adjusted it per the eddy manual, and before the car was finished we took the top end appart and replaced some gaskets and the rubber seats but not everything. Is this simply be cause everything in the car is new and tight EXCEPT the rearend? Thanks.

Did you get this sorted Cygnusx1? Can you maybe post if the line lock was actually defective?

The trans should fit w/ out tunnel mods. I don't have the tremec, but do have the BW T-5. I had to mod my tunnel due to my X-member.

This is what the PREVIOUS owner did to my Z and it only ended up trapping moisture and making the rust worse IMO. Cut the sections out and replace. I did it w/ almost no prior welding experience, along with the frame rail replacment, and everything is just fine.

Both. Basically the rubber Peel and Seal is the base layer, applied to the sheet metal to dampen the 'high tones' and the double bubble is spray glued to the peel and seal to cut down on the 'low tones'. Total Peel and Seal 3 rolls at 12 square feet is 36 square feet total Double bubble 1 roll at 50 square feet. Will buy one more roll of each and that should do it w/ some excess which will but the total tab around 95ish plus tax.

I'm about 80% done. This is what I've used and how far it went. Peel and Seal 6" x 25' rolls ($15 per roll) (Hint: Use a heat gun to get super adhesion to any surface!) Covered 80-90% of floor pans from firewall to just behind seats Covered 75% of the trans tunnel sides Covered 75% of the panels behind the seats Covered 90% of the floor area beind seats Covered 80% of the rear wheel tubs and strut towers Covered as much as I could the rear 1/4 panels This took 3 full rolls, so I'm at $45 for the peel and seal so far and I need one more roll to finish my doors and anything else left un-covered. For the double bubble stuff 2' x 25' ($18 per roll) Basically covered 100% of all above mentioned areas w/ the double bubble. Would like one more roll to double up on any Panel Covered areas and anywhere I can just simply use more. It weighs nothing. Impressions, the car no longer has my ears ringing after a 20 minute drive! Really, have some holes to button up, but the car is quite a bit more quiet than it was, and I think doing the doors and getting carpet in will really hush it down a bit more. I'll get some pics sometime soon.

Calpoly, thanks for the update, I'm wanting to get rid of the arm rest as well. Can you post any measurments you have? I'd also like to see how yours turned out! I don't have much to loose, but I want it to look decent and I want it done I'm just about finished w/ my sound deadening so I was actually checking this thread to get the links to buy my carpet. I didn't know the carpet kits wouln't cover the hump!

Love the Red Green show, always forget to watch though

If it's what you want to do, go for it.

There are lots of scenario's that could be going on. Most probable is, the turbo manufacturer could be out sourcing components of the turbo, casting the housing or the impellers, the manufacturer then is supplying drawings and specs. The Chinese company probably decides to make their own, and tries to figure out the rest and you get less than desired results. BTW, any manfacturer could be advertising "Made in USA" but could be procuring most or even all the components outside the U.S. and assembling the parts here. It's not really that straight forward but it's possible.