BillZ260

I'm another for keeping the prices low.... I'd like to build another someday w/ my boy (or girl), and hopefully the $$ won't be too much by then...

Well, I will double check tonight, but I had to get a -4 to -3 adapter in order to hood the tilton to the supplied braided line that came w/ the HTOB...

Thanks for that note. I remember taking those measurments, and calculating everything out. I think once I put the assembly all together, I was off 1 rotation or something on the adjustment of the HTOB. I remember unbolting the trans, turning it in 1/2 turn, rebolting the trans and repeating untill I could turn the HTOB. So it should be ok as far as adjustment goes. I'll dig up my instructions and notes, hopefully my measurments are still in there and we'll see what the Ram Clutch needs and the HTOB will supply I think I needed a brain nudge, hopefully this will come out to an easy solution. But worst case is a new Master I think. EDIT: Looking at those diagrams again, the collar of the input shaft housing is threaded on for the tilton set, where the HTOB threads onto it supplying the height adjustment. So I don't think a spacer would be appicable with this set up. Thanks for the comments though, got me to thinking, and I'll check some things and let you all know how they turn out.

Did you figure this out? I am having a simular issue, in that my Autometer voltage guage is reading 18V+ anytime the key is on. Batt reads 14 something, 1 wire GM alternator, all wiring is new, ground is fine...

THis is what I'm running. T-5 Ram blowproof flywheel Ram 10.5" cluth and pressure plate New 3/4" Tilton Master New Tilton HTOB (Adjusted half turns untill the bearing spun freely with the trans bolted up to the motor w/ flywheel/clutch installed) Everything is bled. With the engine running, I can not place the car into 1st or reverse, at all. But If I put the car into 1st or reverse, THEN start it up w/ the cluth in it barely wants to move. I checked the pushrod to the master, looks like it's adjusted all the way out, at least as far out but still able to have the lock nut fully enguaged w/ the rod, So maybe one more thread out would be ok, but I don't know if I like that or not. I tried pulling the rubber stopper off the clutch floor stop, still the same scenario above. I could cut off the stop and place the rubber directly on the floorboard, but that should be a last resort. Any other thoughts? I could buy the 7/8" Master and replace, but only want to do that if it's absolutly necessarry. Seems like it's really close, just not quite enough to be adjusted right. Thanks!

Ran out of gas yesterday trying to finish tuning the carb So I spent the afternoon getting the guages all hooked up and working, as well as a couple of accessory switches here and there. Found access to the breather vent on the tranny, doesn't look like it's the leaky culpret Any other thoughts? I'll check the fill / drain plugs, but other than, that since the drip was in the center of the trans not behind the engine, not sure what it could be. One day at a time... Once more progress is made I'll start another tread detailing my progress, and once I have a final "TUNE" set up I'll post the results here....

Way cool Nice pics, great opportunity, even if it was for only 48 hours! I got to go for 2 weeks, but I was 14 and that was a LONG time ago. I'd love to go again sometime. Thanks for the story and pics

Was my original thought for a swap but didn't do it because no one else had. I'd go for it, like the others said, good motor, lots of aftermarket support. I do think I've seen at least one other guy on here talk about them, but I havn't seem much as of late. Search around, you might run into something.

That IS freaky! Glad your OK

I have another from two nights ago... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=127866 Post number 10...

Well Pete...It was acutally 15 BTDC BEFORE I started jacking with it. So I happily adjusted it to 12 Deg ATDC, I guess I was looking at it backwards... How's your back by the way? I realized this about mid-day yesterday, sitting at my desk trying to figure out why it was so hot, and it hit me that I was looking at the wrong side of marks on the ballancer. I guess I can add this to the "stupid moves" post. SO last night, I re-set the timing over to the other side of the mark at about 12 Deg BTDC and it imeediatly ran much better. THen I tried the 2nd method that I read about, which is turn the dial on your gun to 36 Deg, start the car, rev to 2500-3000 and ZERO the timing marks. Runs almost perfect. Revved and Idled for at least 30 minutes, no over heating issues at all, fan was on/off coolant never over 200 sitting there in the garage. Idles easily at 700 rpm, and doesn't keep running when I turn off the key Lots of throttle responce but with the vacume advance hooked back up it was backfiring on the way back down. Still running rich, need to finish the tune and get her leaned out a bit. I absolutly hate the garage smelling like fuel. Was able to move her back and forth a bit under her own power in the drive, cluch needs another 1/16" of movment to totally dis-enguage( I hope ). Couldn't get it in gear running, but could kill the motor, put it in gear and start it up w/ no issues. Oh, and I found out I forgot to put the Trans Breather tube back in after I rebuild the tranny, it's sitting on my bench, and now I'm getting a small puddle of trans fludid from it I think. Any ideas on getting it in w/ out pulling the powertrain? Also a small puddle of oil, hopefully the pan that needs to be repalced anyway. The small things just kill! But I'm getting so close!!!

Found another method using an adjustable timing gun (which i have), I'll check my settings and see how they compare. Downloaded the Eddy Carb Owners Manual, lots of good detailed tuning information there. I'll keep you posted...

To answer your questions... 1) Most likely they are screen printed (Painted) on. 2) Dunno 3) No Do you already have some of the set of Autometers? Maybe you can sell them and get a complete set of Metric in another style/brand. I'm thinking that there HAS to be some decent aftermarket guages in your neck of the woods! They may not have the faux carbon backs but surely you can get close! BTW...Phantoms rock Quick Google got me this... Stuart Warner there are several different styles of Metrics avail: Water Temp 40-130 Dec C http://www.sw-performance.com/index.php?page=details&p=114343 Oil Pressure 7-BAR http://www.sw-performance.com/index.php?page=details&p=114328 Actually it looks like that have Metric versions of all these... Air Pressure Blower Boost Brake Pressure Fuel Pressure Nitrous Pressure Oil Pressure Oil Temperature Pressure Trans Oil Temp Vac/Boost Vacuum Water Pressure Water Temperature Maybe not the Carbon style, but they look nice and are quality. They have a retailer finder, nothing in sweeden but there are some retailers in Europe. http://www.sw-performance.com/retailer Greece France Canada Australia Colombia Italy Mexico Norway Spain Switzerland

I got the idle down to 850 w/ no problem, almost right away. I guess w/ no mufflers it sound like it's running faster than it is? Checked the timing, I think it was about 15 Deg ATDC at idle! I really need to have another person helping me, trying to watch the tach, vacume guage, timing light and keeping the engine running was really difficult! The thing got to temp really quick and with the timing so advanced, the headers and about 2 foot of the exhaust was glowing red by the time I got the timing set to 12 Deg BTDC and the idle adjusted. The Headers cooled off pretty quick but the exhaust tubes stayed red for a while. I turned in the Idle adjustment screws but the vacume did not move off of 10 in/Hg after two 1/4 turn adustments. I checked my other guages, oil pressure was down to about 45 psi and temps were climbing. Reved it up a bit and it started to cool but the floors were HOT so I called it a night. As soon as I turned off the car, I think I found my coolant leak The thing was puking all over the place, I need to get a catch can! I think the initial timing is set now, I need to clean up the garage and get some help and finish the tune up.

Used carb, has a 30 min rebuild on it as of last year. If I can't get it down I'll pull it and check.

Last week, setting the Z on it's tires from a LONG time sitting on wheel dollies. I forgot how low the Z sits w/ the frame connectors and can't use the Jack pad insert (the white thing that spins and usually sits on the frame when you use a HF floor jack) So I pull it off and just slide the jack back under the car, didn't look to make SURE i had the pad on the frame, started lifter her up, and up and up and SLAM! Jack slid off the frame and landed right in the middle of my new floor pan! I used .062 sheet, i think that helped a bit, it only put about a 2 inch Jack Pad Shaped bulge in it, and my welds dindn't tear at the seam! So I was actually stoked about that Little hammer and dolly work and she'll be ok.... SIGH!

Still a couple of electrical gremlins, but they are all my fault since I did all the wiring! Hope to get it sorted tonight while Crys is at class. Some coolant on the ground, coming from the back of the block, I HOPE that it's just loose heater fittings...

Now that I have most of the exhaust on, and apparently solved the electrical issues, I'm ready to tune the 355 for the initial drive. I've been reading on reading and adjusting timing curves, how to properly adjust and tune the Eddy Carb, so here's my plan. If you have any input, it's much appretiated. Currently the motor won't idle lower than somewhere above 1500 RPM. I have a loose connection to find for the tach. Pull vacume advance and hook up vacume guage. Turn in both idle mixture screws all the way, then back out 2 full turns to ensure a bit rich enviroment. Start it up and set initial timing to about 12 Deg BTDC Adjust RPM's down to 850, if possible, if not check timing again (anything else here to get the idle down?) Let the motor come up to temp Re-check the above. Turn in ONE idle mixture screw untill vacume stops rising, adust in second to match the first. Adjust Idle back to 850 Re-check initial timing. Reinstall vacume advance (Initial adjustment? all the way in back out so much?) From here I can map the current timing curve, but i'm not really sure where to go after that. I understand how the mech and vacume advance's work, just not how to correlate how they change w/ my cam or whatever. I'd also like to check and adjust the AFR and make sure i have the right metering rods in the carb, but I guess i'll need to drive it to figure that out eh? Not sure I want to buy an AFM, is it a neccessary tool to have. If so can i stick the ox sensor in the x over pipe in my exhaust so it reads both banks? Thanks Guys.

Not sure how to keep your 'rectal danger sensor' in tip top, but do whatever it takes.... Stay safe! And thanks for your service!!!

well, no one guessed it, or could have. I never would have imagined that the pick up tube would have dropped off the bulkhead fitting!!! It was just lying in the bottom of the tank! The tank is an aluminum RCI fuel cell, 15 gallon i think. Has two bulkhead fittings, one vent and one fuel supply. So I dropped the tank, pulled the filler neck and supply fitting off and removed the pickup tubing from the bottom of the tank. I cut the mangled end of the tube off and applied a bit of grease to the tube and fitting and re-installed. Once pushed all the way one, the barbs on the fitting would not let me pull it off again, but i cinched a tie wrap around it just in case. Put everything back together and when I turned on the ignition I could hear the fuel hit the pump, checked the guage and had pressure. I finished tightening all the exhaust bolts at all the joints and fired her up. She went to temp fan kicked on and stayed right at 190-200 so i guess i fixed some of my initial electical issues. Still need to tune her up, looked like she was running lean and wouldn't Idle. I'll start a new thread on that stuff later. I'm just so pumped that it's coming together!!

TSX, we have an '05, great car for the $$

Both of those were correct, the car started right up a year ago. Hopefully I'll get it all back together today or tomorrow and re-try.

That is great! But it confirmed my fears... Oklahoma has 1 road course, Hallet. There are a couple of drag strips, but everything else is all dirt/clay ovals!

Hoke, If i remember correctly, you are a realitivly (to me at least) young guy, that's about as good as advice as I could ever hope to have at your age. JSM, I am about to be in almost exactly the same boat, my wife leaving a 50K'ish accounting job and going back to school for graphic design next semester. I don't make much more than her, but I'm pretty sure we can easily manage on what I make. True, Tulsa is probably alot cheaper than Floriday, but like Hoke stated above, it's about setting priorities. My car has been a project for 4+ years now, always taking 2nd or 3rd to whatever else is going on in my life, and it's ALWAYS there when I'm done w/ those other things. Support your wifes endevors first, if sales is something you want to pursue, go for it. Life is too short not to enjoy what you do for a living. My .02

Pulled the pump and the lines feeding the pump, not a drop of gas in any of them, blew air through line from the engine bay back and very little if any came out, really only enough to wet the end of the line sitting in the catch can. I'll put everything backtogether Friday and see what happens. I am going to lower the pump a bit below the tank bottom, I think I'm pretty close anyway but we'll see what that does.