BillZ260

Congrats, I don't think I've ever seen anyone get ALL their answers from the search, or maybe just no one has told us about thier success!

Just FYI, I received confirmation from CALMINI Nissan that they do have them in stock @ $549.95. See email responce below. "Sir- We are currently good in stock on the NP35111. Please call the sales office if you have any other questions or concerns. Thank you for your interest in the CALMINI Nissan line. Best Regards, CALMINI Products Mfg. Inc. Sales Department P: 800.345.3305 T: 661.398.9500 F: 661.398.9555 http://www.calmini.com From: Ghere, Bill Sent: Monday, February 11, 2008 10:02 AM To: SALES@CALMINI.COM Subject: NP35111 in stock? Do you all have these in stock? I’ve heard that demand has exceeded supply from other vendors! Thanks.

Whore might not be the right term.... more like BIMBO

Any updates on this Buzy? I just got my car going and I'm having the same issue. I too have the Toyota Calipers up front and stock drums with new pads in the rear. I had my car up on jack stand this weekend repairing the trans, and after testing the trans, I couln't stop the rear wheels with full peddle! Fronts work well, rears are bled, but I should probably re-bleed. No leaks, I'm stuck too.

Bo-Thanks for the tip, but that's for dropping the trans and leaving the bellhousing on the block correct? I wish I could have done that, as it would have been mucho prefered to what I had to do. Unfortunatly, with the Tilton HTOB's threaded input collar, the HTOB and hydralics had to stay on the trans, and I couln't pull the hydralic's through the bell housing. That Bellhousing is what created all the headache, but now that i've done it once, if I every have to, it should go pretty smooth. The key was getting the bellhousing up first and then pulling the rear up. Got the car back together yesterday, started it up and rowed through 5th, everything seems good for now. Oh, accept I just I confirmed what's been noted before on the Toyota Caliper swap, I have ZERO rear brakes.

What about this one JM? Is it the same one that Power Brute is selling? http://www.purenissan.com/r180_lsd1.htm

I have the Tilton HTOB w/ stainless braided lines. Was pretty simple to install and bleed, but I did have to increase the Master TWICE before it worked right. Now that it's set though, it works perfectly.

I think I over simplified the simularities. The Ebay stuff is the same in principle But yes, the thickness of the plastic between air pockets is heavier than the Lowe's stuff, and it probably is better suited for areas that will get some traffic. The Lowe's stuff is super light too, but it is a bit on the thick side.

I got my sample from the Ebay guy and I made a little stop at Lowe's yesterday. I picked up the 6" x 25 ft roll ($15) of Seal and Peal, which I am planning to apply to the thin sheet metal 'tinny" type areas. 12 Sq Ft isn't enough to do the whole car but I'll buy more as needed. As for the Ebay stuff, it's good quality but a little bit more than similar stuff at Lowe's. The main difference between the two is: Lowe's stuff is basically two sheets of bubble wrap with alum on either side. Well made but the bubbles could get popped if placed on the floor areas where your feet are sitting. It's called Reflectix Double Bubble Foil http://www.reflectixinc.com/technology/products.asp and was like $18 for a 2' x 25' roll or 50 sqft. I stuck my head in the shelf with this stuff around me and it dampened the sound quite a bit, so I though what the heck. It's cheap, and super light and close enough for my needs. I plan on applying this on top of the peel and seal where I can. and as filler behind the panels where I can. The Ebay stuff is the same materials, but the air bubbles are randomly shaped and probably more sturdy or have more memory, but I don't really know if that's true or not. http://www.lobucrod.com/ and is $38.50 shipped for the 40 sq ft roll. It's probably a superior product but costs more, and I didn't have to wait to get it.

Trans is in, took about 3.5 hours or so of JUMBLING that 100 lb hunk of metal around. Man it is really tight when you swap the trans and leave the motor. Just FYI, I ended up placing the jack on the bell housing and lifting it up until the input shaft was close to lining up with the hole, then I picked up the tail and suspended it through the shifter hole. Once I did that I could easily jiggle it directly above me and got it to engage. So once I figured out how to do it, it was really about 45 min Couple of loose ends to tie up tomorrow, but hopefully I can fire her off and test my snap ring Thanks guys! Good luck Terry, G-force sounds pretty stand up, compared to some other stories that have been posted, or maybe that was another company...

Grumpy, Just checked my gasket and it is the thick OS34510T you mentioned above. When I installed it, I only used gasket at the CORNER's mentioned in the instructions where the tabs of the gasket slide up into the block. It's still slightly dripping, maybe a quarter sized puddle or more now after a drive. I've done several re-torq's after the build. Motor has 100-200 miles on it. Any thoughts?

Terry, those are BEEFY. If I have anymore problems, looks like G-force has the solutions for me, albeit a bit pricey. Dr_Hunt, Thanks! I appreciate the compliment! Personally, I'm totally fine with making a mistake, as long as I gain something from it. Sometimes it MAY take me a little longer to admit than others, but it is what it is I'm just glad I came to a conclusion I can live with, and hopefully helped out fellow enthusiast along the way. I'll through out a couple things that hopefully encourage some of you guys that are afraid of tackling a project, simply because you have never done it before. 1. DON'T be afraid to take stuff apart. This may seem over simplistic, but in reality, someone put it together before you, there is no reason you can't. 2. READ the manual, if you have one. If you don't, take pictures and notes. 3. ASK for help if you needed it. If you get stuck, it's ok to ask for help and chances are someone on here has gone through the same issue. 4. Have fun! NOW, I need to run and see if I can get that T-5 back into place. (I did ask my little bro to help out with the maneuvering of this thing)

Yesterday after my last post I decided to quite whining and make a decision! I received another comment from Kevin with kind of backed up my decision based on what had happed durring re-assembly. I took the smaller clip, which was tight to get on, but it went w/ out haveing to exessivly extend it. (Terry I liked your idea to re-measure it to ensure it didn't extend past it's yeilding point, but I didn't do it last night cause I hadn't read your thoughts yet!). Anyway, I installed the ring, and was cleaning off old silicone and stuff and decided to double check that the ring had set into place. It had not, even though when I slid it in place there was a definit solid "SNAP", but when I looked closely, it wasn't fully seated, so I lightly tapped with a punch and it went ahead "SNAPPED" in place again and I then verified that it was in fact seated. SO, I now believe that the larger ring is fine, it just wasn't fully seated. I'm guessing that one tip 'snapped' into place and sounded good enough, but it wasn't. Kevin's note reflected the concern above from the beginning, and said I could use the smaller ring if I really wanted to but he felt it wan't necessarry. Tommorrow I'll attempt to jumble the trans back into the car and get it all put back together and if it fails again. then I'll look into the G-Force set up. This go-round is only going to cost me a new Gallon of fluid and the down time, but this is what a hobby is about right? Thanks all, I'll let you know how it turns out!

Smalley doesn't offer anything that "heavy", so they are out. I did find one other snap ring that would be the snug fit that I'm lookign for but isn't just available to buy online. Looking some more, this Grainger PN 5CE45 could also work but is a different style. Kevin kindly measured one at his shop and it measured .086 wide x 1.144 ID and .125 thick all the way around, this ID is only .006 smaller than the one that failed, that spooks me. I ran the #'s based on Kevins measurments.If my measurments are right, these two scenarios are how the current design is holding the driven 5th in place, which I am having a hard time swallowing... Again, the Shaft OD is 1.160. and the groove OD is 1.090 1 - the snap ring is perfectly centered on the driven gear. It has (1.160 - 1.144/2) .023 all the way around the ring holding the 100ish lbs of thrust against it. 2 - more likely, gravity or centrifical force has set the ring completely on one side, giving you the full .035 of the groove depth contact on ONE side and about .016 on the other. It just seems to me that the resting snap ring ID should be the same or smaller than the groove in the shaft to obtain the maximum area to spread that thrust across. Am I nuts?

What's really funny, to me anyway, is that I'm looking for a small simple canister to put back ON my car I'm wanting to go from the Cell vent to the canister to vacume to keep my car and garage from stinking every time I go out there. Any other solutions

Congrats! Feels good eh? Havn't driven mine to work yet, gotta do something about the fuel venting to my cabin!

That what I call having some balls!! Great work

Either guage type should work in the stock locations. The locations are just a port to plug in your electric probe/sending unit, or attach the manual connection to the guage. Personally I like mechanical guages too, I'm not sure how much more accurate one is over the other, I think it's mostly to do with personal prefrence OR maybe a specific guage style you like only comes in on or the other (which is kinda personal pref again..) I don't have any pictures of my guage hook ups, but I'd put a valve on the oil sending line, those are prone to crackage.

Scotty, do you work for Kicker? My uncle in law does in Stillwater, OK. I'm not sure if he's involved in the marketing side to much, Bob Spencer.

As usual grumpy, this is priceless information! I only wish you would have posted about 4 weeks ago! I re-used my pan when i did my SBC rebuild, only to find it had a small pin hole in it. So I bought a new Summit pan, painted it black, and picked up the Felpro dual dipstick gasket shown above. But I didn't know whether to get the thick or thin, and through frustration of trying to explain which gasket i needed for a Datsun that had a Chevy V8 I forgot to ask about thick or thin. So now, after re-torquing my pan bolts at least 4 times, i've got the leaks down to drips but still at the front and rear of the pan. I can only assume that I bought the thin, and needed the thick...I'll check the part numbers on the box, and if need be, I'll grab a new one this weekend

Dr, thanks for the guestimate! I'll relay that figure and see what they say. Terry, I get your point above on G-force unit, sounds like it adds several advantages over the stock unit. I don't plan on road racing often, and if I do I'll just have to stay out of 5th. My car is primarily going to be street driven, and yesterday I played with some numbers based on my current tire size. They may be off some but the attachment shows my Engine RPM in 1000 RPM increments and the relative drive shaft speed, wheel speed and car speed for those RPM levels. I seriously doubt the Areo Capabilitys of my Z alowign me to safely go much past 120, so I should be ok through 4th on any speed runs. I'll religate 5th to cruising to work and road trips I'd also like to thank you guy's again for your input on this. I don't want you to feel like I'm ignoring your input. I'm simply deciding that heavy duty 5th (1-4 are tought as nails so far) isn't what I need right now, what I need is to finish up the car and start enjoying it Stay tuned for snap ring decisions and updates. ZSpeedEst.txt

17" MoMo "SPORT" 215/45/17 Potenza's --I am seriouly thinking about getting the Grey AR Torque Thrusts but that's WAY down the road...

There are some guys doing this swap right now, search a bit more in the Other Engines section, and PM the guy's doing the work. I'd like to see more info as well, eventhough I'm done w/ my V8 Swap.

I don't have an oil cooler but I did end up using a remote filter locator to make oil changes easier w/ the block huggers. I got the Jeg's brand, only weird thing is you have to use a Ford type filter, but that's not really a big deal.

Here's some shots of my Lokar universal cable I made the angle braket on the left out of some scrap 2X3 tubing leftover from my frame rails. Band sawed it to shape, drilled a hole and cut a slot for the cable to slide through. On the right, I pulled the lever off, drilled out the bottom of the pivot ball and insalled that clevis type connection that came with the kit.