BillZ260

1 week and nothing from Tilton. After some figuring and pondering, I've ordered a 1" master. Should ensure that I can adjust it to the throw I need w/ room to spare. I hated to think about ordering a 7/8" and it not quite be there so the 1" it is. Should be able to get it installed next week and adjusted. I'll let you all know how it turns out.

Good point! Now, just to get the hundreds of branches out of my yard!

Can you supply some more info on this piece? I searched GOOGLE for Parkloc , ParkLock , Parklok and get like 3 hits total?? Is this the keyed swithc that is run in line w/ your brakes, you press the brake peddle, turn the key, and your brakes are set?

I definitly DO! I'm at work hearing all the others tell their stories, we are really lucky!!!

What's your price limit? There are some that are made in the UAE i saw while i was there, absolutly stunning. http://www02.exoto.com/Collectibles/index.asp

Spent most of the day yesterday trying to keep my driveway clear of the fractured remains of our 30+ food Bradford Pear. I guess we are lucky it lasted this long! Roads are totally fine, all the trees however are all coming down. We lost two, luckily no property damage to home or cars. We still have power, even though most of Tulsa does not. I hope it stays that way, the neighbors tree staying strong holds that in the ballance for now. The whole area is pretty much depressing looking. I have never seen so many trees shredded and spit and dismantled! Looks like a warzone. I hope most of the trees can survive, otherwise our once quite and parklike 50 year old housing development is going to look exacly like the new suburbs / once farmland NO TREE housing developments

Ram Tech states: "Travel needed on the new discs is about .400-.500, I have no tech info on the tilton master or bearing." Again, HTOB max movment is .700. Looking at these drawings: http://www.tiltonracing.com/content.php?page=hydro the piston diameter is 1.26 or 1.40. So worst case scenario the 3/4 (.75) master CAN move the HTOB 1/2" for every 1" of pedal movment. I need to get specifics on piston diameter on MY HTOB, since I don't think its actually represented in those drawings. IF i have 2" of throw on the peddle (anyone know how lone the tilton master throw is?) then I should be able to move the HTOB slave almost 1" right? Which should be enough..... Will see what the Tilton guy says... ECH!

Ram Tech states: "Travel needed on the new discs is about .400-.500, I have no tech info on the tilton master or bearing." So based on how far the 3/4 CAN move the HTOB, i'll need to go bigger. Again, HTOB max movment is .700.

Tech's reply on the use of 3 terminals instead of 2. Hello. The "S" terminal is simply not used for the internal meter when being used as a volt meter. It is used only when being used as a variable resistance meter. Thank you. Cory Tech/Service

I'm having simular issues w/ my tilton 3/4 master and HTOB. I have a GM T-5, camaro bellhousing and Ram Flywheel and clutch. Waiting to hear from Techs at Tilton and Ram... frustraiting...

Zmanco, thanks for being so helpful! The guage is MAX out at the guage, and 11.5 at the supply wire. It's this one http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.aspx?ref=search&gid=2626 I read the instructions listed on the page and w/ in 30 seconds realized whats been going on. I'll give you a hint, the guage is trying to read 24v! The instructions point out that you only need to utilized 2 of the 3 posts on the guage. So i unhooked the sending unit wire and ta dah! 11V on the guage. I get that the 3 posts are there cause the other guages use 3 posts, but why hook them up so that this could potentially happen? WEIRD! I'm lucky it didn't burn up.

This is a nice service to have! Welcome to the site! Why is your comment text so small?

11.5 Volts at the supply wire..

Added at least 1/4" of throw to the peddle / piston movment, still nothin. I think that is as much as I can get out of this cylinder. SO short of some small stupid thing I am some how missing that the tech's point out, looks like i'll be needing a 7/8". Tried to get something in there to "feel" the gap between the HTOB and clutch fingers and nothin happening. Who knows, with all these little things going on w/ the car, leaks and this and that's. I may end up pulling everythign out checking it thouroughly and seeing what's what.

DOH! Another good though. I'll check voltage from the wire. I know the other HOT wires have been reading 12ish volts but there coould be something cooky going on w/ the one eh? running to the garage...

Carl, thanks for the insight. I totaly understand the amount of hours and work it takes to get that "digital image" we would need, let alone running that model through a CFD enviroment. I was really posing the question more as "Can anyone out there help do this type of work, with their connections or know how. The ideas below are exactly the types of things that I was looking for. Creative and potentially really accurate ideas!

Battery reads 12.4 volts car off. Got some other things going on so i can't start up the Z and check the alt. No switches that I remember on the guage, and it's hooked to the specified VOLT Guage wire from the painless harness... I'll read up on the guage liturature that came w/ them, if i can locate. Thanks for the input fella's, looks like it is the guage...

Voltage reading is w/ ignition on, motor running or not is alway pegged above 18 volts. I need to check w/ a meter what the battery is putting out but in the past i know it's not much more than 14V. Any idea why this is? Painless Wiring Harness Bought John C's ROD battery which is an Eagle sealed battery, it's tiny 25 lbs. (Has held a charge sitting on the shelf for like 2 years or something, pretty impressive) I have, i think, a 60 amp GM alt, w/ the single wire hook up. Everything electrically seems to be workinig just fine. Just wondering if there is a wire I didn't hook up somewhere or something... Thanks.

I'll see what the tech's have to say. I'll try to get some sort of feeler guage in there to see where it's setting. It may be that it isn't bled well. I didn't bleed it but the guy that did seemed pretty sharp... will see.

Re-read everything last night, looks like my HTOB is too close to the cluth fingers, but that should only affect the clutch once it starts to wear. Went out, jacked up the drivers rear lower control arm, stuck the Z in 1st and slowly enguaged the clutch while trying to rotate the wheel by hand and it didn't free up at all. I'm almost convinced that I should have bought the 7/8" Master. I'm going to call / email the tech's at Ram and Tilton today and see what I can come up with. I know the Piston Diameter, but I don't know the throw, if I can find that out I can figure the total possible fluid movment for the Master. I know the HTOB piston will move MAX .700, but I don't know the piston diameter, if I had that I would know how it would move in correlation to the Master. I would like to know what linear movment it takes to disenguage the Ram set up. I think if I gather all this, I'll know a bit better what I need to do to get this fixed.

good chuckle, thanks grumps. Great way to start the day!

Got about 3 gallons in her last night, finished up the idle and idle mixture. Idles and revs much better after the adjustment detailed in the EDDY manual.

Had time to dig up my measurments but didn't have time to decipher I'll play tonight.

Checked last night and mine came w/ a reducer, but it was too long or something and I bought a different one. But the master is -4 and the line is a -3, for mine at least. Master = Tilton 3/4", came w/ two resiviors as well as a remote resivoir mount.

This may or may not be feasable, and is just a thought that I wanted to share. Was watching "Futurecar" last night and they were discussing how easily designers can check/test their designs in virtual windtunnels before any models are put together. This got me to thinkning, w/ our VAST membership base, do was have ANY folks working for any car companies or know anyone w/ access to these programs? Here's my thought. Say we generate another couple of grand for more testing. Could we apply that to having some virtual models of the S30 and all the popular and even custom body "add ons" that folks on the site have? Then have those tested w/ the virtual results gained? Is this a dumb idea, am I just being a bit over zealous w/ what's out there? I have no idea of the hours it takes to model something or run these programs, again, was just a thought...