BillZ260

well there is a vent AN fitting on the top, the first time I tried to start it, I still had the little red protector cap on top, that may have kept air from pulling in. I haven't plumbed that vent as of yet. I though i pulled it off, but i may have stuck it right back on. I'll make sure to remove next time i play.

I digg

Thanks for the quick responce Bo! I'll try your suggestions tomorrow hopefully, if not, after turkey day I was so phyched the she fired right up when I dribble some gas in the carb, hope to get her moving soon!

A buddy helped me make some minor adjustments to the exhaust today so I could finally hang most of it and tune the Z to get her running. Car has been sitting for 11 months untouched almost untill today. SO i go to start her and she turns and turns. Check coil wire, it was unplugged. Plugged it in same thing. Turns and turns. Recheck everything and nothing looks out of place. Turn the ignition on and check the fuel psi, guage reads 0. Check the tank, fuel is barely covering the pick up, so i add about a gallon and a half or less, pick up is now completely covered. Try again Still nothing. Put a splash into the top of the carb, she fires right up! ARG Pull the rubber line from the hard supply line and the guage, all is clear, no blockage or anything. Pull a 6' extension and put it on the hard supply line, turn on the ignition and I can feel air being pushed but no gas. I drop it in a gas can and let it run for over a minute and nothing. Checked all the fuel line connections, don't see any leaks or anything. I did notice that after the first couple of attemps, their was a large vacume built up in the fuel cell but other than that, everything seems fine. Last xmas when we got this think running for the very first time, we had no issues with the pump or supply lines. I'm hoping this is something stupidly simple... any ideas fellas? Holly Red pump Braded line from Cell to filter to pump to hard line, then short rubber line from hard line to carb.

I'll do it Thanks!

<---jealous

More pics from farther away? Nice!

No

Not sure what to tell you other than thanks! Get home soon.

Nice!

Check the hose connections to the core and the firewall.

I'll be home Sunday, should be the last trip for a while. As for other options, I really dig this glass panel that was on a old race Z I saw in a post somewhere around here. Basically it covers most all the grill area and has some small holes in it. It's different and looks pretty cool, maybe we could make 2 When you heading over to get the Gnose?

Yep, I'd like to see the photoshop of your idea. I kind of agree w/ mario, it's not my favorite front end but it's close to being cool, just needs something. Thinning the bumper may be the ticket. So, how old's the baby? Did you tell me about that last time I saw you? Congrats

They have that brand here in Dubai too, i'll look for that flavor.

I think what you are experiencing is called bump steer, it's really common in the early Z's. There are several solutions, do some searching and you should be able to clear it up some. Is your car lowered? What wheels tires did you change to?

nice

Where are you in Texas, I could use the rear vallance under that tail light panell, or the whole thing if that would be easier for you to cut? Is the vallance clean? Mine is in poor shape. I'm in Tulsa, and may be willing to pick up depening on where you are in that big honkin state of yours. Thanks.

Thanks Thumper, that's the type of info I was looking for. I'll start seeing what I can come up w/ on some of the Explorer forums as well.

Nice offer Dr_Hunt! I was going to recomend buying a new one. Machine work and block purchase can add up to around the same price and have a rebuild or two left in it.

Agreed...NICE

HUH?????

I understand the cool dense air allows more for higher compression which may be explanation enough, but I want to make sure I completely understand. Here's my issue, basicaly my 94 explorer w/ 140K miles is starting to show it's age. It's been way down on power, especially over 3K RPM, detonation is aweful with premium gass, and check engine light is on / off all the time due to rich / lean signals. This morning, a big cold front came in, was in the upper 40's and raining. My truck was running like it used to all the time, pulled hard, even past 3K, NO detonation at full throttle on the hwy, it just ran right. So my question is: "Is it simply the cool air in the cylinders that is helping my truck along, or is the air temp effecting some other components, such as the oxegen sensor or MAF or something along those lines?" I think that there must be alot of carbon build up in the cylinders, which has raised the compression enough to make it run poorly when warm out, but ok when the air is cool. Any insight is appretiated. If my wife gets accepted in this program she's wanting in, this is going to have to stay my daily driver for a bit longer. I'd like to do what I can to keep it in shape. I guess if I had to I could share my A/C with the intake inlet Thanks.

1,300 for a running, clean, low rust car is an excelent deal. Auto or not, I'd probably pick it up if it was clean. Go through it and ballance what you are getting, with what you want to do w/ the car.

Is the Painted one yours too? I'm confused, did you just get it running or is it painted and finished? NICE CAR!

Welcome!!! It's really a personal decision, some guys buy crate motors, other guys like to build. If you aren't really big on how fast things get done, then build it, it's ALOT more rewarding when that baby fires up