BillZ260

I know this is an OLD thread but Mike or deMideon, do you all have pics and parts list of what you used to hook up the filler neck on your fuel cell's to the filler door in the Z? I see the elbows and hose but do they sell splicing joints or something like that to connect them? Thanks.

Guess I'll have to grab a copy! Thanks for the heads up.

For stock, I thought there was one flasher and the Hazard switch controlled whether it controled one or both sides? I'm probably wrong, but that's what i've gathered... I don't have any stock wires in my Z...

I can not seem to find any comparison tests or manufacturers sites with a matrix of their sizes and their respective CFM ratings. The only think that comes up is what % this company out flows the other, and in home air purifiers, go figure. Basically all I want to know is what size 14" K&N filter can I use to keep up w/ my 600 CFM carb AND fit under the stock hood. Hood isn't on the car, so I still need to measure. K&N has quite a few sizes to choose from and based on their calculations I need a 3-1/4" filter. They have a 1-1/8 Drop base which has a total combined hieght of 2-3/4" w/ the 3" filter. (Top must be domed a bit) I don't know if that will fit or not YET, so I'm wondering if I can go w/ a 2" filter and K&N's Filter top which will flow, supposedly, 500 CFM. I'm sure the 2" filter may cause some funky turbulence with the 1-1/8 drop base as well. What does experience tell you guys?

I've only been driving mine around the neighborhood, gas station, grocery store, etc when i get a chance. Everything is 1/2 mile or less but every time there seems to be much love for the Z. I think alot of it has to do w/ my not having a hood on the car and a huge air cleaner sittin on top of the SBC. One guy was taking pictures of it, which was very weird for me, but cool I guess. Car gets alot of attention, dunno if I like it but it does. Going to make an old man out of me, worrying all the time.

Pusher, did you see my simular posts on the ALT stuff? Exciter wire probably needs a 6Amp diode with the strip towards the Alt, hook the wire to the #1 post. For the #2 post, make a little jumper to the BATT post. Other thread...http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=128977

I've had lunch there, pretty cool views of Tulsa, but the food wasn't all that. Dinner is probably better though, we were there for lunch which was a buffet. Hope you enjoy your stay, don't mind the trees....

Just a follow up post. Diode on the Exciter wire to the Alt did the trick. If anyone needs one, I have 3 more 6A diodes from Radio shack. They sell them in packs of 4...

Sorry I missed this! Sheesh you'd think I'd catch the ONE question posted about my home town!!!! Where did you end up? Mahogany is pretty good, but next time try the Spudder. It's around 48th S. and Sheridan. Pretty cool place with a bit of T-Town oil boom flare and awesome steak. Don't forget your overalls!

Agreed! ^^^^ My machine shop guy has grown quite a bit from the first time I used him, about 10 years ago,which is a good sign. He's very thorough, VERY HONEST and does stuff right! Grumpy, good advice on those questions, never would have though of that!

WHULP! Was searching the Painless site and their latest version of the install manual has this new note! It's perfect, includes part number and everything. Thanks guys, should have this fixed soon! * Under some circumstances the connection of the alternator will not allow the engine to be shut off. If this occurs a diode will need to be installed inline on wire #914. This will prevent the alternator from back feeding into the ignition system and thus causing the engine to run with the ignition switch turned off. The Radio Shack part number for the diode is 276-1661. It is to be installed with the stripe towards the alternator. I posted a link to the manual in the painless sticky at the top of this sectionl.

Ran across this and though I'd post it here... The Painless Manual... http://www.painlessperformance.com/Manuals/90501Manual.pdf

I'll grab a diode at lunch. Still confused between the TWO different ways documented on hooking up the #1 and #2 posts.

OK, so I broke down and bought the new Delco ALT. Read throught the Painless book on how to hook up the 3 wire ALT and it said to hook the wires like this. Bat Post on back 12V Battery Post #1 - Run the Exciter wire #2 - Jumper to the Bat Post 12V possitive. All hooked up and ready to roll, car starts up, volt meter shows 14V now instead of 11! I drive around the neighborhood and all makeing sure everything is fine. Pull into the garage, double check all the guages and then turn off the key...... CAR STAY's RUNNING! First I guessed that my ignition switch had completly failed, so I pulled the wires out of the back and nothing, still running. I got the car to stop by turning in the idle screw a couple times, since I didn't feel like getting shocked when I pulled the coil wire. SO, I get on the net and find several areticlas that state I need to hook up the wires as follows (here's one of the articles http://www.rmahc.com/alternator.html) BATT - to Batt Post #1 - Used to hook to the warning light, if the alt fails it acts as a ground. #2 - Used to Excite the Alt, can be hooked to the excite wire OR to a jumper to the Bat Post. This is basically the OPPOSITE from what the Painless Book states. Do you guy's have any input?

I pulled it appart and could smell that the rotor had burnt up, looking into it a bit more and you could see that some of the insulator on the wrappings were toasted. Then pulling the rotor out the rear bearing had NO grease in it. The shaft and all the rollers were really jacked. What's funny is that everything looked really nice. I'm guessing that it was just a lemon. I've had it for about 2 years, far too long to claim the 90 day warranty so I didn't bother. I decided to cut my losses, cored it for an AC Delco unit from the parts store with a lifetime warrenty. It's not a 1 wire hook up but that's not a big deal, just need to pull the tucked wires out of where ever they are an hook up the exciter or whatever its called., and make a little jumper. I took advantage of having the alt out and made a rear support braket which was needed horribly. The alt was shaking a bit at idle and would smooth out at rmp (that may have helped it fail so quickly) but now with the new rear support, it's perfectly sturdy at idle. Lemonade right?

I dig! I'm going to stop by O'reilly's on the way home and see if they have one as well. Looks like they have the individual parts, I'm sure they have a kit.

Talking to some guy's here at work didn't net much either. Some suggest going w/ a quality name brand unit to avoid the china stuff. Reason being the china stuff my require 2-3 units before you get something dependable.

Bought a Black 85 AMP One wire alt from Factory Direct Discount Race Parts way back in '06. But only recently have I been able to run my car. Saturday after I just got my exhaust finished, I hear this screaming on the way home and it's the 'new' alt. I figure it's a set of cheap bearings or something that caused it to die so quickly. I'd like to get a bit higher amp alt but don't want to pay a ton of $$ for it. Any of you guy's have a good cheap source for a one wire alt? Searching netted Powermaster, and and a couple others, but most of them are CHROME and around the same price point. I'd really like a simple 'natural' finish. Thanks.

Saturday Morning I got up early(ish), drove as quietly as possible with open exhaust to the muffler shop. They had it for a couple hours and the work was pretty good for the price. They said I can bring it back for any minor adjustments later. Basically what I am running now is the square port shorty headers, 2-1/2" w/ a H pipe behind the tranny w/ turbo mufflers, I really like the sound. Noticing a couple of things that bother me w/ my first runs. I've probably put 10 miles or so on the car (need to hook up that speedo!) The bearings on my NEW CHEAP ebay alternator are screaming so i'll be looking for a solution to that, I'm thinking of getting a bearking kit or something. Also the Holley Red fuel pump is really noisy, anyone notice this? I mounted it in the stock location with the rubber mounting pad but is just too loud. Anyway, driving it home, getting on the on-ramp, this thing really moves! I'm pretty excited that everything is working and holding up after a couple of hard pulls. Also gave my Wife and Little brother a quick ride. Crystal:What is that SCREAMING! (this is after a short WOT in 2nd) ME(With a grin): That is a V8!

Mike, Glad you got it sorted. Not sure, most of the painless kits are built towards rewiriring utilizing GM alternator with the internal regualtor. I personally went w/ a 1-wire hook up. There is no reason you couldn't swap your alt over to the GM one.

I'm digging Forza2 so far, havn't played a ton, I think I'm to level 13 or something? I love the car selection, ability tune and actually swap motors, as well as the paint and stuff. At times the physics are off but for the most part, it feels like I'm driving a car and I think they did a pretty good job. Having said that....Has anyone played the demo for the new Burnout Paradise? Satifies a different part of the brain BTW I love all the Gran Truismo games for the PS 1 & 2. AND I really love how close the track renderings are from console to console. ALL those hours spend on GTurismo were not in vein when playing forza!

The above is NOT CORRECT!!! Sorry I didn't post my end solution. I'll have to double check the switch but I think there are only 3 wires on the ign switch currently. I figured out my switch is bad and the contacts are badly worn. Especially the contacts for the starter circuit. So I ended up NOT using the above wiring and added a pushbutton for the starter circuit. Sorry I didn't post my end solution. Again, I appoligize for not following up on this. I have some other wires to check up on for Mikelly this weekend. I'll WRITE DOWN everything and post back up.

I'm really glad to see guy's doing this particular swap! V8INtheZ, do you plan to document your madness?

-My Wife and family -Z Car, Explorer Sport (really anything mechanical ) -Used to Mtn Bike when I was in Shape, would really like to hit those bike parks in Whistler I saw on TV the other day. -Home theater stuffs -Working on the house -Dinking w/ stuff, my latest URGE is to start making some GREEN products of some sort out of the junk in my garage -X360 (Currently Rainbow 6 and Forza 2) Crystal likes Rainbow 6 waayyy too much, currently we are playing for an hour almost every day! I'm sure there's more, but all of the above is the reason it takes me forevery to do anything, and i'm sure you all are the same way!

Any quick thoughts as to why it starts to run very irradic when above 3300 rpm or so? Should I just pull the vacume advance all together?