BillZ260

Now having driven mine (if only around the block) my set up seems to shift pretty smoothly, clutch isn't very heavy and works well. I havn't put any real load on any of it yet but everything seesm to be working well. T-5 Cobra R internals, Ram flywheel PP and clutch.

Well, what's sad is that I actually got it running almost exactly 1 year ago to the DAY! I was traveling so much this year, I did ZERO to the far for over 9 months!!! No burnouts yet, but the rear stepped out on my very first run a couple times. My torque curve is going to be murder on those 215/45/17's!

David, I'll have to look up the PN's. I'm pretty sure it's their 1 step up from stock 10.5" disk and pp. I went with the Billet flywheel because 1. I needed a new one and 2. didn't feel like I needed a scattersheild w/ my HP, but wanted a little piece of mind. Power ratings from my motor are in the low 300's, torque should be close to 400.

Specs short list as requested Engine:355/Alum RPM heads and intake, Eddy 650 Carb, Eddy "400" Cam/roller rockers, ballanced, etc... Trans:T-5/Cobra "R" internals GM input shaft,Carbon Kevlar syncros?,Hurst Billet Pro shifter (Love it BTW) Clutch:Ram Billet Flywheel, 10.5" PP and disc,Tilton HTOB and 1" Tilton Master (3/4" was too small) Driveshaft: local truck driveline specialist place end pieces from Ebay/JTR Rear: Stock R180, I think they are 3.36. I have an R-200 that I'd like to add a limited slip to. Suspension: 1" Dropped MSA Springs, Tokico Blues, Urethane busshings, Stock front sway, no rear currently. Wheels: 17" MoMo "Sports" (Thinking of 17" AA Torque Thrusts) Spacers, 215/45/17 Potenza's. Probably missing some stuff. I want to change out my current Fuel Cell with one that is less visible. I havn't done anything with the interior other than the full dash pad and Autometer Phantoms. Probably missing some stuff... I have a vid but I need to upload it to my home puter. I'll try to get that done soon. Need to find my freaking licence plate! Dunno where I put that? I think I can 'quietly' limp it to the muffler shop and get the exhaust finnished up sometime soon, but I need my plate! Thanks for the comments guys! ----Bryan, did you get your wiring sorted?

Thanks JSM. I was showing my wife the video and she said she'd never seen me smile like that when i got out of the car. I don't know if that's good or bad, but the feeling was incredible. Having something that you've put all this effort into, and actually getting to EXPERIENCE it! Thanks again to EVERYONE here that has helped me move this thing forward to the point that it is. Maybe in 5 more years it will actually be "Finnished"

Thanks KTM, that looks pretty good. I like your colors, remind me of...well a KTM I really like the color/contrast on the hood, I'm just not sure about continuing the stripe all the way back w/ no body lines to support the contrast you know?

I have a Ram clutch, I think the pressure plate / flywheel and disk cost me about 500. Loose the billet flywheeel and you're looking at about 300+. I think mine is a 'stock upgrade' which means stock peddle feel but a bit more pressure at the disk.

Thanks! That could come in handy

Wasn't sure if I'd get everything I needed to get done yesterday and today but I did! Replaced the Master Cyl (swapped up from 3/4" to 1") Dropped the exhaust Buttoned up the cluth line Cleaned some welds on the exhaust Replaced Oil pan and gasket New dipstick I it was pretty cold out today but I got on pace after lunch. Got everything buttoned up, test ran it to temp and checked for leaks, only a small coolant leak, maybe at the heater core lines? Need to find, but it's minimal. Dropped her off the J-stands, fired her back up. Clutch issues are apparently worked out, went right in to reverse so I backed her up and drove her around the block! What a rush! Shifts pretty smooth, TONS of power, ZERO traction! It's perfect Still tons to clean up and finish, but mechanically this thing is 95% done. Now to figure out that paint scheme I've been racking my brains on, and the interior... Thanks Hybrid Z I'd have NEVER gotten as far as I have with out you guys! I have some vid, will post it as soon as possible!

WHULP! Just took the car for spin after 5 years of it sitting in the garage!!! Clutch works perfect, not too heavy. This car is going to be a handfull!!! Thanks for the help Terry.

Tough break! I guess a $3.00 bag of wire retainers it too much effort for a SC install...

Wait for the Gran Turismo HD to come out if it isn't already. Dunno how it's going to compare to Forza 2, but I imagine it will be better. I personally went X360, couldn't wait 2 years for PS3's to come down to realistic prices...although, I do wish I had one

Sorry for the confusion, was just happy to have it release! It was the piston diameter that fixed it. I swapped out the Tilton threaded pushrod and replaced with the stock Datsun pushrod since the threads are different. This lets me utilize the stock bracket that connects the pushrod to the brake peddle. When swapping out this rod, I just noticed that it was about an inch or so shorter than the tilton rod. I used the datsun rod in the 3/4" Tilton Master too. I just thought it was odd that I ended up adjusint the braket almost all the way out to get it to release the clutch, with the drastic master cyl change.

CLUTCH IS RELEASING! One thing I noticed when I was sticking the new 1" tilton in, was when I swaped the pushrod w/ the Z pushrod the Z pushrod is a lot shorter than the tilton. With that said I started out w/ the (whatever it's called) connector about halfway on the threads. Trial and errored it a couple of times and it ended up back to where the 3/4" was, at the very end of the pushrod. It does release, so I'm calling it good. I guess the 7/8 wouldn't have worked, and the peddle isn't that heavy. Any thoughts? Anyway. Tomorrow I'm replacing the oil pan that has a small hole with new one w/ fresh paint And I hope to be rolling this dude down the road very soon!

Since this is ALWAYS in the back of my mind! I finally broke down and bought Forza2 for the XBox (not for this purpose but anyway). I was playing and finially got up to where I could buy the Farilady and was just playing around in the paint section. SO... I bought the 17" American Racing Torque Thrusts which are perfect for the look I'm wanting. So far I've done one of my idea's above, I'll attempt the rest later. Let me know what you think... The above Corvette LeMans paint layout, my fave. Same layout, but with a silver stripe. A little more suddle but don't know if it's any better or not?

leave it alone!

And another! I thought this was a repost, since I've already done this to my Z with the same guages (which look just perfect in the dash I might add) based upone another thread. But smoorenc's approach is a bit different and it gave me a little inpiration to make my install a little better than it was before. I also have two smaller Volt and Fuel guages that I have been having issues keeping cinched up againt the plate i have in the old AC control location, and the picks of smoorenc's guage brackets inspired me to cut my aluminum bar bracket to a similar shape and it worked perfect! I love these guages! I love this site! KASH: I got mine from Summitt, I'm sure I shopped around, but there are probably better deals to be had, I still cringe at the $$'s I paid for the set, I think it was over 500. BIG: Electric Speedo and ach 2-1/16: Wtr Temp / Oil Pressure / Vacume-Boost Smaller: Volt and Fuel

I think Jeff is looking for comments on the valance he's modified since it's what he's using. I think it looks just about right. If the photochop by Trumpet is an indicator, I'd say it's right on

I'm a little closer, but....I've never driven a V8 Z either... ahem...

Good Score!

Yeah, your set up is completely different from mine, I think my PP has a bunch of fingers... Parts came in last night, give me some time and i'll let you know how it goes... I'm pretty sure my 200lbs would crush any one of those little guys..

I made up the 50 lbs, i have no clue what the specs are for the pressure plate fingers. I just used it as constant to show the new formulas i learnded, but it was also kind of guessitmated based on the currently LIGHT peddle feel. What type of clutch are you using? This Ram that I have is a upgraded stock replacment, so I didn't expect a heavy clutch feel. BUT it is odd that a 3/4 doesn't work for one HTOB when it does for another. Even with different brands, it seems the dimensions of the slave piston would have to be close, say w/ in 10%. But then again, your comment on the heavy vs light fingers kind of makes sence. But I don't know much about clutch variations and how this and that can change depending on what you have. I guess it goes to show that you can there are so many variables when working w/ these types of parts! Every now and again, I find myself saying, "if you'd have gone w/ a built 700R4 you'd be driving your Z!" But then I think, it wouldn't be as fun! It's all about the learning process!!!

Re-reading this thread and this is confusing. I would expect the Clutch mfg to quote the distance at the pressure plate.

Maybe I don't understand basic hydralics? AH! DOH. I get you. It will be more like pressing directly on the clutch fingers, where the smaller piston takes less effort but more movment. 1/2 the distance is fine, since it's moving almost full peddle stroke under pressure and not fully releaseing. EDIT: this made me want to know more about what's happening. Found this site by doing a "basic hydralics" search http://www.free-ed.net/free-ed/MechTech/hydraulics01/default.asp Below are what I think are the differences I should see between the 3/4" and 1" master assuming the fingers require 50Lbs of force and a slave piston diameter of 1". The follow what you noted above Terry, thanks for making me truely understand! Dia / Piston Area / Force / Distance (0.75) / .441 SqIn / ~28lbs / 1.77" : 1" (.680 to move slave .400) (1.00) / .785 SqIn / ~50lbs / 1.00" : 1" (.400 to move slave .400) I guess i can measure the peddle arm assembly, it's pivot point, and arm actuator location and really figure out what this should take. I may just do that to help future folks know what it SHOULD take to move their slaves.

I wondered if the piston was a doughnut shape, but couldn't remember. So I can assume that it probably 1" or less surface area considering the hole is to allow the tip of the input shaft to protrude through, right? I do understand the the feel of the pedel should feel 'lighter' with a larger master and the basics of hydraulics. Right now with the 3/4" I have it adjusted to MAX throw. The peddle has resistance with in probably 1/8" in of movment, so basically it's pushing the HTOB throughout the entire swing, right? It's basically Rams clutch that is 1 step above stock, so the peddle isnt' really all that heavy already. With a 1" Master, it should feel lighter, the amount of movment will be reduced by around 30%. (Can I assume that?) Thanks for the insight Blue, parts will be in on the 18th, we'll see how it goes. I REALLY want to drive this car!