BillZ260

Thumbing through the latest? PHR last night and there was a Lunati new product listing for a 4/7 swap cam. Says after you install this cam you swap the 4/7 firing order. Less stresses on the crank and smoother power bands. They come in solid roller for sbc and bbc. What are you guy's thoughts on these. Just wondering...

So you picked up the bumps? Happy with them? Car looks pretty smooth.

looks like an airgap, but I can not figure out that induction sys... ooks like that cyl is getting 2 fuel feeds and somehow injects fuel over to the funky TB. Yeah, would like to know the story on that deal...

Yeah, a couple of weeks ago I we pulled in to "this is the last one I swear" sale and low and behold there is a Z in the drive...with a 377!!!. He had a set of square port shorty headers for 40 bucks a JTR set up that he made for 35 and he gave me his old hood latch relocater, he switched to hood pins. What are the odds.

Here is the my post from when I completed my rails, looks like the photo hosting isn't currently working, I will double check and make sure the links are right. http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=28937&highlight= Looks like sony image station is having some issues, keep checking, it will show up sooner or later

I posted some fairly detailed pics about 6-8 months ago, search my posts and go back a couple of pages. I cut my floors out due to rust and used the top of the frame rail as part of the floor. Then I cut the sheet to fill in the areas and seam welded it all in, floors are STURDY! Also you should check out pete paraska's home page, I used his blueprint dwg's for reference. They are simple to build if you have the right tools and will cost you about $1-200 depending on what you have to pay for steel now. I put my foorpans and a set of these connectors for about 40 bucks, but that was WAY before the steel market went all freaky.

BUMP I was messing with my driverside door last night cause it won't lock, closed or open. Pulled the latch mech and played with it, cleaned it abit and it started working easily and smoothly. Put er back in and now it is binding again! Can't lock with the door lock or the key. ALSO the 'RAMP' that is located on the door below the lock mech is broken, couldn't find my victoria brit catalog last night. Does anyone have a good set of these, mine only have one mounting hole each, and they push off when you close the door. Any advice or suggestions are appretitaed, thanks.. (This is the stuff I get to play with while broke/looking for an engine)

This is my opinion, but if you want to know and understand your car, rewire it. The factory stuff is so mind boggling that if you even try to fix other peoples 'mods' of, or other damage to the system, you will go nuts. Or maybe you won't but I ripped out all mine and went to town, with nice new LABLED wiring from painless. SOOO EASY! mostly

OK OK, I will get on this , I will try to get started tonight and see what we come up with

STYLE!

I would suggest you start reading them all. THere are a lot of different schools of though, so depending on what you plan to do with your car some thought might work better for you than others. I personally have built 2"x3" subframe connectors, have a SCCA rollbar and will tie that into my strut towers.

looks great! I want to see that gas cap!!!

I still need to create you all a painless to z diagram. It may only work with the 260's cause I am not sure how similar each year is to eachother. Anyway all my accesories worked when I hooked the batt charger to the sys, that was a milestone. Will try to remember to make that dwg...

Yep, searcing is cool! Just an update all my stuff works and wasn't all that difficult. Get some good diagrams of the stock harness though...

I wonder if the step ladder was his 'inspiration'

FAMILY ROD!

bump is there anything that get's loosened up or that I should look for? I am dealing with some other issues now but when I get to the door, I would like to know a bit more about it. thanks

which episode?

That is the only thing I HATE about the PS2 Wheel, we play with it on a TV dinner tray, which sucks so I usually use the JS, which I kick ass at. I am wanting to work on a 'system' that will allow better use and comfort of the wheel and peddles. I am looking forward to trying out the 900 Deg wheel that is supposed to be coming out for GT4. If my 'system' works it could be marketable. Everyone spends $100 plus on this equipment and never uses it, so I figure it is worth a shot. Of course now I expect Dossomer to tell me to get back to work on the Z! So the 'system' may have to wait. Oh yeah, finished all the GT4 "SCHOOL" tests/challanges, most at the end were very challenging and I had to play multiple times to finish w/ bronze. There was really only ONE totally CRAP test. I was sooo pissed off that they spent time on this and having it in the game totally didn't make sence to me. The 3rd to the last test/challange was a PRIUS hybrid (not the type of hybrid i really care to race) and you have to do a lap in 1:30 - 1:50 to pass. OK well first try I got 1:29, i am thinking GOLD cool I can rock a PRIUS well FAIL was the deal. Apparently you have to get good time AND good gasmilage WTF? Too weird. I hope that there isn't more of this waste my time crap in the full version. Other than that the game is slick.

It has to be this months or I am assuming, I bought one off the rack last weekend because of that article. Yeah, lash is no biggie. I had a 2.0 OHC Isuzu Trooper. After I rebuilt that motor I checked the lash all the time, guess I thought it was "COOL"

LET ME KNOW WHEN YOU WANT TO SELL SOME OF THAT STUFF

I have a block with that casting in my garage and it was also supposedtly 72 vette block. Has a T in the vin so I figured it was truck 350 4 bolt. Although it did have some SMALL valve (1.5/1.74) 327 heads on it. Which confused me. Could this have been a 327? It has a 4" bore, how do I check the stroke of the crank? Measure the distance from OD of one rod journal to the od the main jornal add the radiuses of those OD's? I am not using it because it is cracked. Just wondering if it was a 327 or a 350 because that block was only stated as a 2 or 4 bolt 350 in any of the documentation I read. Maybe have some parts to sell that are worth something? Everything but the block was in usable shape. I may have gotten the same deal but for free cause of the cracked block. But I am skeptical.

I work in MFG so we see lots of cheesy safety stuff but that is sooo over the top! I loved it. I know it's bad to be laughing at this stuff because some of it really happens but man, it's funny!

What day this weekend, what times? I am driving to Dallas friday(what a way to spend a vacation day right?) and I am going to pick up this short block. But hopefully I will be running out of excuses with this motor Saturday I think my wife and I are going to be taking a glass blowing class. I get to see if I can make a shifter knob OR maybe a QUE BALL JK!!! It is pretty cool and I am looking fwd to it. Sunday, guess I should do what you keep tellime me to do and get off my rear and get to work on this car!! Is it just a 2 hour drive? Will think about it.

That is a pretty cheap price but it is ugly and BIG! I have a product brochure for EAGLE EQUIPMENT lifts that I can send you (since I owe you one) or you can go to http://www.eagleequip.com and check their stuff out. The prices are quite a bit more but the quality is very good (Guy here at work has one) and the mechanix of them don't look questionable. They have a huge selection of product and free shipping on some stuff.Hope you find what you are looking for.