fl327

looks a little mild for 600hp. I do like the skyline radiator and the clutch fan setup though, makes it look super factory stock. Thats a nice one, how it just looks right at home in there. You can get close to 600hp by changing out turbos and still retaining factory plumbing.

heat dissapation properties are different between the two.

ICICE9

so youre saying a starion intercooler is like no intercooler at all ? thats interesting. great numbers, I would be shifting at 6k too.

advan is yokohoma and hard to find in usa,

deal

I reused mine, with no ill effects and a year on them. If something happens, Ill get ARP. maybe dumb question: The arp is reusable right? I thought they only had studs not bolts?

you can always get a really crappy welder from sears, and just it to tack things in place and wait for mike d or jumbo to help you seam the stuff in. Cutting a few places seems like the only way its going to work, cmon man you cant give up that fast.

hey on3go we have the same plan. Im just staying L until I get sick of it, not happening anytime soon I like the idea of just changing out exhaust wheels to steel but stock size for the good spool and getting stock comp side machined out to take a slightly bigger wheel, but hey 392hp would do me fine for a long time...

expensive depends on if aux has to make his own turbo manifold, then it starts piling up. Turbocharged Lt1, like thats ever going to happen ooooooooooooooh, whats up now

Tranny fits in there pretty good. You could always go dry sump and NA Do they make top mount turbo manifolds for rotaries? I think that would help solve that issue some. Could always add a u joint in the steering column to get around the mount, or drill a hole. Anyways I think youre doing alright for a swap with no documentation. Cmon, get it ready for motorsport, were planning a gumbrall rally up there

z31=elite! In the next coming weeks, I will be attempting to run the infamous maf and ecu only conversion on a s130t, should be interesting. And yes, the maf conversion makes routing stuff like this really easy. the afm gets in the way of everything plumbing wise since we run the sideflow head. Best thing IMEO to do is get rid of the rubber boot altogether, it slows down the air intake speed pretty good through the bellows. It adds a bunch of bends to the intake air. What I did for my air intake was 3" pipe to the maf, moving the maf away from the exhaust manifold, and running the pipe thru the radiator support and use a big air filter that touches the back of the front bumper, with a air horn resembling adapter welded to the front to further bring up air speed, as it forces a 8" diameter initial air charge through a 3" pipe. The system consists of 1 sweeping 30degree bend and one short 45 around the radiator support vs. having 2 flexible 45 degree bends that warp around plus the under car routing that slows things down some more. True, if you are running upgraded fuel and turbo and what not, this kind of stuff doesnt matter as much since efficiency is up and can compensate , but when you are working with a 260cc injector, a relatively small turbo that loses efficiency basically the moment you go into double digits, the small gains like this are worth it to me. Replacing it with piping is instantly noticible from the butt dyno. When I ran the jpipe setup and the rubber boot, it felt like the boost would just snap on like night and day. When I changed the system out to what I did above, it makes the car feel like a really nice NA, smooth boost.

its probably because the rb25 is rwd, vs. 26 being awd and needing a seperate trans to be sourced out. 5500 sounds average.

I dont know if I get them very cheap or not, about 3k, but the thing is with my import guy is that he doesnt charge me more if it has aftermarket on it already, and its been tested. plus if its crap, he takes it back!!!

pull the wg line off

all those widebody shots make me want a z31!!!

open vent bov may not be the best way to keep turbos alive, but theres nothing like the looks on peoples faces when a 70s car hits WHOOSH on em!! the dsmIg works for you w/o the hose attached? thats cool, i know 1g owners who take the hose off and that sucker is pretty loud, it will be easy as pie to get a aftermarket bov for you since they make bovs with flanges that bolt right up. With the open vent, I notice no lag between shifts. IME experience, the only thing that made boost response bad was initial intercooler fitment, I still miss the KABASH feeling of boost when the jpipe hits, even though im faster with more boost and IC.

ditto what zgad said. run the wastegate line to the intake direct, that will bring boost back up to where it was before, difference now is that you are intercooled and it will be faster.

Hey, When do you think you guys are going to have another rio vista event? Saw the tomohawk at the marina show, nice burly exhaust note on that bad boy for sure. I know the car is in paint, would love to see it in person, and better yet, would love to do heads up against it

any size you can afford, but they do get cheaper if you do a five stud conversion, but then the five stud costs a nice sum though, but then youre already doing cv so doesnt matter as much. ive seen 300 series tires on a number of imsa flared z cars. chevy lug pattern needs a five stud conversion plus an adapter to the larger chevy 5x4.75 pattern, not enough meat on stock hub to go that big. typical 5x4.5 is always available and its the basic 5 stud pattern for most wheels. what i would do is flare the car first, and take some measurements, odds are with that much room a 300 series tire of any diameter rim you can dream of will fit, i think your biggest issue will be getting one big enough to fit.

bre paint job is nice. Ive seen the black and white 510 with the bre scheme, its really nice. reaction research makes great stuff. If I were doing a weekend warrior, I would do something like the 510, it looks evil.

there supposedly a guy near me that runs the diesel block with a p90 or maybe even early 240z head, said that there were 22 mods or so needed to put a gas head on the block, and quite a few more needed to run. he runs low 13s in this car, and its in a early MAXIMA. good luck, sounds like you have a pretty cool treasure hunt on your hands!

just race him for dinner or drinks or something, pink slips is so dumb and money makes people bitter. I have not seen a pink slip race yet where the loser didnt just keep on going and run away, or argue until the winner didnt want to deal with it anymore. btw: a gsx with semi bald tires and a nice launch is an easy 1.7 60footer best thing you can do is hook hard on him so he doesnt get away from you too far out the gate, or it is over...unless you have enough to take it out the back door, and judging just by setup alone, I cant see that happening. If you dont hook, youll lose...

it should be in by next year, shipping is slow this time of year obviously. if you guys want to roll out and check it out, we can do that. Im holding judgement back, but man if it has less than two turbos and i see tubular exhaust, i just might have to...

Just got word from my buddy the clip man. A gts (rb25 rwd) skyline front clip is coming into his shop, with something special bolted up to that rwd trans----The frekin RB26dett!!!!!!! Of course, he shoots the word to me and im about to scream!!! Studying front clips, I have found this to be true of 99 percent of them 1. the faster they are, the harder they crash (more aftermarket/susp) 2. body panels are unusable alot of the time 3. only the fast cars frekin change their goshdarn oil (i heard its really expensive in jp to change oil, and cars dont go a lot of miles due to smog anyway, so they dont change their oil, i cant count how many times Ive seen a jdm b16a honda engine burp some real nasty oil lookin stuff. 4. the jspec guys modify their cars as a whole in a very singular, very thorough, and very precise way. seems like they are very goal oriented from the start, and work on their cars systematically. This means they do something like suspension/brakes/rims, then cooling/ducting/air then POWER..... These variables change depending on what they are going for, drift, drag, wangan, whatever. Which leads me to my point. The rwd skyline car coming into the shop has Godzilla under the hood, and if he got that far, I really really doubt its stock Anyways probably wont do it, but I was tempted more than ever the other night to do it, we were having a long talk about me being the only daily driven 26 car in the San Francisco Bay Area, and it had a nice ring to it. I have planned this one out for the future, but it seems like the time is now, I can get this setup relatively cheap, rear suspension included, for way under 5k. I dont think I can do it this time but DANGIT!!!! Icice9 tune in...