fl327

not turbo. What I think is best is to just keep your eyes open for a complete turbo z car, that is going for a good enough price. Shoot, find one that runs good enough so that you can learn it before you destroy it even. You need a lot of things and the best way to ensure you have them all is to get a running or non running turbo z that is all there. Rome wasnt built in a day partner. Breathe....

atk is rebuilt engine ONLY. to get ecu harness dist etc etc, best bet is to find an entire car putting it together in small pieces you end up paying a lot and still being incomplete. best bet is to find an entire zxt, i myself have destroyed four 2+2 zxt cars this year alone. Junkyard is also a good place to look, but once agian, the price of paying for parts seperately is a lot more than a lot of us have gotten our donor cars for. Any Z trans will work behind turbo motor. trannies are cheap for these engines, i wouldnt worry about finding a complete driveline, if you can get the engine for a fair price do it. otherwise look for an entire car, they are around cheap, you may have to wait but they do come around, its not hard. I cant tell you how much you should pay because people want different amounts for what they have. I bought my runnning donor for 160$$, if thats any indicator.

atkengines.com or try searching for atk engines, it will come up quick. or just wait around for a zxt to show up for sale wrecked or running cheap, its not hard.

105.7 saturday night program is called subsonic, and it is exactly what you described 10pm-4am all music pretty much non stop. my buddy listens to it religiously every saturday. Im down with it I guess, I do forget to tune in sometimes though. What is cool about the show on saturday nights is, if you like a song, write down what time you heard it and email the dj, he will write you back and tell you the name and album of the artist, which is cool since some of the music played is pretty hard to find. We have done that more than once, and he has hooked it up, nice guy that subsonic dj. 92.7 is an all dance music type station, but lately its been suck. When is the next rio vista meeting anyway? 104.5? havent heard of them , hmmm, hey Davy, I think I caught you listening to German rap/house (haus music) music once it sounded like Haanz and Fraanz with drums

302 ford sounds more like what you are looking for. 7000 rpm is very achievable with heads, cam, and very little else. Maybe a 302 chevy

turbohoses.com atpturbo.com both of them carry the coupler you need for the afm, look at transition coupler/reducer. you should try and mount the ic first, and if you have to change inlet outlet formation, change it before solid mounting the ic. then use a coat hanger or something like that and figure out your piping situation, how many bends of what how much of what whatever. it helps to figure out how much you can have welded together and what you have to use a coupler for. for the intake, its different for every different car, on my car i run a transition coupler off the turbo, to a 3" pipe that has a slight angle in it, to the afm, to a 30 degree sweeper to a 45 around the radiator support, to my air filter that touches the back of the front bumper Hks racing suction baby.

atk engines sells those turbo engines rebuilt all the time zxt cars arent hard to find internet makes it too easy man...

under boost, pvc can leak from the threads, it can split open, heat can warp it, blah blah blah. its not good. for the afm i used a 2.25 to 3" reducer silicone coupler.

JCwhitney sells the mandrel bends for a good price, its where a lot of us got our charge pipes from. A good muffler shop can do the intercooler mod i guess. I would suggest not using any pvc piping, except possibly for the air intake off the afm. I would INVEST in silicone couplers, and good clamps. I made sure i used very good couplers and all my piping is secured nicely, and have blown ZERO hoses in an entire YEAR of daily,. turbo, driving. For the extra mile I would weld brackets to the pipe to secure it to the frame, to prevent them from walking off as well, and run a few hump hoses to compensate for engine movement.

hope you get that one settled out, if the clutch isnt slipping, i would look and see about the throttle plates and the linkage, and possibly the timing. I remember my old v8z, one thing it could do that my turbo car has trouble with was burning rubber, oh lord was it awesome. A nice high rev shot and a sidestep, and it was sideways with billows and billows and smoke from both tires, as long as I could hold the gas down, the smoke would keep pouring, after a few seconds, I couldnt even see behind me, man it was great!!!!! with the turbo car, i do the same thing and get some rubber, then the car just hooks

Me, among others, would love to see a twin cam L motor. Realistically however, to me the head is just the start of the domino effect that would make a project like this far more than overshoot the cost of a jdm or domestic dohc I6. I can see the head being built, thats one thing, next, you have to build the bottom end to take the new mid high rpm powerband, which is also very doable, BUT, the balance work, associated parts like a damper and all is big $, considering that a STOCK rebuild and BnB goes for 3000 at any reputable Z engine shop. Then theres the trans, sure there are tons of L five speeds out there and they go for cheap, but the newest ones out there are 20 years old now, and havent been rebuilt. In my case, these are why I wouldnt do the DOHC head even if it came out, even if it was "cheap." (the crowd is stunned!) I can see putting down 2k on a head, another 2k bottom end, and hopefully not to have to do any trans work, theres still more money to be spent in random parts and accesories mandated by such a change, like manfolds, pipe routing, throttle linkage, induction setups, blah blah, you know what im saying? It would be 7-10k easily from nickel and dimeage, and I havent even got rubber to burn yet!!! I am not trying to dissuade you from your goals, If you really do go through with that dohc head I wish you the best, if you are going for originality I applaud you, If youre going for all out power, I would go with another route personally, either the RB or the JZ engines if you need a I6 Dohc turbo (or two!) ANd if you really have to make your own head, I say go for it, the reasons above are just MY personal opinions on why I would use one. I can understand why you would want to, since my personal mantra towards creating my cars is that I build them for me, and could really care less if somebody doesnt approve or like what I do with my steel!!! Good luck either way.

thats hoover chans turbo header, its one off.

check voltage to coil with key on. see if there is voltage, should be. if not bypass coil transistor and apply direct 12v to + if it starts, bad connection at key switch no start-module is bad, coil perhaps(ive not yet had a coil go out on me) make sure both relays go "click" with key on power, if they do not click or click too much, check em. check cranking voltage, if below 9v-ecu wont let the show go on.

motto from my importer is "the faster they are, the harder they crash"

i used the 9bolt pp and flywheel for 240mm, works good i didnt know about the trucks flywheel. I would use stock throwout bearing hub and fork from t5 on it, should be fine. im using a spec stage 2 turbo clutch with kevlar disk and hd pp, works well, pressure is lighter or same than stock, but grabs very very well, and is more slippable than a puck. i did have to make some pedal and freeplay adjustments to make it work right though, worked out well though.

I broke one once, where did it snap, mine snapped near one of the bolt holes, over time it had ovaled out and one day it just ripped in half. I had bad bushings on my bar though, giving it just that much play and boom, it was gone...

you might have a brake draggin? loose caliper bolt retainers are loose on pads check out your left caliper stiff steering? hmmmmmm....

its a good trans. my buddy beats the crap out of his 240sx, drifts it, powershifts it, downshifts on the freeway, he has blown a clutch in half, and burnt one to the point of freewheel, but the tranny is fine!!! btw: he ran a 225mm z clutch last time around.

check out the 510 websites. I swear they can make a z zx five speed work behind the ka24, why not other way around. The ka24 tranny is very strong, I would say it is atleast as strong as the turbo t5, but a little easier shifting wise.

dial calipers dont lie.

how much paper work do you have the driveline?

I cant see selling mine anytime soon, sucker keeps running like a top. I have over 40k miles on my converted car so far, and its only been down for a week or so this year for mechanical-other times I was driving my other cars before I sold them. There is one turbo converted 280z on zcar.com right now.

scarab bellhousing is your dream come true, it puts a datsun stock slave cylinder in perfect position to operate any gm manual trans, except maybe a t56. very rare piece to. this one piece takes all the guesswork out of transmission hydraulics in the v8 swap. I would keep it.

I was thinking that to myself the other day. The v8 swap has been done over and again since the car basically came out in the 70s, there are just more of them out there, and therefore, more of them go for sale. The fi turbo swap is relatively newer, and there are just less of them out there.

cheaper alternative is to run a nice chrome tipped 3" exhaust with no muffler. I run a borla and 3" mandrel, and it sounds great. It is loud, but I have my car mummified with competition sound deadener, and lots of music