fl327

I would get rid of that rubber boot to the afm, personally. I found replacing it with a pipe intake changed the response dramatically, making entry to boost a whole world smoother. I would not worry about the length of intake pipe, I would try to make one with as little bends as possible. The stock rubber boot and air filter system adds a 90 degree bend and two 45 degree bends before air hits the blades, I changed this to one sloping 30 degree 3" bend to a 45 degree bend where air filter is mounted, much nicer. Air speed is very fast here, length wont hurt flow, its the bends.

im still up in the air as to what im going to do with the z31 setup. its running extremely well though!!! I do feel a definite response gain, 12psi hits hard as it always has. currently 20btdc, turned it back today. over my winter break, im going to finally put this turbo on, re do the downpipe, and get ready to boost hard. i would also love to check out sleepers spreadsheet, next year im going to turbo another 280z with my spare parts and would like to use full z31 harness to power it with zxt distributor.

I would find a small journal 327, and use aluminum heads. arp bolts on the bottom end should be good enough to keep it together camel hump heads had the 2.02/1.6 valve in them, flow good for the time but nothing compared to todays heads, alloy or cast, i like alloy though and would love to build a v8 with alloy heads. small journal is up to 67, concentration would be balancing the forged assembly. you gotta love the stock forged bottom end on those. my old z had a 327, and it used to belong to the same guy who owned your 70 before you!!! mine was mildly put together with 300rwhp or so, and made awesome power from 2500-6200rpm, bottom end solid as a rock, with nitrous! good luck on the 327, its my favorite chevy motor just because it has a nice ring to it, look at my name!!! build it up well, you could see 7k or more, and that would be fun.

i can only see two ways to make a fuel system good for 9k single plane carb setup (easiest way i can think of) holley super ram or whatever its called (rusty on my v8speak) i like the idea of an injector per cylinder, pointed in close proximity to the intake valve-its eficient and its great for performance. forget tpi getting more than 5k rpm with all the bells and whistles. either way efi that can support 9k on a v8 is bucks.

remember to pick up the intercooler cold air intake. centrifugal type s chargers these days use blow off valves and an intercooler, and they look like turbos.

doesnt hurt for the guy to ask, i think he just put that out there to see what would happen. have the mechanic check it out with you, and make him a fair offer based on mechanical condition and poor body condition, it wouldnt hurt.

i would go with a vg30det in the 240sx for six cyl swap; ca engine is truly a rb26 with two cyl chopped off. tuners have gotten 500hp out of the stock sr20det block though, and they are newer technology and all alloy, when you go jdm engine, best to get the newest one out you can find, since they are junkyard engines. betamotorsports.com is in the process of making mounts for sr into zcar would be a cool swap i think. L28et in a Maxima auto, thats what im talkin bout.

I would go fiberglass on the air dam and urethane on the side skirts the side skirts i would think would be the most prone to getting hurt on a lowered z going over speed bumps, since most of us already have to take speedbumps really slow and sideways. I have had fiberglass and urethane air dams, and i like the fiberglass better, but you do have to better care of your fiberglass. At &t did me the favor of wrecking my fiberglass air dam amount a year ago ($) and i replaced it with a used urethane one, and even when reinforced, it still has that smily face you get when the urethane distorts from getting abused a lot. I also felt the fiberglass one held up better at high speeds, vs my urethane one that i can see in my mind wiggling and moving around, not so good for aero but better than a stock valance. My cruising speeds start at 80, and the difference is noticeable. My favorite look is a lowered first gen z car with deep dish wheels and your classic air dam!

I run a spec stg.2, 240mm turbo clutch, kevlar disk and 450lb rated pressure plate, stock weight flywheel, its nice and hasnt slipped on me yet, and the pedal pressure is lighter than a valeo/factory nissan clutch!! im sure a light flywheel is a good thing, pricy though. I would recommend the stage 2 to people though, many 5th gear romps and high speed freeway cruises with hard stabs into boost, and no slip.

whats a good turbo car if you cant have a fire every now and then

will this work for AIC?

take advantage of the cold, you can tune around it and make for some nice driving, when its dry of course. hit my first real detonation last night, spiked 18, I was kinda relieved though, didnt start pinging until 16, audibly that is!

went and took the car for a ride, it was nice and cold outside, 12psi is hittin like a champion, z31efi is growing on me. 3000gt pulls to me, looks real enough, hes got 18s, and looks gaudy as ever. I look over and he points forward like lets do it. Im thinking to myself " I better freakin win, big battlestar galactica spaceship big boat looking shopping cart wing wearing big wheels having piece of..." Im almost hoping its not a turbo, but as we wait there for the light to turn green i start hearing the mitsu spool, and figure if i dont leave hard im gonna get whooped by a real ugly car, so I spool back, poor guy looks over and nods his head like "whoops" and the light goes. I hear this big gnarly thing make a huge whoop sound out of the tires and lunges forward (the physical sight of that car doing that was awesome, too bad it was slow as the matrix!), while im struggling for traction and gaining out of the hole, as soon as second hits im walking him pretty hard, and I get to the top of third and was about a car and change ahead of him. We get the next light, and i guess this civic, pretty guady looking as well but doesnt have the hi tech basketball shoe look going on with him rolls up, the 3000 decided to move to the far lane and keep his head straight! The honda has racing stickers on it, a roll bar and big wheels, as well as vtec, as he shows me by freereving his engine to kingdom come. He is two deep, so I figure this guy is dead. I figure I dont have to leave as hard so I dont even spool up for the guy, light goes, HE STALLS!!!! and im gone with the hazard lights for his @$$. He didnt even bother after that, and I hit the back9 back to my house to get back to my writing assignment. The z31 maf and ecu is giving me full power, that much I know. Ok, back to homework.

this has to be a joke. but if it isnt a joke, right on!!!!!

yes, or extractor bits as they are also commonly known as. caught me at a good time, im writing a paper right now and getting my post on as well.

ok fine, zts and zxts are known to have intermittantly faulty efi wiring connections that manifest themselves in the form of the "impossible" problem, also referred to as "mystery turbo death" that is remedied by wiggling, or cleaning and reinseration of the ecu molex ports. happy?

how much of the stud is sticking out of the head? if there is 1/2 inch or so, i would use a stud remover on it, they have them at autozone. or an easy out, or i would just drill it out, and use a heli coil. pb blaster kicks wd40 @ss.

all you need to do is swap out distributors to run the later year setups anyways. pretty easy. i have an extra distributor guaranteed to work if you want it, let me know. i converted from 81 efi to z31 before i ever fired up the car using the later distributor and the z31 chopper wheel. i run 81 harness, the nastiest looking one. when i took off z31, i ran 81 ecu with 83 distributor for a long time, after that its all 83 efi setup off the 81 harness, now im running 81 harness on a z31 ecu and maf, simple. hks s-afr should be good for leaning out the bigger injectors, ive heard the piggybacks like arent good for solving a lean problem, but are good for solving rich...

it cant be just the afm you need to adjust i think. something else is off. Ive seen 370cc installs that bearly even needed afm adjustments. what else did you do before installing the injectors, did you have them checked or anything, lumpy condition can also come from faulty injectors as well, which is why I will really never buy a used injector unless I know who had them before me and knew how the car ran. I am a cheap bastard like everyone else, but when it comes to my boost, fuel, tires, and sparks, I dont mess around...

really would like to do something like a bypass pipe, new turbo has 4" mouth and would hate to do a reducer coupler on it. so far so good, car is perkier, but its also really cold outside. didnt have to do the fuel pump relay though, i run it seperate, ecu doesnt know about the fuel pump. added another + and -? didnt do that either. want to try s-afc on i soon, but it wont do much without changing injector size. I like the jwt stuff once I think about it, Ive already made it basically a plug in, and its not bad price wise considering there is less dyno time involved except to really dial it in after a baseline. Im not looking to do anything nutty, just 300hp or close, and lots of 12s!!! Goal is to be able to run close to 12s anywhere, anytime, continue to pull down 20+mpg, drive it anywhere I want ,have a big stereo setup, and do real live dougnuts...make tons of turbo noises, and drive that sucker to MSA this year and formally introduce my gang, the NisMOBB.... s30s, s30as,s13s,s14s, pl510s, and no tt's

still a good price for all that polishing and powdercoating work, which is already at least 100 a wheel. 225/50/15 on a nice light rim is nice combo.

ok were on day3 on z31 swap, feels good so far, will be turning up boost back to "home" of 12psi and move timing to factory z31 20 btdc, currently at 24btdc (didnt change it when i swapped, 10psi intercooled). im wondering for those that have the swap, how many did it the way i have mine setup, using stock l28et harness with the pins for afm swapped and a few rudimentry things changed to get it to run? I am actually getting kind of fond of looking at the maf and getting ready for next seasons combo that should get me 12s, any kind of 12 will do until i finally get one, i know that when i do hit my 12, I might just get greedy... Just ran self dianosis, have to use a z31 o2, but maf and chts, cas, and other is just fine, mpg has stayed the same-not a good test, its been cold out and ive been beating on my car pretty good, dry and cold-turbo owners know what imean!!!! Anyways im interested in hearing if anyone else besides me and the two other people i know have done the z31 ecu and maf splice. I would comment more and show how to do the wiring, but it seems like weve all taken different routes to runnign the ecu. Ive decided to give the z31 another chance and it may be in use for next seasons 12 second attempts, due in part to the last long thread on z31 apps- I am the guy that will put his money where his mouth is, and walk in the next mans shoes... anyone try a z32 maf on one of these, it pins out almost identical, i dont now voltage values on it though. do you guys know this as well--240sx, 300zxna, t, and tt maf all use the same plug???

dish doesnt look right for 8" i wouldhave like to see tape measure across the rim, if it said 9" than its an 8, but if it said 8-its a 7..

anyone notice its the ones that swap l28ets that have to do this every so often, reset the ecu i mean. Its our faults, we are the ones who actually disconnect the wiring in the first place!!!