fl327

Heck yes, would be a perfect prequel to MSA show, which I am also trying to attend, both would be firsts for me! So, um, uh, its ashphault over at rio vista?

Doesnt brake fluid eat thru teflon?Not sure. I would put a dab of loctite on them and just lock em down like any other brake fitting, should be fine. Im about to do this swap, just need to order the brackets and lines, pls tell us how you like it!!!!

Thought you werent into racing? Hope that car can be saved. Im happy to see that you didnt list the dz 302 engine, smart guy knowing even when they pull em out, they dont go cheap! My old boss used to have a 302 z28 way back when that shifted at 8500, but that was the old days of good gas and cheap gas, and something stupid like 12 cr. Sounds like you know the answers to your own questions, will it be ready by april?

"I want about 300HP at the wheels, and might go for more HP in the future, possibly by supercharging. I know I do not want anything bigger than a 302, and I will not consider a 327, 350, 383, or 400 no matter how much someone tries to convince me. I am not really into racing, so I am not looking at serious competition, or drag, or anything that would make me go for lots of HP. I just want a fun daily driver with an exotic aspect of being high reving. The L28 that is in the Z right now is almost enough power for me, so I really dont need to worry about trying to make gobs of torque or really high HP." Sounds like you want a built Ford 302/289, it would be easier to meet all the goals of above and easier to get a good 5 speed trans behind one of them. I am a Chevy guy when it comes to my brand of Domestic racing, so I probably wouldnt never ever ever never use one in a build, but I wouldnt overlook it either. My buddies would never let me live it down if I came out Ford powered, oh I could just see it now High rpm Chevy is going to cost High rpm $, bottom line. I can see taking apart and lt1 and all the custom work turning into a nightmare, but perhaps making the fastest combo, since it would have reverse cooling for higher compression that the engine would need, and its a great motor overall. 283 wouldnt be bad I guess, steel crank and bottom end assemblys are pretty easy to get where I live, they have them on an exchange basis so that would be cool. Forged components mandatory for a high revver, at least for me. If I were doing something like this I would "settle" for a 327 and 7000rpm, but you wont consider it so its dead issue. Did you already pick up another z? I gave the older owner of the other z a visit the other day and told him about the car, he got kinda sad. He sends his condolensces (sp). 300rwhp is a far cry from the L28e that was in your z though, that car had about 145 at the crank, but its decieving since you its a 70 and it goes a longer way in the lightest of the early z family, plus the later zx engines make peak torque a lot lower than the earlier years of the L. 300 with some hook and youre looking at low 12s, maybe high 11. Good luck.

What offset are you running on this? When I was checking out your car at the coffee shop, I took note of your flare setup. Offhand I would say they were 4 inch backspace, and that would put them right under the zg flare, they may even be less, like 3.5 inch backspace. The more I look at the zg cars, the more and more I think about running them, so nice..

I tried to sit in a Cobra replica once, was not going to happen. Tranny tunnel is too wide for me, I cant sneak my foot into the gas pedal with my shoes on. The one we were working on was a 302/t5 combo carbed. It had 17k on it so its been around, from the passenger seat it was least as fast as my old v8z, except it was roofless Overall didnt like it, nice kit but it just didnt feel real to me. Run the Haltec already Randy, 20psi and you wont look back.

Those cv adapters look super user friendly. I like em. How are you guys making your front mounts, thats now among my big concerns with the swap. I know an r230 is overkill for my setup, good. Mas280 sourced his axles from Moser and said 12.3 inches each side or something like that, Thats SHORT.. using inners for both sides, so four cv shafts must die to make the custom ones. Also last thing, Tim I see you running the r180 mustache bar, Im wondering if the diff will still clear with the setback position of the r200 bar??? Could always turn it around to clear everything I guess, since CVs dont need to be as straight as a ujoint does....

I dont think so, that a great photo. Put an intercooler in the front and ill say its mine, and that it has 700hp ok Whats going on with the motorswap aux? I want to be the first to run or be ran by your rotary or otherwise powered monster, Im dying to see some power come out of that nice car. You could be my next non tech story, or I could be yours Gauntlet tossed....

zcarsmakemyheadhurt will definitely be able to hook you up. Im of the opinion from seeing proof in the form of real life that any L28 engine can be turboed, Ive already seen dynoed 9-1cr flattop engines make 260hp on stock turbo efi and injectors, of course more tuning is involved but it will run and run hard and thus, any L28 can take a good shot of the jiggity juice. Turbo and juice, now youre talking, with an auto, OH BOY. Do it already.

I guess I lucked out, my hatch weatherstrip is toast, and I still dont get fumes. I run a 3" straight pipe exh with a straight thru muffler with no tip, and my driver side tailight is darker than my passenger side And NO stink...must be the boost. KNowing my luck, when I replace it Im going to get the stinks. My v8z had me stanky everybody who got in the car, girls and guys said the same thing when they got in "smells like gas"

Took me a while to get the hang of it too. I used to have to do a cold adjustment, then warm up the car and adjust it again. After your third or so try, you should have that sucker humming, and not rattling.

Mine is from a 944, and its just plain sick. I dont think it matters what year. Ive run 80psi at the rail on this pump , and it didnt stutter under load. I didnt run that much pressure on purpose. When I installed an adjustable FPR, I set it too high because it was set at 0 or like 5psi to start with and I just gave it too many turns. I drove it up the block and back, popped the hood and saw my fp guage going nuts, and dropped pressure down to stock levels. I did give it a quick stab, how else do you test your new fpr? First thing I did with the T setup was ditch the stock pump and hotwire the 944 pump with the 12v relay trick. I agree, first thing that should go is that stock pump.

I dont know about the diffuser, but in the meanwhile, you could always roll both windows down, that helps.

Me too. Great pump. Bolts right in.

What an idiot. He sounds like he put Hoover Chans and JeffPs stats together and combined them. 300zxtt maf conversion with electromotive efi, gimmie a break. Twin hybrid turbos? 86 lsd? He has done his reading thats for sure, but thats about it. Wheres it from, let get him!

I asked this question long ago hoping I too had found the secret trick in saving some money and getting fat rotors and brakes. What I was told by the two suspension and brake gurus on this site is that an even larger spacer is needed if you use the z31hub. Its easy enough to seperate hub from rotor and bolt the spacer up, and its a proven and safe design.

Whoop there it is. Thats huge. DO IT.

with a 350 to 383 yes thats the combo. the firebird i was in started with a 400 poncho, and was destroked to either 383 or the 377. Im not sure if that combo is 350 crank in a 400 with long rods or what, but it was fast...

I once had a guy laugh at me while I was changing my oil. He came up in a shiny new integra (was a while back) And I asked him "whats so funny?" He told me I should get a new car like his, because he doesnt have to change the oil or do any tuneups on it for 100,000 miles!!!! People really can be that dumb...

You really have to know what your plans are for the car. If you are truly satisfied with where you are at now, I would say dont do anything port wise. I would have the valve seals done and get the head cleaned up, and nothing else. You will then have avoided another trap... While I port, Ill get valves, while I get valves, now head flows, how about a cam??? Well then Ill need lash pads, well maybe now that I can rev some nice new rocker arms...

if its a big block, its too small, I would go with at least 454. if its a small block, Ive been in a 400 destroke to 383 and it was crazy, in a 1st gen firebird...

you could always get one of those exhaust cutoff things they sell at summit and jegs that uses choke cable to uncork the exhaust at will. Im thinking about using one in the future-I love turbo noises..

That strut bar is hot. Whats keeping you from raising the boost?

If you really and truly have 2500 to spend on wheels and tires alone, you have way more options than those wheels, which are HURT in my opinion, that funky G and the spokes are KILLING me! No offense. Honestly, You can buy almost any set of wheels you want and you want some knockoffs? Well, none of us can stop you from getting those if you want them, but you do have way more choices than a lot of us here, that is what I am trying to say here. If I had 2500 to spend on rims, oh man, you dont even know

I would go aluminum all the way over the brass unit. Brass is a little more tolerable of straight water mixes and corrosion, but if you take care of a good aluminum radiator, youll notice the difference. Ive found that a overheating problem I had a while back was caused by too much anti freeze. I live in California and it doesnt get cold enough out here to freeze water, so I use about 85/15 water to af. Works great when its hot outside too, temp stays left of the middle of guage all the time, except in stop and go, where it gets a little hotter. If i were to do anything to the cooling system, it would be to add more powerful fans and possibly do a aluminum radiator. Hey you could always try a V mount!