fl327

youre hearing the pipes charge up, thats good.

Thats an awesome time, bad 60 or not. I say go dr's and run an 11 with afm, PLEASE!!! Either way, good job

s e a r c h

I know im probably dreaming, but does that engine bolt into a z? Im wondering, auction said he got it out of a z, maybe it still has the mount setup? now thats a scarab configuration!!! what are you plans for it, stick in the zx with efi or put it in a carbed year z?

I did the z31 stuff a year ago, and yes I will admit to it, I pulled the stuff off real quick to diagnose something really dumb, and re installed my afm system. I have swapped back and forth since then and havent noticed anything. Ive even swapped it at the track to see if it did anything, and nope, NoThing. Not a bad thing, but not enough to get me to keep the system on there----but in light of what im learning about the innards of that box, I am starting to lean the other way! Ive also set other cars up with this system and didnt make much difference on their cars either. Now that I have a good space to work on this kinda stuff, I am going to, why not right? Zme-dont take any of this personal, and I hope no one else does, Ive learned a bunch of stuff here and I would like this to stay as much away from a shouting match as possible, and yes I know---I can be a hothead at times. I take nothing here personal, I learn like this the best, dont ask me why, but I do. FYI- I dont take any of this stuff personal, and I actually get a kick out of the responses. If we were speaking face to face this would be different, since connotation and emotion are very hard to express on the internet. If it were possible to view my facial expression, youd see im laughing. Is a writeup even possible????

So yo, did you run eccs and try the same things? Anyways, yes I will admit, I do like how you can manipulate the z31 setup to a higher degree and yes, by the arguements posted I can see that you can get a lot more out of it with the piggy backing, prom, and of course the bypass pipe, which is my favorite one. I dont think you were using turbo efi were you ???? Yo, I thought you were running L jetronic before the z31 swap----thats a huge difference without a doubt. Lean may be better for all out hp, but I cant see how you can see its safer for a preset oem ecu to lean you out on boost, especially when you turn up the boost a whole bunch, thats not clear to me. Anyways I dont mean to tell people they shouldnt do this swap or its not worthwhile, but at the same time, what I am trying to say to those who want to go for the swap because their cars dont run right to them is that the z31 setup is not the cure for a poor running car- fixing a poor running car is the solution and the only right way to proceed. I get an average of 3mpg over the factory advertised mpg, and I do it at speeds of 80-90mph every day, hows that for drivability??? I personally think drivability is good with the turbo setup when its functioning correctly, eccs I do mean, and if you cant get your car to run right stock---how can you get it to run right modified??? I drive my car in any weather, any day and any time. Im known to take the car on 500 mile trips at the drop of a hat with no tools, I dont think the drivability argument is valid. I like how my car runs with my current stuff, but yes I will admit, the car did roar just that much harder through a maf, Happy now I like the z31 setup when used to boost power through the means that Bernard and Sleeper have done, thats good stuff, I dont agree that it has any edge on the eccs turbo zxt stuff if left stock, i just dont see it, as I have ran z31 stuff before, and I have run it at the track and swapped back to the eccs between runs and saw no difference, I dont say these things because I imagine them, this is my experience with it. By itself, I dont think its an upgrade at all, with mods like Bernard and SLeeper, I cant help but say yes, its a great thing they have accomplished in their resepective garages. Im not deadset into the notion that a z31 setup isnt worth it entirely, its only if you think you can bolt it up and get it run and rule the world, it doesnt work that way. I do love the z31 with the jwt type hacking and if i see someone run a s-afc with it, I would love to see what comes of that. Yo, I dont mean that in a sarcastic way at all, please post when you set that up, I am interested in seeing one of those boxes running with z31, if the outcome is good, you just might see me come back with the z31 setup, because when things like that are done is the only time it appeals to me as a performance upgrade. Anyways people are going to do what they want regardless of what I say, I would just hope that they look at all sides of the arguement. I have reiterate that I dont believe that the z31 setup does very much if anything different when left stock, once again its from experience from my own car. I am just as adamant in my beliefs as you are yours, and Im ready to see what else the z31 setup can do. Im not going to say its not interesting what can be done with it, but stock-I dont think its worth the work and Ill stand by it. Modified chipped what have you, of course its going to make mroe power, cmon now. Going back to original post, what is up with the writeup on how to z31 your z??? My way was way too simple I

I would like to see the curves as well, I dont think they would be too different, if it all. 27mpg is pretty good, I average 24mpg and drive 500 miles a week average with most of those miles at 8hg doing 90 on the freeway, my 2+2 averages 22.1 on 87 octane and its in upper 20s with 91, stock. It may have cost you 100.00, I dont think it would apply to everyone.

You may have improved your times, but wouldnt adding more boost and using a hybrid turbo result in the same times anyway????? You were running l jetronic with a knock box and fmu setup right? Of course your a/f and hp was going to increase, you advanced timing on a z31 setup and ran more boost and took it to a dyno, thats a no-brainer that you werre going to get more ideal ratios. Im still not convinced its any better in stock form than the afm setup. They both max out at the same hp on stock injectors. We have swapped setups in between rounds at the track and showed no difference. Sean-yes the AFM is big. It would be worthwhile to get the car up and running with the z31 setup and it would be fun as well. Bottom line to me is simply changing over to a maf isnt going to give you very much, if any more power, unless you go Jwt or get inside the box and alter parameters, then I like it alot.

I dont think doing the z31 efi setup is an upgrade by itself. If you run it with stock injectors and whatnot, your limitations on hp are still going to be the injectors. Hp and 1/4 times are identical between the two setups with the stock cc injectors ( a commonality between the two). Having ran the setup for a little while, I do know that with the maf sensor in place of the afm, the car does seem to move along just a little quicker than the afm, thats for sure. I ran into some drivability issues ( When I first put the car together I was not into fuel injection and completely unhip to turbochargers at all and immediately blamed the z31 for something really dumb) that were bugging me so bad I just put the setup back to stock and left it there a year ago. It does take very little to make it work since it is so close to the s130t setup, but definitely not plug and play. Im not saying I wouldnt do it again, but I dont think I would run any better unless I could get in there (ecu) and switch some things around and tune the sucker, along with bigger injectors . Now, breaking the code and getting it to work with bigger injectors is another thing, now your talkin! Sleeper did get the 370cc injectors to work well with his setup and is making great power with it, but wouldnt the bypass pipe setup work as well with the afm setup? Im not trying to take anything away from Sleeper, the bypass pipe is an awesome concept is working well in practice. What I am saying is that if all you want to run a z31 setup for is to say you have a maf and a stock ecu from another car, it may not be the best reason to do it. I would be into helping with a writeup, I did the swap an entirely different way from what Sleeper described ( I do think that is the right way though, utilizing the full z31 system). I simply cut off the plug to the afm and soldered in the plug to the maf, after rewiring one of the pins to chassis ground and wiring up the burn off. I did some work in the motherboard as well, but the way sleeper did his, you wouldnt have to do anything like that, since he found a way to give the ecu the right signals, where I bypassed quite a few of them. Anyways the car did run well, and did idle better than I could ever get it to currently with the afm system.

a 10 to 12 is going out to the fender anyway isnt it, or is it that you want 10-12 inches of rim on all four???

rears will take more positive offset than fronts. right now i run +30 wheels on the rears with 16x7.5, it clears the stock strut by two fingers or so, if you use coils you can get more positive offset in there.

you should still have 5psi or so left in your setup, go for the gold before swapping out, thats what i would suggest and thats what I would do in your situation. I dont know about a saab intercooler though.

check voltage, may not be getting enough to stay up at 5psi underload. thats easiest fix.

are you running a relay to the fuel pump? I would verify voltage before going into the carb or anything like that. I run a relay to the fuel pump-14.4 avg voltage. Most fuel pump outputs are rated when 14v applied to them. You have the points adjusted right right? what kind of carb are you running? see what kind of voltage you are getting to the pump, fuel pressure sounds really low for v8, should be 5 psi or so for a relatively stock v8.

Yeah, like that would ever happen. Just kidding-ish.

does anyone know for sure that the 300zx rotor and hub assembly will allow for a +30 or so offset wheel to mount in the front??? is the amount the hub sits out different from 4-5 lug years?

I would put the jets right in the middle of each runner on manifold, thats for the big shots. For a smaller shot I would weld a nut to my intake piping off the tb and stick a jet or two there right before the throttle body.

I think its the shock that breaks things in the rear more than torque. With an auto you can run 400lbs and put it down, but nothing is forever. Its not rocket science that a v8 turbo is going to be faster than a 2.8, and it better be. A really good handling v8z is a work of art, the product of a lot of well thought planning and better execution, a lot of variables change when the pushrod goes in. A really good handling turbov8z would be awesome, if it existed

In three months Im LEGAL???? OH BOY.

I went to the big summit store in Reno last time I was there, oh my lord. Its heaven, heaven.

75-76 will come close to bolt in, but not truly, since tank is bigger and baffled at the bottom. return line is bigger than 240z i think if you can get the strap that holds a 75 in the car it will be bolt in, since the filler neck is in the same position. i wouldnt use tpi on a 302 chevy, tpi would limit you to like 4500 usuable rpm, not good for racing. the carb would let you rev to the sky,if you have the cam carb and heads suitable to such.

i like the weber, but they are hard to find, thus expensive. 60mm is not so expensive, but when getting them factor 75 extra for a spacer. changing the linkage isnt hard at all. Id say 60mm from a later model stanza or 240sx would be the ticket for a standalone, since they use a true variable volt to throttle position tps vs. the early and zx two prong on and off switch style tps.

grand national engine is very nice. Im contemplating building one up as my next project, 20 inch wheels, g machine suspension, big brakes, big boost, and me.

its really hard to find modern rims with a real deep dish, and hondas rule the aftermarket rims, sharing it with the suv crowd, making for flush face rims except if you go 22"! one great oem wheel if you can find it and they are even rare factory, are the starion wheels, 16x8 front 16x9 rear, five lug with a great dish on them. more often found are 16x7 and 16x8 and they have offsets that would work on a z, 0 offset rear 17 front, kinda close up front, but they would work with a five lug conversion, or an adapter. starion wheels go cheap, but heres a funny one----they may go for 400, ive bought starions at the auction for 175, 235 out the door!!! may be worth your while to grab one at the auction, turbo cars dont get bid up that much because many times, they were abandoned due to headgasket, turbo failure, or both. this is especially true when the car looks good.... btw: youre not alone in this. me, im not into adapters at all, i drive stupid enough without worrying about a wheel falling off, even though ross c makes some kick butt adapters for z cars. right now im running a nice set of wheels from a silvia, but you know what? they are coming off too, and im going to sell them off, im running adapters on these wheels, and thats all i think about when i drive. I cant have that anymore, so off they come. The proceeds of these will go to a nice set of 16 inch wheels that have some dish on them but they bolt straight on.

83zxt had all kinds of funny configurations going on with them, as Nissan was emptying backstock on these cars getting ready for the switchover to vg series. My 83zxt donor had a P90 head on it, and was the typical mechanical lifter type. My 83zxt driver right now has a p90a with hla's on it. I kinda like the p90a, havent had to pop valve cover off yet, anyone out there running a lot of boost on one? I kinda like the idea of running a nice quiet hla head.