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to get either one right you either need wb or dyno time, a lot of dyno time for the afc since you would have to tune for cruise and vac, vs. eic which you would dyno for boost pretty much strictly. Brad are you setting up a Ka24et??? So am I!!!!! Afc would be good for those cars, since you could probably get a bolt in version with a wiring harness that would simply plug in, and would be a godo way to get a turbo setup running on one. We are probably going sds with ours, my buddy is trying to find dish KA pistons, any luck with that?

he didnt have fjo, buddy was running the new Haltec E6X. I didnt get to see it since I had to leave early, I did get to see him tune for idle and vac cruising. I expect around 340rwhp, he previously dynoed 260hp 290ft@10psi on small hybrid with stock fuel system, on a 8.9-1cr L28et. With the haltec he went with 370cc inj and hes currently tuning for 14psi, and hes pretty diligent so 340 and maybe 350 wheels out of his setup.

I just like the blue screen.

no, i forgot which part of stock efi did that, the 5 second priming thing and all. adding a relay wont do that. Im not sure if you will run bettter, but it cant make you run worse

the good part about the eic that i like so much is that when you are out of boost or its preset activation point, car will drive perfectly normal. its cheap when you consider all the extras of an sds system, like 6 huge injectors, sensors, setting it up, frustration, and dyno tuning sessions or buying a very expensive wb o2 to do it yourself. you can dyno that eic in an hour with one knob, its starting to look good..... Super afc would be nice too, seems like a tie from my perspective.

got cut off before I could finish next response, so short version consistent minimum of 12v is important because fuel pump is rated at its gph lph whatever at 12v and some 13.5v, stock fuel pumps are run much less than that in general because they arent running well under max output under the hood as well, and dont need to. when you run boost and f--- with things, you need more fuel, and thats one way to make sure one part of your fuel system is running at its peak potential. thats why.

You can get the relay at autozone or radio shack, I use Bosch only for important relays like this because I like Bosch. If you type in fuel pump hotwire, or fuel pump relay on google.com, there will be 1000000000 different sites that show you the same way to hotwire the fuel pump, from Buicks to Dsms... it does make a difference.

Was just hanging out with my buddy dynoing turbo 240z, and saw this post jump back up. The modem part would be awesome, being able to send your last fuel/ign map back out to a tuner shop and having corrected data sent back and programmed into your ecu between runs, thats hardcore I think.

drop the rear sway bar or use a crowsfoot 14mm. only one wrench needed if original d bolts. buck up.

what did they do for the cvs? mounting it isnt much of an issue for me, its the cv and the mustache bar . any where I could see it online?

you pay shipping, and ill send you a pair, easy as that.

I just had to pass on a free 240sx diff too!!!!!! american 240sx cars had a rare vlsd, j spec cars have a really sharp hitting lsd in them, or from what ive seen. If you happen to be walking around an importers clips and parts and see a diff that looks like its been opened before, odds are it has a clutch pack, probably aftermarket if its been opened-from reading the JDM clips-it seems that every fast car has a equally modded braking and suspension setup, its very systematic and has been a consistent trend. This is what ive noticed about front clips from Jspec cars. we just put a 4.88 clutch lsd r200 into a 240sx from a silvia----DANG!!!! its a full two way, it makes ratcheting sounds in u turns, and locks really really really good. Doing the full rear suspension is about the only way I can see that swap happening to me. I thought about mounting the diff to be kinda easy, but there are numerous differences that make this swap pretty hard. 1. CVs are two long and they have splines on both ends, and a funky bolt pattern that differs even from American to JDM. very strong if you could make it work though, if you want some silvia hubs to try it, you can have them I have a ton of em. 2. Mustache bar holes arent even close, they have an entirely different isolation system where the suspension has bushings and the only bushing ican see for the diff is the coupler in the driveshaft. If you could make one of these work it would hold up for a long long time, the japanese diffs use stronger cv joints with a better bolting scheme on the ends, and I usually get the diffs for under 300.00USD. Its just too complicated for me I guess....

i ran stock boost (read 7psi on autometer guage), no ic, stock dp, 3"dp and 60mm tb to 14.9@90 with 60fts in the 2.3 range at best on bald 215/60/15H BIG O TIRES. This is 75 280z. I ran the 14.9 my second try out there, after warping my flywheel on my first try (throttle stuck open, and powershifted into fifth to lug the car down, clutch wouldnt grab for anything after that.) I got the 14.9 with the warped flywheel, shifting into third at 4500. With traction and a clutch that grabbed I could see low 14 with 7psi, not bad at all, comparatively speaking, when my car stock was 17.1 in the quarter according to car and driver. Right now car runs high 13, low 14, with a minimal amount of mods to it, while driving it every day all day. I am not in a rush to get much more power out of it before I prep suspension/brakes and nice wheels with good rubber, right now I hate to admit it, but this squatty suspension gets real scary when the driveline in your car can go 60-100 stupid fast and maintain triple digits with the slightest of ease, but NOT be able to come down from it very fast, and almost go airborn off every bump...NOT GOOD. Ive basically stopped trying to make more power until I get the SPORTS CAR handling and braking my v8 setup used to have. I would do a search, great things are possible from the turbo setup, tahts for sure.

the 20v might scream, but thats all it does. 4age screams too, not too quick though, had an 85 mr2, and I couldnt get that thing to out run anything... but I was liking being able to powershift at 7500-you know I waited until fuel cut to do so! 200hp is streetable limit for na, and you would get about 2000 rpm of powerband.

i think safe boost limit is 14psi on those t25 stock nissan turbos, they have a ceramic compressor blade that will break up higher than that, but people still boost higher than 14psi im sure.

at the track, s13 cars with mbc and exhaust with boost turned up were averaging 13.5 with crappy launches. this was also done with the fender mount intercooler. my buddies with a built sr20, t51r hks turbo, apexi ecu and jun cams ran 118mph, but he redlighted twice

are those weds bavarias (rims)? looking good!

svo 2.3t cars are going head to head with 5.0 ho stangs, and they have the same quarter mile time stock.

Thats what im scared of. How much power or how hard were you beating the car when you blew that rear axle out? Im not planning on beating the car too much, mostly commuting at high freeway speeds. Im pretty sure they are in good shape on this car and plan to keep it that way by not abusing it...too much. 275 is cheap as heck, dude I got it from bought it for 500, but put many a thousand in it only to blow the engine, or think he did. I think he did just because hes a pretty smart guy. I figure the car has a good resale, so most likely I will be doing the transaction in a month or so, have to get this dang zx outta here!!

I dont think Neons srt4s are girly at all, I was on the bay bridge and a wrx and srt4 sped past me getting their wangan on, and I sped up to catch them, the srt4 had a car or two on the the wrx with me in the middle. The wrx hit his limiter and he was out, which left me and the srt4 at 125mph or so, I got chicken and let off at 5200rpm in 5th gear, estimated 145 mph, and the Srt had to stand down, and I had to wash myself. The srt4 really has no muffler, and you can sure hear it when they are bombing down the freeway next to you at full boost!!!!!! How can a z be girly??? I think the 70-8 and some 79-83 z cars look downright GANGSTER.

the car is in really good condition besides the knock, which I havent diagnosed yet. Engine bay is really clean and has a bunch of new parts, ive been checking these cars out ever since I saw his. Hey sparky-you do that too? Everytime I see a 323 hatch on the street I check it out, and its never the GTX. The guy I would be buying the car from is pretty cool, he just has like seven cars he messes with at the same time and hasnt had the time to work on the gtx, I guess he got fed up with the car a little bit and its been gathering dust. Funny thing about this guy is that all his cars are RED, and have big aftermarket rims on them!!!! Anyways if its "only" the engine and the trans and differentials sound and work well, I will probably pick it up from him- I would probably rebuild it, keep the 9-1 pistons and use a 2mm steel headgasket or so to lower cr to 8 somethingish.

I think early 75 is lightest for just this reason alone basically. My 75 (11/ 74) has no kind of door bracing in it whatsoever. Dont know how much mine weighs, but it does ride good. I always thought the Ls1 was only marginally lighter than a cast sbc because the bottom end has so much beef down there, six bolt mains, huge everything and what not???

I may be picking one of these pretty rare Mazda cars. For those who dont know about these, its a pretty rare model, ony 1400 ever came to the us, 5000 produced worldwide. It was to homologate their rally car GTX. Basically its a hatchback 323 with a 1600cc DOHC4 turbocharged (miata engine with lower cr and a t25) AWD five speed, loaded with options and pretty hard to find. It has the ability to send power 25 percent to each wheel, which I think is pretty nuts. My buddy has one and wants to sell it, heres tale of the tape 118k HKS ssqv stock turbo (will come with a thunderbird t3 and adapter plus jdm downpipe) Cusco strut bars earls ss lines some kind of coilover suspension turbo timer and greddy boost guage rest of car is generally good condition, straight no dings or dents, RED. May be able to coerce him into giving up the racing hart c5 17s that are currently on it! The downside is: He put miata pistons in the engine 9-1cr and thinks hes spun a bearing. after diagnosis, it may have to come out in order to make the car whole again. He wants under 2k, and the only other examples of the car ive seen are at least 5k range, and I barely ever see these cars for sale, period. Im not scared to pull the engine and rebuild it at my uncles shop, just wondering if you guys have any experience with these cars, I did a search around the internet and couldnt find anything domestic really about these cars. IF i end up grabbing it, I would basically bring it back up to good running condition, swap out turbos and put a bigger intercooler on it, and turn boost up a hair Dont want to go too far with it, want a nice and tight all season daily driver. Whatcha think?????

arp headstuds with steel headgasket thickness and make of your choice. juicy juice and race gas hmmmmmmm

I grounded efi harness to manifold, then ran a loop to the block and again on the manifold, the ground on the block goes over to the battery -, I dont like grounding to alum either.