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Not really. True-you are taking more of a risk running the higher cr with stock efi, but it can be done with a bone stock efi setup if you pay great attention to tuning, and dont try to go RAMBO and turn up the boost right away. Initial timing may have to backed off a bit, 18btdc being what was run. Stock SIZED injectors are used-----BUT, they were good injectors, from RC or whereabouts (soon to be in MY car)=this is extremely important in any boost application, that the injectors are not a NAPA or AUTOZONE type injector- if you compare spray patterns, the NAPA/ZONE ones often dont compare, and its known if you order for turbo, the goober behind the counter may try to sneak you a NA one thinking it will be ok. Not good. Quality parts and a lot of NISSAN sensors and a over achieving efi setup (best ive seen swapwise) are used, and dyno time as well-Last time I saw the guy he pulled the dyno slips out of his glove box!!! Does a Walbro fuel pump and stock 240z tank count as stock efi? Of course, it is hotwired to a relay. He used excellent parts and did his homework thats forsure, but he doesnt have any magic wands or fairy dust to achieve this. No rising rate fpr, stock regulator was used. No timing retard device either, but MSD 6al was used, and its not a bad idea to boost ignition in any forced induction application-thats a given. FUel? Air? the guy ran 13.2 with 16psi of t3 through a starion intercooler!! TUNING Ok fine, I think he told me he was detonating big time on top end with it-which stopped when he went bigger on the IC and TURBO-he runs times close to his t3 times with 10psi instead of 16. Of course he is limited as to how fast he can go, and is installing Haltec as we speak to bury into the 12s and better. Results like this, of course cannot be guaranteed to match these, but with tuning and patience, I cant see why not. 8.5cr is perfect for turbo charging I think, really healthy lowend to replace what a oversized turbo makes up for on mid and top end, just makes sense to me. Hondas run 10-1cr and they turbocharge all the livelong day, yeah I think they suck, but it tells me its possible. It really isnt much harder than setting up the stock turbo motor for good hp numbers, I think the higher cr makes it easier to get the good numbers, and it will run just as good as the stock one does as long as you tune with patience. Best believe, next engine that goes in my car will have a cr of at least 8, if there ever is a next engine, sucker takes a kicking and keeps on kickin it like Bruce, watch when he gets LOOSE..

Marcus, which four puck did you pick up, turbo or NA? I just got my Spec clutch in the mail,Turbo stage two with kevlar friction material rated for 450lbs baby-240mm flywheel, I drive on street alot and didnt want a puck clutch for now, hopefully this one holds up-my current clutch cant take load very well after second gear. Im waiting for a 2+2 throwout hub and some other small parts to install this puppy. Ive been torturing a stock clutch with a centerforce pressure plate long enough!!!

im pretty sure you will need the turbo oil pump, and that long spindle thing that goes to the bottom of distributor shaft, NA dist has a plastic gear thing on the bottom, turbo one doesnt. that should run good for you once you get it dialed in. Im too cheap to buy aftermarket pistons, ive been messing with chevys for a long time and when I see 100 slugs I get uncomfortable.

It would be an awesome setup, my good friend runs 8.9 cr- flattop f54 with 030 shaved p90 for 8.9 cr. 18btdc on stock 83zxt efi and 57trim hybrid turbo, dynoed 260hp@10psi and almost 300ft. Lag is non existant, guy gets full boost by 2600. He drives the car hard and very often- whats the point if you dont??? Stock headgasket. I have seen this with my own eyes and been in the car driven hard, not only does it survive-it kicks @55. You do have to do a lot more tuning, if you were going to raise the boost up you would have to do it anyway. Only reason I didnt go this route in the first place, but when I did the car I wasnt thinking about hp- I wanted an efi z that was kinda quick-I found out quick this car could be more than quick, but I did something right and engine has taken 18psi with no intercooler on a fluke and bearly even sneezed at it.

ive experimented with almost every combo of ecu and afm there is for turbo cars, all started up and went just fine, lots of spares, heck yeah.

I love it when it does that. Ive lost too many races on top end, thats about to stop!!!

sr20det is no joke at all. my buddy ran 119mph in the 1/4 with sr20det with jun head and cams apexi ecu t51r hks turbo and manifold 4" exhaust 10psi gtr fmic and almost no clue how to tune it. 240sx has to weigh 2800lbs. thats stupid fast.

I think that hp is tapering off after 5500 because of the ignition/fuel curve, not the cam or stock head limit. Peak hp and there, but what I can see as common in the dynos ive seen is that no matter how much power you can make at peak from the oem efi setups, the curve just isnt right. Being that the curve isnt adjustable without some serious know how, theres not much you can do without going to jwt or going with a full standalone to fix that- and if you made 150 or 350hp-hp will always taper off around 5500.

none, its esy enough to do. go to a jy and pick up a set, and bolt them in, nothing much more than that.

Im only doing big rears partially because im pretty ghetto anyways, my front tires and wheels look cool, Hayashi 15x7 mesh. I dont want to buy four tires, just two please, big uns

I would use them, but I converted to 240z style and like that the best. I had a crx with a broken turn signal, and I pulled the other one out to make it even. For giggles I tried it on my 75- boom preston bam... A longer screw here and washer there, and they will nearly snap right in and look kinda cool on a 280z, plus clear turn signals are cheaper for hondas. splice the wire harness in, and there you have it!!!! a custom mesh grill designed around these turn signals would kick butt I think.

Doug-thanx, thats good to know! 25psi at 3200 you say, oh shoot I think im in trouble Im going to use ex wg hopefully I can hold a steady boost that way, with a 3" dp. Yo-thanks for clearing that up, this is my first turbo car that I am swapping out to a big turbo. I am still kind of unfamiliar with stuff like wheel and what not, I will measuer exducer and see what I really have going on in there. I do know the wheel in the turbo is almost twice as big as a stock datsun sized exhaust wheel, and the compressor side-NO COMP. I think stock cam is good for around 6500rpm and close to 350rwhp in a turbo application-not the best cam for it but it will work, I set mine up 2 degrees retarded and 24 btdc will pull to 6500 fast. In the future I want at least 8.2 cr, ( stock bottom end, pistons with arp and shaved, ported and shimmed p90) and a turbo grind. 7.4-1 makes for a somewhat lazy engine to me, ever since I drove a N42 turbo car everytime I get into driving mine I can imagine how much harder it would hit with a cr increase. Jersey-the 50 trim will work great. I would have went with a smaller hybrid if I hadnt gotten my turbo parts for a labor trade, much easier to install as well. Since I have the turbo- well you know how we do I may have a new bolt in 370cc injector swap and a means to keep it lean as well, Ill keep you posted. May not be ideal a/f and a bit rich on top end, but I think I can tune the t4ebb setup with an afm for 300rwhp ( my goal is a modest 280hp for my 280z!, 280 from the 280, get it?), and go kick some import/domestec @55 This is one of those re-occuring threads that I like to read and learn from, as well as share input, thanx.

I have Initial D on DVD, and it has both versions, I have previously only seen the subtitles, and watch the english version so I can see the action better. Do you guys play the arcade version as well? Last semester I was a big fan of it and played it every school break almost a 50.00 a week habit. Now that I have a garage, I spend more time there so no more video games. The wheels are killer, its just my tire selection that kinda sucks

I like the full t04e better than the hybrid. I dont want the turbo spooling like the stock one, I would hope that the turbo hits a bit later when I finally do swap it out. Wondering Doug. You had to port your exhaust manifold just to aid with spike issues? You are running an internal wastegate though right? Im going to a tial ex wg , plumbed into a motorcycle muffler pointed out after the drivers side front tire!!!!! Hopefully I can get fire to shoot out of it. When does boost hit with your t04e Doug? I am going to use a t04e 60-1 with a .58a/r with a stage 3 wheel, ball bearing. I am hoping boost to hit around 3500-7k rpm, I am hoping to sacrifice all bottom end torque for mid and top end. I have seen great results from a 57 trim t04b/t3, and it is a bolt on upgrade.

Love it when you stomp an expensive car hard, and get the parts you wanted from the junkyard? I did! Thanks Davyz and Icice9 for showing me the spots. Went to a jy today and they had a section of just various rims, aftermarket and oem with tires removed, and wading throght this pile, I found a pair of 15x8.5 alloy star wheels with 0 offset dual drilled for fords and 4x4.5 lug spacing. Tried them on a 280z in their yard----WHATS MY NAME!!!!!!!! they fit up in the front and rear fine, these are going in the rear with some good meats on em, ill find fronts later-its the rears that I cant keep rubber on. Took em home and washed em a little, and the lips came out shiny!!!!! A little polshing will make them mirrors!!! I painted the star part dull aluminum for that ricer look im going for, and thurr I go! These ones may need flares some day, but im gonna run em a hanging out the sides for a while though. Heres the kicker, when I go to pay for these wheels, they tried to charge me 35 a wheel, me being me I got nuts and said "your man over there said they would be 40 total!" He said 50-and I paid the man and ran to my car!!!!! So I get in my car after packing the wheels up and head back home. On the way there a MK3 supra with a front mount intercooler and bov chasing me, we get to a light and he gets over a lane to start combat. I pretend not to look at him, drinking my bubble tea and staring straight ahead. Light goes and I let er rip, to show this sucker how the West was Won. I obliterated him out the gate, hit second hard and got some more on him and let off. When he came up the side I wouldnt look at him and kept playing it cool with the bubble tea-Yes, I have been watching INitial D and doing my best Tak imitation. Cant wait for this dumb clutch to get her finally so I finally go to town.

I thought about just welding the bracket from z31 to the z pedal, but decided to try and mount it first, went in good, so I bored the holes out to make it clean. Stock firewall hole lines up with the pedal almost perfectly, I had to file that up a little for better geometry,the cable is almost perfect length.

what kind of accesories and add ons do you run on the car that are not stock? electrical i mean. if the system isnt getting full voltage and is pretty old, chances are grounds are dirty and connectors as well, which means it is more dependant on having a good charging system in order to run right. sounds like battery is weak, since the alt will try to charge. may want to have battery checked out, most auto parts stores do this for free. i had numerous problems with my battery, and finally went to an optima dry cell battery, havent had an issue with it yet. I also had some chargine issues due to dirty fusible links

you have to use the same strikers from the car that the doors came from it takes a little work, but yes you can use them. ive seen it done. sidenote: 75 doors are identical to early 260, there is no impact bar in my doors, happy sidenote, I truly believe the early 75 280z (mine is 11/74) is the late 260 body with fuel injection.

ive yet to see a turbo transplant that doesnt run a little rich. 24btdc is indeed for 83 only, but it can be adjusted +- 3 degrees from factory spec, and a tad more when tuning for max performance. sidenote: my buddy ran 18btdc with 83efi and a flattop f54 shave p90 turbo engine with 8.9 cr, hybrid turbo and 10psi as a daily driver and didnt ping. Im not sure what the difference is with the settings, ive run 81-82 ecus on my car at 24btdc and it ran the same as my 83 ecu, with the slightest difference at idle only??? I set tps really tight, the milisecond it moves, its open, or is that closed? I made a transparent shield for it so I can see what its doing.

that car is pretty quick with the 83 drivetrain, it smoked my old 78z like nothing all the way from downtown to the sunset district, about 6miles. we raced almost every light, and that car smoked my stocker five out of five times, as well as trounced a civic and hung door to door with a turbo 2 with exhaust and a blow off. I beat the civic too in my stock 280z the 3.9s were destroying me out of the hole.

I once saw: "Dont ride my ass unless youre naked" it was pretty hot lady driving the car too.

my idle has always been kinda high and stinky. 800 start to 1100 sometimes, but it hasnt hurt mpg or power so i dont even think twice about it. idle is choppy at times and sounds like i have a lumpy cam. sooner or later I will attempt to lower idle, but im one of those guys that once that hood opens, you might as well take a nap because war has just begun.

turbo ex manifold turbo and dp(turbo has a rebuild stamp from Vargas diesel in hayward ca, felt ok but was dirty as heck, had to be somewhat recent, all bolts to the turbo and dp were very easy to pop off) 82zxt five speed ecu wiring harness complete and somewhat lableled. are pending. funny part was that I only went to the jy to get a 2+2 flywheel and a pair of 15x7 mesh wheels and hopefully some tires since I cant get tires to last back there and ran into my buddy, who wanted a p90 head. We go in and there is a complete zxt five sped??? we both came out with more than we expected, except there were no 15x7 mesh wheels on any datsun or toyota or mazda in the yard. engine has 220k on it, but when the head came off the pistons looked very good, and it spins extremely easily. plan is to put engine on a stand (ive never had an engine stand before, im kinda pumped about having a use for one) Plan is to use arp bolts everywhere i can on the bottom end and possibly forged 8.3-1 pistons, stock bore or a little bigger if it needs to be bored. steel headgasket and arp head bolts, my current head will go on it if it checks out after being t4ed on after some minor backyard porting and polishing, with new seals and small parts if needed. Im looking for 350hp on this one once its done with great response, near 7k power and the ability to easily swallow a small shot of the jiggity juice on top of 18psi. Im doing some part time work at an engine and tranny rebuild shop in hayward right now, im not sure of myself enough to touch the japanese engines yet (we are where a lot of shops farm out engine and tranny rebuilds) mostly rebuilding v8s and v6 ohv engines, and learning more about the japanese engines everytime i work, which is like two to three days a week and 15 hours tops. my boss even says that the L motor is one of the easiest import engines to rebuild, short of the 2tc and 3tc toyota four cylinders, which are ohv like a v8. Ive done one L motor before, and cant wait to do another one with some real stank up in it!!!! afshin-if you need anything just yell. anyone in fremont who can get there in time there is a t5 i left on the ground and threw the driveshaft in the passenger seat, heads up. I have a gut feeling it seized as the reason for the car being in the yard, since I could nto get it to shift, and the clutch hydraulics and clutch were in good shape.

compression levels are excellent, i dont think its the bottom end-those numbers are as high as my engine-and my engine is pretty fresh.

Im not sure if it will work on all early z cars, but it worked like a charm on my 75. I have always been using the z31 cable instead of linkage, but didnt like the way I hooked it up to the pedal-and it was jerky sometimes. Yesterday I got a z31 pedal and a few throttle quandrants and brackets. The pedal is almost a direct swap in! I unbolted the original pedal from my car, removed the spring and mounting bracket by pulling off the eclip, and put the 300zx pedal in its place. On the 75 pedal, I had to bore out the pivot holes a little bit to accept the bushings from the 300zx pedal, put the z31 spring in and put the eclip back on. Boom, pedal side is done. For the cable, I ran it to the tb linkage, hooked it up to the factory spot for it (using true Silvia 60mm throttle body, same as 240sx tb, but mines JDM 8) ) and used the adjustment bracket from z31 and found a spot to secure it down near the tb, and ran it back to the firewall and hooked it up the pedal----PERFECT LENGTH and FIT!!!! Much smoother operation than before. The pedal feels like its on the floor, but it is more responsive with less pedal effort, and it does give me the jerky sensation while cruising, very nice. Just thought it was worthwhile to share, since the z31 pedal has a bracket for throttle cable applications, it may be good to swap in with different engines that require changing to a throttle cable, or if you are strange like me and used a big tb without a spacer. Just sharing.