fl327

"move your big toe" that movie was a blast, ill be watching it again soon, i live a block away from the theater.

[ Who's ever seen an L6 powered 240Z go faster than a SBC powered Z anyway? It just doesn't happen. I'm calling Bravo Sierra. DAW Actually quite a few people seen me do it, and yes indeed, an L6T powered 280z at that too. Picture me rollin. The crowd at Sacramento got to see the impossible possible, and they saw it happen at the street lights too. There are no turbo charged v8s on this forum, except for the scarab turbo carb guy lurking somewhere. Most of the turbov8 questions post in the chev ford other forums anyway. Already done that old v8 stuff

Man, I tell everyone to do the ecu disconnect reconnect when they have a bug like this!!!!!!!!!!!. Good lord . It is true, a hotrodder will make things happen that math and physics says cant, why? The hotrodder will try it. Sometimes this will kick the hotrodder in the ass though, the door does swing both ways. Hey Alex- Im still looking into picking up a Haltec from you, Im in the midst of doing suspension, brakes, and a few things here and there before I get to the efi-even at 12psi, its starting to feel scary when boost hits. The starion guy I referred to you is still super interested, he lost your number so did I, please pm it to me. Factory efi can be tweaked a bit to make some power, but I dont think there is an arguement in the world that says a standalone isnt going to be faster when tuned-with similar turbo/engine setups, I would hope to think thats just logic. Cygnusx- factory ngk plug probably the best for your setup I think, Im ran them for a long time with no problem, I recently changed to a M3 plug with four electrodes, adn was running splitfires before that-both actually ran very well, but four electrodes is better than two. Lockjaw posted them and I went and got some, they are pretty expensive compared to an autolite or a ngk-but the last thing im worried about are my plugs not hitting through the mix-and thats worth it to me.

truck engine probably has cast head and block vs. alloy head Lt1 or alloy all Ls1. Vortec heads flow good, but truck motor probably has RV type cam, peaks power low and runs out of breath at 5000rpm or so. Thats an easy swap out. If the price is right, You should go for it I think, Cams for v8 are cheap. Truck motors are generally pretty tough, I would cam it for great midrange about 6000rpm red, light weight of the z car makes up for the low end easy. Do they make manifolds to convert those to carb? I would run the carb. You know, sometimes I do miss me a v8z

Hey carrman, we have the same car!!!! I have a 75 turbo as well. My car does the same thing!!!! Its not the regulator, or the injectors. Every morning I do this to start my car, turn the key on to ACC, and let the fuel pump run for a 10 count like 1 one thousand, 2 one thousand, 3 one thousand...blah. Then I only crank the car two seconds at a time, it usually starts 1st try, sometimes it takes more. It starts easier if I pump the pedal a little bit when I do it too. Mine idles like crap for the first minute, until the system gets to charge a little bit, then it steadies out----I have no idle control or emissions, and it always idles a little rough, especially on cold mornings, and a little rich---I believe its the Head Temp Sensor running you a little rich on that end, since mine doesnt have the air regulator or cold idle system whatever its called-ecu cant raise idle for me, but it will still throw out the extra fuel--if you hold rpm up to 900 or so it will be fine- it leans it out a bit, At least from my experience. If you do have the idle stuff on your manifold, I would check to see if its working right. How do you have your fuel pump wired? Are you running the stock modulator or the hotwire method? Before I get to driving and the alternator kicks on, it runs a little rough since the alternator hasnt reached its excite rpm. Once I do excite the alt-idle gets even smoother. I wouldnt worry so much, unless this is a new issue that has come up out of the blue. Mine does this and I have a very healthy functioning fpr, maybe I will switch it out and see if that makes a difference, but I dont think it will.

maybe we should leave it to all the supercharged and turbo v8 zcars to vote. Ive had both, and wont do the v8 again, just because Im addicted to BOOST, and an oath Ive made that if I go with a v8, its a big block or its no block.

Ok DAW, Ill take the stand here and tell you like this before the topic gets closed, hopefully it does. Ive taken down TWO V8Zs, one is from the forum (remains nameless), and the other one got it official-AT THE TREE (not a member of the board, but both were JTRs). And take this, in a turbo 280z, not a 240z!!!!!! And Yes the V8z cars were both 240z cars, ooooooooohhhhhhhh.............YEAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHH.... Dont do it, youll lose a lot of members, and a lot more prospective ones as well.

High fuel pressure doesnt make you run funny, Its not unusual to see me outrageously bump up the fuel pressure when I turn up the wick for boost. Currently I run 44 psi, since Ive heard from folks that an injector cc rating is measured at 43.5 psi, while stock the car runs about 36psi

I think the zg flares would clash with the aero kit. The aero kit is really smooth, and well, aero, a little squared off at points and such.. aero kit is usually painted body color, zg classic look is black or anthracite creating a bolder contrast with the rest of the body. I think the car would look weird with these two clashing looks, but maybe in a good way, its just a design clash to me. Regular bubble molded in flares would work better and exentuate the design of both IMO.

Puh-witty

In the end, its not what it cost, its what you get from it. I like the JDM engines, im just spoiled on L stuff, my clutch cost more than my donor car! Sorry just had to throw that in. You know, they do make an adaptor for GM trans to rotary somewhere out there in import land, t56 rotary 4.88 r200 lsd, do it.

They are getting scarcer, I think we have killed them all Even in the jys the 240sx and z31 are beginning to overtake the role of the 280z-x as the old reliable jy parts commodity. IF youre willing to make a cross country drive to pick up a 280zxt that will make it back to your place safe and sound, hit me up I got one for you, guaranteed solid.

are you still planning on coming down to sac raceway?

no, sideflow

I like 16 and 17 inch wheels due to wheel choice. im going to be setting my car up for drift, which mandates low profile on rears, so im going 16 front 17 rear, offset in the rear can be more positive,. but in the front ive seen a 225/50,15 fit in front of lowered 240 with no coilover, on 0 offset.

Im pretty stuck on forced induction, any car I work on a bunch thats in my name is going to have some kind of power adder dangit. Im pretty sure Im going to drift this z, so all out hp isnt as much of a goal as having a good suspension, so Im looking for 300hp, which is dumb easy if I can get a safc to work right on these cars. SDS aic is listed on the bottom of their webiste , their should be a little thumbnail you can click on, its short for sds Additional Injector Controller.

I figure a decent L rebuild should be about 1200 or so, thats still kinda cheap I think-L internal parts are expensive... Rebello charges about 3k for a rebuild, but they do it right. Im going to rebuild mine at my old work, my old boss just charges me rental storage and food to work on my stuff there sometimes, but not anytime soon, this 7.4 cr engine runs pretty hard. Would like to work with 8.3 or so cr with flattop f54, p90, and 2mm steel hg. Pull the head off, youll know whats going on instantly.

If you dont want to shell out for a nicer BOV, the eclipse one works, or a bosch unit that doesnt require a flange works well too as a recirculating unit. HKS SSQV is the best one I think for open atmosphere venting on a afm system, it vents fast and closes faster, I havent had a bad experience with it yet, and I drive my car 400miles a week. Intercoolers: any of these will do 300hp well 944 turbo ic looks like a good one Supra TT is an excellent unit, its small but 2.5 in and out, and its been run up to and probably more than 400rwhp from supra owners, so you know its at least decent. If I were to do it again, I would probably do this one over the NPR and the 944, it also takes less room away from the radiator to do its job- but my NPR looks nice and rice. NPR, good intercoolers, any of them, good fins and great looking end tanks. Easy ecu-JWT Injectors, none unless you go JWT or standalone. I wouldnt go with svo just because I dont like using old injectors, and I dont like cutting injectors. If you were going with the Jwt I would do 450sel injectors, 420cc or so, 300 is cakewalk with these, and MORE. If you can find them for 50 dollars and want to use them, thats your preference. For the couplers and plumbing, you will spend at least 125 for it if you do it right, with silicone hose connectors and good clamps.

pull the head off, if you can fix it by shaving the head a little and doing a head gasket, thats an easy fix. If its a piston cracked or rings, hey you were gonna trade it anyways right? I really dont think its a ring problem since motor is pretty fresh, Ive detonated a bunch and overheated pretty good a few times, and the L just grins and bears it basically IME. I have a pretty fresh motor, and it had 190k on it when I pulled it. I did rebuild it, but looking back on it, I didnt have to-sucker would probably be running with me hard to this day, but I did have it in pieces and it was easy at the time. Little 6 has gained my confidence and respect, and thats why Im thinking its probably a head gasket and or warpage. You are in it too far, and I dont think youre ready to handle an NA bottom ended turbo motor now-I think thats my next move.

They send me a little mailer catalog every now and again, thats where I saw it, I hate reading that catalog because I want almost everything, but I dont need any of it!

my turbo used to make a high pitched whine when I had a leak out of the dp flange, fixed that quick, because when the flapper would open up, it would make a sound like pinging. Pinging isnt as audible on these cars I dont think, big exhaust, a turbocharger, fans, whatever, makes it hard to hear. Sounds like a spray can shaking in your car, whenever I start getting into boost hard, gotta turn off the radio. When I had no Ic, the initial hit of the boost was a lot more dramatic, and with the leak it sounded great, without the leak, its all pressurizing sound only, which sounds awesome in the car with an intercooler, you can hear em fillin up with boost.

Oh yes, I wouldnt dare even think of that option without one, thats for sure. What ever happened to your 280z project? I thought being a dsm man, the turbo was a no brainer option for you, but a nice v8 with big exhaust does sound great. I can usually find the old version of the afc from people I know for around 100.00, and I would be into playing with one of those if its easily returned back to normal.

Sorry awd, I totally skipped over a few replies somehow. Thats pretty interesting, what stopped you from fully installing the s afc? sounds like you almost had it. That puts the evil idea in my head of just installing one on a 280z and boosting right off the bat. Im gonna read up on that little box, its interesting. My heater core doesnt work anyway I like how the rpm reads out on the blue screen. My buddy has a S afc mounted over his tach and a Blitz Sbc boost controller in the speedo place-it looks GRRREAT.