fl327

you can use the shaft from any z or straight six maxima, so its a bit easier to find.

either way, they both work great. i like the e12-80 type myself. four wires, six fires!!!

i swear they bolt right up, but i do believe hearing you need to drop the oil pump, and swap distributor shafts with a zx or z dizzy shaft.

I would think an extremely lowered car is prone to losing halfshafts I plan to do a cv swap once I find a 3.7 lsd diff, because I plan to keep the Squat alive!

If its the knock sensor, I said it first

I cant think of a dang thing man, I can see myself repeating things in posts and starting to throw some weird ones atcha

/Stupified maybe? I am. Im thinking distributor meaning CAS???usually is ok forever basically, wouldnt hurt to check out though. Ignition, Ignition,Hmmmm.... Something in the EFI thinks its running too lean.... CHTS-if its off, youd be black smoking out the tail pipe. Ignitor out-usually no start ECU failure-no start or no rpm after 2000 Try pulling knock sensor off????-Im sure you have? It gave me this issue till I pulled the plug on it. Maybe, I say maybe, Cap and rotor???? Im sure you checked it

do it.

CAS?? if so, that means distributor basically. Try swapping AFMs? Figure its cheaper than dist. stuck at 20 degrees, hmmmmm

good lord thats beautiful!!! any more photos of that sx rear suspension install?

Look in the Diesel Forum

Everytime I get a stumble or the car wont run right on WOT, I reset the ecu and reset a few minutes later. It usually runs normal afterwards. The only time it didnt run right afterwards is because I needed a new fuel filter. But I do the cleaning of efi connectors and reset the ecu before I go into any other alternatives, since It is free and easy to do.

That is why I dont recommend them for any street car, unless its like Terry Oxandale where he has no bushings. I went solid rear with new bushings in the mustache bar, and proceeded to crack the sucker in two, and rip the xmember, and shear driveshaft bolts in the process.

Yo is right, the HKS super sequential does not vent at idle, even at the loosest setting. RFL is LOUD

thats good to hear. Po Po's is some hos though.

I vent to atmosphere, oh yes I do. I think car runs better, or it runs the same but now goes WHOOSH Between shifts. The recirculating type takes all the joy out of it for me, all the glory. With the T3, Im back in boost right after I hit the gear, There is no kinda lag with this turbo and a vented BOV. Plus it makes that great sound. I do not encounter a stumble either, I run HKS SSQV, it opens and closes FAST, I dont even think the system realizes air loss since it opens and closes so quick, so surge either. WHOOSH.

You will have great traction with those 10" wheels though.

Dan, its the infamous 305 TPI right?

Sup Dog! need an engine stand myself

If thats where you work, why did you have your buddy try to fix your computer pervert.

Yes it definitely helps me a bunch, since I dread the idea of making that crank trigger magnet thing, I dont like em at all, so public, they look heat prone to me too. so the coils, is this a haltec product or do they specify a oem product that works? and for the sensors, do GM style ones work for these setups? This is the rest of the major mysteries about standalones. I would love to say good bye to my afm the good way! Thank You.

WOW, a six speed caddy. You are nuts. Still has cruise control? My buddys thought I was nuts for wanting to put six speed into a 96 Impala.

Ok, this may sound dumb, but when you decide to go waste fire, you Do have to run the cas wheel on the crank with the magnets right? In that case, I like the idea of swapping CAS from 300zx, and if that is all the major fab I have to do with it I like it! The haltec runs with GM map, air temp, water temp sensors right?