fl327

nobody?

Actually thought about it and changed my mind. If you can get one for a good price and good condition, by all means. Once you stab a cam and start playing with the car, the low gearing of the tranny coupled with an overdrive may be what the doctor ordered. I would get the 3.9 gear out and plop a 3.54 in there though, that combined with gearing that was designed to pull loads uphill should be gear enough for a nice semi radical street car. You know you could always do a toploader ZF transmissions are my second favorite American tranny,compared to my favorite trannies of all time, the Old School GM, Doug Nash, and Richmond trannies, namely the Rock Crusher, Doug Nash 4+1, Super T10, M20-21-22, and the retro Richmond6. I have a lot of faith in those trannies, I slammed my m21 behind a built 327 for years in my 72 240z, I blew a lot of parts and partially killed the 327, but the trans kept rockin. I would need something along the lines of these though, only v8s I can see in my future is 454BBC and bigger with one of the above trannies and a big 12 posi or a King Dana rear. Of course the way things are advancing in the SBC technology, Its a lot harder of a choice to make.

Try taking the car out on long trips on the freeway and back, this gives the ecu time to really take into account air flow and set the pace. Everytime I have reset the ecu, I take it a trip like this, and I have experienced the 4500 rpm brick wall right after resetting the ecu. It goes away after a while, and the car begins to get really fun. Maybe it could be that easy for you. Sidenote: I really dont believe that you are close to me at all. Im am in the San Francisco Bay Area, and I believe you are pretty far South? Im not sure, but whenever I see a place in California that I dont know the name of, I assume its near LA.

ARGH! Tis quite peculiar methinks. Well, all I did was type in Hybrid Turbo in the search box and only looked in Turbo/supercharger forum and I got 7 pages, relating to everything under the sun-All types of FMIC, HP, BOV, DYNO, Links almighty to member websites, and quite a few many more turbo discussions, regarding but in way limited to maintenance, troubleshooting, and quite a plethora more interesting pieces of information. Please use the search function, not to be mean or anything, but I myself have answered these queries similar to the ones to which you are currently inquiring so frequenty in the past months- I could partake in a hip hop like (rap) dance while singing (and rhyming the lyrics, something like: ("I have a t04e, NPR fmic, HKS ssqv bov, in my 75, two eighty zee") the methods used by myself and others while balancing a plate on my head standing on nails, and rhyme out the details that pertain to your specific inquiry. Sorry, too much coffee this morning, plus last night I hit a Homerun, and I just cant wait for tonite-FRIDAY night you know!!!!

got 7 pages for you of answers for you. http://hybridz.org/phpBB2/search.php?search_id=528845608&start=50

which truck ran the zf trans? I think the gearing would be way too low. The regular t5 holds up great in a z car, low weight i guess.

Jersey, I didnt mean to get you on the defensive. I didnt think you meant anything, but it is hard to read connotation on the Internet, this much I know. And yes, I wonder why none of the turbo Z owners near Socal area could come out to physically help you out with some of your tuning. I think there are a lot of them out in that direction, at least one could come to your aid and figure out the problem. If you want to drive out to the Bay Area, Id be able to get the car running a little better, if it doesnt require new parts. If you cant even hit a nice 6k, it sounds more like connections than anything.

Please use the search function in the Turbo/supercharger form type in Intercooler or t3/t4 turbo, Im sure you will get some great info

Sleeper is completely right, unless you do it yourself, it wont be the way you want it. A real shop probably wouldnt touch it, because it is not oem work, and some ase mechanics cannot do work like this. I would like to hope that more mechanics who are in it as a career were into high performance, but the truth is, A lot of Ase guys only do OEM repair, and limit themselves to it. The only thing I would do is rear end fluid at a lube place, and I will dang near lay down under my car from the side to make dang sure that I get it done, I even spray paint the plug to make sure they do it. Jersey, I dont think its right to say what you just did about Californians. I dont think you meant to generalize us Californians in that manner, but it didnt sound right to me as being neither fair nor true. Now if you can just head that comment to Southern Californian turbo zcar owners I could undersand (im joking here, hold the flames please). Im in NORTHERN California. I try to trouble shoot as good I can, but I really can only generalize since I cant physically see, touch, or hear the problems described. Again, Im not upset or anything, but I dont think its right to generalize us Californians like it sounds like you just did.

1970-the one that eludes me constantly, and probaly always will, and ironically enough, one of the only ones I would try to really restore and drive it stock. 1971 with sidedrafts (an entire two week relationship) 1972 with 327 and 4 speed(the money and widow maker) 1973 with early su's, E1280, and nothing else (superugly) 1974-would like to one in the future with a certain 2.6 liter engine with a pathfinder or frontier supercharged model rear axle and go for single digit ETs, I am NOT being a purist, but in NIRA they dont let stuff from other manufacterers slide too much, and I would be trailering this one) 1975 TURBO (hey at least Ive converted it 75% to early 260! 1978 Black Pearl (only factory black s30, when I sold it -I got more than I ever thought a car with terminal cancer than I could ever believe due to its paint code and exisiting options) 1983 zxTURBO with a rebuilt engine and new turbo(getting flatbedded to its new owner next week) 1984-9 not yet,and no time soon but who knows. Coming at you live in two weeks, have to go grab it after the owner gets the registration up to date: (drum roll) 1992-----------z32(300zx)!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 100k flat on the clock black on black leather(just like the 75!!!!) t-tops five speed stock down the mufflers and of course: TWIN mother(watch your mouth) TURBOS that have never been tampered with (oh boy)!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Clean title, good everything, straight body, garage kept and AC!!! Price: You dont even want to know, just figure around less than 1/3 of retail for a really dumb reason. It is going to be my commuter while I have the 75 torn down for boost and fuel upgrades and some driveline work. Plan to make it really cherry looking and do some very minor (cheap) upgrades, but I dont think I will own it very long. Im happier than a clam about this one and cant wait for those side by side photos of my two black TURBO z cars!!!!! I am so excited about this one I wake up earlier in the morning, Ok fine, I wake up in the AM now, and I have been knocking out other things with my 75 in pure anticipation. One turbo car almost paid for a twin turbo car, The madman in black is back jack!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I was just wondering If anyone has dynoed their car with a fairly strong setup, then went to a turbo header and dynoed? Im about to pick up a turbo header with T4 flange for the t04e install, just put down a deposit and just wondering what gains could be had. I know a downpipe can add up to 25hp, wondering what added gains a header would do? This header has the flange place in center vs. 5-6 on stock manifold. It isnt equal length, but it has large primaries on it. I am planning a nasty set of turbo and fuel upgrades to the car as soon as I move into my new house. I am going to set the car to run 1 bar daily driver on the T04e with a 3" 45 degree vband dp. I am hoping for 350rwhp and tune for 400+ on race gas. I have almost every part ready to rock and im wondering what kind of gains were had out of the turbo header vs. stock. Turbo is 60-1 to4e with a P trim turbine wheel in a .58 housing, ball bearing. Hopefully I get this setup in time for CMI!!!!!! oh yes, oh yes.

AIM is: carlospimpasoriho. Yahoo is: proZak

How tight did you bolt the spacers down, they may be vibrating a tad bit. 40 Series tires usually vibrate a lot due to the short sidewall, you can hear a lot more road and they will exagerate any loose or worn suspension components, especially in the front.

Where does the guy with the installer live? I would park in front of that guys house everyday until he finds the time to work on my car. He should have never let that car out without it running better than you describe, seeing that he seemingly has engineered this motor swap before. This is the biggest reason I do all the work on my own, I cannot afford a shops rate that will offer me a warranty. For the work that I cannot perform I take work only to ASE certified technicians, or a place like such that will gurantee the work. Does it feel like you are running into a brick wall over 4500? I just fixed this issue with my car, I had to splice in a new plug for my ecu, the middle one was loose. Fuel filter I do doubt this to be an issue as well, the one time my fuel filter really clogged on me it would only idle at 1500rpm and almost stall everywhere, it didnt hit the rev limiter, since it would not rev. Does it jerk around on acceleration up to 4500, or clean up to 4500? If it jerks, sounds like tps issue. There is a scientiic method involving a voltage meter and such, but I have personally found in my experience with zxt efi that if you unplug the TPS, and problem doesnt go away (clean the TPS and connector first), I will adjust it either way right after, if that doesnt work, I use one of my small army of TPS on it. 300zx, some stanza, some early maxima with vg engines, 200sx, and a few other tps's work fine on a zxt, which makes them easier to come by in Junkyards. Fuel Pump voltage I believe this to be very unlikely as the cause You said you checked timing so its probably fine. Could be plug to AFM, ECU, TPS, Knock sensor could be going dingy, pull it off and see if it still shoots you an early rev limiter Im thinking when you get the brick wall at 4500 sorted out, it will help with the idle being slightly unstable, and would address the early limiter first and foremost. I think it is still partially the guy that did your swaps fault, but at the same time, He did get the car to start and drive, Efi glitches with these cars are not uncommon.

Use the "lag" as a means to launch quicker. Coming from an NA four barrel carb SBC background (the only way I will do NA again is with CARBS), I had a very hard time learning how to drive with boost. I have learned to drop the hammer at 3k on the street and just power out hard. Remember, 7.4-1 cr engines are not going to be as responsive at a 10-1 stroker NA engine. Also, just about any of the newer turbos out there will spool faster than the stock t3, as new technology is capable of making bigger turbos spool quicker, and take a lot longer periods of sustained high boost as well. i really think once you get the system nailed, you will be happier than a clam with what you have there. First I said" 10psi is enough for me" then I said "12psi is good" then I said "15psi is nice" Now im bored of all three and Im topped out on fuel!!! Watch out, these guys are right, boost is addictive. I have to complete my turbo setup to get it ready to go and bump up the fuel system, so I can try 18psi, then once I get the hang of the fuel system 15psi, and ball bearing T4 action..HELL YEAH!!

I use a method similar to Lockjaw,when I run the DRs I rev it up to 3500-800 and rev it up between those two points to make a pound of two of boost at the line. I drop the clutch hard at the second to last light, and hit full boost right out the hole, I do spin the tires once or twice, but so far it has led to my best 60 time, 1.88 and a .526 reaction time. I run a 30 year old stock suspension, stock front sway bar and no rear sway bar, and use the squat to my advantage-this is why I drop clutch on second to last light-car does this right when I dump it: Squat Bite Chirt Boost If I were to leave any later I would get very bad RT If I leave sooner I Redlight With street tires, I do the same thing, but I have to slip the clutch and end up with a good amount of spin, and worse 60 and RT times, best doing this on street tires was 2.221 on the 60 and .672 RT, both of which is still good enough to destroy the car in the next lane 8 out of 10 times, 2 other times I got dusted by a AWDT Eclipse/Talon, and a very boosted FC3ds, but I still eliminated the FC in the bracket challenge.

Hey, Yes, the ecu does fire the injectors, control ignition, and gee, thats about it. What is the cranking amps? Under 9v and the ecu wont fire the car on. Just suggestions, hard to pinpoint exactly over the Internet, hopefully a charged battery and you could be on your way to BOOST.

Thanks Davy, I was actually hoping that they were local. I think I will go with Hooker Headers to coat mine down here in SSF My friend got his Mopar long tubes done up for little more than 100, two days downtime. I may do the intake as well, dang that stuff looks so good!!!

Davy, where did you get the manifold coated at? I got a manifold i need coated.

I always thought that when the CHTS goes bad, car bearly wants to run, and when it does, runs so rich that black smoke shoots out the tailpipe like a smokescreen. TPS could be bad, but you also said power was good. If you need one, I have 26 of them, last time I checked. Hope you get the show back on the road, we are all dying to see your car rip mid 12s, where even some of the really great weekend warriors on this site havent been on the t3-and definitely not with stock efi. And in two months-Ill be ready to join you.

yes, black car. not sure which spoiler i have, i bought it used. its a urethane one with holes, which i think is ok, but i may switch to fiberglass and no holes, i dont know, just preference speaking. its a 75 280z as well! take a closer look at the grill and see whats missing...

look in photos 75-80 or so, photos are there, i found them on someone elses site! these are from z by the bay show here in bay area, which makes me feel good since ive found at least three sites with photos of me car and it was parked in the back parking lot!!!!1! http://www.imagestation.com/member/join_signin_prompt.html?album_id=4289506701&bnak=1&rf=album&ru=%2Falbum%2F%3Fid%3D4289506701

a used old 4 spd costs almost as much as a used t5, if not more in some cases. they will take more power than a t5 will, but with people cruising the freeway at an average speed of 80mph these days, the t5 is a good choice for a manual transmisson.

im using a 240z bumper, not sure on the year rear one is 240z bumper as well, with an overider i dont think i like too much. front is pretty shiny. i will probably be looking for a clean rear bumper, dark colored cars really love that chrome!!! next month, i will have sets available, i have 32 interested parties, i really gotta get them out!

early to mid september, they will be done. main thing is getting enough time to work on them, fronts are almost done, makes a 280 like a foot shorter or something like that. rears look like i can knock out a prototype in a day or so, have a rusty rear bumper ill be using to line it up, but i have to get time to drop the tank and get those struts out!