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Congratulations! You wouldnt have any photos would you? Haltec itself seems fairly doable to me, except for a CAS, Ive never been one to like messing with Crank Angle Sensor. I am very interested in seeing some photos, and maybe a small writeup of how you are controlling ignition events? Im am looking at Haltec right now, since it is laptop programmable and fairly inexpensive for having a feature like that. Anyways thanx, and have fun with that!

reaction research makes some nice vents..

They do look a little on the thin side, and having two of them is weaker than just one long strap, as they give a little bit due to being seperated in the middle, in your case, they give a lot. I think 3mm is good enough,will the nuts on top of the diff work on them, kinda thick. and use a big washer on the xmember. Hey your'e talking in metric! Thats funny, My ride is full metric and I still talk SAE! Glad to hear your "Import" motor is living up to its promises. Now go kick some butt!

Hey Jersey. Your power is still good right? Car drivable? Im in awe as to why your car is running funny, sorry to say. I can think of absolutely nothing after reading your posts here and on zcar.com. If I could check it out in person, might be different issue. Im thinking about the 370cc swap though- Ive have just never been a big fan of playing with the AFM, I have a couple spares I might tinker with though. I like running 43.5 psi because the car is little faster to respond when I run it like this. If I ran 370cc I would run a little lower fuel pressure, maybe 34-35 or so, have to see how lean of an idle I could get with the AFM tweaking alone before playing with the fp, or vice versa. Im stumped

Oh no, I do have a boost reference as well. Oh heck no I wouldnt run a fpr without a boost reference, that crazy. I like the response at 43.5psi a lot more.

Solid mount is not good for drag racing, its good for autox ers though. If you do solid mount with that much hp and lbs, you will do more than break straps, you have the power to break Xmembers, trannymounts, and much more things using a non flexible mount. I would change it to exactly how Scottie gnz made his reinforcements when he ran r200, or You could fab a "L" mount out of angle iron that you can make bolt or weld to the stock diff mount, that has small amount of clearance to the bottom of the crossmember, where the low part of the L is. The clearance allows the mount to have a little play, but it will hold the mount from shearing under high hp use. Great numbers, BTW.

I got one up on you Scotty in terms of tonights street race updates. Not going to name any names, dont want to get any members upset. Involves a Turbo75, and a certain JTR California Exempt model car with 5.7 liter and 250-300weight advantage. Good race though, I always lose to the N20 guys. Man your pumping some major boost if youre beating a N20 5.0 that hard. That turbo must spool up pretty dang fast with the stock turbine, thats a good combo with that .70ar. When does Haltec come into play??

Mounting ecu solidly is good idea. If it flails around excessively, wire connections and pins can bend. This causing bad running and premature failure. My ecu runs great, ecu used to be on floor, now moved to driver side kick panel. No running problems not grounding the CECU, but thats just me.

I guess I run rich at idle, I run 43.5 psi at ALL times, didnt think it would matter too much. All I really care about is my mpg and my Boost power. I do get a rock solid 22hg doing so with 850rpm. Very strange issue Jersey, very strange. Im out of ideas, sorry bro.

It is amazing what a turbo charger can do, Im still in complete awe of some of the newer kills, like a 350z for one!!! First race in the car was was takin down a 5.0, This is where I began to think there was something going with this turbo swap stuff. Funny huh, Two years ago you would catch me in the v8 section laughing at this turbo stuff, Now I am a believer.... Oh boy.

theres no fuel tank neccessary for the swap 75turbo here, and stock tank works great. I drive mine almost empty on the way to get gas, runs fine, but usually drive slow to get gas.

Yeah, first thing when I pulled over was to check my car out, then I looked and saw a quarter, some dimes, some more quarters, grabbed all the silver money I could see buddy back on top please

So you have all that suspension and stuff hooked up already? If so, thats pretty dang cool. Sounds pretty hardcore. How about getting the car on the road for now, adjusting all the bugs that come from a total suspension teardown, and get ready for the next step. Also, maybe a set of zg flares? Then we could check you out on the 17s! I wouldnt rush to do a turbo swap just yet, get some road time and learn the harness and all. Taking time on the turbo swap will get you really far ahead of the game, as will troubleshooting all the work you have done thus far.

L20et, ive heard of those. If it is like the L28et in terms of stock efi, the timing wont effect boost unless you are having trouble reaching high rpm as well. I really dont think it is the timing. It is not uncommon for the WGA on these cars to be faulty, some older zxt cars dont make much boost at all because it sticks open, also, are you running an aftermarket or stock guage? Maybe some holes in the weld? The stock guage sucks, It will tell you that you are making 7psi if you rev it at idle. I always pull the pov off the car once im ready to make boost changes, Is it possible that it is leaking boost pressure at higher gears due a leak that occurs at high load situations?? Im not sure temp has anything to do with, but I also dont boost that hard when its over 85 degrees or so outside, Im chicken I guess. Does it run good cruising?

I wish the 300zxtt engine wasnt so dang hard to mount into an early car with the custom headers and junk like that, my z32 is rocking the free world, It may stay in the family too, My dad really likes it!

does the car drive now?

That San Jose ae86, front photo, wont sell his rims seperate from the car! He has a set of 14x8 watanabes too! I dont know if I can fit either on the car, even with a zg they are -40 offset!!!!! Will a zg even clear -40 offset??? I thought at first from photos they would but when I think about -40, thats a lot of negative offset!!! I dont know the offset of the rims Im looking at are for sure, I will have to measure them, they look hot though!!! That 240sx has some super hot wheels, I dont even know what those were.

boost going up a psi or so is common in the higher gears. freeways speeds and a quick stomp is putting a lot of load on the turbo, turbos like load. listen to your motor when it does that, most of the time its fine, but sometimes

My importer just picked up a batch of JDM rims. He owes me a little bit so Im working on a deal for these. they are 15x8.5 all the way around xr-4. Tires on them are kinda old 225/50/15 all the way around, with plenty of wear on all of them, definitely from a drifter. Wheels have 0 or negative offset, Im probably dreaming I wont have to flare them with the stretch look- oh poo The photos give some indication of what the overall look of the rim is, but its not about the middle, its all about the dish!!! I guess flares are in order, I dont think my car would drive right with profiles these? http://www.buckaloose.com/front.jpg http://www.buckaloose.com/rear.jpg

it costs to be the boss.

Intercoolers dont hurt.

Not a real relearn feature But the ecu, afm, tps,head temp, 02, knock sensor, and cas have to relearn their relationship to one another and it takes a little bit. Think of this, when a connector is loose or sensor is bad, car runs crappy. ECU will fire the injectors richer and pull timing out, give you a low redline to protect itself, resulting in a crappy running car, in my case this is especialy noticed when I have loose connections at the AFM, Head temp, and ECU, to this date, my only issues intermittantly with my car.. Now you find the problem, correct it, reset the ecu, and take it back out. Idle should feel funny for a while, and your first attempts at WOT throttle will put a brick wall effect a few times. Not to worry. I take the car to the freeway really quick and take it up to 80mph, slowly. It doesnt take a long time, but I have found out the longer you do keep it at a steady speed like this, the more correct it works at all driving and throttle conditions. This is assuming all sensors and connectors are in good working order. Knock sensor has done me more harm then good, its out of the loop now. The longer you can go with a healthy running car and not needing to reset ecu, the better it will, car will finally go and drive really smooth, with WOT resulting at will with no interuptions, 25avg mpg, and be fun as heck to throw mods and boost at. Also remember, everytime you reset the system, the air temp sensor, altitude sensor, cas, and a few other parts of the efi system must talk to each other in order and re-establish their relationship. This is kinda like seeing a good friend of yours after a long time apart, you have to catch up. Also, also things can effect the smooth running of a car, any car. You cant go blaming the efi for all your problems, just like how a lot of people run straight for the carb when their car isnt running right. Troubleshooting in an organized manner and distinguishing the true cause of the problem has to be done before action is taking. You must walk before you can fly, and this is the main reason I will not go to a Standalone before its time, you have problems with stock efi, SDS is going to eat you alive.

I dont like the idea of jumping into a standalone if you havent done one before, Its just me. Its not very hard, and the only issues ive had thus far are from loose connectors, and a crappy 02. Once youve mastered how it works, general principles apply and you will have a much easier time learning how to tune a standalone for max power. I wouldnt go to a standalone if the alternatives were so limited, and the fact that the jwt ends up costing almost as much as a haltec setup, or the difference between the two is insignificant if you plan on doing a lot of upgrades. I dont think the oil cooler is a good idea, but since most people dont spend five minutes in full boost, usually a few seconds, not a life or death thing, but it is a good thing to consider.

Personal experiences. I think all Z's used in competition should have some type of roll bar or cage is needed. All v8 240z cars should address this and reinforce the frame, or tie the frame up with a well installed roll CAGE. I do have great confidence of the strength of the 280z, but it wouldnt hurt them either. If you autox,roadrace, or drag race often you should have one. I like JohnC and his points about safety, I can really appreciate and relate what he said about this. This is from street driving my old 72v8z HARD. 350ft lbs at 2800-6200rpm, heavy duty clutch, traction, ultra stiff suspension, and driving mannerisms that put stresses on the car similar to road racing, constant WFO applications, and plenty of sickly hard launches. I still do get out of hand sometimes, but I am NOTHING like I was with a v8 s30. I personally have seen how much flex can hurt the early z cars. Ive ripped frame rails off the floor Cracked both a pillar and the c pillar paint Tore the spot welds off where the TC rods meet the unit frame Turned my floorboards into ramps Doors wouldnt close unless I slammed them with the door angled up, sometimes two or three times I had a roll bar, and by the time I was done, It somehow shifted over a very minimal, but visable to me amount. I had an external linkage transmission, and it linkage ended up getting so bound up in the trans tunnel I had to hammer the tunnel just to drive the car. Now I did repair most of the damage, welding back the tc rod mounting points, hammered the floors down and welding the frame rails back down. I cut out part of the tunned and welded in a piece of cheap steel that made the neccessary clearance, realigned the doors. But it was never the same feeling again. On the turbo car, I dont drive nearly as rough as I did with the v8, plus I have a stronger frame with a lot less lowend. Another plus to the 280z that I didnt add to the previous thread, is that to make a 77-78 (not sure about 75-6) you only need to add maybe a foot of so on each side of where the rails stop to the rear unit frame, to imitate a full frame car. Im not trying to bring this up like I hate 240z's or anything, its just a fact that the advantage in weight comes with a penalty in chassis strength that really shows it ugly face when you add 5.7+ liters of fury that comes on really low to it, or in my case 5.4 liters, or drive it hard and modify the suspension + GRIP. Gotta keep these things on the road and track, right?

Hey Rebel, you have my buddies old car, is the shifter still in the tranny tunnel or really near it? He owned it before the guy you bought it from had it. He lives in Sac now, youll probably run into him soon, or he will run into you. Rover techs dont like the 215 too much. All I hear from them is early head gasket failure and that it leaks alot. Im not saying that its not a nice little engine, but if the techs dont like em, It does say something. There used to be a few european guys with 215 engine swaps, with supra trannies behind them, I dont know where they went though. The 327 is pretty nice, I dig them out of nostalgias sake. I had one in a Z before, with a four speed manual, Powershifting at 6400 in a Z with a lot of hp and even more tq is fun as heck!! Took 100 nitro plate shot pretty good too. Factory 2 bolt v8 engines dont like spinning 6000 for long periods of time, shoot-some 4 bolts dont like that kinda Rpm. They rev slightly faster than a 350, but yes, more cubes, more horse If you are going to do a turbo or supercharger setup on any of these engines, weight should be the least of your concerns, You will have to re-engineer a lot of things with your ride, especially with it being a 70. Like Heavy Z was offering, go get a ride from him, and see if you dont need a nice SBC in your life.