fl327

drag radials are DOT approved you know!!! i know what you mean about driving the car exactly like on the street as track, maybe thats why i went to the strip my first time in this car with my laundry, a steel box of tools, a 3 ton jack, and god knows what else!!! the lower gears may be even worse for you though, once you spin em its hard to get back on track, and once you get back, you may bog as well....

I drove a stock z in the hills of SF for years, no problems, just had to use the ebrake a little bit sometimes. I dont knwo 0-60mph I do know that stock z 1/4 time is like 16.8 and ive seen em at the track bust 17.1 or so. 250hp from an NA is pretty expensive, but very very fun.

pistol grip! or the ever so popular EIGHT BALL MUNCIE TYPE, oh boy

maybe a nice 235/70/15 would help

90%of r&d on my 240z bumper on 280z is done, just have to see about mass production. I almost have my front bumper fitting tighter than a 70 on my 75, having some alignment issues, nothing major though. rear bumper brackets will have to wait until september, but i did some mockup testing of the rear brackets protos i have up so far, and they are gonna be NICE...

there was a v8 guy running 3.08 r200, i would think that was a nismo part. I know another v8 guy that had a 3.15 r200 lsd, in the primadonna scarab z. They are NLA and very hard to find. Drag Radials best bet is the 3.36, also pretty hard to find, it only comes in a 79 280zx 2+2 with a four speed, or maybe it was an auto, i dont think they had four speed in zx years.

Man, I had blast. Had fun hanging out and seeing a lot of cool Z cars. Im happy Dale (BayareaZt) got rid of that hideous wing. Afshin, great to meet you, very nice ride. Had fun with the exhibitionist BOV shots, got a sunburn on my neck and a sore throat from smoking too much and talking too much 5#17. Icice9-just do it partner, HIN and incredible street cred is just a swap away! Saw a lot of good folks havent seen in a while, and saw my first set of zg flares up close and personal, and that rubber strip vw stuff, came off looking good JUMBO!!!! I need at least two purr, man I like those a lot now. Got to check out the newest from Mike D, with plenty of autometer and brakes, not to mention tons of grunt. Time for a nappy nap, Holla.

thats good price i think, a foot can make 3 or 4 couplers.

I run an HKS ssqv bov on my ride, and I love it, it has two valves in it, a small and a big one, on light shifts it makes a girly whistle noise, and on wot shifts it makes this gnarly WHOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOSH. It does not open at idle at all, and uses a pull type valve mechanism, which makes sure it doesnt vent at idle, and it opens and shuts the valve so fast the ecu bearly has time to blink. Its nice, and I highly recommend this BOV. I ran recirculated for a while, and notice no performance difference with the recirculating type vs. open vent. In about a month, I plan to add one final noise to my car and some very nice go fast: The infamous unmuffled open external wastegate dump

thats my favorite trick in the book, besides the MBC 8) if thats ghetto, why do you we have a rubberband over the diff as a snubber, i think thats ghetto. better solution is that L bracket brace Dave Linfoot makes that bolts to the diff mount and goes under the x member, with a slight gap so it lets the rubber insolate a little bit, but prevents the shear.] I have one, but havent used it yet, its flash rustin pretty good.

2"

ah, hes got the "new" car. I am wondering, cant you just take the car back to the people that did the work and get them to fix it? I am not saying that you cannot do it yourself, but if I paid someone good money to do work for me, I would expect it to be done right. Timing may be a bit too advanced, but seeing that you said the people doing your swap had done this before, I would have thought that they would have set it right. If it is 81-82 efi setup, you should be at 20btdc, if its 83 its 24btdc. Timing is physically set the same way, by loosening two 10mm bolts and turning the distributor and using a timing light to verify timing. If you are too advanced beyond this setting, the computer wont know whats going on, advance is digital in these cars and the ecu likes it 20btdc+-3degrees. If too much off, it will backfire. Are you backfiring through the exhaust or the afm? does the car have an external crank angle sensor? if its 81, stock they have an external CAS and that may need adjustment. Most aftermarket tachometer should get its signal from coil negative, and its power from someplace under the dash. a stock 240z tach wont work easily in this configuraton, it uses this crazy loop to geti its signal. the air filter thing, well, its very hard to get an air filter in a s30 turbo if you retain that rubber afm boot, you will either need to modify the boot or make a 3" mandrel air intake to get an air filter on there, been there. -19 at idle is fine, when you are not in boost you are usually in a vacum state, remember now youre TURBO, some of us drive more by vacum than RPM. If it is stock, you should be pulling 20-21, but 19 sounds good to me. Honestly , I think you should take the car back and have them go through it, even if you can fix it yourself. I think it is their responsibility, having said that they would take on the job, to get the car to run well. I can understand not hooking up the msd box, the tach, and the air filter thing, but I dont think it is right they let you take the car away not running right, when you paid for the install and the driveline. Also, they said that they did the swap before, I think if they've done it before they would have a better understanding of the system. Also, being a shop that would even do this kind of work, I dont think highly of the fact they would let a car that does what you explain it to do out of their hands. I also understand that you really wanted this car done and it could be that they may have rushed it to accomodate you, and missed some steps along the way. If it were me, I would be back at the shop at 8am waiting for the doors to open. I say this because I work at a shop now, and we dont let cars out that run like you just described, and if we get comebackers, we fix that s#1t.

That is one of the universal truths that was imparted to me by a really good race car rear suspension fabricator "When you start going really fast, more of your money starts going into hook, and hooking more than once."

I left the damper in place when i did the swap (stock 280z damper) no hiccups then. I did pick up a hiccup when i pushed down plug gap to 35 and messed with timing a little...hmmm?

Whats up Jersey, Did you per chance check that rubber boot off afm, maybe it has some small cracks in it? Also, maybe one of the fittings is loose and leaks a little air there as well? Bypass hose off the BOV maybe? BOV flange? How is the power? Feeling a little slugish maybe? Do you stall in between hard shifts sometimes? Really sounds like you have an air leak somewhere, especially when you said that it likes to stall coming to a stop. I do not think it is the AFM. Have you tried spraying carb cleaner to see where idle jumps and pinpointing the leak. Also, you may have a leak from the intake manifold, causing you to stall when coming to a stop or idling in place.

t66?? Man, and I thought that my 60-1 T04e .58 was going to be slow to spool, even with the ball bearings. oh boy

ran open dp on a my Lturbo, which is almost 8-1cr ratio, wasnt THAT loud, but the spooling noise is insane, you sound like a supercharged dragster, its kinda raspy, and you hit boost really fast.. an NA motor is quite louder without exhaust. it is quiet for having no exhaust, BUT IT IS NOT QUIET. plus with the dp right in front of you open where it is, it will get stinky in the cabin. drove a N42 turbo with open dp, pretty loud, and the same supercharged dragster noise. it was quite louder than my L28et engine, and noticebly peppier off boost, side note. Randy 77zt was running no muffler for a while, and it wasnt very loud at all, basically sounded like an NA with a glasspack until he got on it, then it sounded pretty dang good- i doubt you would get a ticket running this combo, look at all the hondas with the fart cans out there-you would be quieter than them, with no muffler!!!! I run a 3" mandrel system with a Borla XR1 muffler off a stock dp, and i swear by them, after having nothing but flowmasters and ricer brand mufflers prior, i guess any straight thru muffler design would be good if you go with a muffler at all. I spent the money on a good SS muffler and was paid back with a smooth Euro sounding car that doesnt drone on the freeway, no cackeling, Im not sure how loud the exhaust is really, since I usually have the stereo cranked up and dont have as good of an ear for it as I used to.

240z turbo, maybe you should talk to Hoover, his p90 flows a good amount more than 300cfm. His car is making over 400rwhp with a t3 based turbo and 14psi, pump gas, just sick.

i thought the regular six speed tt box was a getrag unit? sucks about the six speed being a little long, me being me i would have to have it and would rig something up to use it. yes i read the article blkmgk- do you have any idea why the tt in jspec mode make less power than the aspec? thats cool the only tt 2jz swap ive seen, that one on ebay a while back, had a custom manifold i guess it was neccessary. the fastest street cars ive ever seen are tt supras with a big single turbo, i mean like a bullet type ridiculous fast, which is nuts since the car is pretty big for an import. yup-with the options available with the piggyback systems and what not, if i were to attempt a swap like this i would use the factory harness and run the aem, its outrageous the rwhp figures im seeing from these engines. alas, if this venture im getting into right now works out, a toyota engine wouldnt be right, since the newest fad is the Nissan engines, ill be "stuck" with the RB series, oh poo

i use whatever is on sale for 5.00 or less, have a very mild climate, doesnt ever get to freezing around here, so i use a 25/75 coolant ratio to water, and for some reason or another, i end up flushing out the coolant about three times a year, so far, no crud! also found car runs better with the least amount of antifreeze possible, i only use it to avoid corrosion and scale.

Im sure you could make the six speed fit, its a getrag unit, its almost invincible, and worth the mods to make it work. ive heard a vicious rumor from my importer that the jdm 2jz makes less hp than the american version, but the engine is still a work of art and would still rock pretty hard in a z. my buddy dynoed one with 130k on it, sucker made 300hp with stock everything, and a dirty air box!!!! no joke im tellin ya, no joke. in a z it would get 27mpg or something stupid like that, and purr like a kitten at idle, giving nobody any clue as to whats coming for them. its right on par with an rb26 in terms of hp stock, but to me has an advantage over the rb in that it was offered domestically, but hands down, popping the hood of a 30 year old car and seeing an engine that you cant even legally have in the US and being Nissan is a plus, but the added practicality of the 2jz is another factor to ponder within itself. oh yikes, forgot about the swap easiness or lack of. if you use a standalone, firing the engine shouldnt be that bad, mounting the engine shouldnt be that bad either since the turbos are on the passenger side, i do like the idea of using the stock harness and then using one of those aem units to run bigger injectors and be able to program the sucker, 582hp on pump is just sick!!! from ANY motor. RB i suspect is a little easier to wire up, if it resembles anything like the sr20det swap, ill rock that sucker.

i wouldnt turn up the boost for a while, and get used to driving a turbo car first. when i first got car started and drove around, i didnt realize that you had to really make sure the inlet to turbo and tb from j pipe (applies to ic piping as well) had to be on there GOOD, and didnt realize i was driving around with massive vacum leaks, i got all distressed and shook up that i wasnt making any kind of power but my turbo was whining and screaming . i ran the fuel pump directly off the battery to a switch and was wondering why the power would die out after 4500rpm. i spent three hours wondering why my car wouldnt start once, then i read that the ecu wont kick on the car if it has less than 9v cranking power, in that three hours i checked every single connection in the harness, swapped batteries, and did the dance of joy!!! didnt realize the advance was digital controlled, and ended up troubleshooting all my sensors when all i had to do was set diz to 24btdc(83zxt, all others 20btdc) and be done with it, this took me out of the game for a week! i spent a whole day trying to figure out the tps settings, when it was not the tps fault in the first place!!!!! if your car flutters or misses on WOT, disconnect and reconnect the ecu pins before you touch anything else (this is pretty common with 20 year old connectors !!!! once you get the boost going, carry a screwdriver and a 5/16 ratchet driver with you for the couplers, youll thank me in the end. got sideways out of a parking lot once, my head temp sensor fell off somewhow and i drove the car for three blocks with so much black smoke i couldnt see behind me, and called a tow truck thinking i blew the motor, and when he came i saw the plug loose, plugged it back in, and drove away (i happy he was cool and was just as happy as i was that i could get the car moving again) with a good flowing exhaust expect the boost minimum to be around 7psi, which should be fine if you run good gas, or on bad gas if you dont get on the boost. i wouldnt up the boost for a while if this is your first turbo car. at 10psi intercooled all the stock fuel system components should be fine untouched, but different cars react differently to turning up the boost. ecu ignition curve is very conservative and 10psi intercooled is pretty easy to do reliably, in my case, im not sure because once again, different cars like different things, and dont think different things. 10psi is fun, but it does get old, this boost thing is a freakin disease. ive been turning up the boost 1 psi a week and tuning around it for a while, highest ive seen yet is 15psi and its been fine, but not as fast as increasing boost from 7-12psi, i know it has to be that im out of the efficiency range of the stock turbo, and i leave it at 12psi for daily driving. 12psi is starting to feel really slow to me too...... turbo timers-i dont like em. im one of those guys who cant stand to leave his car with the engine running, when i had my turbo timer hooked up i would stand there until my car shut off anyway, defeating the purpose of the timer. if i have been driving very hard i leave the car on for a minute or two, if i am going somewhere the last block or two before i am about to park the car, i keep the revs down to 2k or so, and coast with foot on clutch as much as possible, and thats usually enough to shut the car down. i can tell by your posts maybe a turbo timer isnt for you either?? anyways good luck and i hope you have fun with your turbo car, im having a complete ball with my car as it is right now, the mpg and the performance from a small investment has paid itself off and then some, wait until you do your first turbo burnout with atmosphere venting blow off valve, its heaven!!!

hey, I was just over at freshalloy.com, and saw that twinturbo240z posted about his intakes, first reply was some nitwit who was quick to say it wasnt a turbo manifold, adn the second one was a moderators saying something to the effect of "ill let it go since no one posts here, but i am inclined to delete this thread due to it being commercial" i mean the moderators here are communists, but at least free enterprise is one aspect of capitalism that isnt taken from us, just freedom of speech. 8)

i had a small vibration over 75, it turned out to be the tires, 195/65/15 inch tires on a 6" rim done like 80mph cruising. i went to 205/60 and it went away. i would check the steering rack bushings, you can see if they are gone, they start to spread and you can see them protruding out the sides of where they slip over the rack. steering coupler is a good one to upgrade too, i went straight to abs plastic, its a little rougher on bumps, but it takes all the slop out of the steering. you could check the wheel bearings, probably a good thing to replace them and grease em up well. i rebuilt the front end of my suspension with urethane everywhere, and it rides good, with worn out springs and probably dusted out kyb shocks on my 280z, and it rides well, cruising speed is 80mph constantly.

http://www.clutchcityonline.com/spec/nissan.htm 319.00 for a clutch rated at 515lbs with the 240mm flywheel, man thats what im talking about!!! and free shipping!! just followed a link from ebay, when the companies post a million and one products like that i usually try to see if i can get them cheaper from the website. im pretty sure i wont make 500lb feet, but with the turbo im using it is a definite possibility. anyone use these clutches, im pretty sure its a good product and the price definitely works for me!!! ever since i ran my car in the 1/4 the first time, about three months ago, i knew it wouldnt hold up to me for long, well i took it back to the track with an intercooler and more boost, i did manage good times, but they got worse with every run, with lower shift points and it got so bad to the point at the 1000ft mark i got off the gas entirely. i street raced it a few more times after that, and now it wont take any kind of wot load without crying.