fl327

my buddies dad used to work at planet Saab, and has done some really funny things to them and has owned a bunch of them. the trannies are pretty weak in those cars and you will notice it pretty fast, when you get one to run 17psi and brake stand it!!!! he does swear by them as reliable cars, if you drive them nicely. ive driven a few of them and they do sit comfy though.

since you work at a dealership, i bet you can get a good deal on an r302 block, 4 bolt main alloy 302 teamed up with gt40 heads and the E cam, youll dust fools with that setup and i bet it will handle something fierce, since the motor would weigh very little, and the dist in the front you could shove that thing very far back and probably pick up weight in the rear from the swap!

i love those 240sx cars man, im working on two right now, and will be picking up more in the next coming months, 5 s30 cars, 4 years, its time to play with something new, but something familiar. want a ka24, in a month ill let you take your pick

that is an awesome time, especially with that 60 footer. hope i get up there witcha!!!

ive used seat belts for the last 3 L motors, works like a charm.

man i have a lot of stories about the Duke of Earl and Fake-O i have used them in the past to paint cars i wanted to sell that would sell for a lot mroe with paint, i had a crx and a civic painted. I would not use them for a car i wanted to keep around, imagine looking at all those imperfections everyday, that would suck!!!! ive seen them paint over dirt a few times, and have watched paint fall off with the first wash. ive seen them paint straight over lights and overspray across an entire engine bay, from the radiator to the distributor (chevy in the back) ive seen them lay down drips that go from the top of the quarter all the way to the wheel well, and then caught a fingerprint or two from the spray guy trying to stop the run with his hands!!!! you really cant blame them, what do you expect for a 200.00 paint job. its not THAT bad i guess, at least it would be one color, right?

teflon coated tranny internals? oh cmon now. what you mean smog?

im with you, i like to match tb and compressor outlet for my piping.

i will try to actually get some photos underhood of my car, i dont have any that are close to being current. but i do think you will notice the difference if you changed that rubber boot out to pipe, something minor, like being just that much quicker you know? you gotta love the junkyard, i swear by this, before i get down and start to unbolt the hard stuff in the import section, i will pop hatches and scope the ground very hard before, and sometimes you get some good stuff, one time i went to go grab an r200 rear suspension setup, and it was right there on the ground next to me, poor guys stripped the last driveshaft bolt and left it there!

Two jobs and working on the car at night, reminds me of myself when i used to have a v8z!!!! I used to work nights as a Valet at a gambling house, and opening shift at a coffee shop. On the weekends, i would sleep very very little, and the car would still need work to be done, and I remember falling asleep in the car in front of my second job smelling like gasoline and looking like hell at the same time. I was working 30 hours at the coffee shop, and 16 hours in two days at the gambling place, as well as working several events a week. Good thing I worked at a coffee shop man, or i would have never made it through that summer.... Be careful working on your car like that though, its very dangerous.

i would go with a painless efi harness, then chip the ecu if you are going for big hp.

you know a mercedes 6 looks very close to a L motor, except that the mercedes ones ive seen are x flow headed.

i dont know about the diff part, but i think the s2000 would make a great track setup, lightweight high reving. its really on and off though, with no feeling of torque until 7500 rpm. ive been to several track events and the s2000s ive seen dont do very well at them though, in a 240z it would be a different story maybe. wish you could carb it easily, it would be a bad ass setup thats for sure. for a car thats rated at 14.5 in the 1/4 mile they are pretty dang slow to me, ive now got two s2000 drag kills under my belt with the L28et, and i dont think i even have 240hp yet, i do know i have more than 200ft lbs though-and its all on from 2200-6000rpm and my car weights about 27-2800lbs, its fun. it would be a very unique swap, and if its what you want to do, go for it.

im not into using that boot, the stock zx air boot adds 3 45 degree bends and robs air flow due to its bellows type form, and the dsm looks like it adds two 45 degree bends. they will work and hold air well though, thats what they are designed to do. i made an 3" intake off the turbo that consists of one sweeping 30 degree bend to the afm (the sole reason a bend was even needed!) then from the afm a straight 3" pipe to a short 45 through the radiator support in front of the intercooler. the throttle response difference was immediately noticeable, more so with the j pipe. watch Jersey do this and run 11s man, if my car would hit a low 13 on the J-pipe, i would have quit a long time ago

Im sure you will be able to hear the triples sing, especially when you are forcing boost through them, it should be pretty crazy. may be a little muffled because it doesnt recieve direct air flow like an NA, but im sure it will make a great noise all its own. not enough people take on the carbed turbo setups, since yes the efi swap is getting really popular, but the wangan midnite cars came in three or more different turbo setups, dual su dual turbos, the l28et style setup, and the six throttle turbo intercooled, theres room for it all. next car? if my current plans come through i will be working with jdm engines a lot more, primarily the sr20 but not limited to it, and would need a car to reflect it, plus i really those Japanese turbo motors, im just at a time and place in my life that i want to work with one as a personal car....yet list of prospects Silvia/elcamino looking drift cars with the hatch chopped off and a roll cage in its place, but with a gtr or the sileighty front clip and rear panels, setup for drag racing though....im not a drifter or an autox kind of guy. hicas delete 300zxtt with a rb26dett -finally, a 300zx that could whoop supra @ss. early 260z with the rb26dett-hey its a 2.6 right? probably wont do it, ive had too many s30s and want to do something new. i would still keep the 280z an turbo L motor car though, hes been true through and through. i really do like the idea of making one of those jspec Silvia trucks you see in the drift videos though, you just dont see stuff like that out here.

Hey i know what you mean, efi is cool, but there is something so bad ass and old school about a carbed turbo setup, especially with the triples, and a plenum which would let you run a intercooler and a bov, thats just nuts. I think you could just tap the plenum for a vacum reference for the bov and the wga or external, or a vacum line from the compressor side of the turbo to the wga for a signal, but i know that some of the good electronic boost controllers need a a signal from the manifold, air in front of the plenum, and the piping off the compressor side of the turbo, its really nothing since you have tig power.. or you could grab a signal off any ONE of the runners, since if you get off the gas, it would get the signal from any of the runners and not need the signal from all six at the same time since the linkage or cable would open and close all six at the same time anyway.. i wish i could tig, it would help me out ALOT. anyways good luck and hope i make sense.

really nice numbers sleeprz, i hope to get the same or hopefully more once i swap turbos and address fuel somehow, the hp is great, but taht torque number is serious!!!! anyways you give you me something to look forward to thats for sure, im looking to get 350rwhp and im sure this turbo will support it, not sure how much i will have to boost to do it, once i get my parts together and move into my new house the quest for hp is on!!!!

Dale- I suggest before you start doing anything, clean off your TPS injector ecu afm head temp sensor connectors, clean them with either electrical contact cleaner or brake cleaner, then drive it around and see if it still flutters at high RPM. i dont think its the plugs. may be fuel related, i love the 10ga relay trick, brought my car to life. also check the timing, but i dont think that would be an issue too much, just thinking out loud i guess. Maybe next time you go, Ill be there

turbo fpr is 36psi at idle, goes 1:1 on boost i think NA is like 19psi at idle, dont know if it can reference boost.

i believe if cranking voltage is less than 9v, the ecu wont fire the car up.

i may have to go with a standalone, thats for sure, ive added up: msd 6al box with boost retard electric boost control aic i could go haltec for the price of installing and buying all three. i am a pretty picky shopper, but i know the haltec stuff is good though. im astounded by that fjo though.

hmmmm. are you running a points conversion kit on your car? i would check that for power when cranking, i never really trusted those points delete kits, ive had one go out on me and then had to swap in points on a long trip and it kinda sucked. i would check the wiring off that as well, does your ignition box ground to its mounting point or use a lead, i would check those as well. also, what kind of fuel pump are you using, stock mechanical and electric combo or just electric, im pretty sure its not your problem but hey had to throw it out there. check the ignition switch for power as well, it could be going out intermittently from contacts corroding from age, turn key switch to on and check with a dummy light on the coil when cranking to see if the light comes on and off, every time you turn key switch on and off, this is a common z problem. if it is the problem you can either go and find a new ignition switch used or new somehwere, or run a switch to it for the time being to send power to the coil. also, you can jump the coil directly off the battery, if it starts, i would start blaming the switch, if not, look into ignition module, also the tried and true check for spark with a screwdriver when you crank doesnt hurt either. the way you initially posted leads me to believe it would be the ignition switch, the 15 min of cranking the car, and then it mysteriously fires right up with the plugs not fouling-that takes quite a few of the possibilities away. hope this helps.

1200? Im happy i can make stuff like that happen for a lot less too. well, with overhead and bay area prices its not that bad when i think about it, getting stuff like that done to your ride is a luxury. I really dig how the fenderwell side of the frame is addressed, i never thought of doing it like that. the kit looks good i think, just like wider factory frame rail. stuff like that is MANDATORY on a v8 240z, dont ask me how i know

currently shopping around and reading up on standalones, and the fjo setup completely amazes me, with all that military technology and stuff built in, with a GPS option and modem add on that you can send fuel and timing maps to your pit team, or to your buddies tuning shop ??? wondering if anyone had any experience and could throw down some feedback. also looking at haltec and playing with the download programs to see if it might be for me as well. was looking at sds, that option is out since i cant use my laptop with it.

stock regulator can go a long ways, if its working right.