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Way back when I found myself at a light with a show car looking Mitsubishi Eclipse, he had a megaphone or some type of system in his car that played a laughter track from Batman, I knew it because he could turn the thing on and off with a button and dang that thing was loud!!! I always wondered that in other parts of the world, If the talking lady available in the z and zx series came in different languages depending the language spoken in the country that it was sold? I would love to have a Jspec talking lady or maybe a German one, that would be nice.

Ive driven a stock 350tpi with 305 harness and inj in a Iroc. Same thing as far as I could feel. Torque comes at really low Rpm, then stops pulling at like 4k, geez maybe earlier?? Ive driven 350 tpi before, a roller cam year even, man Same feeling. Its not the engine, its the efi setup-in terms of Cfm it equals and functions like a 2 barrell. I like these engines for swaps into a Z, the donor IROC or firebirds with tpi always have an OD trans, can run 87 all day long, fuel injection, and OK power in the smaller chassis. I also dig the salt and pepper sound of a TPI engine.

John, I was in the 75, but of course! The z32 is parked in my new garage while my Father and I finish moving stuff in and cleaning the place, I have some work to do to it before I even drive it hard or often, nothing serious, just dont want to blow my investment. Im upset that dont know the history of these great cars. The z32 is a blast though, its a very quick car that doesnt feel or sound as fast as it goes. I may take this car to CMI after I get it running 100%. I might as well, R230 VLSD, twin turbos quad cammed, and a five speed with Ttops, it is very very nice. Once I get done with this stuff, should be another couple weeks, Im gonna do some cheap tricks to this car and run it at the track!

I take mine to 90 mph every day. Fastest was 125 from los angeles to San Francisco for an hour straight. It was white knuckle riding all the way. Got out of it to go to get gas and a six pack of Mountain Dew, then promptly did 90-100mph all the way back. It was fun, but a little dangerous, some lady was half asleep at the wheel in a burgundy Volvo doing 50mph and I had to use the shoulder to pass, no way I could have braked in time. Turbos love that top end.

I think the guy wouldve had a better chance if he would have launched the car harder, he just revved the heck out of it at the light, and launched a little bit better than idle, and still spun a little bit. I gave him as hard of a launch as I can do at street tires (whopping almost bald 215/60/15HR with that squatraction action) and it worked!!!!!

Yes, But mine is FASTER!(wipers are faster)

The part about the change is real, I heard a whole buttload of small metal hit the ground, had no idea what they were-until I got out of the car. I wanted to see what the noise was, and I would not have heard it if I wasnt slowing down for the yellow. If I would have grabbed the pennies, I would be on that old Robin Leach show. IF he didnt know then, hopefully he knows now... Would I have still went for it with him knowing what I was in??

One Z33-dusted and disgusted!!!!! Man, and I thought this 14-15psi thing was getting old! Well, here goes. Im driving now with my girl, when an a older guy and a girl were driving in a 350z and we meet up at a light, they had been behind me for a while and were listening to my spool and BOV. We stop at a light, and the lady rolls her window down and says : My boyfriend wants to know what kind of car that is!!!! I get upset a bit and blurt out: "Your daddy (gangster slang/curse)!!!" I promptly get the finger and start hearing the 3.5 roaring back at me. You know what happens next right? My girl starts rushing for the seatbelt and yells "KILL THOSE (gangster slang/expletive) (what a woman, I think Im in love!!) I quickly check the intersection, its empty. I drop the clutch at 3200 or so and just cook that sucker HARD out of the hole, second gear and I get about a car and a half, third and continue to pull on it( not quite of dramatic of a pull then the lower gears, but hey ill take it)!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!. I slow down for the yellow at the next light, and he runs thru the red, and I hear all kinds of small metal hit the ground, I look over and there is tons of change about five feet away from me scattered. Those suckers tried to throw all kinds of change at me!!! I quickly pulled over and took all the silver change, about 7 dollars worth of quarters, nickels and dimes. I bought gas with it and dropped my girl back to Chinatown, and she promptly asked me "So, what kind of car is that anyways, Porsche right?" YUP

I would be into it, SOHC or DOHC. Im thinking that a SOHC setup would be easier to retain a stock timing chain. Just make the valves real big. Im hoping this goes through, and that it has choice of big NA or turbo grind cam shaft(s). The more parts that could be interchanged with a side flow head would just be even sweeter. If this isnt possible, I would also be into having modern style hydraulic lifters so I dont to adjust them, and maybe off another popular car so replacements wouldnt be the be all end all of the head. xflow by itself is about 15% more power, a high flowing head means 20% and up power increase, now add BOOST and see what happens.... Now you just have to make it happen.

You can add steel and weld up the factory spot welds, under high power(high torque), these spot welds can fall apart. You could reinforce the frame rails with box steel add triangles to the tc rod part of the frame rail and that will add some rigity, also weld the floor frame rails with a long bead all the way down. If you want to go nuts, you can cut it out and replace them with stronger steel. The spot weld reinforcement can do alot. Structural foam in the hollow parts of the frame and more welding can do this more, and add less weight to the frame. Theres more to this im sure, but this is all I can think of off the top of my head.

Dan, you guys are lucky, our Junkyards are starting to get kinda pricy. Pick n Pull is getting sued for some illegal activity though. One of the guys once said to me: "Do you have a camera" me: "No, only guns and narcotics" him: "Cool, just as long as no cameras" I saw a guy try to use a sawzall to pull a diff before, tore up four blades and got about a quarter inch through it!

Hey that does look nice, especially with the air filter visable thru the scoop. I would go with a K&N filter top that has the air filter on the top of the lid, I forgot what it was called, that way you can stick with the same air cleaner, but get more air flow through the top of the filter as well-added bonus to that approach is that it also draws more air from the sides as well. What part of Sacramento are you from? I had friends from "Sacra" from the North reigon, and they would make me go cruising downtown, I forgot the name of the strip, but it was pretty fun sometimes, very boring most of the time. Sunday we would go to Miller Park and hang out with people from the Garden Block (VGLs) and the Heights. It was pretty funny, being the weirdo from Sacramento hanging out with all these STC, AB, and other people with whom I stick out like a sore thumb. Do you have the "Who put Sac on the Map Vol. 1" CD? I have a minute long verse in the "King of All Cream" Remix- Im serious.

wash the engine down, and start it back up again and watch the area oil leaks from, sounds like valve cover gasket. you may have a weak connection to starter solenoid somewhere. bad ground ? ? smoke em up.

the r200 mustache bar is very nice piece, ive only broken one! they go for about 25.00 in our local jy. People on z car websites usually charge a little more, they either pull them from parts cars or from the junkyard and throw a finders fee on top, which I think is only right. Look around, it will cheaper and easier than making one, its hard to make something as strong as this thing cheap. Just keep your eyes open, you will be able to find one, or two, or 10!

Yep, you are totally right, in my case as well. Turbo headers are kinda hard to find. Mine is JDM. Ready for that old t4 action YEAH

Bought my whole donor car for 160.00, and drove it away with the tires smoking. I sold the t5 trans for 300.00 sold the t tops for 100 sold the badges for 5.00 sold various other parts and came out with 500.00 I spent most of on parts to rebuild the engine, but I do have many a friend in the industry and I did have a little money left over after the machining of the bottom end and all the parts needed for a rebuild. Very little money, but I did have some left over. did a full rebuild bottom end and had the head resurfaced and new valve seals done by a friend of mine for dinner at the HOUSE OF PRIME RIB, 3 COVASIER drinks each( I drink whatever hard liquor the rap guys rap about in their videos, that Busta Rhymes song was out at the time), and "stuff " You dont have to "build up" a 2.8 turbo motor to make awesome power, stock with an intercooler, slightly bumped up boost, big exhaust, and a clutch that will take the power, youre just as fast, if not faster, than your average 3.1 NA stroker motor, which is good on the average for 180-200rwhp if no extra special head work and exotic parts in the bottom end are not used and compression ratio is streetable with a carb setup. Go up on the turbo, management, and address the fuel needs of your hp goals in order to keep a nice a/f ratio, the sky is the limit!!!! There is no way a 300hp NA will cost more than 300hp turbo engine setup, it may be close, but that NA engine will be way too radical for pump gas, in most cases. If you have a way to keep the a/f/r in check and you have a healthy engine, and a fuel management system or mods that can be tuned on a dyno to achieve a good WOT ratio, I have heard of 400hp pump gas junkyard engines, and over 500hp on race gas. My short tem goal for now is to get 280hp with the stock turbo with a nice management sytem, so I can learn how to tune it. I paid tons of cash for this laptop, I want to able to make power with it too! I will going to a full T04e 60-1 ball bearing (which ive had for some time, and it sits next to me whenever Im on the computer) a nice turbo header and a ported N42 intake. I will looking at 350hp REAL QUICK 14.5 psi OR LESS since I will be getting a lot more flow with the ported intake, header, and 3.5 inch 45 degree downpipe Vband downpipe, and possibly go to a 4 inch exhaust system from a J spec 240sx that is made by JIC ( take a look at jspec exhaust systems for sr20det powered 240sx cars guys, they make almost an identiclal 2 45 bend to the mufflers, and I have seen 4.5 systems for them, some aftermarket, some are scavenged from diesel trucks, hint hint). This would be on California pump gas. 400hp would not be out of the question, I do take baby steps in everything I do to my own car, so that could be a year or so away. Yes, it stops being so cheap at levels like Im planning, but it DOESNT STOP FROM GETTING REAL FAST! NAs can make a whole of power too, its been proven, but gains are much harder to get on an NA, IN GENERAL, cubes are worth a whole lot more in a NA if you want to make big big NA power, thats where a v8 rocks..

I feel like its more the turbo running out of steam up top that makes me shift at 6k. I am running that t3 ragged right now, 13-15psi daily, depending how im feeling that day. Turbo isnt making much more power up top because: A: Dont have the fuel and power nosedives after 5.5rpm, I just shift at 6 still to get a better response from the next gear. B: Only running stock ignition(.32 gap) and the ecu controlled advance, not setup good for high rpm. I have a really strong engine, rebuilt by myself and I average 140 psi across the board with good pistons, shaved head, retarded cam timing, and a few other secrets internally, nearly 8-1 cr. Ive spun the car up to 6700 before, it will do it fine but I dont have the fuel, the turbo, or the timing to do that pretty often, I spun it that at 7psi non-intercooled, felt good, but didnt do very much, like 2500-6k is doing for me now. I would replace all the injectors if you could, they are all probably the same age. Hopefully that ends the issues and you get to mods!!

90 is pretty high, but hey, you got the torque down on them so that takes away that aspect of your problem right? I suspect that the new tires are exageratting suspension issues that were already there.

If you want a race car, a 240z is the best power to weight in the z series, at the major sacrifice of some comfort vs. a 280z or zx (the most comfortable of the round headlight years) A 280z has a much beefier chassis (77-78 in particular, beefier doors), stock bigger rear end ( in five speed models and 2+2), overdrive transmission (some did come with the smaller rear end and a four speed trans, except 78s, always good to check to see what rear it has unless you plan to swap it out anyway), AC(another weight contributing factor if you think of the AC radiator type deal, the pump (AC cars generally have both front and rear sway bars), the lines, and the the part by the heater core that actually blows the air), tons more wiring, thicker subframe and thicker guage metal all the way throughout the chassis, slightly bigger radiator adds too. The entire frame is thicker guage of steel, its nice. Crash protection bars in the doors, the bumpers and bumper struts constitute at least 100lbs of that weight difference alone. For a race car, the 240z will be superior due to its light weight, For a street car, the 280z will give you a marginally slower car (assuming you left everything intact) but a superior ride quality, you can put more hp through the chassis due to the stronger rear end and thicker, stronger chassis, and assuming the AC still works, you are really rockin! Also the struts are larger on a 280z, spring and shock are bulkier as well, and also have a stiffer rate compared to a 240z to make up for the weight difference, and every mount such as the trans xmember, differential x member, mustache bar, is added cow to the beefier construction of the 280z Wanna see me get even pickier? -The window wipers of the 280z move about twice as fast as a 240z, and the headlight switch has a button which turns them for 4 wipes or so, dont even have to play with the switch. -The turn signals are brighter in the rear and tremendously more noticible and a little bit faster too. -The running lights are brighter -The slighty taller stance of the car lets you run a taller tire -They have more chrome (Ilike chrome) -77-78 use different, better quality connector in the chassis harness that have a way better chance of not being infected with corrosion. - A majorly worn out suspension 280z does hit the nice squat, once a 240z gets a major squat without flaring it, you can bottomout the tires to the chassis, been there, done it, 205/60/14 on a worn out 240z. If you are dropping a nice 300-??? V8 into the car, the only other car that will have a chance in the z series to get you is a 240z equipped with the same or slightly less HP, it is not a common occurance. Same with the turbo swaps, and about any other powertrain. Fuel injection swaps are easier, and its one less thing to worry about, since they come with stock EFI. 280z also rides much better with a worn out stock suspension, I have a turbo swap in mine and I just found out the other day I average 23-26mpg but I drive on the freeway at a minimum of 85mph with a top speed of 125 for sustained periods ( my speedo doesnt work, I had to have a friend of mine pace me to 3500rpm, my cars sweet spot in the cruising range) (I held 125 for an hour straight before I chickened out on the way back from LA, this is white knuckle top speed and at times I wanted to back off, but the savage in me said its TIME TO JAM) To go any faster than I did that one day I would need to refresh the suspension a little more. A 280z rides better than a 240z anytime of the day or night due to a stronger frame. They also have better instrumentation (IMHO) since they have a voltmeter instead of amps, easier to see lettering, big numbers on the tach ( that hooks up easier to modified or swapped ignitions) a little bit better seats. I daily drive my 280z and have over 20,000 miles on my turbo conversion this year, and I have 4 more months on this year to go! I drive it every dang day about 80 miles a day average. Sure, Im probably sacrificing .3 in the 1/4, ill live with it Heres the kicker for me, a 280z with worn out weatherstripping wont smell leak in exhaust fumes like a 240z, Ive never touched mine and I dont even really have weatherstripping at the hatch, and I cant smell anything in the cabin but fresh fresh air. I have owned almost every z there is besides the 350z, an real early or late 260, or a z31, and all my 240z cars would just stink of exhaust fumes, so much I would get out my car and people would tell I stink like gas. None of the information I have just laid down is a generalization, a rumor, or a comment made because I am 280z biased(even though I love them), Its from experience. I have pulled out all the AC, the front bumper assembly (replaced with 240z chrome cherry bumper) and will pull the rear once i get my new garage. If you change the tailights (and why would I) I would have a car that looks exactly like a 240z from the front (I use an airdam for a 240z to use the 240 turn signals) And the car would look like a early 260z from the rear. I suspect when I am done my car would be closer to 2650 or so, since the weight of the 280z is from a fully loaded model, not a stripped down version. The ride quality of the 280z is my favorite part of owning the car. Want a better power to weight ratio, ADD MORE POWER!!!!!! I did take most of the luxury out of my car, not to save weight but I dont use that kinda stuff anyway, all I need is a radio and im happier than a clam. They just ride so dang SMOOTH A clean 240z with some rust, faded paint, and no options like a 280z goes for more than a 280z that is clean and loaded, there are a lot more 280z cars out there in the market as well. ON to the zx series, I would only go for the 81-83 years, they come with even more options, like power steering, ttops( my favorite things in the world), stock turbo ( the best ones to get since they have the cv axle rear end, the infamous T5 transmission that is very strong, and they are easy to hop up with the stock engine), power steering, windows, all wheel disc, digital dash ( people hate them, but I know how to diagnose and repair them so I am a little biased), the talking lady that tells you when your lights are on when you shut off the car, tells you you are low on fuel, and if you drive with the ebrake on(i diagnose and repair these too unless the voice box itself is completely fried), digital guages, an oil temp switch (not just oil pressure, not sure if non turbos ever got them), they can fit some really wide tires if you get the right offsets, you can run 100 watt H4s without relays (I had a zxt with them and they have been running strong with them for 2 years), and every other luxury thing a 280z has, but just way way more options. They can also ridiculously fast on the freeway with a worn out suspension, which the early years cant do due to their bad high speed aerodynamic design. This is because a zx or zxt was modeled after an early Z with the Gnose front spoiler, take a look at an early year car with a Gnose, then look at the zx, its very obvious. A z with a gnose only begins to compete with a zx in terms of high speed aerodynamics. The chassis (especially the turbo years) can take ridiculous amounts of power, weakness to really getting tons of hp would be the halfshafts of the non turbo year cars. The frame wont need anything until you have around 400-500hp and hook with a stick shift. There is a significant weight penalty, but you can very high on the power. People are doing the turbo swap into early year Zs so much you could find a nice shell for peanuts if you look around. One reason I would go 240z, is due to California smog regulations, or the nostalgia factor of having a 240z, the only one I would like to do up would be a 1970z with a low vin. I live in California, home of the smog dyno.

Oh yeah thats right, SDS. Thats crazy, that explains the 2.1 60fts with the short sidewall tires!

Yes, really big deal, assuming the tps on the rb is variable resistor type, a really really big deal-in terms of power I mean. How did you pull at a dyno and nobody else being able to detect it. 348 with 80 percent throtte is still pretty crazy though. Now I really fear for those tires!

Whenever my car starts idling rough its always been the ECU that needed to reset, I had a plug to it that was kinda loose and giving me erratic performance. Dale-if you can floor it and hit 5400, you can take it to 6

Davy, what do you think the first thing Im gonna do once I change the oil is? I mean, after I do the 100 point checkup, you got it buddy. BOOST....and Import car frangrance, and beat the R230 figure 8 ways. Just dont get any coffee or regurgitation on the windshield and we can still be friends Have photos as soon as I pick up the car, two black Zs with BOOST and more BOOST, yes. Davy and all, youre gonna love this one too. Im negotiating on a 1962 NOVA with a inline six and a PG, only things really wrong with car is that it was primered ready for paint and missing some chrome, but it is pretty straight and drives good enough for the time being. Yes, Im goin nuts, the cars keep coming once you say you are getting a garage, you know Kevin just picked up another clean garage 70 for 1200, and that 260z shell with 58k on the clock thats been garaged for 18 years with a whole of Datsun comp racing parts from the 70s-for almost free???

have you finished your suspension yet? heres the good part about efi on a 280z its already there! just put the fuel hoses to the same place as you already have them no mods to tank, it has baffles right now im using a tranny cooler as an oil cooler, doesnt work too good. Im going up to an RVsized oil cooler For some reason only auto zxt had oil cooler i believe Colder oil mean better lubrication, better lube means (sp) mo(more) BOOST.