Jersey

Ok, so i'm still working on my cousins '77 turbo build. SOMEDAY i'll get back under my hood! We ran my '73ZT against his '77 tonight and we're dead even. I mean DEAD EVEN. Go figure We did about 8 runs starting in 3rd to the top of 4th and the Z's were side by side each time. I really don't think he's getting the full potential out of his T3/T4 because he should be pulling on my T3 so i'm trying to figure out what should be his next upgrade and just looking for some suggestions. Here's what he's running... '77 280 T5 3.54/CV's NPR IC (medium) custom 2.5" DP 3" mandrel exhaust 60mm TB P90A just completely redone 1 new cast piston 1mm metal HG Greddy BOV T3/T4 - 50trimE in a B housing, .63 Stage III clipped, oil/water cooled, ported WG hole MSD fuel pump 3/8" feed and return fuel lines 370cc injectors custom fuel rail electric fan ACT clutch/PP stock '83 ECM stock FPR stock '83 ignition (22deg BTDC) grainger type boost controller running around 17-18psi on the edge of ping Now i'm thinking the most logical direction to go at this point is with an aftermarket ECM but $700-$1000 is hard to drop right now so... The little homemade grainger BC seems to be doing ok but spikes to about 20-21psi before it comes back down and level off at around 18psi. Not liking that too much and i think we're exceeding the little $10 item We pulled the plugs after some high boost runs and the plugs seem just a little white, which i would think running a bit lean on top. We also had to close the gap a little (38) because i think the hybrid was blowing the spark out at higher boost levels. So i'm thinking he needs to do one of three things at this point without dropping a nut on a Haltech Adjustable FPR or MSD 6A BTM or a REAL boost controller I'm just trying to figure out which way he should spend a little money first to wake his 77 up a bit. I know his '77 is a bit heavier than my '73 (and i am a beetter driver ) but i think that 50trim should more than make up for the weight difference... and i hate to be side by side with him with my little T3 pushing 18psi If i'm missing something that i should be considering upgrading, please post it. Thanks in advance.

There's a '73 240 in the junkyard out there in Ventura CA? Way to fool 'em Z-TARD. Looks clean.

If it were me, and it was a while back in the position you're in, i'd spend the $104 +shipping like i mentioned in this post to you back in december... http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&p=217385&highlight=#217385 I hear my T3 spool easily with this setup but if it's still not loud enough for you after this, then i'd think about going with cutouts for the strip, if that's what you're considering them for. If you run them open on the street, sooner or later the cops will ticket you for the decible level. I seriously dont think it'll make any difference performance-wise by dumping the exhaust right after the DP versus running a full 3" system with a wide open muffler, unless you were running a HUGE turbo and a bunch of boost. I do think it'll make a difference in your health from sucking in all the fumes from dumping right next to your window Just my opinion 525.

Joe, you ready to ditch this whole computer/IS/overtime/salary-no overtime pay "career" and open a Z specialty shop here in Jersey??? I am

I'll make sure Nick orders the replacement HG on Monday. Thanks again. When it comes in, we'll hook up again and see what we can do about the beer situation I hope to stop by "Ed's" house in the next few days to see what he's got hiding in his garage. 575hp '71 240? Hmmm... Sounds verrry interesting

That's what i think happened to his, 525. He had just had his tank "professionally" cleaned and lined and i think it may have flaked off a bit and partially clogged the filter. I think the only way to be safe is to have an onboard fuel pressure gauge to always monitor all components concerning fuel feed. That's why i just picked one up We started the rebuild tonight around 9pm and his Z was back on the road by midnight - new piston, rings, 1mm metal HG (thanks Joe - ragz - if you read this... came through big for us tonight with the HG) Seems to be running great. Just going to take it easy for a bit to let those rings settle in.

I need that switch under the port bulkhead of my Z... for only 10-12 second bursts though

It's just friday Yo

The crankcase vent goes from the side of the block to the PVC valve which is screwed into the intake. I think you're thinking of the valve cover vent hose which T's into the boot between the AFM and turbo Yo.

How would you know the full potential of your build unless you start breaking stuff? Whatever blows was probably weak in the first place. Replace it with something stronger and try that 20psi run again

Hey Jesse. If you're going to recirculate the BOV (Blow Off Valve), you should pipe it in between the AFM and turbo. The reason for your blue smoke is most likely because when it "blows off", it's putting pressure back into the crankcase. I wouldn't eliminate the line from the crankcase to the intake. It burns the nasty vapors coming out of your bottom end and it doesn't hurt performance leaving it hooked up. I you want to try and leave the BOV open to atmosphere but loose the loping, try crushing it in a vise a little bit to create more spring pressure. That should hold the valve closed at idle.

rubbin's racing

It's from my cousins '78 280ZT we just finished building about 3 weeks ago. So far he's ripped the R200 mount in half and now blew a hole through the side of the piston! lol. I think it was from the partially clogged fuel filter that made him run a bit lean on the top end of 15-16psi of boost.

I like mine open to atmosphere as well 327 Must be my middle age thing (36 ) lol. I don't get the bog between shifts as you mention 525 so, doesn't seem to be affecting me performance-wise and i can tell if she's leaking. Oh yeah, and my 4 yr old son thinks it's "cool dad" 8)

Hey Garrett. Thanks for the reply. What trans/rear combo are you running and what RPM's did you cross the trap at when you made the 110mph run? When i ran 12.88 @ 105mph, i pulled a horrible 1.96 60ft on my street tires - 215/50/15's. Had to really slide the clutch out of the hole to get any kind of grip. You can watch the video of it here- http://members.bellatlantic.net/~vze29q5g/12.88.avi If you listen closely enough, you can almost smell the clutch burning With the 215/50/15's, T5 and 3.54's, i was basically out of the HP range of the T3 at about 6k rpm on that run. So, i decided to buy a bigger set of tires, about 25" tall, and try them. Before i went back, i also installed the NPR IC and the 370cc injectors and tried again. The best i could pull was a 13.3 because i couldn't hook one bit and vowed to never go back unless i had some rubber on the back that i can plant! lol. I did get the MPH up to 110 and the 25" tire height seemed to put me right in the meat of the HP so, that's what i'm up against. Do you get any slippage with the BFG DR's or can you really get off the clutch pretty quickly? Decisions, decisions... Thanks again.

Hey all. So, i've got to make a decision quick so i can this thing back to the track I'm looking for a tire that'll hook but not wear out after a few times at the track like i hear slicks do and, they wont be driven on the street, for the strip only. I have an extra set of 14x7 dishes that i'm going to use which limits me a bit and i'm thinking around a 25-26" tall tire would pull me through the traps nice in 4th with my 3.54's & T5. I've heard some negetive feedback about the BFG's DR's so i think i'll be steering away from them. I do like Nitto's 555r's but they don't come in the size i can use. The only other option i'm thinking are Hoosier's Quick Time Pro 26x9.50-14's. Brad, if you're out there, i think i remember seeing a pic of your Z running these at the track. If so, whattya think? Any thoughts, experience or suggestions of another tire would be appreciated.

LOL.. funny stuff Moby. Reminds me of someone i know...

An idiot would've gave up. Glad to hear you found out your problem! Thanks for replying what it was. Just ran through a lean/ping problem on my cousins 280ZT we just built that also has the MSD-2225... turned out to be a partially clogged fuel filter. It wouldn't allow more than about 42psi to the fuel rail. Go figure, earlier today, i won a bid on ebay on an Autometer electric fuel pressure gauge like you mentioned

Okedoke. Evil, are you running the J-pipe or intercooled? BOV installed?

Figure this out Evil? If i were to start tracing your problem, i'd go in the direction of LJ's advice. Not that eletrical couldn't or isn't the problem, 525 knows allllll about that department but it just seems as positive manifold pressure is created, it's just leaking out somewhere. What's attached to your intake manifold? Anything that could have taken a dump? Like the POS POV as LJ mentioned? Keep us posted... like to know what you found.

Looks awesome Gabe! I hope it does as well as it did for me, for you. Get that sucker in, crank the boost up a bit more and go kick some butt Keep us posted on your progress.

I left the new port open to atmosphere so maybe if i connect this to the IC piping, it'll hold. If i get a chance, i'll put the other one that i modded and didn't crush back on and try it. I'll let you know if it works.

Just a note - the drill/tap/plug mod on the DSM BOV doesn't fix the leaking at idle/low rpm. At least it didn't on the two i did. Crushing it a little fixed it.

How about your exhaust 525? Any restriction? Could be the cause of running a bit hotter on the freeway. My TPS and the TPS on the 280 turbo i just built affects the timing exactly like yours is acting - retards a bit when the TPS goes open around 900rpm and then advances as it should when the R's are brought higher. I get the slight hiccup as well in both cars as you do but don't worry about it. Just the way it works i quess. With it disconnected, i think the only affect it would have on your car is at idle, she'll be rich because normally at idle when the TPS is suppose to be closed, it would be pulsing the injectors at a slower rate. If your temp gauge is reading near 15 degrees hotter, i'd put $ on it that its the sender. If i had an extra, i'd send it. Just so happens the 280's sensor was off as well and i used the only spare i had. Should be able to find one for next to nothing from someone here. Probably be a good time to put this sensor in when you do the thermostat, if you do feel like changing it.