at-jefft

you can take #6 off it too is smog related. and fill the holes with bolts. See example below

I believe 3 is a smog related air pump. It looks like there are no electrical connections to it right now, so its probably not doing much anyways, but I would wait for another member to confirm this or search for it yourself.

The heat shield should have 3 or 4 bolts(10mm I think) that need to be removed and then it should come off. Yes, "unplug" it from the carb and plug it to the balance tube. ALSO, it is very helpful to inclued the year of you Z when asking for help. Do you have a factory service manual?

1. is the distributor Vacuum advance and not only do you not want to remove it(google it's function and you will see why) but it is also hooked up incorrectly. Connect the rubber vacuum hose somewhere on the balance tube. I recently did this and notice quicker revs and more power. Bonus: You can remove the heat shield without taking the carbs off BUT it will cause the carbs to heat up more and that will hurt performance. There are a number of threads that will tell you what you can remove that is smog related so please search.

Cracking/failing is only one thing you have to worry about. Filler absorbs moisture and i don't need to tell you what moisture can do to our cars.

My 260Z ( The hood was white in the ad but when I saw it the PO had painted it black for some odd reason) Sorry if the pics are giant.

No, we are talking about the system that requires the seat belt to be latched in order to start the car.

ya mine was taken care of when I got the car. I know the connections under the seat have been disconnected. I would try that and if that doesn't work, my guess is that you could just wire the connection closed.

If you haven't already, I would not use armour all. It will give you fish eyes in your paint if you plan on painting it soon. If you have already used it then you can buy some fish eye reducer additive for the paint. Just an FYI

If the shaking happens at a certain speed, like if as soon as you hit a certain mph it starts to shake then it is quite possibly an alignment issue or wheels out of balance. If it has a whirring sound associated with it then in my experience it it usually something out of balance which could mean something is not bolted snugly, I had that happen when a lug nut was loose also when the half shaft bolts werent torqued correctly. I'm no expert by any means but that should at least give you a start.

I'm a big fan of "period correct" music hahaha (70's 80's) Shakin' -Eddie Money Ain't Talking bout Love -Van Halen Flirtin' with Disaster -Molly Hatchet Jet Airliner -Steve Miller Band Twilight Zone -Golden Earing Crossroads -Cream ...So many more

Thanks for posting that. Looks much better than rust, and you seemed to have decent penetration up until the top right.

Lug nut or two? multimeter gas can/ coolant can JB Weld! Assorted rubber hoses and hose clamps

Well, This thread inspired me to get a fire extinguisher in my Z. Fingers crossed I won't have to use it!

differential mounts?

agreed, my high school auto body class used harbor fright guns and they worked better than expected. Expect to buff and polish afterward but the final results were quite good.

You don't necessarily need different guns for primer, base and clear, what you need it different sized air caps. Hvlp is the industry standard and reduces wasted material.

haha, I enjoyed that. The comments are stupid as always. "thats illegal!" lol

couldn't you just make your own gasket with some gasket material?

Yes, if the needle(s) have worn the jet then you need new jets as well. but you should be able to try new needles first. You can get the needles MSA offers or you can get some Brittish SM Needles which are a tad richer in the higher rpms. BTW your vac advance is hooked up incorrectly. If you look down the port you have it connected to now the hole is about the size of a pin. Connect it to the balance tube. I was guilty of this until recenlty, I switched it to the balance tube and noticed much faster revs.

Figured out the issue, Finally! My ghetto fuel rail was not level. So it was starving one carb. I zip tied it in a somewhat level position and its running great after tuning my SU's.

There is no way you could turn in that. I'm still Totally and completely amazed though. Aren't forces enacted at right angles from normal? (you guys know what I'm trying to say)

I have done all those things. I have fuel. chamber vents arent plugged. I switched the the carbs front/back again, and the only rear cylinders fired after the switch. So It has to be the carb. I rebuilt it with the ZT kit (once and then did it again) The cylinders still won't fire. I am out of things to do here. I have replaced (twice) nearly everything in the bad carb and it still will not work, I'm extremely frusterated.

I squeezed the short fuel line from the bowl to the front carb, and the engine died, and when I squeeze the rear one, nothing changes. not even rpms

I adjusted the float all the way up( really high fuel level) Still didn't fire. But when I put my hand over the throat it revved up really fast. What does this mean? Also While adjusting the float normally I noticed after I ran the engine then stopped it to pull the floats, The front bowl had quite a bit of fuel in it and the Rear always had very little.