cygnusx1

Sailplanes have air-brakes. They pop out of the wing tops to slow the plane down and to kill lift off the wing so that it sinks to the runway better. This is a scale model showing the "spoilers" or "air-brakes".

Aww man that sucks. Hope you can get it fixed quickly. Is there car insurance in Texas or is it all settled with rifles and arm wrestling?

My Dell mobo went bad and that was a $2300 machine! What a rip. They even wanted me to pay for it after a year and a half. I wrote to Dell. I spammed every @dell.com email address I could find on the web with my case and point. Eventually they sent me a free replacement....after I had bought a used upgraded board already. The new Dell Mobo is for sale. I've had lots of machines wih ECS, Abit, ASUS, Gigabyte...mobo's. The only failure was the Dell board which was built by...CRS?. Can't remember Sh#t. forgot the name on it. I've also had GEIL Ram fail, and an Enermax power supply go soft.

That is really cool. SOmeday I would like to get that to work on MSII but I have a TON of research to do before I try it. My 02 Subaru pulls timing and it won't reset until a lot of driving goes by, or I reset the ECU with a complex procedure. It's a pain. It's been that way since day one. Good luck figuring out how to get it back on the original timing map after a knock event. Keep us in the loop.

It is pretty cool looking. Good luck and run a good antivirus program. FYI: I like to use Avira free and AVG free. Both of them are free (duh) and work great. You get an occasional nag to buy the full version but they work fine as freeware. Kudos to them for making a great free product that updates regularly. I also recommend running Spybot SD. All three combined will keep you running clean for years.

Nice, but the e-machine I linked you too did all that for about $450 and you had a store to bring it back too if it gave you trouble.

Yes, build from the ground up. Sell your old machine or give it to someone less fortunate. The last thing you need is a headache from incompatible parts and a bunch of new parts that need to be returned. As a matter of fact, these days, I recommend going to BestBuy or CC and buying a "cheapo" built system and uninstall all there bells and whistles, or just wipe the system and put in a bare OS. You can get a nice pre-built system for around $400 or $500 with a crappy video card in it. Make sure it's got PCI-E video card interface and capability for lots of RAM and at least a 500watt power system. Then go to newegg and get the best video card you can afford and if you have to, add some RAM. Then you are done, and you have support/warranty for the PC should you need it. http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=8398735&type=product&id=1179877268129 All you need for this system is a good video card (maybe a power supply) and it will rock you on the cheap. I bought an e-machine for my parents and it was a great machine. Simple, effective and reliable. $375+$85 for your video card from Newegg....great system for a great price. BTW nice avatar

Same here. 20 Years on one slave. It did fail once and I threw in a rebuild kit piston. It's been fine for the past five years on the rebuild kit. :Knocks on wood:

There has got to be a better shell for you to start with. In my eyes, that is scrap metal. You got more b**s than me to look at that and say I am going to start my project here. Best of luck.

Any manual will tell you what to do with those. Basically, yes, you can just add fluid to the "full" line. But you need to make sure your brakes are not worn out, and you need to look for system leaks if the levels are low. Those fluids should also be periodically flushed and bled properly, for safety and proper performance. Search for "brake and clutch fluid bleeding or flushing" on the web.

She's pretty cute but someone should tell her it's "COAXIAL" not "COAXLE".

Someone ought to make urethane front fenders and hood for a Z. Look at that front spoiler. It's still perfect!

There are no quality gaurantees, adopted, or born into the family. I say go for it. How? I have no idea. My wife and I have said that if we have a second child, it will be adopted. It's a real big IF though. As far as children being abandoned...you would need to skin me alive and whittle the meat of my bones bit by bit while I fought you with every ounce of life I had left, before I let go of my boy. I just plain don't understand it. My cousin is adopted and he is probably the nicest relative in both of our entire families.

Holy crap that sucks. Is it already turning into The Road Warrior! Hope you either get it back or get compensated by the insurance co. Good Luck.

SexxyZ

Thanks for sending out the search party!

I've driven both pretty hard and have to say the STI has more adrenaline factor. The M3 just feels anemic to me. Too clean, too polished, too quiet... Still an awesome car though. Best of luck.

When buying, I tend to look for people that have been on the board for a while. They may be more likely to be trusted. If I am selling something, and the buyer seems concerned, I will gladly offer my Ebay feedback and my Paypal certification for whatever that's worth. Anyone want to buy the Brooklyn Bridge? Generally, use your common sense. Your gut feeling is usually right.

I took this shot in 2006. It's powered by a 150HP Hispano-Suiza engine.

So true....half the fun of owning Webers is the test drive every time you turn a screw 1/4 turn.

This is kind of off topic and I have mentioned it before but I run Hamachi (free VPN) on all my PC's. I can simply do remote desktop through Windows/Hamachi and actually tune my Z over the internet...if I had to. It's cool to be able to tune Megatune on the laptop in my garage from my office at work on my lunch break.

Set them up according to the last link. Also, idling them a bit on the rich side, I found, helped to make the transition off-idle to be smoother. (on my Alfa Romeo engine). I suspect that the following might be your issue: "This is all based on the important fact that your speed screws (idle speed) are not open more than ½ turn if they are then that is also an indication that you have a lean Idle circuit. You are cheating by opening the throttle plates and exposing additional progression holes in the transition." Basically, you DO NOT WANT fuel coming from the progression holes at idle. A lot of times, people tend to open the throttle plates too far to make the engine idle and they expose the progression holes. Having done this, the progression holes are not there when you need them while opening the throttle slowly. Good luck and remember to have fun. Webers are fun once you really learn how they work. They sound great and breath really well. It takes some patience but you will become an expert with some quality time and a screwdriver. I used to synch them with a length of fuel line. Stick it in the venturi and listen to the suction sound. Make all of them sound the same. Another trick was to pull the plug wires off, one by one, and observe the idle speed change. It should be equal for each plug.

Vista is appropriately named because that's about all it is; a pretty view. You know I think you could pick up your own laptop for $50 or less that is capable of running Megasquirt. I have an old beater Dell laptop that lives in my toolbox. It is dedicated to Z tuning and it has a wireless card PCMCIA for access to the net and a serial port. It's so nice running a simple old laptop with nothing on it. It seems faster than the new ones with all their bells and whistles even though it's only a 400mhz CPU. I run XP on it. I think Vista is too "heavy" for an old laptop but Megatune should be fine with it.

There is a really informative book for tuning Webers. I pretty much memorized it back in the day when I ran Webers. I have since forgotten the details but there are separate jets for slow throttle opening and fast throttle opening. Slow opening uses progression holes in the bore that are exposed to vacuum as the butterfly opens. Those holes are fed through a separate jet in the bowl ( I think) Foggy memory. Fast throttle opening accel enrichment is performed with a spring plunger and a piston that squirts fuel into the bores under spring force when the throttle plates snap open quickly. There are a ton of variables with jets, emulsion tubes, accel springs.... First make sure all the proper jets are installed. Then set all your idle mixture screws the same number of turns in or out. Make sure your throttle plates are all very closely synchronized and are at the proper angle in the bores. (not exposing progression holes to vacuum at idle). 9 out of 10 times, old or dried out carbs need to be cleaned and flushed. Soak them in a carb cleaner and blow air through ALL the ports. Make sure the floats are not sunk, and the float valves operate, and that the accel plunger is not bound up. Oh...and don't rule out a vacuum leak in the gaskets or manifold. Buy the Weber tuning book! It also has suggested jet sizes for the L motors. http://www.webernorthamerica.com/pdffiles/45DCOE152.pdf http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/Table_of_contents.htm The golden egg: http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/dcoe_adjustment_layout_typical_i.htm Dave

You should spend at least a solid 10-20 hours reading MS manuals and instructions before you touch the unit. The more you know, the easier it will be and the more fun you will have. You don't need to memorize it, but just knowing what all the variables mean and where to go read about them is worth a million clams. You should go read, starting now.