cygnusx1

Congrats! I decided to go get my unpowered plane license starting this year if I can swing it. I want to fly Sailplanes. It's much less expensive and I think it would be tons of fun. Tell me this doesn't look fun! About $2000 to a solo license. This guy is nuts!

I think it would work and I would love to see it done!

I found this over at GRM. Not sure if you are a HBZ member but I thought I would share your Z pics here. http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/board/viewtopic.php?pid=424435#p424435

Every detail matters. Some more than others. As an ME you get to look at and understand every one!

I dont track often but I pretend to on the backroads sometimes. I was surprised to find that I needed almost seven full turns of rear +bias during rainy driving. I thought it would have been the opposite. As it turned out, with the wet road, the front locked up sooner so there was less frontwards weight transfer and the rears could handle much more of the braking work. Things that make me go Hmmmm. I use the AZC Wilwoods all around with the knob style prop valve in the center console. I can't remember if the AZC wilwoods are monoblock or not but they feel very rigid and precise.

No matter how good their engineers are, Stoptech cannot claim that their brakes are perfectly balanced without using an adjustable proportioning valve. That's just plain silly. They might be perfectly balanced on one day but not the next. Conditions change. STOPTECH QUOTE: ""Do I need a proportioning valve with a StopTech Big Brake Kit? In a word, no. Because StopTech manufactures calipers with the correct piston diameters for each application, our kits will work with your stock master cylinder and stock pressure limiting valve (often called proportioning valve). There is no need to modify or remove the pressure-limiting valve, and no additional proportioning valve is needed. A StopTech kit will also work with your ABS and traction control systems (improperly designed upgrades can confuse the ABS)"" I suppose with ABS it really matters not.

All I kept thinking about is "Deer crossing". It's really problematic here in NY so it's always on my mind when I am driving.

I found this while surfing the web. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=854848 http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=854805

http://www.swedishbricks.net/700900FAQ/Brake%20Fluid%20Comparison.htm There is no best. Pick the one you can afford that handles the highest temp for your intended use. FWIW: I use ATE Superblue/Yellow because it has a high Temp/Cost ratio. I also like the fact that you alternate between Blue and Yellow to assure complete system flush.

My car does the exact same thing. At part throttle loads, the boost wants to build but there is not enough boost to hold the BOV shut and not enough vacuum to pull it open. It goes into an unstable state that feels like compressor surge. Here are the possible causes and I have thought of a few solutions. Causes 1) BOV too sensitive (I may put some damping grease on the BOV slide) 2) More airflow from the turbo than the engine can use (use a bleed-type boost controller instead of a check ball) Here is an experimental idea to use the boost to keep the BOV shut tighter: Run the vacuum line from the BOV to a "T". One part of the T goes to the compressor housing with a check valve in it. The other part of the T goes to the intake manifold. There is more boost at the compressor than at the intake. Using the compressor for boost source will push the BOV closed tighter. When you let off the gas, the boost will spool down and the line from the intake will apply vacuum and pull the BOV open. The check valve (or retrictor) in the boost line will prevent a vacuum leak. Anyone understand this? I barely do but it might work. Actually, it won't work unless you use a valve to re-direct vacuum flow when the throttle shuts. It's more complicated than it needs to be.

Dinner plate with a Z logo to go with my Datsun coffee mug! You are a genius man! I'll get right on that.

I have made 265RWHP on the P90A with stock injection and bigger turbo. Now with MSII and other goodies I am probably close to 300+ RWHP on the same old P90A. The P90A is limiting because of cam choice limitations. That's about it.

Old thread and old brain can't remember if I already posted here...

Lower the 8.4 number and all of your fuel will reduce. Your injectors are squirting twice to acheive the dose required. They squirt 4.2 units twice = 8.4units per cycle. Reduce the 8.4 to 8.3...8.2...8.1 ....until you get it to idle. You might even want to try increasing if reducing doesn't get you there. Also take a regular timing light and make sure your idle timing is around 15-25 BTDC.

LOL....it hasn't been a Tuned Z for 18 years....it's been an evolving Z and that's too many letters.

Beautiful Sleeper! Yes, more tire will be required.

I have been toying with the idea for 18 years lol. I finally decided on a plate that was available in my area. "TUNED Z"

Referencing the yellow car using rear droop limiters, would not a rear swaybar accomplish some "droop limiting"?

I don't know much about electric power but my RC airplanes are powered by Lithium Polymer (LiPo) batteries that are typically about half the weight of a solid battery for the same power output. Yes, they are expensive, they need special balance chargers, and they have been known to explode. They are VERY light for their power outputs and flow very high currents... The technology is probably too young for passenger vehicle use but the info might spark some ideas. http://www.hobby-lobby.com/flightpower.htm http://www.hobby-lobby.com/lithium-polymer.htm Just an FYI.

Not sure if this helps but... 1) The only time I got error messages was if I didn't match the settings in the "Configurator" with the proper hardware/firmware that was in the MS box and sensors. 2) If it starts and dies, make sure your fuel pump is staying on (common problem). Also, adjust your after start enrichment leaner/richer and the amount of time that the afterstart enrichment stays active. Reduce the warmups to 100% and ASE to about 5-10% and try again. You can also change the main value that effects ALL your mixtures----"ReQ Fuel 8.4" try lowering it or raising it manually until it idles after cranking. That number is like a MAIN MIXTURE KNOB. You can turn it up or down until you are in the ballpark.

The past week and the coming week here in NY has been, and looks to be, the best weather I have seen in a long time. Mid 70's by day, mid 40's by night, clear and crisp. There is about a 25HP difference between day and night driving. The cool night air makes more power. I hope this weather trend continues. I actually got to wash-wax the Z and thrash it around town. I am getting it ready for the Rhinebeck bi-annual car show on May 3rd and the Bear Mountain season opener car cruise on May 7th.

Looks great! Thanks for posting the geometry and specs. Most of the time people leave out this important info when describing their setups. What swaybars are you using? Are you going to make the Convention this year? I am planning on being there for a few days.

There is a company near where I work called "Hytorc" They make advanced nuts and bolts and hydraulic tools for industrial purposes. The stuff is used to bolt high pressure pipe flanges for Chemical, Nuclear, and Oil refineries. Anyhow, he must make a good living. He has several daily drivers that he parks out in front of his building every day. Bugatti Veyron 1200hp edition. Ferarri F50 Ferarri F40 Viper (all decked out like a GT1 car) Some exotic Mercedes Benz Lambo Diablo Every day he has one of those cars rain or shine. I stopped by today to check out the Veyron. It's Red and White like this one: http://www.newlaunches.com/archives/bugatti_veyron_pegaso_edition_with_1200hp_makes_its_more_powerful.php Talk about a nice list of daily drivers!

That is a priceless shot. It's one of those shots that comes along once in a lifetime or so. Kudos to the guy behind the camera and David, the car looks awesome.

Most of my MS-II harness runs past within 8" of my turbo compressor and I have no issues with "hot wires" or melting the loom. If your wires are melting you need to re-route or shield the heat source. I found that having a sheet of foil-backed fiberglass came in handy for making heat shields and wrapping anything that I didn't want too get hot. I spray some Super 77 sticky spray onto the glass matt and wrap it around stuff the needs shielding. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=THE%2D14110&N=700+115&autoview=sku