cygnusx1

That's right. No matter how many kids you make, you only get one father's day per year. NOTE TO ADMINS: Honestly, I'm bad with acronyms.

Well, a day late, but my son took his first steps solo today! Belated Father's day gift

Sniff Sniff....that was touching! Great stuff. Priceless.

Nice! Speedy recovery.

Z32 trans doesn't look too intimidating on my garage floor. I haven't tried to stuff it under the car yet. Any pointers? I plan on doing the swap very soon. How do you like it so far?

At the very least it would shield the wipers. If I remember correctly there is a photo on here of an S30 with such a body panel over the cowl.

I used Eastwood black wrinkle paint on my intercooler plumbing. I'm not sure how hot it gets but it holds up fine under the hood right next to the radiator top. How hot is your application?

Bye Bye, door dings! Hello, run in your stocking!

I work in the innovation group of a large corporation. Stuff like this is what sparks ideas. The answers are rarely there. It's the questions that spark toughts. It's great thinking, somewhat outside the box. Laundromat Carwash. G - Geometry and Function IN - Infinte A - Adaptation Here's an idea. Make the skin subframe flexible in the right areas so that it deforms under aerodynamic forces to "shape itself" to cut into the wind better.

Nice seats! I like the black leather ones myself. You could black out the GXP lettering with some black dye. Great find.

Datsuns, especially, don't EVER add up your receipts! It's almost always cheaper to buy a finished or partially finished project. I think my second statement applies to all cars.

Urethane rear diffuser anyone? Sounds like there could be a market for one. Is that Wisconson Cheese Yellow? Nice I like it. Let us know how it works and looks.

Same here. When R12 hit platinum status, I read so many reports warning NOT to retrofit or mass destruction would occur!!! I figured that my system was dispensible at the time. If it breaks, I take it out and save weight, so I did the conversion as simply and basically as I could. The conversion kit box was about $39 at K-Mart at the time. Lo and behold! It works. No magic, no ghosts, no dragons, no wizards. It just plain has been working for eight years now. I think the R134a molecule is larger than the R12 which makes it tend to leak less. At least that's what I "heard". I had to file and drill the "conversion" fitting for the low pressure charge port but other than that, the boxed conversion kit fit the bill. I'ts not as cold as R12 but it's cold enough that the system cycles on and off properly to maintain cool cabin temps. MOD: I wired a manual switch in the HVAC circuit to turn on the compressor in VENT, DEF, HEAT, BI-LEVEL modes. This allows me to defog the windshield and get FRESH air with A/C if I want to. Make sure you keep the thermo switch in series with the manual compressor switch so the A/C can still cycle. I also wired the e-fan to come on whenever the A/C is on. zcarnut probably describes the right way to do it but, I did it the backyard way and it still works ok. I think the Z compressors are pretty tough. They are definitely stout and heavy compared to modern units.

Get as much old oil out of the system as you can. Change as many o-rings as you can to buna material. Put in a new receiver-dryer. Pull vacuum on the system. Check for leaks. Add R134a and compatible oil. Put in 20% less R134a than specified for R12. Mine works great. It's an all-stock factory '76 AC system. You should have some bubbles in the sight glass. If you don't have bubbles, you put in too much R134a. This is how I did mine and it has been working for about 8 years and about 25K miles with light A/C usage.

How are you watching the coverage? Online? Me need to see! I haven't seen the new Sti debut but I imagine it's going to be a very competitive machine this year.

Looks like it was some great weather this year over in PA. Love that BOXER sound! Why is this not covered on TV IMHO it's the ultimate auto motorsport.

Wouldn't some turbulence help the fuel spread out better in the chamber? Don't mean to answer a question with a question. Sorry.

McMaster-Carr http://www.mcmaster.com Search for Polycarbonate discs, film, or sheet. You can also get a piece of clear and use a layer of window tint to get the right tint.

Don't worry about a little play on the input shaft. As long as the bearings were quiet you will be OK. Change the seals and gasket since you have them. Transmissions are not super tight tolerance devices. They can work with a little play.

Mike, how old was that clutch? The stuff on ebay looks like a good deal but research that brand of clutch. Also, I would have the flywheel checked even though he says it was turned. Peace of mind.

I would pay them and get my car back, but demand a clear explanation from the PD as to why the car was towed. If they can't provide a clear explanation of how your car met their qualification of "towable", I would seek some sort of compensation. You can pay by personal check but write something on the check to the effect that you don't fully agree with the transfer. I think you can write, "Paid under Duress" on the check which may make it easier on you if you ever need to fight to get your money back later. The PD is not always right but you have to respect their decisions anyhow. They certainly should give you an explanation. Non-Op vehicle is a fuzzy line. I think there must be a time limit in that law. Like non-op for 5 days or something like that.

Most people here like the T3/TO4E combo for the street. The stock turbo certainly works better at a lower power range and feels better between 2000 and 3000rpm's. I run a T3/TO4B "SuperV" trim which is close to a TO4E from what I've read. I lost some low end power compared to the stock unit, but the top end more than makes up for it. I run about 14-15psi and power is great from 3300 and up. The best part is that the faster you go, the harder it puts you into the seat. The feeling of being pressed into the seat at 70-80mph and climbing is priceless. One thing I did notice is that my new turbo makes more air than my engine can use from about 3500-4500rpms. The result is turbo surge at part throttle acceleration...damage to the compressor is prevented with the BOV venting like a wild goose. Don't forget to raise your fuel pressure somehow with an FMU under boost or you will begin to go lean somewhere past 12psi. With the stock turbo you should be able to see around 240hp at the wheels with your plans. Raise the fuel pressure to about 65psi at full boost of 14psi and you will see 260-275hp with the stock injection.

Unfortunately, it's the nature of doing business. Have you ever worked in retail or ran a business? This is nothing.

That's a tough call. It could go either way. Also, what are the odds that all the injectors are clogged evenly? Pretty low. Unfortunately, you can't tell if one injector is causing a lean reading or all of them are. Is the regulator maintaining a constant fuel pressure differential under vacuum and load? Disconnect the regulator vacuuum line at idle and the FP gauge should jump up. Blow into the regulator with a bike pump or compressor at 10psi and the fuel pressure should go up by 10psi. A ruptured or sticky diaphram in the fuel pressure regulator will cause you to lean out under boost and run rich under vacuum.

Well, then I would check over the entire FI system with the factory manual and then have the injectors flow tested.